Headlight / Headlamp Replacement DIY Nightmare
Many thanks to the Member that posted the proceedure. I Tackled it today and I got my fill of rolling around on the floor and pulling and pushing in push pins. I have some additional tips that I pulled together.
Caution: The high intensity discharge system produces high voltage and current. In order to reduce the risk of severe shocks and burns, the battery negative cable must be disconnected any time service work is being performed on or around the high intensity discharge system.
The BRUTAL FACTS...you loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, you will Jack up the vehicle , place two Jack stands under the frame rails, you will remove both front wheels, you will remove 10 or so push pins from each Wheelhouse liner and pull it back over the brake rotor.
You will then Remove the radiator Cover push pins, , remove the grill push pins.
You will then take a 10 mm socket, 10 mm stubby indexing wrench and a baby cresent wrench and remove the fore / aft nut at the rear of the heaplamp, then the other three 10 mm fasteners from each side that hold the Fascia Up/Down on Fore / Aft slots.
Front Fascia Retainer (Qty: 6)
Front Fascia Retainer (Qty: 6)
Front Fascia Bolt (Qty: 2)
Once you have done this on both sides you can slide the fascia forward to access the Headlamp.
You will then remove 3 fasteners holding each headlamp in place, you will then finese each headlamp forward. The Ballast will catch on the bumper, you need to up down finese to remove.
Then you will have this mess: Tip you do not have to remove the front bumper fascia to perform this procedure as I did. Just remove enough fasteners and retainers in order to lower one corner of the bumper fascia to access the Headlamp housing.
You will then remove each headlamp connector and take the headlamp assembly to your kitchen table. (NOTE: Be careful when you handle the assemblies. I was extremely careful, but somehow I put a cross car scratch across the lens, dont know how!)
You will then need either a Tamperproof Torx set or a Jewlers screwdriver. I used the screwdriver on this lil bastarb:
Headlamp Bulb Cover Screw (Qty: 3) Remove all three with care. Then you will have your replacement bulbs. I choose not to take chances and replaced them all, and used lamp lube to give me life of the vehicle moisture protection:
Headlamp Bulb Retention Spring (Qty: 2/per) Release the springs in order to access the high intensity discharge (HID) bulb. Pull the bulb rearward and release the electrical connector from the bulb. Pull the headlamp bulb from the headlamp assembly.
Reassembly: Tighten 3 N•m (27 lb in) When all bulbs have been installed, take both Headlamp housings to the vehicle and test them by hooking the connectors to them PRIOR to installing everything.
Once this is completed you will need to put it all back ...UGHHHHH
NOTE: If you have issues with the stud at the rear of the lamp housing, I feel given the assembly line sequence used at the assembly plant that the 10mm nut that holds the lamp assembly to the can is unnecessary. It is only there to hold the lamp housing in place while the vehicle is suspended on a "Clamshell" conveyor and elevated a few feet off the floor and until such time as the vehicle is returned to floor level (Flat track conveyor) on its tires and the operator can run down the 3 fasteners under the hood that secure the lamp housing in place, after the fascia has been installed. In my opinion its an assembly aid only , not needed.
NOTE: Mandatory Sequence on dwg above (Center fastener first, rear second, front fastener third for attaching the lamp housing to the vehicle . Important to maintain up/down and cross car gaps and fits to fender and fascia.
Tighten
10 N•m (89 lb in)
Front Fascia Nut (Qty: 2)
Tighten
10 N•m (89 lb in)
Front Fascia Cover
Enjoy, have fun its a blast!
Many thanks to the Member that posted the proceedure. I Tackled it today and I got my fill of rolling around on the floor and pulling and pushing in push pins. I have some additional tips that I pulled together.
Caution: The high intensity discharge system produces high voltage and current. In order to reduce the risk of severe shocks and burns, the battery negative cable must be disconnected any time service work is being performed on or around the high intensity discharge system.
The BRUTAL FACTS...you loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, you will Jack up the vehicle , place two Jack stands under the frame rails, you will remove both front wheels, you will remove 10 or so push pins from each Wheelhouse liner and pull it back over the brake rotor.
You will then Remove the radiator Cover push pins, , remove the grill push pins.
You will then take a 10 mm socket, 10 mm stubby indexing wrench and a baby cresent wrench and remove the fore / aft nut at the rear of the heaplamp, then the other three 10 mm fasteners from each side that hold the Fascia Up/Down on Fore / Aft slots.
Front Fascia Retainer (Qty: 6)
Front Fascia Retainer (Qty: 6)
Front Fascia Bolt (Qty: 2)
Once you have done this on both sides you can slide the fascia forward to access the Headlamp.
You will then remove 3 fasteners holding each headlamp in place, you will then finese each headlamp forward. The Ballast will catch on the bumper, you need to up down finese to remove.
Then you will have this mess: Tip you do not have to remove the front bumper fascia to perform this procedure as I did. Just remove enough fasteners and retainers in order to lower one corner of the bumper fascia to access the Headlamp housing.
You will then remove each headlamp connector and take the headlamp assembly to your kitchen table. (NOTE: Be careful when you handle the assemblies. I was extremely careful, but somehow I put a cross car scratch across the lens, dont know how!)
You will then need either a Tamperproof Torx set or a Jewlers screwdriver. I used the screwdriver on this lil bastarb:
Headlamp Bulb Cover Screw (Qty: 3) Remove all three with care. Then you will have your replacement bulbs. I choose not to take chances and replaced them all, and used lamp lube to give me life of the vehicle moisture protection:
Headlamp Bulb Retention Spring (Qty: 2/per) Release the springs in order to access the high intensity discharge (HID) bulb. Pull the bulb rearward and release the electrical connector from the bulb. Pull the headlamp bulb from the headlamp assembly.
Reassembly: Tighten 3 N•m (27 lb in) When all bulbs have been installed, take both Headlamp housings to the vehicle and test them by hooking the connectors to them PRIOR to installing everything.
Once this is completed you will need to put it all back ...UGHHHHH
NOTE: If you have issues with the stud at the rear of the lamp housing, I feel given the assembly line sequence used at the assembly plant that the 10mm nut that holds the lamp assembly to the can is unnecessary. It is only there to hold the lamp housing in place while the vehicle is suspended on a "Clamshell" conveyor and elevated a few feet off the floor and until such time as the vehicle is returned to floor level (Flat track conveyor) on its tires and the operator can run down the 3 fasteners under the hood that secure the lamp housing in place, after the fascia has been installed. In my opinion its an assembly aid only , not needed.
NOTE: Mandatory Sequence on dwg above (Center fastener first, rear second, front fastener third for attaching the lamp housing to the vehicle . Important to maintain up/down and cross car gaps and fits to fender and fascia.
Tighten
10 N•m (89 lb in)
Front Fascia Nut (Qty: 2)
Tighten
10 N•m (89 lb in)
Front Fascia Cover
Enjoy, have fun its a blast!