: HID conversion questions. 2011 Luxury



SrxNamja
10-20-12, 12:35 AM
I decided I'm going to do a conversion while getting my oem fogs put in and the dealer agreed to do it without damaging the warranty. I was reading through the DIY and I'm trying to figure out which one out of the 3 would be the best choice regarding the kit.

1, Xenondepot
2. Philipps
3. ddmtuning

All these are very different in price but I'm leaning towards Philips as that is oem. To the owners that have installed them, what did you choose and any issues?

Also on the philips it has a built-in anti flicker so is the code eliminator required still and will these run constantly or just when i have the drls running?

inspectorudy
10-20-12, 11:34 PM
I went with the Phillips and the antiflicker will not help your daytime running lights. The headlights will work but the DRL will not operate properly. I had to add the two diodes to the Phillips kit to make the DRL stay on which basically is the same as the normal low beams. HID lights have to run at full power and the DRL on our cars run at a lower power than normal. The antiflicker helps when the low beams are on to keep the voltage from flickering and causing the low beams to flicker as well. Just remember when you order to tell the company you go with that you want your low powered DRL to operate at the same power as the low beams and that your DRL operate on a lower voltage that will not run the HIDs in the DRL mode.

mrrairai76
10-21-12, 12:06 AM
Personally I would do a true HID retrofit. I think you get the best light output and plus you're not blinding people when driving down the road.

SrxNamja
10-21-12, 10:13 PM
I went with the Phillips and the antiflicker will not help your daytime running lights. The headlights will work but the DRL will not operate properly. I had to add the two diodes to the Phillips kit to make the DRL stay on which basically is the same as the normal low beams. HID lights have to run at full power and the DRL on our cars run at a lower power than normal. The antiflicker helps when the low beams are on to keep the voltage from flickering and causing the low beams to flicker as well. Just remember when you order to tell the company you go with that you want your low powered DRL to operate at the same power as the low beams and that your DRL operate on a lower voltage that will not run the HIDs in the DRL mode.

Thanks for the tip! So are the code eliminators even needed for the phillips kit?


Personally I would do a true HID retrofit. I think you get the best light output and plus you're not blinding people when driving down the road.

its just not feasable cost wise to oem install them as they're going to cost 2k$ + labor after install. I planned on getting either 4300k or 5000k but theres no chance of blinding people as the factory housing is projected and can be used for HID regardless but placed with halogens instead of ballast/wiring + the articulating lens that the premium has.

inspectorudy
10-22-12, 01:08 AM
I am not sure about the code eliminators but with the Phillips kit the low beams work fine as they are shipped. It's the DRL that cause the problem. They must have full voltage to operate as DRL with the HID bulbs. All the diodes do is keep the voltage at full power and basically keep the DRL on all of the time as low beam lights. I like the look in the daytime and at night there is no comparison to the Halogen bulbs. BTW, when I am in my garage the low beams are cut off in the vertical plane just like the old Halogen lights were. The lights form a straight horizontal line across my garage wall with no bleed over. The bottom line is that at night on unmarked outer edge line roads the HIDs are worth every penny. I also agree that going OEM on the HIDs is way too expensive to justify it because the high beams are fine with the Halogens.

bwclemons
10-23-12, 12:55 PM
I would do the xenon depot and add the error code eliminators with the kit. Forget any sort of relay harness. your choice of 4300 or 5000k. Both the Phillips and Xenon Depot kits have good bulbs. Stay away from the DDM Tuning as their bulbs have been failing prematurely. Do your Fogs as well. You do not need any errorcode eliminators with the fog lights.
The halogen headlights on our cars already have the same projectors as the factory HID units but they don't have the movable headlight feature for steering wheel input or the auto leveling neither of which is needed.

SrxNamja
10-26-12, 11:07 PM
I decided to scratch the hid conversion until I feel a little more comfortable with the car being brand new but I'm getting my fogs installed and was wondering the most reliable bulb to give off a white light instead of the yellow on the low beams that comes stock. dont want a bulb to burn out prematurely. Even the tech was starting to be hesitent on the install that we agreed upon and drilling an additional hole in the housing.


I was thinking of the Phillips CrystalVision Ultra Headlight Bulb that gives off a bright white instead of that annoying yellow and not too many complaints that they burn out prematurely.

tmw
11-03-12, 09:53 AM
Thanks for the tip! So are the code eliminators even needed for the phillips kit?



its just not feasable cost wise to oem install them as they're going to cost 2k$ + labor after install. I planned on getting either 4300k or 5000k but theres no chance of blinding people as the factory housing is projected and can be used for HID regardless but placed with halogens instead of ballast/wiring + the articulating lens that the premium has.


You might try contacting the folks at the retrofit source (google it). They were extremely helpful in putting a kit with projector together and locating a new housing for me when I converted my F150. All parts and supplies I spent $400 and it was nearly plug and play. Anyway the also pointed out a few others to me who had done the same thing i was doing so I had pictures and some how tos ahead of time.

Might be worth a call/email to them.

inspectorudy
11-04-12, 01:10 AM
The number of F-150's on the street and the number of SRX's are two different animals. The F-150 is the best selling pickup truck in the nations. I do not believe there are very many SRX HID housings on the market from any source except maybe salvage yards and that would mean an awful lot of wrecks by SRX drivers that did not include front end damage. Not likely.

phunter1
11-04-12, 07:38 PM
I have Phillip Crystal Vision Ultras in both my low beams and high beams. i am happy with them so far. Much better light output than the original bulbs and they are much whiter. My other car has HID's and the headlights are definitely brighter, but I can live with the Crystal Visions. I am going to install them in my fog lights as well, just haven't gotten around to it yet.


Phil

SrxNamja
11-04-12, 08:17 PM
I have Phillip Crystal Vision Ultras in both my low beams and high beams. i am happy with them so far. Much better light output than the original bulbs and they are much whiter. My other car has HID's and the headlights are definitely brighter, but I can live with the Crystal Visions. I am going to install them in my fog lights as well, just haven't gotten around to it yet.


Phil

hopefully they last long as mine are installed and ready to pick up tomorrow at the dealership since I had my fogs factory installed.

barpuhl
11-05-12, 10:11 PM
I boght the DDM Tuning kit and it worked for a week and a half for one of the ballasts to go bad. after five weeks my replacment came and it went bad in 1 hour and 15 min. I warn you not to buy from them. However, the LEDs that I got from them work just fine.

tmw
11-06-12, 12:30 AM
eBay, looks like a bunch of housings up there right now. All eom, but they are there. I would probably go the halogen route and convert those rather than buy the hid version and figure out the wiring for that. Would be a fun project I imagine but not so cheap. 300 for the light kit nd 200+ for the housings.

Just a thought.

SrxNamja
11-08-12, 01:45 AM
eBay, looks like a bunch of housings up there right now. All eom, but they are there. I would probably go the halogen route and convert those rather than buy the hid version and figure out the wiring for that. Would be a fun project I imagine but not so cheap. 300 for the light kit nd 200+ for the housings.

Just a thought.
I was looking at those. Only problem is majority have a broken tabs. I'm still trying to figure out how the guy that installed the volt kit on kb car stuff without drilling a separate hole for wiring. He says that everything can be tucked into the housing but majority of installs here state you have to drill the extra hole.
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/2012-Cadillac-SRX-Volt-6000k-HID-kit-s/245129.htm

bwclemons
11-09-12, 11:05 AM
The ballast and everything else will slide into the housings, so you don't have to put any holes into the housing if you don't want to. At first I thought they would slide around but once they move into a position and get jamed in they don't move any more. So far they don't seem to be effected by any heat in the housings.

SrxNamja
11-09-12, 03:32 PM
The ballast and everything else will slide into the housings, so you don't have to put any holes into the housing if you don't want to. At first I thought they would slide around but once they move into a position and get jamed in they don't move any more. So far they don't seem to be effected by any heat in the housings.

did you drill holes or end up just placing them in the housing? I means I would be extremely happy if I didnt have to. I contacted kb and they stated the srx example posted was from this forum probably but i wonder whos car it was so maybe they could chime in as well.

bwclemons
11-10-12, 09:30 AM
I've done it. They can be slipped in via the cover when you install the bulb. The error code eliminator will go in there also. It saves some of the wiring because you connect directly to the connector in the housing. You may need to use a zip tie to make sure the wires aren't touching the metal projector when it's in the housing. It works pretty well. I removed the whole housing from the car though. If you are trying to do it without removing the housing I'm not sure how easily it will all stuff in.

shimy86
12-05-12, 12:12 PM
bwclemons.... where did you order from and how much was the kit with the code eliminator. Was it just plug and go with no flicker problems and everything still works like from factory??

Thanks!!

bwclemons
12-09-12, 01:36 AM
Yes, everything works fine. I would use kbcarstuff.com. Get the standard VOLT Hid system. H10 bulb and
4300k for the color. Also get the can us fix. Do not get a harness. Everything will stuff into the housings and you will not have to cut anything and from the outside no one will know anything is different from the original. I'm not sure if everything will be able to be done without removing the housing because I did remove them for a install. I would try though. You can always remove the intake for the passenger side and the fuse block for the drivers side. I personally would remove the front cover, but that's me.[ Xenon depot also has good systems so you could use them also.