: 2006 STS Service Suspension Sys after replacing Struts/Shocks with OE



migsatc60
10-04-12, 09:20 AM
I had all my struts/shocks leaking. I just got finished replacing them all, 2K for all. Now I have a Service Suspension Sys on the DIC. I rechecked all connections and they are good. Is there a reset anywhere after replacing the Struts/Shocks. The ride is better, but still feel the road through the steering wheel especially on grooved pavement. It's like the Magnetic Ride is not working in the front.

Carvone
10-04-12, 12:53 PM
No reset that I am aware of. If you're sure the connections are good and tight then check the fuses to make sure everything is communicating, are there any codes?
Where did you buy the new struts/shocks? Did you do the install yourself? How much of a difference is there in the ride now? Curious as I am getting ready to do mine.

migsatc60
10-04-12, 12:57 PM
RockAuto was the cheapest. Replaced them myself and I'm not a mechanic. About 2 hours total on the fronts and about an hour on the backs. They made a real difference in the ride. It rides like a Cadillac and not like my F250. Can I get the codes from AutoZone or do I have to go to Cadillac?

Ludacrisvp
10-04-12, 05:12 PM
I assume you have F55 MRC suspension? Or was the leak part of the alc system?

migsatc60
10-04-12, 07:12 PM
Yes F55. Magna ride. All 4 struts/shocks were leaking. I checked my air bags on the rear shocks with the car running and they were not inflated. Should they be? Where is the air compressor located? I think this may be my service suspension system dic message. Any help will be useful. Thanks in advance.

Subsailor613
10-04-12, 07:30 PM
Do at least the fronts, you can check easily, have the wiring plugged in on the top of the towers ?
Sometime I forget stuff, that's real easy, by trying to remember "IF" if did all the HARD stuff.
As far as I know the compressor is in the trunk area, passenger side.
I stand corrected if anyone knows the exact location.
Good Luck. :cool2::cool::cool2:

EChas3
10-04-12, 07:57 PM
The dealer can reset the codes for you but I'd bet the system reset procedure would clear them as well.

Remove Negative & Positive battery cables, touch them together & reconnect. You may need to use the owners manual Express Window calibration procedure.

ddalder
10-04-12, 11:28 PM
Most codes are stored in an EEPROM now and frequently can't be reset/cleared by disconnecting the battery. It may be worth a try, but I wouldn't hold your breath.

Is it safe to assume these shocks are OE? The air compressor is located underneath the car on the passenger side and is not accessible through the trunk. When you first start your car, it should operate for about 4 seconds. I'm not sold on this being your problem. Did you damage any of the air lines during the R & R?

Codes would be very helpful, but places like Autozone probably won't be able to help. These will be chassis codes and they likely won't be able to retrieve anything useful without at least a Tech2 or other advanced device.

I would re-check all connections, paying particular attention to each connector. Fully remove the connector and examine each for any bent or damaged terminals. Make sure they are properly aligned and seated fully when reconnecting.

migsatc60
10-05-12, 07:27 AM
Thanks for all the info. I replaced the front struts and rear shocks with OE. I disconnected, inspected and reconnected all the electrical connections on all four struts/shocks. What I did find was the passenger rear shock leaking air when the compressor was on. I removed the tire and disconnected the air line. There were no O rings or anything to make a tight seal. I put 2 O rings in to get it to seal tightly and now the airbags on the shocks fill up. I still have the Service Suspension Sys Dic message. Will stop by the dealership to get the codes and reset them.

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Final question. (probably not). When I switch from Touring mode to Performance mode, how much should the ride change? I just bought this car about a month ago and I am still trying to figure out how everything works.

EChas3
10-05-12, 07:19 PM
If the battery cable reset is ineffective I don't think there's an option short of a dealer (or other shop with a Tech II or eq.) I have a friend that claims all GM's can be reset by cycling the ignition to their run position 5 times in a row. (I don't buy it for these cars.) If that's true, press & hold ACC for 5 seconds to put the car in Run mode. Wait 2 seconds & press Off. Repeat.

Many codes will eventually reset without intervention but I'd bet you have some other issue such as mis-matched tires or a wheel-speed sensor.

MRC is an active suspension. You may not notice much difference between 'Touring' and 'Performance' at all, unless you drive agressively. Take a spin through all branches of a cloverleaf and work the tires and brakes. 'Performance' flattens out yaw & roll, firms the ride, etc. but not all that much until needed.

ddalder
10-05-12, 07:28 PM
Yes, I think your friend is mistaken. There are several codes that will clear on their own, but from past experience and reading through the service manual, many of them are at least 50 - 100 ignition cycles without a repeat fault. Also, keep in mind that some codes are current (a fault was detected the last time the circuit/system was tested), but also history codes for faults that have occurred in the past. Many tests do not occur with every ignition cycle either. The history codes are the ones that will eventually go away with enough successful ignition cycles. The number required depends on which code was generated.

curtc
10-06-12, 01:12 AM
From my limited experience with my F55 STS I notice a considerable difference between Touring and Performance modes, much stiffer in Performance mode, can really feel the seems in the road. Touring is still stiff though, but hell, it's a Cadillac on Corvette suspension...

Or is the Corvette on Cadillac suspension? :) Cadillac got the F55 first... :thumbsup: