: Battery Size?



sprink60
09-21-12, 11:10 PM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

the cadillac man
09-22-12, 01:04 AM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

I have a optoma red top rated at 880@32 1000ca fits and works like a charm just have to use the included puck mount,

I've had it in for about 6 months so far and no problems (just a heads up mine did this with the old battery and I cleaned the terminals and cables and it helped some but replacing the battery fixed it)

The specs for the battery you listed are way to low for the amount of computer modules in these trucks it will put a big strain on the altanator and wear it out quick.

wesyder
09-22-12, 11:33 AM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

I have been experiencing the same thing i recently put 2 yellow tops and a 250 amp alternator and my volt guage acts the same way sometimes high sometimes low like you say , im pretty sure we have plenty of power i guess since the alternator is computer controlled thats all the power the truck needs at that time

the cadillac man
09-22-12, 02:27 PM
I have been experiencing the same thing i recently put 2 yellow tops and a 250 amp alternator and my volt guage acts the same way sometimes high sometimes low like you say , im pretty sure we have plenty of power i guess since the alternator is computer controlled thats all the power the truck needs at that time

It is computer controlled I seen online somewhere that the yellow top doesn't agree with certain cars and trucks try a red top and see if it helps that's what I have and it hasn't gave me a problem so far.

wesyder
09-22-12, 02:31 PM
We've tried many different batteries in our fleet of gm suv's with no difference but its never become an issue i guess that gauge gives us peace of mind

the cadillac man
09-22-12, 03:20 PM
We've tried many different batteries in our fleet of gm suv's with no difference but its never become an issue i guess that gauge gives us peace of mind

Mine runs around 13.2-14 volts since I put in the red top which was 12.5-13.2 before with the old battery(which was a lot smaller) my radar detector has a voltage meter built in and the gauge on the truck is pretty darn close to the same readout.

mikedyk43
09-22-12, 10:19 PM
The voltage fluctuations don't really have much to do with the battery when you consider that the alternator is what provides electrical power while the engine is running. Generally speaking, an alternator's output voltage will vary from lower RPM to higher RPM. If your voltage fluctuations are occurring while at a constant RPM, then your real suspects are the alternator or the computer controlling it. In my opinion, as long as your voltage reading is above 12VDC, I don't really see a reason for concern.

the cadillac man
09-22-12, 11:08 PM
The voltage fluctuations don't really have much to do with the battery when you consider that the alternator is what provides electrical power while the engine is running. Generally speaking, an alternator's output voltage will vary from lower RPM to higher RPM. If your voltage fluctuations are occurring while at a constant RPM, then your real suspects are the alternator or the computer controlling it. In my opinion, as long as your voltage reading is above 12VDC, I don't really see a reason for concern.

True although I did notice the gauge move a lot before I cleaned my cables which doesn't now.

gmercedesbenz
09-26-12, 08:46 PM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

I'm running an Optima YellowTop. BCI Size 34. CCA:750 MCA:870.

Ahh the voltage fluctuation issue. I went through this over a year ago. Since then I've replaced my battery, alternator and wiring and I've gotten it to a point where I'm confident that there isn't an issue. I run a single 250 RMS sub, 55 watt HID in the low beam, 35 watt HID in the fog and about 4-5 electronic gadgets. Nothing terribly taxing, but more power draw than the stock setup.

When I start my truck in the morning, the computer keeps the RPMs up at about 700-750 depending on the weather outside. She'll drop them down gradually after about 25 seconds or so again, depending on weather. During this initial start, I'll see my voltage hold steady at about 16 volts. Once she drops the RPMs down to the normal idle of 500 RPMs, I'll see the voltage drop to about 14.5 -15. This is all normal.

Once warmed up, at highway speeds she'll hold a steady 14.5 volts. Upon stopping, they may drop slightly depending on what's running at the time. If I have just the radio/hvac/sub/maybe 1 seat heater or headlights going, she'll hover right at 14.5. If I turn on the defroster, crank both hvac blowers and all seat heaters, then she'll drop to about 13.5 volts. If I add an uncommon load (say rolling up all four windows at the same time with all the above mentioned on and cranked) and continually idle, the computer will up the RPMs to about 550 to compensate for the demand. Again, normal.

Now when things weren't so normal, I'd be driving down the highway and my voltage gauge would sometimes bounce. 13 to 15 to 14 to 12 to 15, with no changes in throttle or electrical demand. Other times I'd come to stop and the voltage would dip, from 14.5 to about 12 then jump back up to 14. Of course the battery test and alternator test at the stealership came back ok, but I had both replaced anyway since I wasn't convinced.

After talking to numerous experts and days worth of online searching, I attribute the slight voltage fluctuations to design. There is a TSB out that says when coming to a stop a drop in voltage and slight interior light dimming is totally normal.

You'll find a link to a thread I had running on this below. Originally my issues began with an Optima Red Top. I can tell you I've had much better luck with the Yellow Top.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-ext-esv-forum-1999/221314-voltage-gauge-fluctuation-optima-red-top.html

gmercedesbenz
09-26-12, 08:47 PM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

I'm running an Optima YellowTop. BCI Size 34. CCA:750 MCA:870.

Ahh the voltage fluctuation issue. I went through this over a year ago. Since then I've replaced my battery, alternator and wiring and I've gotten it to a point where I'm confident that there isn't an issue. I run a single 250 RMS sub, 55 watt HID in the low beam, 35 watt HID in the fog and about 4-5 electronic gadgets. Nothing terribly taxing, but more power draw than the stock setup.

When I start my truck in the morning, the computer keeps the RPMs up at about 700-750 depending on the weather outside. She'll drop them down gradually after about 25 seconds or so again, depending on weather. During this initial start, I'll see my voltage hold steady at about 16 volts. Once she drops the RPMs down to the normal idle of 500 RPMs, I'll see the voltage drop to about 14.5 -15. This is all normal.

Once warmed up, at highway speeds she'll hold a steady 14.5 volts. Upon stopping, they may drop slightly depending on what's running at the time. If I have just the radio/hvac/sub/maybe 1 seat heater or headlights going, she'll hover right at 14.5. If I turn on the defroster, crank both hvac blowers and all seat heaters, then she'll drop to about 13.5 volts. If I add an uncommon load (say rolling up all four windows at the same time with all the above mentioned on and cranked) and continually idle, the computer will up the RPMs to about 550 to compensate for the demand. Again, normal.

Now when things weren't so normal, I'd be driving down the highway and my voltage gauge would sometimes bounce. 13 to 15 to 14 to 12 to 15, with no changes in throttle or electrical demand. Other times I'd come to stop and the voltage would dip, from 14.5 to about 12 then jump back up to 14. Of course the battery test and alternator test at the stealership came back ok, but I had both replaced anyway since I wasn't convinced.

After talking to numerous experts and days worth of online searching, I attribute the slight voltage fluctuations to design. There is a TSB out that says when coming to a stop a drop in voltage and slight interior light dimming is totally normal.

You'll find a link to a thread I had running on this below. Originally my issues began with an Optima Red Top. I can tell you I've had much better luck with the Yellow Top.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-ext-esv-forum-1999/221314-voltage-gauge-fluctuation-optima-red-top.html

the cadillac man
09-26-12, 09:01 PM
I'm running an Optima YellowTop. BCI Size 34. CCA:750 MCA:870.

Ahh the voltage fluctuation issue. I went through this over a year ago. Since then I've replaced my battery, alternator and wiring and I've gotten it to a point where I'm confident that there isn't an issue. I run a single 250 RMS sub, 55 watt HID in the low beam, 35 watt HID in the fog and about 4-5 electronic gadgets. Nothing terribly taxing, but more power draw than the stock setup.

When I start my truck in the morning, the computer keeps the RPMs up at about 700-750 depending on the weather outside. She'll drop them down gradually after about 25 seconds or so again, depending on weather. During this initial start, I'll see my voltage hold steady at about 16 volts. Once she drops the RPMs down to the normal idle of 500 RPMs, I'll see the voltage drop to about 14.5 -15. This is all normal.

Once warmed up, at highway speeds she'll hold a steady 14.5 volts. Upon stopping, they may drop slightly depending on what's running at the time. If I have just the radio/hvac/sub/maybe 1 seat heater or headlights going, she'll hover right at 14.5. If I turn on the defroster, crank both hvac blowers and all seat heaters, then she'll drop to about 13.5 volts. If I add an uncommon load (say rolling up all four windows at the same time with all the above mentioned on and cranked) and continually idle, the computer will up the RPMs to about 550 to compensate for the demand. Again, normal.

Now when things weren't so normal, I'd be driving down the highway and my voltage gauge would sometimes bounce. 13 to 15 to 14 to 12 to 15, with no changes in throttle or electrical demand. Other times I'd come to stop and the voltage would dip, from 14.5 to about 12 then jump back up to 14. Of course the battery test and alternator test at the stealership came back ok, but I had both replaced anyway since I wasn't convinced.

After talking to numerous experts and days worth of online searching, I attribute the slight voltage fluctuations to design. There is a TSB out that says when coming to a stop a drop in voltage and slight interior light dimming is totally normal.

You'll find a link to a thread I had running on this below. Originally my issues began with an Optima Red Top. I can tell you I've had much better luck with the Yellow Top.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-ext-esv-forum-1999/221314-voltage-gauge-fluctuation-optima-red-top.html

I am thinking of getting a yellow top for my car since I don't drive it much and the sound system(I am concerned about it taxiing the alternator due to it's age.

wesyder
09-26-12, 09:07 PM
I am thinking of getting a yellow top for my car since I don't drive it much and the sound system(I am concerned about it taxiing the alternator due to it's age.

Yeah i haven't had any issues with 2 yellow tops and a 250 amp alternator, its actually overkill in my opinion till i install a bigger system

the cadillac man
09-26-12, 11:29 PM
Yeah i haven't had any issues with 2 yellow tops and a 250 amp alternator, its actually overkill in my opinion till i install a bigger system

My car has a 100amp alternator I just need a better battery to help keep my amps from killing the alternator.

wesyder
09-27-12, 07:56 AM
My car has a 100amp alternator I just need a better battery to help keep my amps from killing the alternator.

You may wanna consider a second battery

the cadillac man
09-27-12, 10:05 AM
Ypu may wanna consider a second battery

I do have a capicatior in line between the amps and battery but I only worry about it when the bass is hitting for long periods(If I did a second battery would I need a second alternator?

wesyder
09-27-12, 12:23 PM
I do have a capicatior in line between the amps and battery but I only worry about it when the bass is hitting for long periods(If I did a second battery would I need a second alternator?

No, a second alt is not needed the second battery actually acts like a capacitor with a better reserve capacity

the cadillac man
09-27-12, 03:26 PM
No, a second alt is not needed the second battery actually acts like a capacitor with a better reserve capacity

I may see into it since I am restoring the car(a lotta stuff needs replacing due to age and wear as it is a 79 and pushing around 33 years old if I am right)

sprink60
10-13-12, 06:41 PM
I notice at times my volt meter will fluctuate from as low as 12V to as high as 15V (indicated). I took a look at the size of my battery and it looked like the old Group Size 22...i thought it would at least be a 24 or 27. Then I looked at the CCA capacity...450 CCA!!! I checked the OEM specs in the manual and it calls for a 650 CCA I think.

My question is what size /CCA batteries are most of you guys using and what is the highest CCA rating that you have found that will fit the battery box?

OK...moving on...went to Costco today...paid $80 for a new Interstate 700 CCA 850 CA and left them a junk battery I had laying around for a core. I pulled the 450 CCA Interstate that the previous owner had installed in March. In a word...problem solved...no voltage fluctuation...rock solid 15 VDC. The 450 will be used as a spare for projects. FYI..the 450 is about half the weight of the 700....more guts...more amps.

the cadillac man
10-13-12, 08:13 PM
OK...moving on...went to Costco today...paid $80 for a new Interstate 700 CCA 850 CA and left them a junk battery I had laying around for a core. I pulled the 450 CCA Interstate that the previous owner had installed in March. In a word...problem solved...no voltage fluctuation...rock solid 15 VDC. The 450 will be used as a spare for projects. FYI..the 450 is about half the weight of the 700....more guts...more amps.

That sounds great that you found out what was wrong with your truck
I had the same issues and it was the battery I now have a optima red top 800cca 1000ca and no problems

sprink60
10-13-12, 09:10 PM
I really started thinking about this the more I drove it that the 450 CCA battery was no more than a "Get By" battery thrown in to sell the truck. We have multiple systems in these vehicles that pull a bunch of amperage...especially with dual A/C, air ride pumps,etc. I wanted an Optima but just also spent $300 yesterday on Mobile 1 along with 140W Mobile 1 Synthetic for front and rear differentials so I had to stay within a budget.

the cadillac man
10-13-12, 09:19 PM
I really started thinking about this the more I drove it that the 450 CCA battery was no more than a "Get By" battery thrown in to sell the truck. We have multiple systems in these vehicles that pull a bunch of amperage...especially with dual A/C, air ride pumps,etc. I wanted an Optima but just also spent $300 yesterday on Mobile 1 along with 140W Mobile 1 Synthetic for front and rear differentials so I had to stay within a budget.

Mine was the same way when I got mine had a cheap(Walmart) get by battery

I had to replace it as it had developed a bad cell which was killed when my rear air module failed(shorted internally) that causes a slow drain that killed the battery overnight.