: which rotors and brakes should I get?

09-10-12, 03:01 PM
Im wanting to replace my squeeky brakes on my 40 deville. I do alot of highway driving for work and weekend trips. I found these on ebay. what do you guys think? or any other suggestions?




09-10-12, 03:43 PM
You can always purchase rotors and pads through me as well since I am a vendor on here and you get my products at a discounted price as well. PM or email me at
Kevin@r1concepts.com and I'd be glad to help you out.

09-10-12, 05:24 PM
Kevin, I just sent you an email.

09-10-12, 05:32 PM
Just received it. Thank you.

09-17-12, 03:44 PM
Any word on brake options?

09-17-12, 04:02 PM
Sorry if I haven't got to you yet, been real busy ever since I got in. You emailed me right? It's because I can't find your email that you sent me. Can you forward me what I sent you last time we talked? Please and thank you.

12-12-12, 10:37 AM
The holes and slots of a rotor can also graze the pad material, which will decrease pad life but also help maintain heat in the pad (critical for track pads). Note that the Turner Motorsport rotors have their holes and slots chambered to allow smooth transit of the pad over the rotor surface.

12-14-12, 10:39 AM
For brake info and ideas, talk to r1concepts, one of our member vendors.

It's "chamfered" and many sport rotor makers and rebranders do it. Slots tend to create an air noise "whirrrrrrr" on prolonged high speed braking - nature of the beast. Drilled and slotted is plain bling overkill.

Slots are designed to move heat and debris away from the rotor and pads, decreasing glazing and scoring. A good set of ceramic pads and rotors will last as long as or longer than OEM units under normal driving conditions - but go to autocross or track days and, whether OEM or aftermarket, all brake bets are off.

New brakes or brakes hot from high speed braking or test stops: DO NOT come to a complete stop or, if you must, put the stick in P and take your foot off the brake: Hot rotors transfer pad material resins to the rotors and that's what causes brake judder, not "warping". Rotors are machined from cast (gray) iron - why ? Because cast iron does not warp.

To dispel a lot of brake myth, do some surfing through the EBC brake site - yes, they make all sorts of brakes, but their info is pretty straightforward and does not tend toward self-advertisement as do most other aftermarket manufacturer sites.

www.ebcbrakes.com (http://www.ebcbrakes.com) - left column, automotive, pad and rotor info. Many links at the bottom of the pages, too, or this one - http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/index.shtml

04-28-13, 05:40 PM
Most that info is correct. However, cast iron does indeed warp. Rotors warp, cast iron skillets warp, cast iron heads warp. You take a rotor off a car because it has a bad pulsation when braking. You Put it on the brake lathe and take oh say .004 off and stop lathe. Half the rotor is cut clean, the other half has been untouched by the lathe bits. If the rotor wasn't warped, how could this be possible?

04-29-13, 11:17 AM
Instead of yet again :horse:, go through a few brake manufacturer websites and study .......... here's one ........


04-29-13, 09:23 PM
Instead of yet again :horse:, go through a few brake manufacturer websites and study .......... here's one ........


No need. 30 years of doing brakes. I know, rotors warp. I even installed a new set that were warped out of the box. No friction transfer on them. Main cause: unevenly torqued lug nuts. It's fact. Google it. I'm not disputing friction transfer, I'm saying rotors do warp, it's proven fact. If you have resurfaced the multitude of rotors that I have over the past 30 years, you'd know what I am talking about. When you put a rotor on the lathe and it takes .040 just to get it true, that's not friction transfer, it's warped. Same as .020. There's not that much friction built up on one half of the surface of a rotor. It's warped. For the record, using the term warped simply covers several terms such as out of round, excessive runout, unparalleled...

05-03-13, 09:53 AM
For the record, using the term warped simply covers several terms such as out of round, excessive runout, unparalleled...

Glad you clarified your misuse of the term "warp". Every brake diagnostic referenced in all the brake threads cautions the repairing person to check the rotor for those same mechanical defects ^^^.

For some reason, these FWD cars are susceptible to improper lug nut torque - the recommended procedure is to build up to 100 lb/ft in a crisscross star pattern. That alone will "cure" many complaints of vibration or poor brake performance.


05-17-13, 01:05 AM
I didn't misuse anything.. I have removed rotors where the rotor surface is in the shape of a ( . Happenes all the time, and it's warped. It's something you will never see by reading about brakes and not doing brakes on hundreds of thousands of cars over a 30 year period. You keep telling people rotors don't warp, and I'll keep fixing the cars that have them.

05-22-13, 09:52 AM
Uneven runout, or the shape of the wear in a rotor, have nothing to do with "warpage". Even brake manufacturers will tell you rotors can't warp. They're made of cast iron. Race cars heat the rotors red hot all day long. The pit crew doesn't have to change the rotors along with the tires...

05-22-13, 10:40 AM
"My mind is made up - please don't confuse me with facts .............."

"hundreds of thousands of cars over a 30 year period" implies a multiple - lets' say, for argument, 300,000. That's 10,000 a year, 250 work days, or about 40 brake jobs a day. Quite impressive, and hard to equal. Even in my on/off automotive career spanning ~59 years I doubt that I have done 500 disc brake jobs, total.......... and that would still be 8.5 jobs a year, average........... and when you factor in the phase-in timetable for automotive disc brake use in the U.S. the numbers/day become even more compressed.

Earl, No one is disputing that disc brakes can suffer from a whole list of problems that cause rattles and shakes - but there's an awful lot of paper - done, researched and published - by the brake manufacturers themselves, that discounts the "warp" theory.

05-24-13, 10:49 PM
For every site you find that says they don't warp, there is one that says they do.


Cast iron skillets warp, cast iron cylinder heads warp. Cast iron rotors warp. Like I said before, go ahead and keep telling people they don't warp, and I'll keep fixing the ones that are.

Douglas Rome
08-08-13, 06:31 AM
Earl, you can't change anyone's mind you may as well caulk it up. I'm a
backyard mechanic and have done many brake jobs on my personal cars
over the years. I must say it got a whole lot easier since the advent of disc
brakes. What I do is only replace the rotors if they are causing vibes or
they are scored bad. I don't turn them either, just replace the pads. One time
I tried expensive pads, if I remember EBC's, what a mistake, not only did they
cost too much but they were terrible dusting and wore out faster and a total
waste of time and money. I'm not a race car driver, just an average old man
putzer, don't need anything but OEM, they last longest and stay cleanest and
make less noise. That's why these engineers make the big bucks. thanks, douglas

08-09-13, 06:43 AM
Curious - I use EBC slotted rotors and Redstuff ceramic pads and have excellent braking with NO dust. 2 years now and the pads are hardly worn. Pictures in my albums. (I gotcha by 6 years)

08-13-13, 09:35 PM
Next time I need pads ima try out the redstuff. I have akebono's for two years now and they are still about 70% left. No dust at all, seems to stop about like ac delco's. Sub, what kind of difference to you feel with the slotted rotors?

08-15-13, 09:37 AM
Hard one, Earl ............ I went straight from the stock GM rotors/pads to the EBC Black Dash Ultimax (whew!!!) slotted rotors and Redstuff pads. After a wild day of breakin 2 years ago, they're great brakes.

The reason I did the change was speed-related: I run the car occasionally on public days at Dover raceway and an old airport road (farm border) over in east MD. At the airport you run out of pavement and have to make a hard right turn at 6,000 feet - just over a mile. The stock brakes would literally disappear by the time you dropped from 130+ to ~40 - one time ! With the slotted rotors (and I think it's not just the slots - the ventilation vanes are better) - I still have plenty of brake on the side road. At Dover, two pretty severe slowdowns from 100+ would make the stock brakes "slippery" - no such sensation with the slotted rotors - same reasoning as above.

Coming down from speed you can hear the slots - a kind of low-pitched background 'whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.......', but it's not loud.

Best part: The braking action is glass-smooth............... and essentially zero dust (after breakin).

08-15-13, 08:06 PM
Hmmm interesting, thanks for the info.

08-16-13, 12:18 AM
Got a set of EBC Ultimax rotors and red stuff pad's coming for my CTS same setup I used on my last car with no issue's

08-16-13, 10:00 AM
For those that DO go with EBC pads and rotors ........... The pads come with a smear of EBC's "Brake-In" compound on the face of the material. It's a hard, slightly abrasive coating that wears away quickly and smoothes the rotors as well as assures there aren't and pad resin deposits left from old pads or, in the case of the Ultimax rotors, the black zinc coating is polished off the braking surfaces. During the break-in period these pads can be scary - the noise and vibration may be just awful for the first few hard stops. Follow the recommended break-in procedure - I did mine in one afternoon, worried a lot, and am now a happy camper; someone who is not used to working with high performance brakes may well have second thoughts and be scared, especially if the break-in has to occur in a city driving environment.

08-16-13, 02:00 PM
The paper work that comes with the EBC's does state most of that