: Codes 4.9

08-19-12, 04:33 PM
Pulled these codes on my sons '92 Eldorado 4.9, E053, R033 and ECM?
It's been dying out lately and won't start back up until it is cooled off for awhile. Can anyone help me with what these codes mean? I think the first one has something to do with the distributor.
Thanks for any help.

08-19-12, 06:22 PM
Got to this link on how to pull codes. There is a section on OBD I. Post back with your codes AND their definitions. Here's the link...


08-20-12, 04:23 PM
E053 Distributor Signal Interupt
R033 Derm Incompatibility
ECM? Well I can't find that one anywhere.
Any help appreciated.

08-20-12, 05:24 PM
There has been a lot of 4.9 distributors dying lately. They must have been engineered to expire in exactly 20 years lol. It sounds like it could be just the ignition module. I don't recall how much they cost lately but the last one I bought seemed too expensive to me. If it turns out to be something else you may wish that you just bought the whole distributor for $150 or so in the first place. Since it seems to be heat related I would probably gamble on just a new module. good luck.

08-20-12, 10:21 PM
"ECM?" is not a code. It's asking if you want to move on to the next mode.

08-21-12, 04:09 PM
Thanks for the info guys, I've got a new Accell cap and rotor and a new Delco ignition module on the way, I'll start from there and see what happens.

08-23-12, 01:28 PM
If the ICM doesn't fix it, look to the pickup coil. That was the culprit on my distributor problem.

08-23-12, 02:13 PM
Thanks for the info guys, I've got a new Accell cap and rotor and a new Delco ignition module on the way, I'll start from there and see what happens.

Really, where did you find the Delco ICM?

08-23-12, 04:07 PM
Thanks for the pickup coil tip, found the ignition module at ebay, Delco Remy brand new in box $15 shipped.

09-02-12, 01:01 PM
OK, replaced the cap, rotor and ignition module. No more E053 code but still having problems with it wanting to die out or stall when driving. May be a fuel or injector problem, don't know. I guess I'll start by changing the fuel filter. Any ideas?

09-04-12, 04:16 PM
Changed fuel filter, wasn't the problem.

09-04-12, 08:18 PM
I read back through the posts again. You replaced the ICM, right? Did you use plenty of heat sink grease? I know everybody has got to be sick and tired of me asking, but what kind of shape is your harness in inside the distributor?

09-05-12, 04:25 AM
Yes I used plenty of heat sink grease. Harness still seems ok. Today acted up again and wouldn't start for an hour. Checked codes and now getting current E048. I had cleaned the throttle body and there was a lot of carbon in one of those tubes. So I'm going to pull the EGR valve and clean it up. Should I pull the throttle body to access the EGR easier? BTW the E048 is an EGR code.

09-05-12, 08:35 AM
You shouldn't be having the starting problem with that code, sounds like something else.

Yes it is much easier if you remove the throttle body first. Makes getting to the EGR bolts real easy. I just leave the ISC and TPS on the throttle body when I clean it. NO adjustment needed. Check out your EGR real good, make sure it is clean and no tear in the diaphram. For that matter when you do get it to run at an idle, lift up under the diphram, it should loose a lot of RPM and might even die. Check your harness to the EGR solenoid.

09-05-12, 09:43 AM
It sounds to me like the ISC isn't working at all.

09-05-12, 09:57 PM
Cleaning the EGR tubes and throttle valve is a good maintenance, but as mentioned above, carbon buildup will not likely prevent the engine from starting. Think Air, Fuel and Fire.....every engine needs all 3 to run. To check Fire, toss a timing light on the plug wires see if the light blips....if yes, then Fire is probably good. Your engine's symptoms - and my money - is still on the ICM. They fail under hi temperature, so I've read of some people putting an ice cube on them and then attempt to start the engine.

Btw, in #10 above you mentioned that you replaced the ICM and the engine wants "to die out or stall when driving". As Al mentioned, if the Idle Speed Controller isn't working and is stuck in its retracted position, your engine will be starved and will die out. You can simply test this (and probably already have) by maintaining idle speed by keeping your foot on the accelerator. There is another test that you can perform on the ISC by getting it to extend and then unplugging it....keep in mind that you idle speed would likely stay at a way too high and would likely run away on you. Search this forum for "ISC Test" and you'll likely find the specifics.

09-05-12, 11:33 PM
:yeah:^^^^^^ That is why we suggest buying a FSM. Ebay is your friend.

09-18-12, 04:26 AM
Well, been working 7 days a week on the swing so I haven't had much time to work on the kids caddy. What I've done is pull the EGR valve and clean it up, works fine now and not throwing code for EGR. Checked wires with timing light and all seems good. Cleared all codes and not getting any current codes showing up. Here's something he didn't tell me, he's getting 10.8 mpg according to the computer readout, ok somethings up. He says he will here some popping or backfiring every so often while accelerating and car will have no power or will start bucking like it needs fuel or spark. Still the same problem with the car not wanting to start after it's been driven and up to operating temp, then he will stop somewhere to get something and come back out to start the car and it will just crank and not start, after 1/2 hour to an hour it will start again. I'm going to check the fuel pressure this weekend if I get a day off. I'm thinking fuel pump may be going. I'm stumped and I don't want to be just throwing parts in it that don't solve the problem.

09-18-12, 02:16 PM
Update, rented a fuel pressure tester today. Hooked it up and getting 22 psi at idle. Drove it and when accelerating the pressure drops even lower, looks like it's time for a new fuel pump, I don't think it's the regulator as I removed the vacuum hose and there were no signs of any fuel leaking. How much time am I looking at to replace the pump?

09-21-12, 03:22 AM
New fuel pump in and runs great now. I think it was the original pump so it lasted 20 years and 159,000 miles.