: Issues Removing Crank Pulley



andyoww
07-19-12, 04:43 PM
I had a fun time last night trying to remove the crank pully.

Had no problems removing the bolt using the crank holder tool I made:

94987
94988
94989
(Do you like the nest? It was there when I pulled the intake)

I did, however, have some serious issues pulling the actual crank pulley.

94990

This is my Grandpa's puller from the farm.

Couple questions:
1. Can shafts on this pullers be replaced?
2. What are your recommendations for replacing this puller (that will stand up to abuse in the future)?
NOTE: I do NOT want to spend four thousand, eight hundred, twenty three dollars, and fourty two cents on a new puller.
3. What should I use for the puller shaft to ride in while trying to remove this pulley?
I originally used a standard 3" 3/8 drive extension, but flattened the end & hurt the inside (not to mention the puller threads, as well).
4. Has anybody else ever had this much trouble removing the pulley?
5. Do I really need to take the pulley off & check the timing?
I remember the thread with the horrible looking timing tensioner (was it cl1986?) & since I have it torn apart this far, I would REALLY like to see what's behind door #1.

Does anybody have any other advice for this stage of the game?
Crank pulley, timing, then the cam covers & heads are all that's left.

94991

Thanks Party People!

Submariner409
07-19-12, 06:27 PM
Good 10W-30 oil and a WIX 51522 filter.

ternstes
07-19-12, 07:31 PM
I used a three jaw puller from harbor freight on several different engines. It is a cheap tool and will probably break at some point, but it gets the job done. I stacked a couple washers on the crank snout for the puller shaft to press against. The pulley should come off rather easily.

How many miles on the motor? While you have it out you might as well check EVERYTHING since it is all easily accessible. The lower tensioner on the crank chain seems to be the one replaced most often. The chain slippers and guides should show minimal wear if the engine was maintained properly.

Ranger
07-19-12, 10:27 PM
NOTE: I do NOT want to spend four thousand, eight hundred, twenty three dollars, and fourty two cents on a new puller.
A $4,823.42 gear puller? Are you serious? That looks just like the one in one of my tool drawers. Don't recall where or when I bought it, but it probably cost about $4800 less (and I haven't broken it yet).

jimsbox
07-19-12, 10:43 PM
Make sure to grease the threads of the gear puller shaft liberally, tension it up good and snug, then give the end of the shaft a couple of good whacks with a hammer, increase tension and repeat, etc. Get a cheap puller from harbor freight and pull on the inner part of the pully, not on the outer rim.

bill buttermore
07-20-12, 12:28 AM
I used a Craftsman 3-jaw puller with a short Harbor Freight 3/8" drive extension. The puller bolt was lubed with cam lube and I tapped the end of the puller bolt after each turn. Mine was really tight. I had to clean up the extension when I was done - it had distorted a bit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/billbuttermore/Northstar/IM000001l.jpg

andyoww
07-20-12, 01:31 AM
Thanks guys.

I rented a 3 jaw puller from O'Reilly's.
It came right off without pounding (I'm sure I broke it loose with the old one;)).

I used an extension as well.
Pretty much ruined it.

I did NOT pull on the outer part of the pully.

I think I'll see what Sears has for pullers next time I'm there.

I have the right side timing things torn out.
All look well.

I can't remember if it has 146,000, 160,000, or 172,000 miles.

I'm glad I was able to pull the pulley off.
I think I may have a cracked/rotted out oil pump.

Pics of that to come in a new thread later.

Ranger
07-20-12, 12:17 PM
I think I may have a cracked/rotted out oil pump.

Pics of that to come in a new thread later.
What makes you say that? I think that would be a first. They're pretty reliable.

Speedygman
07-20-12, 03:23 PM
It would make it easier to be at the other end of the cranks shaft to pull the harmonic pulley off, not at the flywheel end? Just asking?

Ranger
07-20-12, 03:55 PM
The balancer IS at the other end. Balancer is in front and the flywheel is in the rear. No way to pull it from the rear (or even see it for that matter).

andyoww
07-20-12, 05:52 PM
So...

I was able to get my pulley off & here's what I find:
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To me, this looks like it has 3 cracks & a "soft" "mushy" aluminum spot.

Are those casting seams?
They don't look like valid seams to me.

Here are a few more views:
95084
95085

Does that look like an aluminum spot that has been stressed to anyone else?

Thanks in advance!

jimsbox
07-20-12, 09:36 PM
Are we joking now? I thought the rear pictures were to show how he locked the crank without the special tool. The harmonic balancer is on the front, which is over the timing cover which is over the oil pump. Make sure to prime the pump if you pull it out and also make sure you torque the harmonic balancer bolt because the oil pump is a friction drive which will slip if the balancer bolt is too loose.

jimsbox
07-20-12, 10:13 PM
Those ridges look like they are raised rather than depressed so my vote is legitimate casting seams. I also don't think there would be enough stress in that area to crack the housing. Why are you concerned, did you have low oil pressure? If you did, did you check the torque on the balancer bolt?

Ranger
07-20-12, 10:17 PM
Hard to tell, but I'm with Jim. They kind of look like casting marks.

P.S.
Since you mentioned the oil pump earlier and this is on the same project I merged it. I think you'll be better off keeping it all in the same thread.

andyoww
07-21-12, 03:38 PM
Thanks for merging.

I did not have low oil pressure.

I took it off because I thought it would give me easier access to the tensioner for the main chain.

jimsbox
07-21-12, 06:38 PM
If you had no oil pressure issues then I wouldn't worry about the oil pump housing, its probably fine.