: Water Pump Tensioner Question??



fristim
11-30-04, 05:17 AM
I've noticed a lil squeak coming from the water pump area, so I took off the belt cover and checked the tensioner with the belt off. It's the bearings in the pulley on the tensioner. I took the pulley off and can see that the bearings are starting to go out. My question is, can I replace just the pulley since it houses the bearings or do I have to replace the whole tensioner assembly, and if so how do i take off the whole tensioner assembly? Thanks in advance. 98 Concours 143000

mastertech
11-30-04, 08:36 AM
The pulley is not serviced, you need to replace the whole tensioner. Very easy job. First remove water pump belt cover, one bolt on top near throttle body, and two at bottom. You will see two black studs where you took the nuts off at the bottom, remove those. The tensioner will practically fall right out. Make sure belt is on water pump pulley when reinstalling. You're all set!

mcowden
11-30-04, 04:20 PM
The procedure that Mastertech outlined is exactly right. I've been through the same thing. One word of caution: When you re-install the two stud bolts, be careful not to overtorque them. For some reason, they seem to be rather fragile as I broke the short stud end off not one but BOTH of them, leaving me no studs on which to attach the cover. Trying to find replacements was a big PITA, so I found some regular bolts to hold the tensioner and made up a creative solution for mounting the cover that would make the producers of the Red Green Show beam with pride. :thumbsup:

Good luck... Let us know how it works out.

Michael

chevyorange
04-22-05, 06:12 PM
Can someone give me an idea of what 65 ft/lbs feels like? I am having overheating trouble ONLY when at bursts of WOT. It appears the belt is cracked but I cannot tell if the tensioner is putting the pressure on or not.

I was easily able to push the tensioner and remove the belt... at first glance this would seem not enough pressure... but what do I know?

Also, the vapor vent tube, could this cause overheating?

Thanks,

Adam

eldorado1
04-22-05, 07:05 PM
Can someone give me an idea of what 65 ft/lbs feels like?

Uhh... the torque from a Honda! No wait... ;)

Just imagine 65lbs on the end of a stick one foot long.

chevyorange
04-22-05, 07:06 PM
OK, 65 pounds hanging on the end of a one foot stick? Do I read you correctly?

Ranger
04-22-05, 08:28 PM
Sounds like the belt is slipping. The tensioner is not "easily" moved. You should need a 1/4" breaker bar in the lug to get enough leverage to move it enough to remove the belt.

I think the answer to your second question is yes. If the vent line is plugged it could cause the pump to cavitate which would cause a loss of collant flow and subsiquently overheat.

eldorado1
04-22-05, 09:24 PM
OK, 65 pounds hanging on the end of a one foot stick? Do I read you correctly?

Yes. Or 32.5 pounds on the end of a 2 foot stick...... Or... you can just get a torque wrench ;)

chevyorange
04-22-05, 11:59 PM
Hmm... Ok, I'm going to order a new tensioner. Everything seems to be working just fine until higher RPMs. I can easily move the tensioner with my hand and slip the belt (a new one) on at the same time.

Can someone else try to just push on theirs (Northstar) and see if it moves relatively easy?

Adam

zonie77
04-23-05, 12:33 AM
A torque wrench is a great idea. The only problem is they are usually longer than your regular wrench so you don't get exactly the same feel. You can get them pretty cheap too.

P A Sturdavent was a torque wrench co (don't think they are around anymore) that used to give away prizes if you could torque plugs properly blindfolded (before clicker type). They didn't give that many prizes away and I never got one. Part of why I have a few different torque wrenches and use them.

Ranger
04-23-05, 11:21 AM
Ok, this should give you something to go by. I just tried mine and because of the location and the shield I could only get my thumb on the pully but was unable to move it (pretty strong spring). So I put a 1/4" breaker bar on it. The bar was 5 1/2" long and was able to move the tensioner. I then got to wondering how much force it to so I hooked a fish scale to the breaker bar. It took 10-11 lbs. of pull to move the tensioner. I know this is not real acurate but should give you something to go on.

eldorado1
04-23-05, 01:01 PM
Hmm... Ok, I'm going to order a new tensioner. Everything seems to be working just fine until higher RPMs. I can easily move the tensioner with my hand and slip the belt (a new one) on at the same time.

Can someone else try to just push on theirs (Northstar) and see if it moves relatively easy?

Adam

I've tried this - it's hard to move by hand. Not impossible, but it should keep some strong tension on the belt.

chevyorange
04-23-05, 02:06 PM
OK - how about deflection - it is a long drive to get the new tensioner. I can press on the belt with not too much pressure and the tensioner moves...

Let's put it this way, it is NOWHERE near as difficult to move as the tensioner on the accessory drives.

Also, I'd like to add to this thread my current problem: car gets hot only under high accelleration and when I get home and let it idle the temp skyrockets. The fans are coming on, full coolant 50/50 mix, new thremostat, no leaks, new belt. If I drive the car "normally" it does not heat up at all and when first started and left idling will not overheat. Only after driving.

I'm really gettting torqued!!