: 2007 Escalade ESV Service Stabilitrak & Service Traction Control Lights Code P0011



Rustico
06-06-12, 10:02 PM
I have been getting the Service Strabilitrak and Service Traction Control Lights flashing on and when I pull the code the code P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced Appears. I erase the code and everything is normal for 300 miles.


I have changed the Camshaft Position sensor yesterday and cleared the code but I just got the code again. I have changed the spark plug wires, new spark plugs, 8 new ignition coils and new air filter recently. I also cleaned the MAF sensor.

Should I buy a new throttle body? I always use top tier gas. I have 156,000 miles.

cadmanchris
06-06-12, 11:40 PM
Sounds like the cam position actuator. It's not a throttle body, so don't waste your money. The actuator is behind the timing cover. Ii could be a pretty involved repair.

Rustico
06-07-12, 01:09 AM
is the cam position actuator the same as the cam position sensor I just replaced?

cadmanchris
06-07-12, 06:41 AM
No. The cam actuator is mounted on the cam sprocket itself. You have to remove the front timing cover to access it. Chances are that it is stuck in the advanced position. Make sure oil is clean also.

chevyracer
06-07-12, 07:02 PM
I been fighting with this p0011 code too, first I did the same I changed the cam position sensor then it was fine for a week then the code came back , then this last Monday I replaced the cam position actuator magnet behind the waterpump, then today the service Stabilitrak & Service Traction Control message came on then went off when I scanned it the code was there but no check engine light.

It got 195k on it

Rustico
06-07-12, 07:38 PM
Do you have the part number for the Cam position actuator solenoid? This is going to be next on my list.

chevyracer
06-07-12, 09:36 PM
Cam position actuator magnet #12585995

cam position actuator seal # 12594339

water pump gaskets x2 # 12588372

Rustico
06-09-12, 09:17 AM
I keep getting this service stabiltrack servce traction control light show every 200 miles after getting off from the freeway. I drained about 1/4 quart of oil since I had too much. My battery is at 12.45 volts when off. I ordered a new throttle body and maf sensor because they weren't that expensive and it probably needs it anyways with the 156k miles I have. I also ordered Cam position actuator magnet #12585995, cam position actuator seal # 012594339

water pump gaskets x2 # 12588372 for the mechanic to install them. If this doesn't work I am taking it to the dealer for a $100 diagnosis. Perhaps the timing chain is stretched-- basically I am throwing parts at this truck.. not good.



Is the cam position actuator magnet hard to replace? If there another solenoid I am missing other than the cam position actuator magnet and cam posisition sensor?

chevyracer
06-09-12, 04:04 PM
my buddie called me today sad the service stabiltrack traction control message flashed then went off so im assuming the p0011 came back, the only thing left is the oil control valve , cam phaser or low oil pressure.

Rustico
06-09-12, 05:24 PM
Or a streched timing chain or power control module or bad wiring or..

Please let me know what the part numbers are for the oil control valve or cam phaser. I appreciate it. It's nice to be in the same boat..:)

Rustico
06-19-12, 11:53 PM
my buddie called me today sad the service stabiltrack traction control message flashed then went off so im assuming the p0011 came back, the only thing left is the oil control valve , cam phaser or low oil pressure.

I changed the maf sensor, throttle body and no luck. Next step another oil change, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft magnet. Does the 2007 escalade have an oil control valve? Also I noticed I have an oil leak this may or may not be related. I will also switch back to an ac delco air filter from an oil K&N filter.

chevyracer
06-20-12, 03:20 PM
ya the oil control valve is the cam bolt

93669

chevyracer
06-20-12, 03:49 PM
the cam position sensor and actuator magnet is easy to replace

1) REMOVE intake tube

2) remove water pump belt

3 ) remove the belt tensioner on the water pump and the one next to the alternator

4) remove water pump held in with 6 10mm bolts you dont need to take the hoses off the pump i had
room to move it forward

5 ) cam actuator is held in with 3 10mm bolts and cam sensor 1 10mm bolt

the whole process took 1 hour to do

Rustico
07-10-12, 08:45 PM
Basically so far we have changed a cam position sensor which doesn't help anything a cmp actuator magnet with is cheap to fix but may not solve the problem (I am doing this tomorrow)....Next step would be to open the timing cover and change CMP Actuator Solenoid Valve (oil control valve) and the CMP actuator itself...

P0011
Conditions for Setting the DTC
Desired CMP 0-31 0-31 0-31
CMP Angle
Circuit Short to Ground Open Short to Voltage
Operating Conditions: Engine running above 900 RPM in park
Parameter Normal Range: 0-31
CMP Angle 0-31 0 0
CMP Variance
Circuit Short to Ground Open Short to Voltage
Operating Conditions: Engine running above 900 RPM in park
Parameter Normal Range: 0
CMP Variance 0-31 0-31 0-31
The ignition switch is in the Crank or Run position.
The system voltage is between 9-18 volts.
The CMP actuator is command ON.
DTC P0010 runs continuously when the above conditions are met.
DTC P0010, P0016, P0335, P0336, P0340, or P0341 is not set.
The engine is running.
The system voltage is between 9-18 volts.
The CMP actuator is enabled.
The power take off (PTO) is not active.
The rate of change in the camshaft position is less than 7.5 degrees for 3.35 seconds.


P0011
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
Conditions for Clearing the DTC

DTC P0010 and P0011 are Type B DTCs.
Diagnostic Aids
This test procedure requires that the vehicle battery has passed a load test and is completely
charged. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test .
Reference Information
Schematic Reference
Engine Controls Schematics
Connector End View Reference
Description and Operation
Camshaft Actuator System Description
Electrical Information Reference
The ECM detects resistance greater than 2 ohms on the low reference circuit.
The ECM detects that the CMP Angle position is more than 8 degrees difference than the
Desired CMP position.


P0011
Important: Incorrect engine oil viscosity, aftermarket engine oil additives, or engine oil that
overdue for changing, can greatly affect the performance of the camshaft actuator.
1. Ignition OFF, disconnect C112.
2. Test for less than 1 ohm of resistance between the low reference circuit ECM side, terminal E
and ground.
3. Remove the water pump from the engine. Refer to Water Pump Removal .
4. Inspect and test the remaining wire harness from C112 to the CMP solenoid for an open/high
resistance, or a short to ground.
Component Testing
Important: You must perform the Circuit/System Testing before proceeding with Component
Testing.
Static Test
Test for 5.9-6.9 ohms of resistance at 20C, or 68F between the solenoid control terminal 2 and
the low reference terminal 1 at the CMP actuator solenoid.
Dynamic Test
Important: Do not allow electrical current to flow through the CMP actuator solenoid for more
than 1-2 seconds, or damage to the solenoid may occur.
Point the CMP actuator solenoid vertically, towards a shop towel. Connect one end of a fused
jumper wire to the CMP actuator solenoid control circuit terminal 2 and 12 volts. Connect a second
jumper wire to the low reference circuit terminal 1 and momentarily connect to ground. The CMP
actuator solenoid should immediately extend.
Repair Instructions
 If the circuits test normal, replace the CMP actuator solenoid.
 If greater than 1 ohm, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the
circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
 If the circuit tests normal, perform the component testing for the CMP actuator solenoid.
 If the CMP solenoid and the circuit test normal, then refer to Camshaft Position Actuator
Magnet Cleaning and Inspection and Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve
Inspection


Dynamic Test
Important: Do not allow electrical current to flow through the CMP actuator solenoid for more
than 1-2 seconds, or damage to the solenoid may occur.
Point the CMP actuator solenoid vertically, towards a shop towel. Connect one end of a fused
jumper wire to the CMP actuator solenoid control circuit terminal 2 and 12 volts. Connect a second
jumper wire to the low reference circuit terminal 1 and momentarily connect to ground. The CMP
actuator solenoid should immediately extend.
Repair Instructions
 If the circuits test normal, replace the CMP actuator solenoid.
 If greater than 1 ohm, test the low reference circuit for an open/high resistance. If the
circuit tests normal, replace the ECM.
 If the circuit tests normal, perform the component testing for the CMP actuator solenoid.
 If the CMP solenoid and the circuit test normal, then refer to Camshaft Position Actuator
Magnet Cleaning and Inspection and Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve
Inspection .
 If the resistance is not with in the specified range, then replace the CMP actuator solenoid. Refer
to Camshaft Position Actuator Magnet Replacement .
 If the CMP actuator solenoid pintle does not extend, then replace the CMP actuator solenoid.
Refer to Camshaft Position Actuator Magnet Replacement .

FRISBEE
07-19-12, 02:47 PM
My 07' is at about 95k when this happened to me, but I was far from home on vacation in Niagara Falls NY, first got the CEL drove to autozone and they scanned my Truck and it came back as a rich 02. No problem I said to myself just a bad batch of Gas and headed to Our next town, after a few fill ups and now in Williamsburg Va. I got the Stabilitrack and Traction control lighting up on my dash so I stopped into a Cadillac Dealer nearby they scanned the truck again with the same codes....rich 02 he clears the codes and I say to myself "what are the odds of getting bad gas twice??" considering I was putting gas from good gas stations (BP, Shell, Exxon) So I head out finishing the tailend of our East Coast Vacation we get to Somewhere at the Georgia state line and on the Hiway the truck just looses all power and dies out on me!!!! by this time I'm thinking wow did I wipe out an 02 sensor??? I limp it to a gas station top the truck off and no problems till Dustin Beach Fla. and then in Roswell N.M. where I find another GM dealer the scan it and the code comes back P0011 Crank sensor and whatever codes follow, They don't have the sensor in stock and I proceed to call my Dealer in Albuquerque and tell him what happened and proceeds to tell me "oh yea we change those all the time at 100k" He also ask me if my oil level is ok because the level will also cause this problem. I tell him the oil is fine and start to ask him if he can look up what type of oil they installed before my trip because the Tech installed one of those static labels on the windshield and it read 3k miles earlier than my expected service. He looks it up and the bastards used conventional
oil instead of synthetic oil. So here I am back in New Mexico in Roswell three hours away Albuquerque just finished driving 5800 miles on 3000 mile oil.
I just changed the crank sensor and still have the stalling problem but no codes, Ill be changing the oil today and give an update.

FRISBEE
07-21-12, 09:30 AM
Drove the Caddy yesterday and still have the problems without the traction control light or CEL so no codes. Watching the scanner and only thing I can see is timing dropping when the truck dies out.Hmmmm

Rustico
07-21-12, 02:03 PM
I will probably take it in soon since it drives like a dream only this code p0011 pops up every 300 miles. The dealership needs to hook up a scanner and see what the problem is. It could besolved by a reprogram.

Cadillac Cust Svc
07-23-12, 08:51 AM
FRISBEE & Rustico, I'm looking forward to your updates, and I'm only an email away at Katie_Lucille@gmexpert.com if you need any further assistance along the way.

Best,

Katie
Cadillac Customer Service

FRISBEE
07-23-12, 10:30 AM
Just had the check engine light come back on and all 4 codes were rich o2, checked fuel pressure and it was waaayyy past 100 psi. One of three things now to check 1. fuel regulator 2. fuel pressure sensor 3. fuel pressure module cant figure out why sensor didn't kick out a code. Also wondering if its under an emissions warranty, guess I'll crack the book open and see.

FRISBEE
07-23-12, 10:39 AM
8/80 on Emissions.....never mind.

blkEsc
07-23-12, 11:53 AM
I am having almost the same problems. I am getting the p0011 code and my my oil pressure light is staying on constantly. I brought it to the dealer and they are telling me they believe I have a bad oil pump and have to do a engine tear down to diagnose the problem. There is no motor knock or anything it seems to run fine like your trucks. I don't get why with that code they have to tear the motor down. Plus I asked them if they tested the oil pressure and they said no these are the steps needed to take to diagnose the problem based on bulletins set by cadillac. Any ever hear of that before?? I will also post updates as the repairs go along so maybe it will help everyone else on here and I have 59,500 miles!!! Is this something that is random or something that could of been going on for awhile. I always done synthetic oil changes. I bought this truck last year and only put 5,000 miles on it since last April. I don't drive it much at all it basically sits.

FRISBEE
07-23-12, 06:38 PM
I just ordered a Delphi Fuel Pump assy. The only way you can get a regulator (sux) perfectly good running pump but its the only way to get it. Should be here Wednesday and hopefully I can install it same day. That p0011 code came up once along with the other codes p0615, p0175 & p0172
fuel pressure is out of control high and drops like a rock when off so I'm about 99% sure its the regulator. Got no help from local dealers or mechanics since it's a not so common problem with this truck or not willing to share their experiences.

blkEsc
07-23-12, 08:06 PM
After the dealer tore down the engine they are saying that the oil pump is bad and that they can't test the oil pressure accurately and that's why they haven't tested it. There is a bearing issue or something and there is oil starvation due to the screen in the oil pump being clogged and this is due to not performing oil changes. But there is not damage at all to the motor even with me driving it like that and this is what is the underlying cause to why the code p0011 and the traction control, stabilitrack cel is coming on. It makes even less sense to me now especially when there was no knocking or anything the engine ran perfect and there still is no damage after driving with it 20-30 mins.

FRISBEE
07-24-12, 12:52 PM
If its under warranty, i would request replacing the whole engine for sure. Once a bearing is bad its never the same.

FRISBEE
07-25-12, 01:58 PM
replaced the fuel pump module, pressure is back to normal and no codes. That fix it for me. Good luck blkEsc.

chevyracer
07-30-12, 11:48 AM
well my buddie took his Escalade into to Cadillac today, he said they couldn't figure it out they test the electrical part of it and said that was working they said they never seen this problem before and told him to bring it back tomorrow that they would have to call Gm tech line.

Rustico
07-30-12, 01:26 PM
Chevy Racer, do you only have the p0011 code coming up? The cam magnet replacement and 3 x 500 mile oil changes didnt work for me either.

chevyracer
07-30-12, 05:06 PM
yep just the p0011

chevyracer
07-31-12, 08:47 PM
well the verdict is in , GM told the dealer to replace the oil pump, oil pump screen, cam actuator and timing chain set

price quoted parts and labor $2675

Rustico
07-31-12, 08:55 PM
well the verdict is in , GM told the dealer to replace the oil pump, oil pump screen, cam actuator and timing chain set

price quoted parts and labor $2675

I'll live with it and just clear the code. After a few things add up in a few years I'll buy a crate motor for about $3500 or so and replace everything.

blkEsc
07-31-12, 10:02 PM
I picked up my truck after the dealer put it back together and had the same problem. Thy told me the truck was safe to drive and I can drive it to the other dealer and my motor blew. It's knocking like crazy and the cams are now shaved down from having 0 oil pressure. Now I am going to have to fight with the dealer to replace my motor etc. any ideas on how to go about this?

Ghostbusters
12-02-12, 12:21 PM
Good afternoon. I want to replace the valve.
Actuator came in a form of three parts with a spring.
Help please, as the instructions to install the valve?
(I am from Russia and I use Google translator.)

http://b3.imgsrc.ru/m/myroad/1/30649021lKb.jpg

http://b3.imgsrc.ru/m/myroad/4/30649024Teq.jpg

http://b3.imgsrc.ru/m/myroad/5/30649025CmU.jpg

Rustico
12-03-12, 04:13 PM
I'm still getting the code but it is about once every 1000 miles-- once it didn't happen for 2000 miles. It always activates around the same exit when getting off the freeway. Very odd.

cadmanchris
12-08-12, 02:26 PM
Sorry to say, but check the #2 cam bearing for scoring. That is the feed for the oil feed to the actuator. Hope this helps

Ghostbusters
07-14-13, 02:17 PM
Worn crankshaft and camshaft. To touch or change the engine for a new one!

sadesdad
07-29-13, 06:47 PM
I have a very similar issue with my 2007 Escalade.... Service Stabilitrak / Traction Control Message comes on intermittently and SOMETIMES my Check Engine Light will come on as well. I get the same '11' Code that's been spoken of an the Check Engine Light usually goes off by itself. And sometimes the Stabilitrak 'fixes' itself or after pressing the button numerous times, it will go off too. However, the past few times this has happened, I noticed my transmission seems to shift roughly when going from 2nd into 3rd gear. It's annoying, my mechanic told me not to sweat it. From what I've been reading, it sounds like a GM 'thing'

Cadillac Cust Svc
07-30-13, 11:24 AM
I have a very similar issue with my 2007 Escalade.... Service Stabilitrak / Traction Control Message comes on intermittently and SOMETIMES my Check Engine Light will come on as well. I get the same '11' Code that's been spoken of an the Check Engine Light usually goes off by itself. And sometimes the Stabilitrak 'fixes' itself or after pressing the button numerous times, it will go off too. However, the past few times this has happened, I noticed my transmission seems to shift roughly when going from 2nd into 3rd gear. It's annoying, my mechanic told me not to sweat it. From what I've been reading, it sounds like a GM 'thing'

Hello sadesdad,

I apologize for the intermittent issues you are experiencing. I understand how this can be annoying for you. If you would like to further discuss this I am more than happy to do so. I can be reached via private message. Be sure to include your VIN and current mileage in the message too!

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Care

Rob95066
08-31-13, 01:02 AM
I am now having the same issue with my 2007 Escalade, my service stabilitrack and check engine lights are going on and it is shifting gears a little hard.

But my story is longer. This is my second Escalade I have owned. I had a 2004 and bought my 2007 in late 2006. I bought it pretty much loaded with everything, it costs me close to $70,000.

When my car hit 100,000 miles, it's as if the internal computer told it to start shutting down. I have put thousands of dollars in repairs into it and it does not seem to stop. I have a list a mile long on what repairs I have had to do.

But it gets better! :)

To top it all off, the paint around the windows has peeled off, yes... Peeled off. The dashboard has cracked. I could go on and on, but I won't. I will just share this recent issue: my wife went to open the door the other day and the entire door handle just came off in her hand.

I have a garage in which it is stored most of the time when we are it driving it so it's not as if it sits in the Arizona desert.

I have been fortunate to have owned nice cars in my life. A few BMWs, Porsche and other GM cars and always was proud of my Escalade. But this one is embarrassing. None of my other cars have ever fallen apart like that. It's just a shame and disappointment.

Last week I needed to buy a truck and aside from a BMW or Porsche, I decided against GM and bought a 2013 F150.

My wife and I have been trying to decide if we should sell the Escalade and we are torn on what to do next. I just can't believe how far behind GM and Cadillac have gone with the quality of their cars. For $70,000 you just expect better. The Cadillac dealer we called about our peeling window trim said it would cost $1,800 and then flippantly said "that's what happens when you leave your car outside".

I have been a GM owner since I was 16, that's 33 years. This by far has been the biggest slap in the face.

Cadillac Cust Svc
08-31-13, 04:57 PM
I am now having the same issue with my 2007 Escalade, my service stabilitrack and check engine lights are going on and it is shifting gears a little hard.

But my story is longer. This is my second Escalade I have owned. I had a 2004 and bought my 2007 in late 2006. I bought it pretty much loaded with everything, it costs me close to $70,000.

When my car hit 100,000 miles, it's as if the internal computer told it to start shutting down. I have put thousands of dollars in repairs into it and it does not seem to stop. I have a list a mile long on what repairs I have had to do.

But it gets better! :)

To top it all off, the paint around the windows has peeled off, yes... Peeled off. The dashboard has cracked. I could go on and on, but I won't. I will just share this recent issue: my wife went to open the door the other day and the entire door handle just came off in her hand.

I have a garage in which it is stored most of the time when we are it driving it so it's not as if it sits in the Arizona desert.

I have been fortunate to have owned nice cars in my life. A few BMWs, Porsche and other GM cars and always was proud of my Escalade. But this one is embarrassing. None of my other cars have ever fallen apart like that. It's just a shame and disappointment.

Last week I needed to buy a truck and aside from a BMW or Porsche, I decided against GM and bought a 2013 F150.

My wife and I have been trying to decide if we should sell the Escalade and we are torn on what to do next. I just can't believe how far behind GM and Cadillac have gone with the quality of their cars. For $70,000 you just expect better. The Cadillac dealer we called about our peeling window trim said it would cost $1,800 and then flippantly said "that's what happens when you leave your car outside".

I have been a GM owner since I was 16, that's 33 years. This by far has been the biggest slap in the face.
Hello Rob95066,

I apologize that you have had issues with your Escalade since it passed 100,000 miles and that you have recently passed on the opportunity to purchase one of our vehicles. I hope that at one point we are able to earn your business again. If you would like to discuss your frustrations further in regards to your Escalade or your service at the dealership, please feel free to private message me. You can also reach out to us at socialmedia@gm.com. If you send an email, please be sure to include “ATTN GREG” in the subject line so it gets delivered to me. Thank you very much for your time.

Gregory W.
Cadillac Customer Care

Rob95066
10-10-13, 03:00 PM
OK, sorry for the delay but we have been out of town most of the past month on vacation. I will indeed send an email as per your suggestion in hopes that someone gets back to me.

Thank you for the speedy reply. I will update the group of my progress.

wrcf355
11-03-13, 03:19 PM
I have same issues however what I'm tracking down a possible issue or cause differs from all the posts I have read. Any and all suggestions and opinions on this are welcome as its a work in process.

The BCM located under drivers left foot seems to be the root of the problem. The black plug in the middle is the transition/traction/stabilitrak connection I assume but if anyone has a wiring diagram of the BCM please post it!
The black connector had 5 different wires that had loose contact points where the plug goes in the terminal. I tightened these because I can't find a replacement plug. The part number on that black plug doesn't pull up anywhere.
The results when I did this was no check engine, no codes, no issues and truck runs like a champ. But....it will do It again periodically once every few weeks so I unplug the black connector from the BCM, disconnect the neg battery cable, plug black connector back in, reconnect battery and I'm good to go with no issues.

I'm looking for help and answers to this, any thoughts, and a wiring diagram for the BCM.

ebelp
11-03-13, 09:10 PM
I have same issues however what I'm tracking down a possible issue or cause differs from all the posts I have read. Any and all suggestions and opinions on this are welcome as its a work in process.

The BCM located under drivers left foot seems to be the root of the problem. The black plug in the middle is the transition/traction/stabilitrak connection I assume but if anyone has a wiring diagram of the BCM please post it!
The black connector had 5 different wires that had loose contact points where the plug goes in the terminal. I tightened these because I can't find a replacement plug. The part number on that black plug doesn't pull up anywhere.
The results when I did this was no check engine, no codes, no issues and truck runs like a champ. But....it will do It again periodically once every few weeks so I unplug the black connector from the BCM, disconnect the neg battery cable, plug black connector back in, reconnect battery and I'm good to go with no issues.

I'm looking for help and answers to this, any thoughts, and a wiring diagram for the BCM.

Not to sound too skeptical, but I'm betting if you just unplugged the negative terminal from the battery without touching that bcm plug, you'd have the same results.

Our 2007 ESV just started having this issue at 125k (service stabilitrak, cel and rough shifting). Some of the replies in this thread worry me. It seems as if there are several possible causes and it's a huge trial and error process to fix it.

emmajones
11-04-13, 07:21 AM
Have 2008 ESV - milage 170, 000. Driving down the highway and the information - Stabilizer off, then service traction control and service stabilitrak. I pulled over and turned it off, waited thirty minutes and stareted it and was coming on and off. I am planning on taking it to the dealer today, what kind of work do I need to expect from them? The check engine light came on right after it started to happening. About how much hours of work will they be doing, if anybody knows?

Thanks.

Cadillac Cust Svc
11-04-13, 02:14 PM
Have 2008 ESV - milage 170, 000. Driving down the highway and the information - Stabilizer off, then service traction control and service stabilitrak. I pulled over and turned it off, waited thirty minutes and stareted it and was coming on and off. I am planning on taking it to the dealer today, what kind of work do I need to expect from them? The check engine light came on right after it started to happening. About how much hours of work will they be doing, if anybody knows?

Thanks.

Hello emmajones,

Welcome to Cadillac Owners! I am sorry you are experiencing vehicle concerns with your stabilitrak, service traction control and check engine light being illuminated. If you ever have any questions or would like our assistance while working with the dealer, please contact us via private message. We are here to assist!

Sincerely,

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Care

wrcf355
11-06-13, 01:44 PM
This seems to not be an isolated issue with higher mileage escalades and possibly other GM trucks/SUVs. And like others have said in this thread there is no clear cause, fix, etc.... That concerns me when we are all driving a $70k plus SUV.
The cam actuator seemed to be the cause but some of those who have done this at great expense have the warning lights reappear.

Has anyone just replaced the BCM module all together? Can we try to put together a list from cheapest to most expensive suggested solutions? Just a thought,

Rustico
11-07-13, 11:18 AM
The problem has gotten so bad that every 10 or 20 miles of driving the light turns on! The worst thing is that when the light is on the transmission CLUNKS really bad going from Park to Reverse to Drive.

These are the cheapest possibilities and I have done them with no luck

Cam position actuator magnet
Cam Shaft Sensor
Replaced throttle body.
Did quick 1,000 mile oil changes 5 times in a row (some people say the engine oil wasn't changed frequently enough leading to this problem but that is not true. I have always done 4,000 mile mobil 1 oil changes
New battery

emmajones
11-07-13, 02:32 PM
I am having similar problems with my 2008 esv. The two lights came on, Service stabilitrak and service traction control. The truck was slowed and stopped. After some time it started back with the sign but would move very slowly. Took to the dealer, they said it might be the steering wheel, they greesed and asked me to pick it up. The truck does run, but intermittently there is a high tune and seem to come and after some minutes it will come back to normal. They said that it might be from the transfer case, but they do not know. They want me to continue driving it until another sign comes on. I dont trust this one. Can ask I them to change the cram shaft?

new york city
11-07-13, 03:46 PM
These are the cheapest possibilities and I have done them with no luck

Cam position actuator magnet
Cam Shaft Sensor
Replaced throttle body.
Did quick 1,000 mile oil changes 5 times in a row (some people say the engine oil wasn't changed frequently enough leading to this problem but that is not true. I have always done 4,000 mile mobil 1 oil changes
New battery


When did you do this? & has the problem came back?

You also stated "The problem has gotten so bad that every 10 or 20 miles of driving the light turns on! The worst thing is that when the light is on the transmission CLUNKS really bad going from Park to Reverse to Drive."
That is because the tranny goes into protection mode. Mine did the exact same thing.

Does your "Park to Reverse to Drive" still clunk hard? Even after your temp fix?


PS:
This is what was done on mine, including a new oil pump & so far so good. No problems what so ever.
http://i.imgur.com/2xQukEC.jpg

Rustico
11-07-13, 04:55 PM
It only clunks hard when the light is on. When I turn the light off with my scan tool it is back to normal. So for $640 parts and labor they changed the sprocket , oil pump, actuator and timing chain?

How many miles do you have? I have 156k

new york city
11-07-13, 04:58 PM
It only clunks hard when the light is on. When I turn the light off with my scan tool it is back to normal. So for $640 parts and labor they changed the sprocket , oil pump, actuator and timing chain?

How many miles do you have? I have 156k

yes 640 but the oil pump was separate & was installed free. I have 130k


So you fixed all that & still have the issue? How long ago did you fix those parts you added ETC?

Cadillac Cust Svc
11-08-13, 08:31 AM
I am having similar problems with my 2008 esv. The two lights came on, Service stabilitrak and service traction control. The truck was slowed and stopped. After some time it started back with the sign but would move very slowly. Took to the dealer, they said it might be the steering wheel, they greesed and asked me to pick it up. The truck does run, but intermittently there is a high tune and seem to come and after some minutes it will come back to normal. They said that it might be from the transfer case, but they do not know. They want me to continue driving it until another sign comes on. I dont trust this one. Can ask I them to change the cram shaft?

Hello emmajones,

I understand your concern for this not being fixed at your last dealer visit. The technicians will not replace any parts on a vehicle until there is a specific code read or they see the signs with their own eyes and ears. They cannot fix a vehicle based on what they think could be the cause of a vehicle concern. If you would like to further discuss your situation, please send us a private message or email at socialmedia@gm.com. I am more than happy to assist and stay involved throughout this process.

Sincerely,

Laura M.
Cadillac Customer Care

new york city
11-13-13, 01:01 PM
Rustico any update?

Also, how long ago did you fix/replace those parts you stated?

Rustico
11-14-13, 06:53 AM
I fixed them about a year ago but it didn't fix anything. I think the secret to the fix Is the sprocket itself, actuator, and valve. If in only cost $640 I'm going to go in for a diagnosis

new york city
11-14-13, 09:06 AM
Are you in NYC @rustico?

Rustico
11-15-13, 08:49 AM
No in Nevada. This is a costly repair. There is something up with high miles 2007 escalades

Ghostbusters
11-26-13, 05:51 AM
Dear Sir, I wrote to you more than once. The reason the engine lights error - low oil pressure solenoid valve.
Ways of solving a few:
1. Replace chain, star valve
2. Replace the oil pump on the pump greater productivity
3. Turn off the system phase shifter, remove the movement phases in the control and tune the engine under a different mode of operation.

Oil pressure drops due to high wear and camshaft crankshaft!

Council often change the engine oil and use the expensive oil. I use MOTUL.
In rare cases, the engine oil will help the higher viscosity, thick oil.

07 ESV KC
11-30-13, 10:35 AM
I currently have a similar issue. The stabilitrak and traction control light comes on intermittent but the truck runs fine. The dealer replaced the BCM due to another issue earlier this year but this problem continues. I'm just ignoring them as everything seems to reset. It generally occurs when I'm accelerating under load and can occur every few minutes when I'm on the highway. I just don't want to spend all the money searching for the problem. My 07 ESV has 83k miles. If anyone has luck getting an accurate diagnosis, there are many people that will benefit.

new york city
11-30-13, 11:07 AM
I currently have a similar issue. The stabilitrak and traction control light comes on intermittent but the truck runs fine. The dealer replaced the BCM due to another issue earlier this year but this problem continues. I'm just ignoring them as everything seems to reset. It generally occurs when I'm accelerating under load and can occur every few minutes when I'm on the highway. I just don't want to spend all the money searching for the problem. My 07 ESV has 83k miles. If anyone has luck getting an accurate diagnosis, there are many people that will benefit.

Do you get a check engine light along with this? If not, I honestly wouldn't worry about it because from countless reading & researching, the service stability track/traction control off message seems to have to have too many solution options but not a direct fix. In the case when a check engine light comes on then you are more likely to know the exact issue.

07 ESV KC
11-30-13, 12:49 PM
I have only gotten a check engine light a few times. It seems to also reset itself after several trips. Since the truck runs fine, I have become complacent with all this. If it comes on again, I'll try to get the codes read before it goes back off. This all seems to be related to a larger electrical issue in my case. The car has shut itself completely off in some cases and 5 minutes later or with a jiggle of the negative cable it will start back up. Dealer has tried several "fixes" but there always seems to be a nagging case of electrical bugs on a somewhat regular basis. I know I'm not alone with the threads in 07 and 08 Escalades. I was thinking of looking newer as they may have less issues or maybe it's just not as communicated as the 09s and 10s are still under warranty.

madbird1977
01-13-14, 05:24 PM
Count me in as having the same issue...working with extended warranty company to have the actuator replaced, had the sensor replaced but no luck. I still have the check engine light and StabilityTrak/Tract Control service warning flashing. I can tell the engine is not working like before...the tech said the actuator is failing/worn out???? Does that make sense? I have 110k on the Escalade and its a 2007 model which it appears happens very frequently. Is there any formal documentation from GM on this or any proven issues that have been noted by insurance/recalls. I have checked many sites and nothing offiical...

What a pain, very disappointed in the quality of this vehicle.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Cadillac Cust Svc
01-15-14, 01:54 PM
Count me in as having the same issue...working with extended warranty company to have the actuator replaced, had the sensor replaced but no luck. I still have the check engine light and StabilityTrak/Tract Control service warning flashing. I can tell the engine is not working like before...the tech said the actuator is failing/worn out???? Does that make sense? I have 110k on the Escalade and its a 2007 model which it appears happens very frequently. Is there any formal documentation from GM on this or any proven issues that have been noted by insurance/recalls. I have checked many sites and nothing offiical...

What a pain, very disappointed in the quality of this vehicle.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Hello madbird1977,

I apologize that you are experiencing this concern as well with your Escalade. I would be more than happy to look into if there are any open recalls or special coverages on your vehicle. Please feel free to private message me with your name, contact info, VIN, mileage, dealership you have been working with. I hope to hear from you soon.

Gregory W.
Cadillac Customer Care

neelfryer
01-18-14, 02:07 PM
i'm 400 miles from home on a ski trip and the service stabilitrak light came on and the car died in my driveway

it also said "engine reducing power"

its a 2007 esv

just had it towed to a 76 service station in town -- spoke to the dude there who was knowledgeable

he says that yukon and tahoes and escalades -- get that stabilitrak for a lot of reasons

and then the car will start killing the engine if there is many banners coming up

it's kind of a failsafe for the car

when i just went down it started and said "add oil"

so i am getting a series of banners

i need to get it to a dealership

they are hundreds of miles form me -- i;m hoping to add oil -- clear the banners and drive it 400 miles home

to a dealership

wish me luck

07 ESV KC
01-18-14, 02:56 PM
Generally, after its sits a moment, it will go awhile before it all starts up again. Good luck with your trip and let us know how the diagnosis works out.

neelfryer
01-18-14, 11:41 PM
update

so the local guy towed the cargo a local 76 station

where the guy wiped all the built up trouble banner (stabilitrak warnings etc.)

he also added a qt of oil as he did say it was low

he let it sit a while and drove it

he let it sit a while and drove it again

he then drove it to me and i drove him back

we have YET to have any trouble banners return

YET

the car is running smoothly

too smoothly perhaps

i just hope to get it home to LA …

stand by

----------

on a side note

i just spent 6k

replacing the entire interior

seats -- carpet (they used chocolate colored benz carpet)

it is a completely brand new escalade inside

i build classic custom cars as a hobby so i had my interior guy do this truck

i love this escalade

i really hope i can get a few more years out of it

i really don't want to be chasing ghosts in the machine -- with constant banners and warnings and the car shutting down

----------


Generally, after its sits a moment, it will go awhile before it all starts up again. Good luck with your trip and let us know how the diagnosis works out.

thanks KC

i bought this truck with 38k miles on it

and it now has 108

i do love it -- but i don't love reading about all of the issues with the phantom "stabilitrak" banners

i spoke to an LA based dealer service tech today

who when i told him the problem and that it had said "service stabilitrak" -- he said "that could be anything …could be a wheel sensor…"

it did not inspire a lot of confidence

Cadillac Cust Svc
01-19-14, 08:10 PM
Safe travels back to LA, neelfryer! Thanks for the updates - keep them coming! And if you need anything, don't hesitate to contact us via private message.

Sarah (Assisting Greg and Laura)
Cadillac Customer Care

neelfryer
01-21-14, 12:48 PM
update

the car started perfectly

and ran fine

i stopped and started twice along the way -- meaning stopped for gas etc.

and i made it to casa de cadillac with no issues

so now the service part of the story

i just received a call form my service tech -- who i know for many years as i have had this car and a sedan

he says i need to replace the throttle body -- parts and labor -- $780 -- well i will just put his e-mail in this post

1.replace throttle body $780, 2). rear brakes worn $460 additional $263 if
park brake shoes need replacing, 3) engine belts $243, 4) power steering
hose $386, 5) leaking right side engine mount $710, 6) rear shocks $1400, 7)
spark plugs and wires by miles $772, 8) center console lid $730


now -- to be fair i asked about the stuck door on my center console so that's why he quoted me a replacement part as they no longer make the one i have -- so forget that as even a consideration for a repair

but the rest of these things -- a local service shop can do and do much cheaper

shocks are 1400? -- really ?!

plugs and wires 772? really?

power steering hose and the engine belts he's talking about are the AC belt and …i can't remember the other one

but they sound majorly pricey

any advice ? -- just had the front brakes done -- cheap -- surely not 460

help?

i think the engine mount suggestion is the one that always gets me -- it seems like i'm always being sold engine mounts by a car dealership repair center

new york city
01-21-14, 04:29 PM
update

the car started perfectly

and ran fine

i stopped and started twice along the way -- meaning stopped for gas etc.

and i made it to casa de cadillac with no issues

so now the service part of the story

i just received a call form my service tech -- who i know for many years as i have had this car and a sedan

he says i need to replace the throttle body -- parts and labor -- $780 -- well i will just put his e-mail in this post

1.replace throttle body $780, 2). rear brakes worn $460 additional $263 if
park brake shoes need replacing, 3) engine belts $243, 4) power steering
hose $386, 5) leaking right side engine mount $710, 6) rear shocks $1400, 7)
spark plugs and wires by miles $772, 8) center console lid $730


now -- to be fair i asked about the stuck door on my center console so that's why he quoted me a replacement part as they no longer make the one i have -- so forget that as even a consideration for a repair

but the rest of these things -- a local service shop can do and do much cheaper

shocks are 1400? -- really ?!

plugs and wires 772? really?

power steering hose and the engine belts he's talking about are the AC belt and …i can't remember the other one

but they sound majorly pricey

any advice ? -- just had the front brakes done -- cheap -- surely not 460

help?

i think the engine mount suggestion is the one that always gets me -- it seems like i'm always being sold engine mounts by a car dealership repair center

Looks like prices for a rolls Royce. That dude is insane.

07 ESV KC
01-21-14, 09:13 PM
You can do a lot yourself or find a cheaper shop. I would check on the engine mount to see if its still holding or not. If the engine rises more than an inch or so, it should be replaced as it can start damaging other stuff.....that's what I read. The dealer told me that mine was bad and I was thinking just let it ride but when I watched the motor tip to the side while I power braked the truck, it was clearly bad. I think that one cost 600 and I'm not sure I'd take that on myself. I replaced the brake pads in a couple of hours, all 4 wheels. As for the other stuff, not sure how much work is involved but the is sure enough help in the forum and in you tube to make an educated decision for yourself. In my opinion, based on experience with the problem you initially described with the Escalade losing power, none of these repairs will do anything for you in that. I'd be curious to know how the dealer felt about your initial problem? Did they have any ideas?

neelfryer
01-22-14, 11:44 AM
as for the original problem … they believe that replacing the throttle body is gonna be the solution

i am hopeful but wary

i have read too much in this thread that makes me think that i will be chasing ghosts in my machine for a while

the total of the suggested repairs was 5k

i approved 2500 worth of stuff including the throttle body and the engine mount, rear brakes and belts and hoses (brakes, hoses and belts) i could have have had my shop do but i just figured it's there and i want it done and i need the car back etc.

----------

the car has 108k miles on it and there are a lot of original parts on the truck so i'm ok with replacing some stuff -- i just did the front brakes 3 weeks ago so it makes sense to do the rears -- i'd like to get 3 more years out of this truck and then maybe send it to a property we have in upstate NY where it would be under light duty

i'm hoping that this 2500 carries me for a looooong time with only maintenance to do

but this thread has me freaked

i really think that from my experience … when the 2007 gets a series of warnings and error codes it just decides to either reduce power (you can't drive faster than 10 miles an hour)

or it won't let the car start -- it just overrides the ignition

if you let the car sit for an hour -- it will start

if you plug it in to a computer and wipe the warnings and error codes it drives fine … for a while … then does the same

i guess it's a good system -- but ….

07 ESV KC
01-22-14, 08:53 PM
I feel you. I guess it's like a good marriage......for better, for worse. Sometimes you can't understand you just have to accept or you'll drive yourself crazy.

neelfryer
01-24-14, 09:11 PM
I feel you. I guess it's like a good marriage......for better, for worse. Sometimes you can't understand you just have to accept or you'll drive yourself crazy.

lol -- exactly brother -- exactly

wesyder
01-24-14, 10:33 PM
lol -- exactly brother -- exactlyi work in LA and live in eastvale if you ever need help, questions or opinions about repairs

SpyShops NY
01-25-14, 10:57 PM
The throttle body gives off a check engine light, I had the problem and I replaced it myself took about 40miles to relearn but made my truck drives perfect. I agree with you 3 yrs because the new escalade comes out in 2015 and I want to wait a year for bugs and the end of the year deal with 0 APR so Dec or Jan of 2016-2017 also I can get one with 10k miles or less for a better deal. I just spent 10k renewing mines as well I have 115k now. I did shocks all, seats front leather covers, wood trims all, cross drilled rotors and pads, master cylinder, tie rods, new rims and tires, fuel injectors, new mats, rear door hatch motor, center console lid, engine mount, tune up, pulleys and belt, new nav radio and update 2013, LED upgrade all over, heated windshield washer fluid, driver door regulator, passenger door lock kit, air bag sensor, canister and purge valve, drivers side door trim, isimple for Bluetooth audio and phone. Most of it was covered under my new warranty I paid for from 107k to 207k costed me 2,300 but it is the best deal and I have warranty for another 85k miles. I am now in love with my truck again better than new. I figured since under warranty and paid off so why get the same truck again. When spring comes I will repaint the bumpers. I also put headrest DVD players from the platinum looks the same and works perfect.

Well I got carried away there but long story short its not the throttle body its something more serious, I would try the cruise control switch which is 15$ and can set off what you described and sometimes it works and sometimes not so this can drive you crazy and major expense. Is your cruise control working sometimes.

To be quite honest I don't like the new one but I have to see in person, those back lights looks like a Volvo or CRV disgusting but I have to see in person.

07 ESV KC
01-26-14, 10:02 PM
Where's the cruise control switch located and is it easy to replace? I cleaned the throttle body and MAF wires today. Cleared all the codes. It currently idles high. I'm hoping it will relearn the idle but no stabilitrak or traction control warnings today.

SpyShops NY
01-26-14, 11:22 PM
the switch is connected to the brake pedal.

EJENKINS2
01-31-14, 10:28 AM
Good Day Everyone. Has anyone solved the Stabilitrack issue? I get it every now and then with no check engine light and its driving me crazy. I've got several big trips schedule over the next couple of months and I'm trying to decide whether or not I should ditch it now for something cheaper (Ford Expedition EL) or whether the storm.

2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV 110,023 miles).

Punmax
01-31-14, 08:33 PM
Good Day Everyone. Has anyone solved the Stabilitrack issue? I get it every now and then with no check engine light and its driving me crazy. I've got several big trips schedule over the next couple of months and I'm trying to decide whether or not I should ditch it now for something cheaper (Ford Expedition EL) or whether the storm.

2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV 110,023 miles).

99% of the time there will be nothing wrong with your Stabilitrak/Traction control. That message gets triggered when the computer senses something wrong with the engine/electrical system (IIRC). Have you performed any maintenance?

SpyShops NY
01-31-14, 09:16 PM
Is your cruise control working

07 ESV KC
01-31-14, 11:15 PM
Haven't checked the switch yet. I did check the codes and got a throttle position sensor. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor...took less than an hour...cleared the codes and haven't seen the stabilitrak or traction control messages all week. Took a few days for the idle to settle down but it seems to have done well this week. See if it lasts!! I will probably wait for another warm day to check out the cruise switch.

SpyShops NY
01-31-14, 11:34 PM
the way to know if your cruise control works if it does than your fine, I guess in 07 the throttle body can set that off, I have a 08 and mines said check engine not service track/stabil. Lets wait and see. Also mines says when the fuel cap is not tight or broken to tighten fuel cap and others sets off the check engine light. I bought a new cap today because mines said to tighten fuel cap when it was tight twice this week.

07 ESV KC
02-01-14, 01:31 AM
My cruise doesn't work and neither does my steering wheel heater. Not sure if the cruise switch controls all that but I'll check it out in warmer weather. Never had the gas cap issue but have heard others say that. Finicky trucks.

SpyShops NY
02-01-14, 01:38 AM
Its definitely the switch that is connected to the brake pedal, I got it for 12$ on amazon and installed it in 10 mins but this will cause your issue, about the heated steering wheel that's different

mello_driver
02-01-14, 08:13 AM
Spy shop can you put the link up to that I have the same problem as we'll I'm a private driver I don't need lights popping up while with a client

EJENKINS2
02-07-14, 07:20 PM
Thanks Punmax. I haven't had any type of maintenance procedures done. Outside of having a very small oil leak (oil pan gasket), and my TPMS going from only 2 tires registering to 0 tires registering, Its still kicking with 110K miles.

easanchez22
04-10-14, 05:42 AM
2007 ESCALADE ESV 180,000 MILES
Has anyone figured out why the p0011 code and service stability trac appears? I have had this problem for a few months already , the weird thing is that it didnt appear until I took it to a well known engine shop in the area to get the engine rebuild only because the engine has giving a little bit of compression and the mechanic said it was only a matter of time for the engine to go bad...so I took it to get engine completely rebuilt and when I get it after a few hours of driving it the stability trac came on and then the check engine light with code p0011 ... the shop has tried everything and took it to the dealership and all they said was that there was something wrong the timing area of the engine...what throws me off is that if I disconnect the battery it clears the lights and suv runs perfectly but as soon as the check engine light turns on it starts hesitating a little.... already tried changing all the sensors and wiring having to do with camshaft , and shop already took apart engine again and this keeps happening.....PLEASE ..... ANY SUGGESTIONS ....I ALREADY HAVE ATLEAST 3500 INVESTED INTO THIS ENGINE PROBLEM... COULD IT BE THE ECM OR THROTTLE BODY????? ANYTHING WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

LeeMajors
04-10-14, 08:49 AM
The first time someone has this happen, the car suddenly goes into protection limp mode and won't accelerate going through an intersection and they have an accident, there's going to be a lawsuit to GM with a well-documented problem across an entire fleet of vehicles. I'm surprised GM hasn't figured this out yet.

There appear to be all SORTS of things that produce this error, but most of them seem linked to oil pressure being low through that valve.

If your air/fuel mixture gets lean, it'll throw that code (which is what it was designed for to begin with), and a replacement of your throttle body usually fixes it.

If it's an oil valve problem, replacing the entire valve assembly as mentioned earlier, the whole dang thing, not just the magnet, usually clears the error.

If it's TRULY a timing problem, your engine wouldn't EVER run right, it wouldn't just be an intermittent problem. Even one tooth off on the timing chain and this car probably wouldn't run at all, or certainly wouldn't run right.

If it's an oil PRESSURE problem, which is likely where the problem REALLY lies, you need to find out where the pressure is getting low at. If you just had your engine rebuilt, go to another independent dealer with a Tech II or another advanced scanning tool that can monitor oil pressure and get these readings:

Oil pressure Cold startup
Oil pressure warm idle
Oil pressure warm driving over a 10 minute period AT HIGHWAY SPEED, then another 10 minutes in stop and go traffic 35-40 mph.
Oil pressure when done with your warm test drive after 10 minutes parked and idling that whole time.

I would do this FIRST before any other dealer troubleshooting, no matter WHAT they recommend. Oil pressure problems are the #1 cause of premature engine damage.

If the value is getting below the Escalade 6.2L norms, you have a blockage somewhere. There's two oil pressure sensors on your car, both by screens, one in the rear of the intake (underneath the small thimble-size oil screen, $3 for the oil screen, $65 for the sensor, plus new intake gaskets), one at oil pump. I don't know if there's a way to discern the difference of which pressure sensor sends the readings your scanner will pick up.

If it sets the code after idling and your idle oil pressure gets low when warm and sitting, you want to make sure when they did the rebuild they replaced the negative pressure relief valve inside the oil pan, about half the length of your thumb, allows air into the oil pan as oil comes out, preventing a vacuum.

When doing a rebuild on these vehicles, not only do you need a new oil pump, but I'd recommend an oil screen and pickup tube assembly, that negative pressure relief valve, intake oil screen, and both oil pressure sensors to be safe.

If you're not getting good oil pressure to that timing control valve, it won't be able to move as commanded, and that's what sets the code if it's oil pressure related.

Too many things in my opinion to set one code, the dealer has to go on an easter egg hunt, but I'd check your oil pressure as above as a first measure. If the camshaft is robbed of oil (upper intake oil screen gets clogged - known issue), it will start to wear prematurely and that will be evidenced by changing your oil, light stays out for a while then comes back on but goes away after changing your oil for 200-30 miles. Have your filter cut open and inspect for gummy grey bearing material.

Mine is intermittent. It will go out by itself for 10-15 miles then come back on for no apparent reason for the next 30-40 miles. Been chasing it for a while. It puts my tranny into protection shifting mode (hard shifts) but otherwise drives fine. For now.

GM, are you listening? Want a new Cobalt issue? I suggest you find a better way to fix this.