: WOT problem and P0300 - 2000 Eldorado



ELDO GUY
04-24-12, 03:16 PM
I have a 2000 ELDO esc with about 68k. owned the car since new and have kept up with all the maintenance. This car has never given me any problems till now. Recently I was on a trip and about 200 miles into it the trip the misfire light started to flash , I was cruising at 75 to 80 mph. I slowed down to get over to the right lane and by the time I got there ther light went off, so I took it easy for a while . Twenty miles later same thing . I got to my destination checked as much as I could everthing looked ok and the car did not throw any codes or had any stored codes (had my scanner with me ). During the week I drove around with a mix of highway and rual driving no problems . A week later back on the road about 90 miles into the trip here we go again flashing light. The rest of the trip the light was going of and on, with no real interval schedule
It seemed to be ok if I kept it at about 65 mph but that was no for sure cure . I got mad and started jamming the pedal down and it finally threw a p0300 (Random misfire). back at home in traffic and cruzin around car runs great . Sometimes when WOT from a dead start no problems . On highway when I WOT to pass the misfire light goes on but it quickly goes out . Any Ideas on this ? I got a trip comming up in about a month and I dont want to have any problems on the road. Sorry this is so long but these are the facts . Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Submariner409
04-24-12, 04:32 PM
Use the car's built in code reader/scanner system - it may show a history code that some handhelds won't.

The sticky post ^^^ "How to pull codes". Use the directions for the OBD-II system in your 2000 (and later FWD) drivetrain. After you erite down all codes found, and whether each is Current or History, return to the sticky and open thelink with "obd2" in the address. This will take you to a Master Index of all P,B,C, and U code definitions. Write it all down and post it all here.

FWIW, when the SES light flashes that's an indication of severe misfire and you run a very real risk of killing the catalytic converter from dumping raw fuel.

Have you checked the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) for a leaky diaphragm ? Under the beauty cover, rear driver's end of the fuel rail. Carefully pull the vacuum line connector off the nipple - any raw gas in there or in the line? If so, that's a prime suspect. Otherwise, you're in the ignition or vacuum leak diagnosis mode..............

ELDO GUY
04-24-12, 05:06 PM
Thanks !!! Im at work now but I will begin to look at this when I get home this evening . Ill report later .

Submariner409
04-24-12, 07:40 PM
Thanks !!! Im at work now but I will begin to look at this when I get home this evening . Ill report later .

Good..........Keep it all in this thread so we don't bounce around the Forum.

If you get a break, pop a brew (at work ????) and go to Discussions, Item Specific; Cadillac Tech Tips and wade through as many pages as you can, looking for threads discussing "missing", "surging', "bucking'.......stuff like that: What you're after is intermittent codes that cause misfires and messages to appear.

Ranger
04-24-12, 10:02 PM
My guess is you are due for a set of plugs (A/C Delco 41-987). If that doesn't help, then it's probably a bad coil. The coils are in the ignition cassettes set into each of the cam covers. You'd have to determine which bank and then replace THAT cassette. The coils are not serviceable individually.

ELDO GUY
04-24-12, 11:37 PM
Got some update Info. I checked the FPR with a vacum tool and it held vacum .No evidence of gas either so I think Im good there . As far as retreiving codes from the cars system I think the Eldos buttons are different . The Info button has skip printed in yellow above it and the button only moves in and out the next button says info reset with (no) in yellow above it and the third button says trip reset with a yellow (yes)above it .The only information I get is by holding down the info reset button and info reset button at the same time Is (monitiored systems ok).
I did leave some important info out in the inital post because it was getting long. The front coil cassette was replaced new about a year ago #4 was bad also replaced that plug at the same time with the proper ac delco plug . A few months ago replaced the rear cassette #5 was bad .I cheaped out and got a bone yard replacement that was about 10 years old and replaced the #5 plug with the proper ac delco plug. When I replaced the plugs they still looked good. Do the plugs need to be replaced before the 100k Tune Up . Any history on the life span of those cassete coils? Thanks for the help and Ideas . Beat me if necessary for cheaping out on that last cassette.

Ranger
04-24-12, 11:46 PM
Ignition cassettes are generally pretty reliable. I would not hesitate to use a junk yard cassette. Especially for that price.

Unless a plug is misfiring it does not need replacing. Many times you can go well beyond 100K and many members have.

As for the codes, I know the Eldo's did not get a lot of the upgrades since it was slated for extinction. I wonder if it might possibly still use the old Pre '98 Seville method as posted by N*caddy in this link. Scroll down to find it.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-seville-cadillac-eldorado-forum/138258-how-pull-codes-dtcs.html

ELDO GUY
04-25-12, 11:32 AM
I will look in to that . My 82 and 85 eldos had that capability and it worked well. Thanks for the info

Aztec ETC ECS
04-25-12, 10:38 PM
If you're not getting a specific cylinder code, make sure the intake/airbox clamps are tight & look for cracks in the plastic by the thottle body.
If you do need a new coil, http://www.amazon.com/Cadillac-Eldorado-Oldsmobile-Ignition-GM1104075/dp/B0064J1ZT6
Cheapest I've seen.

ELDO GUY
04-26-12, 12:57 PM
Thanks for the ideas. Last night I tightened the clamp.I think it was ok but gave it a little extra turn anyway. I also did the spray test and did not notice any rpm increase. I checked the Bolts on the plastic manifold and found a few to be a little on the lose side, not horrible but not as tight as the others. I also revisited my coil repairs and checked the connections to the ICM. and cleaned them with contact spray . Could a faulty ICM cause a issue like this ? If possible could someone explain to me the function of this part . I know it probably directs the current to the proper spark plug but does it do any thing more than that and its it able to be tested ? I went to test last night but it was raining here so I turned of the traction control to do a coulpe of WOTs. The tranny didnt not like that and the service transmission appeared in the DIC message and started to act funny so I Quit for the day .Thank God the message went away it appears that Trans is OK today ! Thanks for the continued help. This is a great place to be if your a Caddy guy.

Ranger
04-26-12, 03:40 PM
Could a faulty ICM cause a issue like this ? If possible could someone explain to me the function of this part .
Check the ICM sticky near the top of this forum. While it is for the pre-2000, I suspect it works the same on the post 2000's.

RippyPartsDept
04-26-12, 05:11 PM
yes, the eldo would be using the 99 and older deville dash or the 97 and older seville dash

i have that same configuration ... holding down the red (warmer) button and the off button on the hvac panel will get you into diagnostics

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and i'd replace the plugs if you're anywhere near 100,000 miles (use only the acdelco oems ... ranger posted the part number in post #5)

if you're still having problems then start looking at the coils packs (cassettes)

ELDO GUY
04-27-12, 10:43 AM
On my car their is no red button for the heat . The hvac is turned on by pushing in a knob. To increase the heat the knob is turned and the led numbers change up or down in relation to the direction the knob is turned or you can change it from the controls on the steering wheel ! Tx.

Aztec ETC ECS
04-27-12, 10:58 AM
To get into yours, hold the "PAS^" & "OFF" between "mode" & "AC".

ELDO GUY
04-27-12, 11:28 AM
COOl ! Tx I knew there would be some way. With so many buttons many combos are possible. Just out of curisoity is the procedure listed in the FSM . It was in my 82 and 85 FSM's but i dont think I saw it in my 2000. but then there are about 700 more pages in the 2000 so i might have missed it !

Ranger
04-27-12, 12:08 PM
I think it is in there somewhere.

RippyPartsDept
04-27-12, 03:27 PM
ah, you have the ETC model without the digital dash (with gauges)

ELDO GUY
04-27-12, 06:26 PM
Took a sneak out to the car during work . Axtec Tx. for the keys to the Kingdom. Yikes ! What is all this stuff. P0731 I sure this was the results me trying to do WOTs and turning off the traction control while I was still moving. Not recommended ! U1152, B1327,B1771 U1255, U1000,B2119. Can this info be found in the FSM cause Im still at work for awhile. All was stored in history. When the codes stopped spitting out it stopped at PCM? What would the next action to be taken from this point. Also can I remove these codes some how? Tx.

RippyPartsDept
04-27-12, 06:41 PM
first take a step back and breathe... lots of codes is common... what you need to do is figure out what they all meanin the sticky thread there's a link to the obd1 and obd2 code definitions ... (your car is obviously obd2 so use that link)also note which codes are current and which are history ... there will be a C or an H at the end of the codes to designate this aspectthen come back and post up the codes (noting history or current) AND their definitions then we'll be getting somewheregood luck

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remember the easiest way to exit diagnostics is to just turn the key back to off and take it out of the ignition

Ranger
04-27-12, 10:20 PM
Also can I remove these codes some how?
Yes, the DTC sticky Rippy mentione will explain it, but if they are current, they will return as soon as the failure is detected again.

Aztec ETC ECS
04-28-12, 11:06 AM
P0731- Incorrect 1st gear ratio. Could be a bad sensor or a slipping trans. Good news is no misfire codes. B1327 is a low voltage code which could cause your other problems.
To clear PCM codes, go into Diag mode, press "FAN DOWN" to display "PCM?". Press "FAN UP". Press "FAN DOWN" to show "PCM CLEAR CODES". Then press "FAN UP". PCM codes cleared. The PCM codes are the only ones that will put the light on.
Recirc button will get you out of diag without turning key off.

ELDO GUY
04-28-12, 04:27 PM
Thanks for the further info . Did some Wot testing to day . Went on the highway on the way to costco no problem . On the way back did a few more WOTS then ,flashing light, pulled off and left iginiton and pulled codes nothing. light went off. went a mile or so further then flashing light again. I was of hwy by now so i did codes as I was driving . NOW I gOT A p0300 CURRENT . So at least there something. This problem seemes to arrise during extended HWY especially in the over 65 mph and up driving and WOT or passing situations, around town I good. . Anybody got ideas for a strating point . Ill check that voltage thing later on today. just changed the serpetine belt last week so that could be a carry over issue .The belt was the orginal.

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Forgot . CEL is not on . only stored in current mode. TX

Submariner409
04-28-12, 05:53 PM
P0300 C - Misfire detected. (The address for "obd2" in the code pull sticky. Master Index)

How old/miles are your spark plugs ?? ACDelco #41-987 plugs. Maybe a set of boots.

Click on my username, open the profile. 2 albums in the left column, 6 pages of your engine and parts and procedures - most annotated. You're gonna love changing the plugs............also, check your fuel injector electrical connectors and all the intake duct clamps at and after the MAF - one loose clamp will set codes and cause rough idle/stumble.

Aztec ETC ECS
04-28-12, 06:16 PM
This just in! Same thing happened to my car today. Blinking light, P0300 with NO MISS. Took a while and a few clearings but finally threw a P0340, CAM SENSOR. It's on the front of the rear head. Damn near need boneless hands to change it. It's good now.
Try it only if you're not feeling a miss.
I guess it could also lead to the P0731 that you had too.

ELDO GUY
04-28-12, 08:40 PM
Ill answer both you and sub here . Plugs are orginal except for # 4 and #5 that I changed out when I did the coil packs . Plugs with 68k miles. Replaced plugs with correct A-C plugs although orginal plugs in car were not AC. They were denso 12561446 the is also another# on the plug pt16epr-c13. I bought this car new so no one should of changed these they look just like the A-C s.
Aztec HMMMMMMM ! A couple of months previous to this miss thing I got the P0340 a few times but It went away. I attributed to the fact that I took a trip and forgot to put the oil filler cap on and was really driving hard and oil was thrown all over the engine . I cleaned every thing up and it went away. I have a miss though but it is not present all the time just when get the flashing light.

Aztec ETC ECS
04-28-12, 09:32 PM
That's it. You have an intermittently shorting Cam sensor. As long as you're not feeling a miss, that is. It is a ball buster to change. Maybe easier with hoses removed. I snuck mine out & in. This was the first one I had to change in a Cadi. Good luck!

If you had a bad coil or plug, you should be getting a specific cylinder code.

Submariner409
04-29-12, 10:52 AM
. Plugs are orginal except for # 4 and #5 that I changed out when I did the coil packs . Plugs with 68k miles. Replaced plugs with correct A-C plugs although orginal plugs in car were not AC. They were DENSO 12561446 the is also another# on the plug pt16epr-c13.

The original plugs in most of these engines were DENSO - the new "AC Delco" plugs are made in Japan by DENSO - look at the box. Somewhere along the line - maybe 2002 or 2003 - the plugs started to be installed with the new contract AC marking system. My 2002 owner's manual still listed the DENSO plug number.

FWIW, when you get the steady SES light you have some occasional engine miss or emissions problem - when the light begins flashing you have a reoccurring or steady miss and you run the real chance of cooking the catalytic converter by dumping excess raw fuel into it.

Just for grins, also test the FPR while you're in there changing the CMP.

ELDO GUY
04-29-12, 11:16 AM
So consensus is to change the cmp . How long did that take ! Ill look in the fsm for the procedure and exact location. Ive heard this is pretty ugly and involves lots of swearing . Any recommended brand to use for this . I did check the fpr with a vacum checker and it did hold pressure. Tx.

ELDO GUY
04-29-12, 12:23 PM
Ok guys , Two more questions . Where is the CMP. I'm looking on the passenger side by all the heater hoses on the block, on width side . And when I find it . How do I attack this thing. from top or bottom ? I looked in the FSM but its not real informative TX.

Aztec ETC ECS
04-29-12, 12:52 PM
It is on the front of the rear head, right where you're looking. Below the hoses. Tough to see, even harder to change. It took me about a half hour from the top using a 1/4" air ratchet, a short 10mm socket and a couple sets of long needle nose pliers. I cut a small piece of the new shield off and used a shorter bolt with a "starter" point on it to make it easier. There's really no good way to talk you through it. I've been workin' on cars for about 30 years and it gave me a hard time. It's a three, small, boneless handed job.

I just got one from my parts store that I deal with everyday.

Ranger
04-29-12, 01:25 PM
#236

http://www.genmotorinfo.com/images/383517752/218418241.png

Submariner409
04-29-12, 03:35 PM
Ok guys , Two more questions . Where is the CMP. Im looking on the passenger side by all the heater hoses on the block, on width side . And when I find it . How do I attack this thing. from top or bottom ? I looked in the FSM but its not real informative TX.

Post #23, last sentence. Diagrams and illustrations.

Small hands and good light from just behind/below the P/S pump area. 10mm socket.

ELDO GUY
04-30-12, 11:22 AM
Found It ! This is gonna be nasty. Im looking for a 6 year old with strong hands . Im going to order the part . Looks like ill be busy this week and wont have time to do this till next Sunday. I report back when I get this completed . Thanks for every ones help with this one. I really was getting frustrated with this and was running out of ideas.

ELDO GUY
05-01-12, 11:13 AM
HEY AZTEC ! after reviewing the situation, just a few more questions . How long were those needle nose pliers and after you removed the sensor how did you remove the connector ? It looks like you might be able to fish that thing up to the top once its removed from the engine. sorry for all the questions but I gotta do this fast on Saturday cause I got a wedding. TX. ELDOGUY

Aztec ETC ECS
05-01-12, 02:11 PM
Pliers were LLOONNGG. Took the sensor out first, pulled it up as far as I could and popped the connector off. Put the connector back on first before installing. Like I said before, I ground off a piece of the shield of the new one for easier bolt access and also used a shorter bolt with a starting nipple on it. 1/4 air ratchet makes this much easier. A bitch & a half no matter what you do and my friends have always called me Macgyver.

ELDO GUY
05-01-12, 03:16 PM
YA, sounds like it. If I didnt get your insight I might of brought it in cause In the next few weeks im pressed for time. The longest needle nose ive seen were 11 inches do you think that will do it? IM gonna use my 1/4 drive and make a handle extension. Did you move the hoses or leave them In . My plan was to try it leaving them in. Then if that didnt work I was going to remove the one off the expansion tank and muscle the rest out of the way. Tx.

Aztec ETC ECS
05-01-12, 04:19 PM
11" should be good. Didn't move the hoses. Moving them might help, but if they've been on long enough, they'll probably break when you touch them and need replacing (Extra Ballbuster).

ELDO GUY
05-01-12, 06:31 PM
Got Ya ! Ill fill everybody in when I get this done. As A side note it appears that this issue is slowly starting to get worse. TX.

ELDO GUY
05-02-12, 10:17 PM
WOW , this thing got real bad about a block away from the house I got it in the garage. now waiting for part . Still no codes Was missing real bad . I thought this thing had a limp mode for problems like this ?

Submariner409
05-03-12, 10:04 AM
IF the CKP's or the CMP fail and/or throw codes which cause the SES light to stay on or flash, the engine will default to a fixed timing of 10 degrees BTDC - "limp mode". The engine would then run smoothly but with decreased power, responsiveness and gas mileage.

I'll go on record as saying I am not convinced this intermittent miss is a CMP problem.............weird things do happen on these engines, though.

ELDO GUY
05-03-12, 10:34 AM
Started car this morning was a little rough then smoothed out but Im afraid to drive it I will replace the cmp sensor on Sat and hope for the best. For the record checked the fpr again and its good . Seems like when the engine is at operating temp for a while , thats when the problem occurs . The no codes thing is killing me though.

Aztec ETC ECS
05-03-12, 11:49 AM
Still no P0340?
When warm, start & shut off a few times. I've seen the code usually pop up on start-up.
Mine never missed, just blinking light, 300 & 340 codes. Check the ign mod ground?

Submariner409
05-03-12, 12:28 PM
Still no P0340?
When warm, start & shut off a few times. I've seen the code usually pop up on start-up.
Mine never missed, just blinking light, 300 & 340 codes. Check the ign mod ground?

You may have something there - Each coil cassette uses a coiled spring for the ground path to the cam cover. If that spring loses tension or if either end is corroded, the ground is compromised...........but the check/fix involves removing the offending coil cassette in his 2000 and later system. Also, each ICM - in the L leg of each cassette - is removable: there's a hidden connector and silicone seal inside the cassette. 2 screws and 2 tough plastic snap tabs on the cassette skirt.

Each of the two ICM's has its own connector and harness back to the PCM, thence to/from the CMP and CKP's.

Pictures of all this in my albums.

ELDO GUY
05-03-12, 12:58 PM
This could explain why I only P0 300 when I really push force the issue. No P0300 though when I was slowly gowing down the alley and the car was running real bad . Why do you think the totally warm engine would cause this problem . As a side note Ive used the Di electric grease on the the tops of some of the boots when I replaced the cassettes Could that cause a problem ? I may have put some around that green gasket To by the ground spring . I could be guilty of excessive use of this product.

Aztec ETC ECS
05-03-12, 05:50 PM
I was thinkin more of the low side ground. The ground is the "B"(BLACK/WHITE) wire in each ing mod connector. They join and bolt somewhere left side of eng compartment(not sure where). Or maybe the ICM itself.
Spring should ground high side, not affected by grease.
But you did have a P0340 in the past.

ELDO GUY
05-03-12, 07:16 PM
Yes about a month or two before It showed up 2 or 3 times but went away . I contributed it to the oil flying all over the place . Any possibility of Icm issue. When I replaced the last cassette that was ten years old I was in a hurry and never pulled the icm out and cleaned it up. Also as a side note my car used to idle so well that often times you would not know that it was running. Now it seems less smooth. Also any possibility of a maf issue? I just cleaned that thing up a while back.

Submariner409
05-03-12, 08:33 PM
ANY air leak at or after a divorced MAF will cause a lousy idle, maybe set mixture codes, and contribute to a midrange acceleration stumble.

Post a picture of YOUR intake system, and if yours has a resonator on the duct, with that removed...........reference.........

Click on my username, get to my profile - open the two albums - 6 pages - for pics and illustrations of the 2000+ Seville intake system with the resonator removed..............

ELDO GUY
05-04-12, 11:16 AM
The only consistant thing is that in the high rpm range it starts missing then after a while it goes away with no codes . I did get the po340 a few times a month or 2 ago but I contributed that to the oil being thrown all over the place when I left the filler cap off before I went on a trip. When I replaced the 10 year old coil cassette . I didnt remove and clean up the icm. is that a possible issue? Also I recently cleaned up the maf sensor and cleaned up my k&n filter. Sorry for the delay in response but we had some weather issues here and I took on some water in my den!

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Sorry kind of double posted on that last one! Up to late cleaning up water .

Ranger
05-04-12, 12:27 PM
Might try getting rid of that K&N, clean the TB and go back to the factory air filter.

Aztec ETC ECS
05-04-12, 02:14 PM
No resonator on the duct in the Eldos. MAF is near air filter. You said clamps are tight. Check carefully for cracks in the duct between MAF and TB.

ELDO GUY
05-04-12, 03:30 PM
Will do . Im on this thing tommrow. Im gonna change out the cpk . Test , if this is no good then pull out the icm on the old replacement unit clean and replace it with one of my other ones. also gonna check plugs and the ground on the coil packs. After that ? I can see that cpk thing done in aout a half hour. if it goes well or all day if dont ! Could possibly require a few "beverages".

Ranger
05-04-12, 04:41 PM
Will do . Im on this thing tommrow. Im gonna change out the cpk .
you do realize that there are 2 of them, don't you?

Aztec ETC ECS
05-04-12, 06:36 PM
you do realize that there are 2 of them, don't you?
If CPK means CMP (cam sensor), there is only one. There are 2 crank sensors..

ELDO GUY
05-04-12, 07:09 PM
I was up too late cleaning up water . Im changing the cam shaft sensor! TX.

Ranger
05-04-12, 09:49 PM
CKP = Crankshaft Position sensor
CMP = Camshaft Position sensor

Submariner409
05-04-12, 10:56 PM
Also I recently cleaned up the maf sensor and cleaned up my k&n filter.

For an instant, positive performance improvement get rid of the aftermarket cotton filter and install a real high flow air filter: Purolator, AC Delco, Fram, WIX, PartsMaster.

ELDO GUY
05-07-12, 10:30 AM
Up date. I changed the cmp. That had to be the worst thing ive ever done . Aztec thanks for the insight on how to do this. Did not solve my problem so I went to plan B . I removed the Coil cassette from Bank1 and removed all the plugs .Two of the plugs didnt look so Good .I will post picture of bank 1 plugs later Plan now is to replace all the plugs . Ran out of time this week end

ELDO GUY
05-07-12, 10:47 AM
Here are the 4 plugs i removed. My driving history is 3 miles daily to work one way and a1/4 mile drive to ymca for lunch work out. Every 6 to 8 weeks about 600 mile round trip at high speed, to my condo in door county wis. Iwas thinking that maby i should bump up the heat range of the plug if that was available. Im a WOT addict so this happens a few times a week naturally.

Submariner409
05-07-12, 11:25 AM
The present heat range is OK and those 4 plugs look just fine.

The plug on the left is covered with ash from a sudden high speed acceleration - after your 600 mile trips all 4 of those plugs would look sort of light brownish-white with maybe a flake or two of ash........about like the second plug from the left.

The discolored oil stains on the body are from the normal plug well O-ring seal weeps.

Your engine takes AC Delco (DENSO) #41-987 plugs which come pregapped to .050".

ELDO GUY
05-07-12, 12:15 PM
Gonna change all the plugs tonight . Report back tommrow. Im out of Ideas after this so Ill probably have to take it in if it dosent work. Any other Ideas out there ? Tx for all the imput so far .

Aztec ETC ECS
05-07-12, 02:10 PM
The ash covered one could cause a miss. Especially if there are more in the other bank. Could be caused by light oil burning.
Here's a nice plug chart:
http://www.fordtruckclub.net/forum/photopost/files/1/5/2/0/plugdiag.jpg

ELDO GUY
05-07-12, 03:02 PM
Going left to right I dont think the 3rd one looks so great either the 1 on the end is new only a few thousand. Could be the oil. I used a dose of MMO when I went on that last trip when the problem occurred . Mabe too old school of a product. I also plan on swapping out the icm on Bank one with one of the ones I have from my orginal coil packs .

Submariner409
05-07-12, 06:29 PM
If you use MMO in the recommended mix ratio you'll never - never - see it on the plugs.

The 3 mile and 1/4 mile trips are the problem - that engine never gets a chance to properly heat up. After only 3 miles your lube oil is still stone cold!

From those plugs, even with the short hop driving your engine doesn't use much oil, does it ?? Short hops - about 12 - 14 mpg long term fuel average ??

ELDO GUY
05-07-12, 06:49 PM
Ya, your right on on the mileage and oil use . Hwy I get about 26 to28 but I have gotten as high as 31.2. It depends if I Am driving reasonably or If Im in a Hurry .

ELDO GUY
05-08-12, 11:28 AM
Ok here are the pics of bank 2. All were ok except for #8 it. Looked wet so to paper towel an. Extracted a microscopic point of water. It had no color to it but it was disturbing now I'm thinking the dreaded hg problem.. Had no hg related issues.

Aztec ETC ECS
05-08-12, 12:55 PM
That looks like a "miss". Was the wetness antifreeze, fuel or water? Could have been wet from the miss.
I was under the impression that you checked the plugs when you did the coil.

ELDO GUY
05-08-12, 01:48 PM
Im pretty sure it, was water, but it wasnt orange color. Its been real damp and foggy here for what its worth. I only checked them. I only changed the offending. Iplug when i changed. The. Cassette.

ELDO GUY
05-08-12, 03:05 PM
Im down to my last idea . Back in the day I had a 68 dodge polara with a 383. I took it out, got about 10 miles from the house and it died right in traffic. I was all dressed up and called for a back up ride. Next day. I went to work on it bang started right up. Barely got home died again checked the spark. No spark . Got a new coil when Iwent to put it I checked again and it worked. When the coil got hot it died. Im thinking this is the same . I got a friend who has a new cassette that he will let me borrow . I bet its that old one I bought a few months ago (11 years old ). Im on it again tonight . last time.

ELDO GUY
05-09-12, 10:23 AM
Put in the borrowed coil cassette , Every thing seems to be fine I wonder if this was some sort of Intermintenent problem with the Icm . Ill test over the next few days to be sure Im done with this . Thanks again for everybodys input, time and ideas on this.