: U joint replacement



a016738
04-19-12, 02:34 PM
Hi all...my rear u-joint is squeaking apparently.

From what I'm told replacement is just a matter of unbolting the cups at the rear, sliding the driveshaft out and replacing the joint. Correct?

Also, I've heard mentioned that on the shaft joint retainers, they're held on with plastic pins? I was told to shear off the heads and drill out the plastic pin itself? Ring a bell?

Anyone got a tutorial on the whole process or is it easy enough that I'll be able to feel my way through it?

Thanks,

-John
'07 EXT

cadmanchris
04-19-12, 09:33 PM
Getting out the driveshaft is cake, but replacing the joint could be a PITA. I normally heat the caps on the bench to get them out.

MrHolland
04-19-12, 10:57 PM
After I remove my driveshaft, I like to take it to a driveline shop to have the joints replaced and the shaft balanced. It does cost a little more, but its what they (the shop) do and it simplifies my life.

Tec80
04-19-12, 11:49 PM
Are you still inside the 5/100 warranty period? If so, it is covered under the powertrain warranty. If not, read this:
http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100732

- Use a paint pen to mark the orientation of everything before taking it apart.
- Do not buy replacement U-joints with grease fittings in them, they are notoriously weak due to the cross-drilling.
- Do not bang the caps of the new one in with a hammer, use a press or vise.
- Do not over or under-torque the strap clamp bolts.
- To get the originals out, you have to heat the plastic up until it squirms out like a snake.

a016738
04-20-12, 02:19 PM
Actually...mine's an 07 with 64k miles so I assumed it was out of warranty since the original in service date was more than 5 years prior to today but I called the dealer and they're going to cover it! Saves me some time and aggravation. They've always been good to me. Thanks for the suggestions!

I would have guessed the u joint was a normal wear and tear item but it's covered.