: A tune up: Is this fact or fiction???



carguy16
11-21-04, 04:59 PM
Ok, I told my dad I had to save up for a tune up. I told him what needed to be done.

He says the only thing I need is new spark plugs.

He says the water pump doesnt need replacing until it breaks, the distributer cap lasts the life of the car.

I explained this is no ordinary engine, but that changes nothing at all. Why do I even try??? I just want my car to run strong and not have to worry about it at all.

He says im inexperience, which basically means I dont know what im talking about. No, im not experienced.

But, from what I've read here, taking good care of your engine helps it last longer, this includes an oil changes and tune ups!!!

josmoe1100cc
11-21-04, 06:37 PM
He's correct about the water pump. Although it's a common part to go out on cadillac's there is no need to replace it unless it needs it. As for the tune-up I have done this to my car myself. I would recommend changing all the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor. All of this can be done for $100 in parts. At least that is how much it cost for my '90 Deville.

RBraczyk
11-21-04, 08:32 PM
He's right. Listen to him, you'll save yourself the money and trouble, my dad let me learn the hard way.

jimwig
11-21-04, 09:58 PM
Ask your Dad to show you where the distributor is on your '94 Fleetwood. If he can find it.
Hint: it's in back of the water pump and is called an Optispark. It might last the life of the car if, when the wate pump goes, it didn't leak into the Optispark causing corrosion, et cetera.
Elsewhere, I have read that when the water pump goes it is wise to replace the Optispark at the same time. And, vice versa, because of the labor involved, it is cheaper ultimately, to have both items new at the same time.

Why not have someone check your emissions. If your engine is running clean, chances are you might not need to do anything.

scurling
11-22-04, 01:07 PM
Carguy, my Dad and yours are a lot alike, as my Dad doesn't always know what he's talking about either. But you have to give respect and bring'm around gently on this new technology.

Let me tell you from experience with two '94 Fleetwoods. If you don't rebuild the rotor (Optispark) when it is required it will ultimately burn a few contacts and your car will STOP. Replacing plugs will not tune up the car and make it go when the rotor is worn out. And unless you are buying from eBay, or the guy on the corner in a trench coat, $100.00 will not buy all the parts you need for the Fltwd LT1 engine. When you discuss your tuneup with others, make sure you are talking "apples to apples". Most people don't know anything about the LT1 engine so far as how it differs from the standard Chevy 350. You ask someone how much a rotor cap costs for a Chevy 350, and they will tell you, about $16.00, and that's correct for a regular Chevy 350, but not for the LT1. Most people can't even point to the rotor on the LT1, much less quote prices accurately. Now, let me step off this soap box....

You don't need to replace the water pump, but you will have to remove it and reinstall it, which mean a set of new gaskets (about $3.00) and antifreeze.

The factory recommends a full engine tune-up at 60k. I was able to stretch mine to 85k, but the car was running very rough to the point of almost not running. If your car has more than 85k on the last tune-up and it's running great, that's great, but start planning for a tune up. Get the parts together, etc. When the rotor finally goes south, it will only take a few days, not a few weeks.

I have put up a file with a copy of the actual work order from my tune-up, showing the parts with list price and the price from GM Direct. GM Direct is one of many on-line parts dealers that will save you a bundle in parts costs. Also, the prices listed are a couple of years old.

The file is at: http://members.cox.net/ht77/tuneupLT1parts.jpg
You may need to zoom in on the picture to read some of the text. I blanked out all the personal info, etc. ALso, you will see two belts. My Fltwd has the additional cooling capacity requiring the standard serpentine belt, and an additional fan unit (non-electrical). Your Fltwd. most likely only has the one belt.

Sounds like you and your Dad have a good weekend project sometime in the future.

carguy16
11-22-04, 03:42 PM
I did make another post with the parts required for the tune up, I think the distributer cap/rotor itself is $130.00 bucks, and thats half price not including shipping.

Anyways, Im waiting to see what my gas mileage is. I have done as little idling as possible, I put my seat belt on before I start the car, I follow the speed limit in the city which is up to 55, and have been very light on the gas pedal, and have used the A/C econ mode many times.

I'll try and ask about the dist. later. Thanks for the reciepts.

Oh, and he squeezed one of the the steel pipes that were rusted, said it was fine because it didnt 'give way', Im not worried about that one. But, he didnt see the one that I was talking about that it saturated with something, and has wires sitting on top of it. I dont know what runs through it, I assume its an oil hose to the pan.


Carguy, my Dad and yours are a lot alike, as my Dad doesn't always know what he's talking about either. But you have to give respect and bring'm around gently on this new technology.

Let me tell you from experience with two '94 Fleetwoods. If you don't rebuild the rotor (Optispark) when it is required it will ultimately burn a few contacts and your car will STOP. Replacing plugs will not tune up the car and make it go when the rotor is worn out. And unless you are buying from eBay, or the guy on the corner in a trench coat, $100.00 will not buy all the parts you need for the Fltwd LT1 engine. When you discuss your tuneup with others, make sure you are talking "apples to apples". Most people don't know anything about the LT1 engine so far as how it differs from the standard Chevy 350. You ask someone how much a rotor cap costs for a Chevy 350, and they will tell you, about $16.00, and that's correct for a regular Chevy 350, but not for the LT1. Most people can't even point to the rotor on the LT1, much less quote prices accurately. Now, let me step off this soap box....

You don't need to replace the water pump, but you will have to remove it and reinstall it, which mean a set of new gaskets (about $3.00) and antifreeze.

The factory recommends a full engine tune-up at 60k. I was able to stretch mine to 85k, but the car was running very rough to the point of almost not running. If your car has more than 85k on the last tune-up and it's running great, that's great, but start planning for a tune up. Get the parts together, etc. When the rotor finally goes south, it will only take a few days, not a few weeks.

I have put up a file with a copy of the actual work order from my tune-up, showing the parts with list price and the price from GM Direct. GM Direct is one of many on-line parts dealers that will save you a bundle in parts costs. Also, the prices listed are a couple of years old.

The file is at: http://members.cox.net/ht77/tuneupLT1parts.jpg
You may need to zoom in on the picture to read some of the text. I blanked out all the personal info, etc. ALso, you will see two belts. My Fltwd has the additional cooling capacity requiring the standard serpentine belt, and an additional fan unit (non-electrical). Your Fltwd. most likely only has the one belt.

Sounds like you and your Dad have a good weekend project sometime in the future.

Ralph
11-22-04, 05:05 PM
Oh, and he squeezed one of the the steel pipes that were rusted

The only problem with doing that is it creates weak spots and it will form holes where he squeezed. I never let Midas, etc. do the squeeze test with their plyers for the simple reason that they did it to my friends Hyandai every couple feet of so and he developed a lot of exhaust leaks suddenly.

Plus, if your dad made it "give" then your stuck buying pipes anyway?

scurling
11-22-04, 09:23 PM
I'll be back under my car tomorrow, and I'll look for that item you are trying to identify.
I changed oil and greased the front end tonight. I am seeing a little oil seeping from the !*@*#*%$! hoses running to the cooler unit up front. That's tollerable. I just need to keep it wiped down to reduce the dirt attraction. I've used synthetic oil from 47k mile when I got the car, and unfortunately a little oil seeping is going to happen. So far though, the pan and engine seals are good and tight.

carguy16
11-22-04, 09:41 PM
Yes! That might be the hoses that go to the oil cooler, for the engine right??? This steel rusty tube im talking about is behind the engine, near the transmission. I uploaded photos of it here:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25542

You can see the PCV valve and the steel brake lines, its below that area. Its hard to see from the top of the car, I dont know how easy it is to see looking under neath the car. I had the car on a life at auto shop, and I didnt see it then. But, in the pics I uploaded, I have a picture zoomed out so you know where to stand and look, then a pic of where I zoomed in so you know what to look for.

Let me know what you find, I know I have a tube for the ABS pump rusting a little, but that is just surface rust.


I'll be back under my car tomorrow, and I'll look for that item you are trying to identify.
I changed oil and greased the front end tonight. I am seeing a little oil seeping from the !*@*#*%$! hoses running to the cooler unit up front. That's tollerable. I just need to keep it wiped down to reduce the dirt attraction. I've used synthetic oil from 47k mile when I got the car, and unfortunately a little oil seeping is going to happen. So far though, the pan and engine seals are good and tight.