: Is there an alternate way to lock the flywheel?



Faded Crest
03-22-12, 02:53 PM
I am ready to remove the crank pulley and need to secure the flywheel. Of course, the book calls for the special tool to install underneath but I have the cradle sitting on a pallet jack and getting to that spot is going to be tricky. Can I do something up top instead with the starter out? Don't want to hurt anything of course. Just looking for a solution so I can keep moving.

Marc

Ranger
03-22-12, 02:56 PM
Are the heads off?

Faded Crest
03-22-12, 02:58 PM
No... I thought I had to remove the crank pulley first...???

Ranger
03-22-12, 03:05 PM
Well in that case, a bit unconventional, but you could pull all the plugs, fill one cylinder with oil, reinstall that plug only and slowly turn the crank until it hydrolocks. Now it ain't going nowhere and you should be able to remove the pulley.

stoveguyy
03-22-12, 03:05 PM
There is a flywheel lock that installs where the starter is. U remove starter and use it. Seen it on eBay. $30 or so. U can remove starter and put vise grip on flex plate but it is tight. Starter hole is small. And u need lots of torque to remove balancer bolt.

Faded Crest
03-22-12, 03:09 PM
Well in that case, a bit unconventional, but you could pull all the plugs, fill one cylinder with oil, reinstall that plug only and slowly turn the crank until it hydrolocks. Now it ain't going nowhere and you should be able to remove the pulley.

Now that's what I call an old school solution! Thanks.

----------


There is a flywheel lock that installs where the starter is. U remove starter and use it. Seen it on eBay. $30 or so. Seen 2 other parts that install on exterior block bits when motor is on engine stand. If u had motor on tand, it's usually easy to clamps flex plate to stand bracket. That is bush league but it works.

A flywheel lock at the starter would work, but it's on my pallet jack so it's hard to get under it safely to install the factory style tool... I would have to hoist it all up a little and I don't want to go through all that if there is an easier way.

stoveguyy
03-22-12, 03:12 PM
U know starter is under intake?

Faded Crest
03-22-12, 03:15 PM
I already have the intake off and the starter removed... I just didn't know if that was a safe place to try to lock it. The tool I am aware of is made to go on bottom.

Faded Crest
03-22-12, 05:19 PM
U know starter is under intake?

Woops, now I see why you ask that... my wording was confusing. I do have access to the starter opening. I had decided to just lift the cradle to install the other tool but I can't find one around here.

tateos
03-22-12, 07:24 PM
There's not that much force out near the starter teeth on the ring gear. Just put a long bolt through the starter hole, and then in one of the torque converter bolt holes...then place a small rag as a cushion between the bolt and the starter flange - worked for me...might have bent the bolt some, if I remember correctly, so use a bolt or whatever that you don't care about

92Deville
03-22-12, 11:46 PM
I tried the bolt through the flex plate method and it bent the flex plate

Faded Crest
03-23-12, 12:18 AM
I tried the bolt through the flex plate method and it bent the flex plate

YIKES! It sounded like a good idea to me. Well I guess I'll try Richard's method and see how that does. I removed my starter so I don't have to worry about damaging the flange. The little tool is $50+... Would rather save the money and find a workaround.

maeng9981
03-23-12, 12:24 AM
More than one way to skin this cat. I used a strong, big, and trusty screwdriver through the starter hole and a rag, with one helper. It didn't bend the screwdriver, didn't damage the block and the balancer bolt came right off. I even used this method to install the balancer bolt. Again, no damage.

If you were to use a factory tool to lock the flexplate through the starter hole, you can't use one of those that is used through the bottom, you need one of these.
http://i.imgur.com/h94Ql.jpg

stoveguyy
03-23-12, 11:25 AM
Such a simple little lock but it makes the job go so much easier. I hope you are using the proper puller for the balancer? Do not grab the outside of balancer. You can damage it with wrong puller. Just like the p/s pulley and WP pulley need a special puller. The pulleys have molded in grooves on the hub to be used to pull them properly. But u don't need to remove P/S pulley. Just remove pump body. 1 bolt.

Faded Crest
03-23-12, 12:18 PM
Yeah, got the water pump drive pulley off and I have a good 3 jaw for the balancer. It fits nicely on the inside. I went to 3 places looking for the correct lock tool but nobody had even heard of it. It's $50 on ebay plus shipping, so if the screwdriver trick works, I'll be happy.

tateos
03-24-12, 01:55 AM
I tried the bolt through the flex plate method and it bent the flex plate

Ouch! Sorry about that - worked for me...

Faded Crest
03-24-12, 12:57 PM
Okay, So this is the method I invented... since they say that "necessity is the mother of invention." I placed the Flexible end of a 18mm ratcheting combination wrench at 90 degrees over a flywheel bolt with a shop towel to protect the flange (removed for the photo). I had to keep the wrench steady while my nephew broke the bolt loose with a breaker bar + a floor jack handle. (abut 5 feet of leverage).

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd407/thejumpsuitman/102_0639.jpg

Ranger
03-24-12, 10:32 PM
There is more than one way to skin every cat. :thumbsup: