: What engines are compatible with 2000 seville sts.... Coil to spark plug type.....



Seville59
03-21-12, 01:53 PM
I have a 2000 seville sts and i been noticing it had been overheating recently just a lil.....ive changed to oil....put 2 quarts lucas oil and 5.5 quarts 10w 40.....my mechanic insists all northstars take 9 quarts....i argued and he said ask any real mechanic...after that....i ran my car everthing was good...then my trans cooler liner had a leak by the seal squirting all my transmission fluid everywhere....got that fixed....next day im driving to drop off tool and notice me car overheating again....just a tad....then extremem.....this time my upper radiatior hose tore right in half....too much pressure?...so i replaced it....and got home safely....when i got home i noticed there was no coolant in the resevoir....so i topped it off and just figured i needed to add more....so i starting reading my cadillac bible and realized....hey.....my car been runnin on the wrong antifreeze for more than a year....i just seen that it needed to be dexcool........so my car was runnin ok minus the lil radiatior and trans incidents.....so i purchased prestone super flush and flushed out my system...took out thermostat...flushed and replaced with new....i added some gasket seal when i added new dexcool just to be sure....followed directions and started car.....now...i just flushed the car and was about to take for test drive when i shift to drive im getting no power...its wants to go but its sounds like its clogged....the trans worked fine the day before by the way....so i was able to drive a lil out garage and then stalled.....i tried reversing and it was reversing but once i was going into my garage it couldnt even go over lil hump....i just replaced my catalyc converter and i looked down while i was reversing and notice it was cherry red hot like if something clogged it and ended blowing out the lil beads in there....brand new not even a month hold :(,,,, i dont know if its my trans cuz it was working fine day before or if its heads cuz the coolant resevoir was smoking hot.....and foamiing a lil....can that be my heads or head gaskets..... I feel like iwas getting no compression.....no power to trans....

Seville59
03-21-12, 02:05 PM
Ive checked the specs and sts dts etc all have same 300 hp motor but im not sure if the electrical or motor mounts will fit.... My 2000 cadillac seville sts motor blew the heads or head gaskets i think....but im not sure...i know its not the trans..... So if its gonna cost over 1500 to fix id rather replace with a 2002 cadillac dts motor is compatible.... Would anybody know and if so can you let me know what to look for....the 02 motor is out the car with supposedly 70,000 miles on it...its complete without trans.....i just hope nothings wrong the the heads or gaskets...someone pleaseeeee help..from one cadillac enthusiasts to another !!!


ATTACHED IS THE PICTURE OF 2002 CADILLAC DTS MOTOR.....THIS IS THE MOTOR I WANT TO PUT INTO OR TRY TO PUT INTO THE 2000 CADILLAC SEVILLE STS

Submariner409
03-21-12, 02:19 PM
The 2000 STS and 2002 DTS engines are essentially identical. Keep your same PCM. You might - just might - have a couple of electrical connectors that don't match.

2002 engines are not normally just sitting around, out of cars. There's a reason.

What (exactly and in detail) makes you think there's something wrong with the engine in your car now ?? (EDIT: Now that I see your question on your significant engine and transmisson problems, there's more to this than meets the eye.)

Ranger
03-21-12, 02:25 PM
put 2 quarts lucas oil and 5.5 quarts 10w 40.....my mechanic insists all northstars take 9 quarts....i argued and he said ask any real mechanic.
Find a new "mechanic". It holds 7.5 qts of 5W30 (you can use 10W30).


i added some gasket seal when i added new dexcool just to be sure..
:tisk:


i just replaced my catalyc converter and i looked down while i was reversing and notice it was cherry red hot
You're dumping raw fuel into the exhaust system. Check for a leaky FPR.
A clogged CAT will cause a lack of power.

HG's are a possibility. Borrow a block test kit from AutoZone. Just pay for the test fluid. Run the test after an overheat episode, but DO NOT top off the coolant before the test.

Submariner409
03-21-12, 02:26 PM
I'm going to merge this thread with your engine compatibility question down in Northstar Performance. You have some serious problems, and a few of your temporary BandAids have not helped.

Seville59
03-21-12, 02:32 PM
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST !!! I'm going to check now

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Submariner thanks im going to try to send you thread of exactly what happened to my car..... I'm new to cadillac forum bare with me please

Submariner409
03-21-12, 02:40 PM
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST !!! I'm going to check now

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Submariner thanks im going to try to send you thread of exactly what happened to my car..... I'm new to cadillac forum bare with me please

Don't send me a thread - Post it all right in here so we all get a crack at the problems.

Seville59
03-21-12, 02:56 PM
@ranger your absolutely right ... I need a new mechanic.....this guy was a lazy ****.....funny thing is...he works for midas.... Hmmm....should i trust the midas touch......obviously not....i really appreciate your help fellas...... I love my caddy it treated me good and i wana repay the favor lol

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Ok i was reply thru my phone with the cadillac forum app....im in front pc now......way better

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Whats a fpr

I did just put $82 bp gold and lucas deep cleaning fuel system cleaner the day before the flush......is that bad? Cuz even when i put that amount..my needle never went past the halfway mark?

CadillacLuke24
03-21-12, 04:00 PM
FPR is the fuel pressure regulator. I believe it's at the beginning of the fuel rail, and if it leaks, it's bad. Ranger, Sub?

Seville59
03-21-12, 04:12 PM
I'm bout to check that right now...but it doesn't appear to be leaking any fluids?

Submariner409
03-21-12, 05:06 PM
First off, STOP dumping snake oil into your gasoline and engine. You're not doing any good - more harm than good, matter of fact. Your car and engine will be perfectly happy on a name brand 10W-30 engine oil and a good brand of gasoline. The other junk is not necessary, and as a matter of fact, is specifically NOT recommended by GM or any other car manufacturer. Forget the advertising hype: Take care of your car, not the snake oil salesman's wallet.

The FPR - on the right (rear) run of the fuel rail. A domed thingy with a vacuum line attached to the side. You pull the vacuum line (don't break it) and check for raw fuel in the line and FPR nipple. Any fuel means a ruptured internal diaphragm. The FPR is held in by a hairpin clip - 2 O-rings in there. Smear a drop of engine oil on each one before pushing it back in. If you need a new FPR, talk to Chris in parts at Rippy Cadillac over there >>>> If no luck there, get an AC Delco unit from www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com).

Your Post #1 is a horror story. You NEED to learn how to get trouble codes from the car's built in code scanner/memory. Read, study, practice the proper year and OBD group instructions for your car in the sticky post (at the top of this forums page) "How to pull codes". Practice, write them all down, return to the sticky and open the link with "obd2" in the address. That will take you to a Master Index of all P,B,C, and U codes. Get the definitions for any codes you found, write it all down and post it here.

For the 2000 - Click on my username, open my profile. 2 albums, 6 pages in there. Diagrams and parts pictures for that car.

Seville59
03-22-12, 09:23 AM
Yea all the oil additives and fuel treatments are unnecessary......im going to check the fpr now .....I'll let you know if I find anything.....if it is fpr......how much would one of those units cost .....

Seville59
03-22-12, 02:07 PM
SO I CHECKED THE FPR AND THATS GD..... IM GOING TO FLUSH SYSTEM AGAIN.....AND DRAIN OIL AND PUT PROPER OIL AND PUT 7.5 qrts...

Seville59
03-22-12, 06:45 PM
??????? When car is off/cold should trans fluid still be visible on dipstick?? When I checked originally there. Was fluid.....but its showing nothing now .....then I started car ...let it run for 15 mins....then checked trans for fluid .....it reached a lil under hot cross hairs........ima add some...hopefully that was reason why trans didn't run maybe?

Ranger
03-22-12, 09:22 PM
??????? When car is off/cold should trans fluid still be visible on dipstick??
No. It is a dry sump trans. No fluid in the side cover when the engine is off. That's why you check it idling at operating temperature. When it's off, all the fluid is in the pan.

Seville59
03-23-12, 10:31 AM
Cool thanks bro ....I'm gonna change and drain my trans fluid and change filter.....i don't think its ever been changed in its 175000 mile life !!!

Submariner409
03-23-12, 01:31 PM
What filter ?? There's an internal screen 'filter' that you can change at overhaul, and screens that you can wash off after a pan drop. Use the new DEXRON-VI for the refill. Replace only as much as you drained out - then check the fluid level with the engine running in P, hot (not just "warmed up" - hot). Fluid just at or maybe in the middle of the hot hashmark.

Your engine won't run or maybe run "right' with that intake duct resonator out of its hole. You might want to do the butt plug mod shown in my picture albums - it sure does make engine checks a lot easier.

If you do decide to exchange the transmission fluid, remember to reset the transmission fluid OLM.

Seville59
03-23-12, 03:16 PM
Yea that's it.....the screens.....ima wash screens and refill with that fluid you recommended.......in my cadillac book it says it takes approx 11 qrts of trans fluid .....should I put that much in or only amount found in trans pan?...

CadillacLuke24
03-23-12, 03:21 PM
NO. Fill the trans a little bit low, say 8 or 9 quarts, and then add as needed. Confucius say, "It easier to add more trans fluid than siphon too much out." :D

Seville59
03-23-12, 08:41 PM
......... Aahhhh... THAT CONFUCIUS .....VERY VERY SMART ..... V-_-V LOL

Ranger
03-23-12, 10:32 PM
Yea that's it.....the screens.....ima wash screens and refill with that fluid you recommended.......in my cadillac book it says it takes approx 11 qrts of trans fluid .....should I put that much in or only amount found in trans pan?...
:tisk: Don't go by that or you will need a turkey baster. I think I had to suck 3 qts out of mine. Start with 7 and add as necessary (if needed).

94CaddyConcours
03-24-12, 02:22 AM
Did you find out if your FPR is good or bad?

Seville59
03-24-12, 04:43 PM
Ok cool...now after I add 7 qts ....do I turn car on ...leave running for 10 mins then add more trans fluid until it reaches crosshairs?.... and the fpr looked like it was in good condition...no leaks any where

Ranger
03-24-12, 10:33 PM
Yes.

Seville59
03-25-12, 07:06 PM
Cool thanks

Seville59
04-02-12, 10:18 AM
.....what kind if antifreeze do you recommend for the sts....i heard dexcool isnt gd for gm.....

Submariner409
04-02-12, 11:16 AM
Your (and my) cars came with DEX-COOL installed. There is absolutely nothing wrong with DEX-COOL, whether in a GM engine, a Toyota engine, or a Mercedes Benz engine. By the same token, there is nothing wrong with the new crop of no-silicate green coolants, HD diesel coolants, or HD marine coolants.

The bottom line for each type is to faithfully perform coolant exchanges and system maintenance. While DEX-COOL is advertised as a "5 year" coolant it is wise to change it at 3 - 4 year intervals, and to change a green coolant at 2 - 3 year intervals.

Most of us in here are pretty good about preventive maintenance - but there are others who wait for some warning to show up or who never even read the owner's manual - maintenance section. If your car has to tell you to check the oil, brake fluid, or coolant level, it's crying for help, and you are not a conscientious car owner.

Seville59
04-02-12, 09:05 PM
Thanks......just making sure cuz when I bought vehicle ....it had green antifreeze and I flushed it all out....i needed to flush gasket seal out it was, making my engine idle hard

Submariner409
04-03-12, 09:25 AM
IF the cooling system has (had) a sealant in it, that would not cause a poor idle. That's a vacuum/fuel/air intake/ignition/throttlebody cleaning problem.

Seville59
04-08-12, 05:55 PM
Compression test was gd.....it was coil packet module had to put my old one back in....car runs now :) ...... Just gotta find thermostat housing gasket....do they sell that separate?

Seville59
04-09-12, 11:20 PM
......got everything in place.....car is running like before.....but after about half hour or so the temp gauge goes past the middle just a lil bit ?....maybe even to the next line....but then it'll go back to the middle ....i noticed that in traffic today??.... It still ran good.....maybe head gaskets?

Submariner409
04-10-12, 09:27 AM
......got everything in place.....car is running like before.....but after about half hour or so the temp gauge goes past the middle just a lil bit ?....maybe even to the next line....but then it'll go back to the middle ....i noticed that in traffic today??.... It still ran good.....maybe head gaskets?

This heat/cool sequence is normal for the engine - fans do not even go to SLOW until 224 degrees - very close to the first tick past 12:00.

Look in my picture albums for an annotated temp gauge with the fan settings and other info.............click on my username, open my profile. left column: 2 albums, 6 pages of Northstar stuff.