: How's everyone doing on their projects?

03-21-12, 12:25 PM
Recently I just finished replacing all rear brake parts be abuse of constant loss in fluid. Tomorrow I will be doing my first transmission fluid filter and fluids change on the vehicle. Has about 89,000 miles on it and not sure when it was last changed. I'm saving up to buy the front suspension kit from p-s-t.com; for $269 plus free shipping it comes with all bushings, upper and lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends and stabilizer bars. I figure I'll just by the adjusting sleeves from autozone for $12 a pair and later on replace the inner tie rod ends and pitman arm. The kit that would include those also will be $439 I believe is what he told me. I'm tired of buying used tires so it's time to get this done and find a shop that can do an alignment on an older vehicle.

Still have the manifold exhaust leak to fix but I'm not sure if I want to tackle that job with those rusted bolts or let a professional do that. Any input?

03-22-12, 07:11 PM
All I can say about the exhaust leak is to be careful as you can in removing
the exhaust manifold bolts.
I just did a complete rebuild on a 500 Eldo engine and even though the engine
was out on a stand and all precautions on rusty bolts were taken....
4 of them broke off! Not really a big deal for the machine shop, if you are intending to take the heads off
for a valve job anyway. But, they can break regardless of how careful you are....
In my case, it was obvious that the shanks of the bolts actually were rusting away and
had never been off ....
Let us know how you fare!


03-22-12, 09:47 PM
At that mileage, your ball joints might be fine. My 79 Eldo had terrible handling
at 30,000 miles. I replaced all the rubber bushings, but left the ball joint & other
metal joints alone (till I hit 200,000 miles). I replace a lot of stuff, but try NOT
to replace perfectly good parts. Bruce Roe

03-23-12, 08:30 PM
When removing manifold bolts: use an impact gun. They will spin right out.

03-24-12, 02:26 PM
I think I'll try greasing all the joints. No telling when the last time they were done. Should greatly improve how it's doing now.

04-06-12, 02:04 AM
I had to remove one of my manifolds to replace a freeze plug a couple months ago, they hadnt ever been taken out and were tough so what i did was i heated the bolts with a torch till they were red then let them cool off and i would spray penetration fluid on them in between, worked out great. And ive been looking for a front end kit for my car for awhile now and i read your post and went on p-s-t.com, great website, really helped me out

04-06-12, 09:22 AM
I am presently tackling the brakes on my blue Coupe. I just completed making a new front crossover line for the right front brake caliper. I heated the end of the line at the flex hose and even with the bleeder open the flex line failed, so I had to replace that. After installation, and filling the system, the new sealed system caused the master to fail and I just replaced that a few years ago. So today I am going to replace the master.

04-10-12, 07:41 AM
I greased all the areas but didn't help much. Could hear the tires squealing at every light turn. My kit should be in by Thursday. $389 and comes with everything except upper ball joints, pitman arm and center drag link. I plan on knocking this out all on Friday. I have a lifetime warranty on my pads and front shocks so I will replace those again as well. Thinking of also painting my calipers and drums. Then change my differential fluid.
Is your car braking much better?
Also are you doing the whole front kit for suspension as well?

04-10-12, 05:06 PM
I had to remove one of my manifolds to replace a freeze plug a couple months ago, they hadnt ever been taken out and were tough so what i did was i heated the bolts with a torch till they were red then let them cool off and i would spray penetration fluid on them in between, worked out great. And ive been looking for a front end kit for my car for awhile now and i read your post and went on p-s-t.com, great website, really helped me out

That is the correct way to remove stubborn bolts. It's nice to learn that early in life. I didn't get that figured out until much later in life.

04-10-12, 07:27 PM
I may try this Friday. Where did you buy your new bolts from? I hope this works for me lol.

04-11-12, 09:00 AM
Well, i had several posts here, regarding my 78 CDV... but basically, after 4 years, car is running perfect, with no issues on the EFI system or emissions.
You guys have no idea, how hard it is to make emissions and EFI work perfectly with no adaptations here in Brasil, no parts, no technical knowledge, it required a lot of FSM reading, together with a lot of help from this forum and the cadillac la salle club forum also, specifically DEVILLE33 and BCROE!

Anyway, car is running perfect now, but i still need to remove the flowmaster super44 and put back the catalytic converter and og muffler.

Even the ride height control is working fine now, i removed the "manual" controls the old owner had adapted redone the wiring, and the compressor is up and running again and the sensor had bad contacts.

Now when i have the cash, will redo the interior, and should be good to go.

Here is a pic.

04-11-12, 09:42 AM
Very nice. Is that a triple black, or is the interior the dove gray?

04-12-12, 07:19 AM
actually it was triple silver, but the previous owner painted black and put a new black canvas top, interior is still silver. as i will need to redo the interior, and changing car colors is a tedious proccess (legally) here in Brasil, i might leave it black and go for a RED or CARAMEL interior.

04-12-12, 09:18 PM
In between erecting the 70' radio tower and rewiring & insulating the attic to R40, I
did some maintenance on the 77. Grease, oil, filter, checked brakes, put on 4 new
tires. Still need to align, replace the torque converter with one from the half dozen
I just had rebuilt. The front marker lights were both burned out, decided to try LED
replacements. Put in the right one, wouldn't fit back in the fixture. Got another type
LED, not so tall. It didn't light, you have to turn around for polarity in that case. Put
silicon grease everywhere to keep water out, assemble.

To do, the left marker, should be just as easy? Can't get to it, have to take out the
fender brace, the battery, and the air cleaner inlet tube. Got the light out, tried the
LED, doesn't light. OK, turn around, it STILL doesn't light. OHHHHH, the battery is
out! Manage to clip the battery back, turn the LED around again, get light. Put it all
back together, enough for one night. Bruce Roe

04-14-12, 09:40 AM
Replaced the master brake unit yesterday. Had my cousin with me to help bleed the brakes.Wouldn't you know it, the line to the front left caliper blew out. Well, now I'll have new lines throughout, and should be pretty much assured the brakes are secured now.

04-16-12, 02:09 PM
Well I have to get a couple more tools so I can remove the lower and upper control arms to replace the bushings. Can't find the upper ball joints cheap but every pic I see shows a ball joint that doesn't look like the one on my car. May order one in from autozone just to check it out. This is so time consuming lol. I need help in Jacksonville Florida.

04-20-12, 05:35 PM
Spent $50 at harbor freight and got extended 1/2 impact extenders, also a long set of combo wrenches up to 1". Got the whole right side off and the bushings off both a frames. Wasn't to difficult. Painted them. Tomorrow I will put the new bushings in. Ordered my upper ball joints from a car parts company $75 a piece. Not to bad. Will be in by next Wednesday. That's more than enough time to disassemble the driver side and paint the a frames. This mechanic at a shop will charge me $60 to remove all 4 ball joints and in stall the new ones. I'm willing to pay that to not deal with a headache lol. Plan on being back on the road by next Saturday.

05-01-12, 05:08 PM
I have replaced all parts of the suspension as of today. I plan on ordering some calipers and the hoses this week. I chose to use the green grease because it says weather proof on it.

I have ran into one problem if anyone knows any tricks. My outer tie rod ends won't fall back into the spindle even with a couple of taps from the hammer. One goes in enough to get the nut on but will not finish seating itself. The other hasn't went down enough to get the bolt on some. Any tips tricks or ideas?