Just wondering if anyone here has needed new rotors this early? My car has been in and out of the dealer for months now with random problems, every time it's in I ask them how are the brakes, I'm always told "they're still in good shape" as its all part of their "100 point inspection". Now the car is in for my third supercharger replacement and they tell me I need new rotors and pads....Pads i can obviously understand, but Rotors?!? I never ride the brakes, and only occasionally open her up....Is my dealer trying to get me for rotors? What're your guys thoughts?
Third supercharger!!!!!!!!!!!!! WT" Can you tell us what has been the culprit to your supercharger failures??? I have had an 09 and currently have 11 coupe and just had the rattle can noise when idling for which GM says is normal if the rattle goes away when rpms are brought to 1200.
just want to know what to listen for, thanks sorry for all your ass-pain. These V's are the best bang for the buck on the market.
Yeah tell me about it lol. They sent someone in from Detroit to look at it after the second replacement, I know they found that my air intake had a pretty decent leak which caused the car to run lean for quite a while. Mind you I took the car in multiple times for the check engine code the car kept throwing before that, and every time it was supposedly fixed....so i ended up driving lean because they couldnt diagnose a simple leak. This time its for the rattle and supposedly there's a new TSB for it.
The V2's rotors should be OK for 100K of normal use, which I would classify as 'street only' .
Either there's a major problem with one of the pistons sticking or you're being shafted.[
I complained about the brakes getting stuck after the car wasnt driven for a day or two, id really have to give it some gas to get the car to break free. Their diagnoses is that its normal and I need new brakes and rotors...
Odd. I'm at just about 35k miles and my rotors are fine. So are the stock pads. I expect to get a full 100k out of them at this rate unless I start tracking.
I'm more concerned about your being on your THIRD supercharger. That is impressive.
I had to replace rotors and pads right around 30k miles also. Measured the rotors and they were just at minimum thickness. Everything on the car is OEM, mainly used for commuting. That said, I did buy it with some miles on it, so no telling how it was treated in it's past life.
The motor ran lean for "quite some time" and they replaced the supercharger? Did you hear any detonation? Did you express major concern about pistons & head gaskets?
Just curious if you have actually heard detonation/pinging in a motor before? It may be hard to hear inside of the V's sound deadend interior. Hopefully if there was any detonation it would have been detected very quickly by the knock sensors and the timing would have been retarded enough to avoid any damage. I'm sure these events would have been recorded by the ecm and the dealer would have had access to this when the vehicle was checked out. Hopefully someone with more knowledge here will chime in and let you know if things need to be checked out further. Good luck.
I'm getting ready to change my front pads at 33k. I measured my rotors and was shocked to see they are hardly worn (roughly 1/3 of the available thickness gone). That includes 3 track events, but only 1 was hard on the brakes because I didn't push it very hard the other times.
From what I've read and experienced, if you don't brake hard enough you can wear out your rotors faster than normal. If you brake hard enough to heat them up and get that bluish tint on the rotor (which is pad material) your rotors will last longer at the expense of pad life (because the pad is acting on the pad material on the rotor, not the steel). I can easily tell when I've been braking too lightly and worn off the burnish: when I stop hard in a turn lane I use every day, I notice I have to press the pedal harder and the ABS doesn't come on (and the brakes don't feel as "grabby"). If I make a few hard stops and go back to that same turn and brake the same way I get major ABS and stop several feet short of where I meant to.
Do you have an auto or manual? That can make a diff in how much you have to brake.
Sorry to hear you've been in and out of the dealer often, BooYaKa! If you would like me to look into any part of the situation further, including locating alternate dealerships nearby, please let me know.
I've got 28K on mine and have been living with a vibration for the last 8K miles. The dealer wouldn't warranty and they wouldn't turn/cut them either. Long story short, NTB used some "on axle" cutting machine (ProTurn or ProCut?), made the cut so the rotor maintained its thickness spec and all is well again.
They charged me a whopping total of $60 for both rotors, which I thought was a bargain.
Baabootoo
If you are asking how I find previous threads, I simply search using Google.
All I searched for was "Cadillac 2009 CTSV forum warping rotors"
Try it it's easy.
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Also, does anyone have the part numbers for both the front and back rotors and pads?
Thanks tedboss1, not as much as I thought. The pads are about half the price of the rotors?
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