: Broken rear pax window
11-13-04, 03:09 PM
I went out today to put some conditioner on my leather seats, I roll down the windows since its such a nice day, I start rolling down the rear right window, it falls of the track immediately. I go over and push it UP with my hands manually, I figure no big deal, I just wont use that window. So, Im applying the conditioner about 45 minutes when the window just falls all the way down by itself, I get out and push it up, and can only get it 3/4th the way up, I cant grip it and its hot from the sun. So, Im writing this right now.
I know the left rear window was just fixed before I bought the car, I think this one is going to be repaired, since it fell down by it self. :devil:
EDIT: For the bill that the guy gave me for a bunch of work done(I didnt pay for it, he did), it said:
LEFT REAR WINDOW DOES NOT WORK ; REPLACE LEFT REAR WINDOW GUIDE.
These window guides arent the cheap things you guy's were talking about previously, are they?
11-13-04, 05:27 PM
I just called the local Chevrolet Dealer, because the Cadillac dealer is closed, and they told me that it sounds like a "regulator" is not working, and they told me its $350.00 bucks to fix! :banghead:
I can hear the motor go up and down, and I know at one point I was sitting in the car and the window slid down by itself, and know the window is stuck 3/4 the way open, I've tried pushing it closed, but If I try any harder Im going to pull the door off with the window. :bonkers:
So, until I get this fixed, Im going to have to put some tape and saran wrap over the window. He said it would be about a 2 hour job at $78.00 an hour for labor, then $350.00 for the regulator, yikes that $506.00 to fix a damn window, thats high way robbery. He said they had to pop rivets out to replace the regulator.
I never checked the windows when I bought the car, but Im sure they would have worked then. A day or two ago, I started hearing a chinking sound when I closed the door, so it sounds like something is loose inside the right rear door. I know in Discount Auto Parts, they have a Chevy Caprice manual, 91-96 in it, should I go take a look at it and see what it says about replacing the rear window??? The componentry should be about the same, right??? :(
Im going to try and find a junk yard, or a Barely Used Auto Parts store, I've never called them before, I should try Napa or someone next...What to do...
EDIT: My dad tryed to pry the window up with no luck, so he told me to turn the ignition on, and then he went to the back rear window and pushed it down manually, figured out it was seated off of the track, and put it back on, so now its back on track. I'm not going to use that window, and I'm relieved that its finally up, as I couldnt get it up with the power, or by pushing it up.
Try these guys, I bought several regulators from them and they work fine. Much cheaper than the dealership.
11-13-04, 10:55 PM
Window stuff doesn't take too much effort to do. Pull the fuse or disconnect your neg cable. Take off the door panel and remove the inner metal panel. Be careful when your peeling the protective sheeting off. I would replace the motor while you are at it. If the window went up at normal speed the first couple times you did it, then it is more likely a regulator or what is more simply called a limit switch. So tell us if it was ever slow, or if it went up at the same speed as the other passenger window.
11-13-04, 11:48 PM
Carguy, Good advice above. I rebuilt my old '86 Olds 98 pasngr. window when it got tired and wouldn't go up without a helping hand. The dealer's price is high because of the labor involved. It isn't a lot of hard work to fix the window, it's just a pain and requires time.
You might even get it open and find out it's not as bad as the dealer said. There's a lot of small plastic parts in there that can break with age. If you decide to do the work, take it slow, document the little screws as you go, so you don't wind up with a few left over; otherwise in about six weeks, you'll start hearing rattles.
11-13-04, 11:53 PM
WHen you get in there, move things around, be gentle, GM windows are a pain in the ass. My track is rotted out in my passenger door, and I lost the front moulding, but it still works. If you hear something loose that could be your only problem. More than likely your motor can't handle it anymore, or the brushes are misaligned. Window motors are cheap on 10 year old cars so don't be afraid to take apart the old motor.
11-14-04, 02:01 PM
How would I pull the door panel off? When I open the door, on the outside edge of the door, around the red light area I believe, I can see a white clip, but I dont wanna pull it off, because I dont know what Im doing. I need a factory repair manual, now where to get one???
11-14-04, 03:46 PM
Im not positive, but you may have a few screws to remove, and then you can start to pry the door panel off. If you can get a haynes manual. Its about all you need. 20 bucks. Get one though Borders or Barnes and Noble. Or even an autoshop.
11-14-04, 05:02 PM
There are two screws under the inside door pull handle and another screw on the plastic wood part behind the interior door handle. The window switch prys up from the back of the switch. They do sell a door panel clip removal tool, but if you feel brave give the door panel a firm tug all around the edges. After that the door panel sort of hangs on the door on the top. You gotta raise the door panel upwards to unhook it... Good luck if you decide to take this mission...
11-19-04, 03:33 PM
I posted four scans of the rear window and door panel from the shop manual.
This should get you started when you decide to fix the window. It will pay to buy a special tool called "door trip and clip remover". I've never bought oune, but I'm sure you can get them at a local parts store. This tool will probably save you from tearing up the door panel where the plastic clips are located.
The problem area is most likely with the sash or regulator. I had a window regulator break at the top where the two pins glide in the top track piece. The only piece that broke was the plastic pin that connected the regulator are to the glide insert. A 50 cent piece of plastic was all that needed replacing.
If you open the door up and fix the window. Take the time to use a little bearing grease, or white lithium greas in the regulator tracks, and on anything that moves. I'm sure you will find it in need of lubrication after all these years.
Pictures are at:
Picture reardoor5.jpg would not upload without problems at the server end, so I made the figure at the bottom of the page a separte picture with reardoor7.jpg. There is no picture #6.