: Spot the mod....



1BadCadSTS
01-21-12, 05:38 PM
http://i44.tinypic.com/14wred3.jpg

Notice anything different?

What do you guys think?

nathanjax
01-21-12, 05:47 PM
AC is blue and white... looks good. How'd ya do it?

1BadCadSTS
01-21-12, 06:02 PM
took it all apart and replaced the SMD orange LEDs to "Cool White" ones... looks SO much nicer but was not easy to do

working on my spare cluster next....

550HP STSV
01-21-12, 06:16 PM
pictures? step by step instructions?

MacMuse
01-21-12, 07:53 PM
Looks good. Bet it really pops at night.






Although I thought this was going to about finding me or GizmoQ in a group shot!

550HP STSV
01-21-12, 09:49 PM
ive got a few group shots with gizmo.

1BadCadSTS
01-22-12, 12:19 PM
Looks good. Bet it really pops at night.





Although I thought this was going to about finding me or GizmoQ in a group shot!

Yeah I really like it cant wait to finish the cluster to match it. To me in the day it doesnt seem "as bright" but its still perfectly ledgibe. At night it really pops opposed to the orange and is a nice match to the blue nav screen. I could of went green and matched the color option 2 for the nav or left it along for color option 3 in orange but I prefer the blue...


Heres a night pic, please excuse the blue floor lights, I selected the wrong color I wanted blueish white "cool white" they came and are WAY too blue so I reordered in bright white.

http://i44.tinypic.com/350p440.jpg

aliskerov
01-22-12, 06:56 PM
Definitely wanting a step-by-step on this, or atleast a list of needed bulbs and tools. Awesome job!

CADDYBLACK99
01-23-12, 09:29 PM
You have to be good with a solder iron! SMD's are this small (--) (SMD package type: 0603. Industry standard footprint: 1.60 x 0.80 x 0.6mm)! Good job! Did you take any pics?

550HP STSV
01-28-12, 01:39 PM
can we get pics or install instructions?

1BadCadSTS
01-29-12, 11:51 AM
Give me your extra roof spoiler and ill do your hvac for you.

Clusters taking some time to get too, been busy with work recently to start tearing into it...

550HP STSV
01-29-12, 07:43 PM
deal. whats your email address?

1BadCadSTS
01-29-12, 08:20 PM
Pm me. You'll be down the hvac for about a week I need it unless you want to buy a spare.

ddalder
01-29-12, 09:18 PM
So did you recalculate the value of the current limiting resistors and replace those also?

1BadCadSTS
01-29-12, 09:44 PM
just measured and used the right SMD Leds,

didnt really take pics of the process but will do so with the cluster (which will be much harder anyways)

ddalder
01-29-12, 09:58 PM
So you measured the voltage across the LED, measured the current in the circuit and found a drop in replacement? That would be very unusual when switching between colours. Different colour LED's generally have different electrical characteristics.

What manufacturer and part number for the LED's did you use?

1BadCadSTS
01-29-12, 10:40 PM
followed this...

http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_MMILED.html

http://i41.tinypic.com/255jaxl.jpg

pain in the ass to remove the whole dash to get the hvac out just for pics...

bought the LEDs, tested resistance out so close wasnt even worth messing with close enough and only slightly dimmer than the orange color change total worth it...

ddalder
01-30-12, 01:39 AM
Interesting article. The impression I have is the author has not had much experience with ohm's law. The question isn't so much whether the circuit will power the LED, it's what damage may occur if the forward current is too high because the resistor value has not been correctly computed or the LED selected is inappropriate for the application.

I'm assuming when you mentioned that you tested the resistance, you are referring to that of the LED. Diodes cannot be measured in this manner. They are a semiconductor through which (essentially) current either flows or doesn't. An ohm meter may bias the diode on, but you can't gain any helpful information from trying to measure resistance.

The forward bias current is the "force" behind the voltage required to turn on the junction (and in this case, illuminate the LED). The current rating (in this case in mA) must not exceed the value rated for the specific LED in question. Fortunately, many LED's have similar characteristics here. The way to achieve the correct current flow is by using a resistor. In this case, ohm's law will allow you to take the supply voltage, operating voltage of the LED(s) and forward bias current required to turn the LED on and compute a suitable resistor value. There is no value in attempting to measure the resistance of a diode. Although many LED's do have similar forward bias current ratings, the operating voltages do tend to change based on colour. Ohm's law will allow you to perform the calculations and select the right components to ensure everything operates within necessary parameters.

Hopefully you won't run into any problems.

550HP STSV
01-30-12, 11:57 AM
1BadCadSTS, I sent you a PM.

1BadCadSTS
01-30-12, 03:07 PM
got nothing?

nathanjax
01-30-12, 05:39 PM
OK, I was in the middle of looking to swap the cluster when I sold my STS last week, so I'll give you some info. It's an acutal screen in the cluster that has a ribbon attached. It's the same cluster/ribbon/screen thats in the DTS, only blue with white letters. You can NOT use a DTS cluster in the STS. All the lights light up like a christmas tree and those all kinds of codes.

I didn't remove anything from my DTS cluster (with the blue screen) or the spare STS cluster I have. If you want either or both, let me know. I'll sell them to you cheap instead of listing them on eBay.

Here are a couple pics...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/nathanjax/For%20Sale/3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/nathanjax/For%20Sale/2.jpg

1BadCadSTS
01-30-12, 06:30 PM
Ok so your saying that the screen for the DTS must be swapped to change the color, does it look as if they are swapable? I would only need the DTS cluster as I already have an extra STS cluster. Let me know!

I know the DTS has the PRND321 on the cluster, but the 08-09 SRX has the same looking cluster without the transmission indicator, not to mention the SRX and STS share a lot of the same components...

My HVAC looked the exact same and under the screen where the white plastic is boxed in is the SMD LEDs.

http://i40.tinypic.com/25rdmdc.jpg

nathanjax
01-30-12, 07:15 PM
Ok so your saying that the screen for the DTS must be swapped to change the color, does it look as if they are swapable? I would only need the DTS cluster as I already have an extra STS cluster. Let me know!

Yeah, it doesn't look like they are just LEDs. It looks like the entire screen needs to be swapped along with the ribbon. I haven't gone any further because I didn't want to go too far to make either cluster not resell-able.



I know the DTS has the PRND321 on the cluster, but the 08-09 SRX has the same looking cluster without the transmission indicator, not to mention the SRX and STS share a lot of the same components...

I noticed that researching this swap out.


You can email me at nathanandkatiec@gmail.com and we'll talk about sending you the cluster.

ddalder
01-30-12, 10:47 PM
I don't think it matters if the DTS cluster is PRND321 or not. This is a pixel based display so it can generate any message that the software directs the display driver to show. The question is really one of whether the display has the same number of rows and columns of pixels, along with the other physical and electrical characteristics.

Quite likely, the flexible printed circuit will detach at the display. I suspect the backlighting is what gives the display colour. If it's like any others I've ever seen, it will be LED's behind the display that need to be changed.

Subsailor613
01-31-12, 02:23 PM
This
followed this...

http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_MMILED.html

http://i41.tinypic.com/255jaxl.jpg

pain in the ass to remove the whole dash to get the hvac out just for pics...

bought the LEDs, tested resistance out so close wasnt even worth messing with close enough and only slightly dimmer than the orange color change total worth it...

Instead of replacing "EACH" individual LED, how about HOT glueing in a Strip of LED's, already set up for 12 V, "AND" you can cut
off what you need and attach the strip , with two wires, as ALL LEDS come on, and dim, together.
OH YEAH, dimming, almost forgot if strips are set up for dimming ! This way you (don't) have to pull the LED's OUT, just cut them away !:cool2::cool2::cool2:

ddalder
01-31-12, 11:54 PM
Instead of replacing "EACH" individual LED, how about HOT glueing in a Strip of LED's, already set up for 12 V, "AND" you can cut
off what you need and attach the strip , with two wires, as ALL LEDS come on, and dim, together.
OH YEAH, dimming, almost forgot if strips are set up for dimming ! This way you (don't) have to pull the LED's OUT, just cut them away !:cool2::cool2::cool2:
With all due respect, I don't believe you have the background and understanding about how this circuit works. What you're suggesting is definitely not recommended.

Subsailor613
02-03-12, 11:01 PM
OK, dd, I have been a Electronic technician for Over 50 years, that of course includes Vacuum Tubes.
All the LED's come on together, and Dim together...??

ddalder
02-04-12, 12:26 AM
OK, dd, I have been a Electronic technician for Over 50 years, that of course includes Vacuum Tubes.
All the LED's come on together, and Dim together...??
Yes.

LED's used as backlighting are always connected in series, not parallel (if done correctly). Because of the slight variation in manufacturing, you have the potential that some LED's will bias on before others if connected in parallel. This will cause uneven illumination across the array. This circuit has several branches of a few LED's connected to a driver. Dimming LED's in a predictible manner can't be done by varying the voltage up and down. Like I said before, these are solid state devices that are (basically) on or off. Dimming in these radios is achieved by logic providing a pulse width modulated signal to the LED arrays based on information received over the data bus. There is no "Backlamp Control" signal coming into the radio on a control line. Even if there was, in this case it would be a pulse width modulated signal from one of the body control modules, not a variable DC voltage.

Additionally, cutting SMT devices from a circuit board is very bad practice. The traces on these boards are quite fragile and doing this will cause a lot of grief.

----------

Here is an example of a circuit using 3 branches of series LED's controlled by a pulse width modulated signal generated by a 555 timer IC.

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/ne555-pwm-led-dimmer-circuit.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.reuk.co.uk/LED-Dimmer-Circuit.htm&h=237&w=385&sz=5&tbnid=-psVOeBeLVUjqM:&tbnh=86&tbnw=140&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dled%2Bdimming%2Bcircuit%26tbm%3Disch% 26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=led+dimming+circuit&docid=XZavwnPj5yZnkM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=47AsT7LdD6mbiAKv1YnfCg&sqi=2&ved=0CC0Q9QEwAQ&dur=4674