: Just got a 2009 CTS-V, multiple issues at under 7k miles, need help



Bigaaron-V
01-14-12, 12:42 PM
Hi! I just picked up a 2009 CTS-V two weeks ago "certified used" with only 5900 miles on it. It's absolutely like brand new inside and out. I love the car, don't get me wrong, but the initial quality seems to be lacking in several areas. I searched for common issues but a few I am having I haven't heard of before. This seems like it's the same case I had with some issues on my brand new 2011 2500HD truck, it's like the customers are the product testers for GM, and they don't even put a few thousand miles on their new vehicles before they are released to the public?

Issue #1) It has the polished 19" wheels, and when in a parking lot and making a slow sharp turn, it makes a very noticeable clicking/creaking sound from the front wheels. It sounded like it was coming from the wheel on the hub, so I checked the lug nuts and all of them were at only around 90-95 ft/lbs. On a CERTIFIED USED car they don't even check the damn lug nuts to make sure they are tight?!? I read that it should be 140ft/lbs, but after tightening them all to 140ft/lbs it still makes the same noise. It's very noticeable and very annoying. I heard there is a service campaign where they just clean the back of the old wheels and tighten the lug nuts, which seems like a lame fix for a poorly designed wheel and/or hub.

Issue #2) When going over any type of uneven surfaces, like driving up a driveway or going over anything that makes the rear suspension flex, it makes a loud groan/creek from the rear suspension. I have owned many many vehicles, and none of them sound this crappy when the suspension is flexed. When I go over something like a speed bump, the front suspension makes a similar noise. When I took a hard corner the other night, I heard a grinding type sound coming from the front end, but I couldn't tell if it was the wheels or the suspension.

Issue #3) When cruising at around 40mph and in automatic shifting mode, it bogs really noticeably at around 1500rpm, and it takes way too much throttle to get it to downshift. The auto shift mapping really needs adjustment at light throttle and lower speeds. It goes into 6th way to soon at low speed, and it doesn't want to downshift without quite a bit of throttle input. I never thought a 6.2L Supercharged V8 could feel like it was bogging down at 40mph, but this transmission can do it. :O

Issue #4) I was getting on an onramp and I gave it full throttle, and then when it started to really pull hard (not sure if it was 2nd or 3rd gear), all of a sudden there was a loss of acceleration, the transmission seemed to slip and the RPMs jumped way up, then two seconds later it felt like it popped back into gear hard and took off again. It wasn't the traction control, because there was no wheel spin, and the traction control light didn't flash. It has only done this once, and I have put about 1k miles on it already (including a drive from SoCal to Las Vegas, which was awesome because the passing power of this car is just crazy :) ).

I have an appointment to take it to the dealer on Monday, but I wanted to get any info I can before dropping it off, so that I am informed about what to look out for. I paid quite a bit of money to extend the full warranty out to 5 more years and/or 70k miles, but I never thought I would need warranty repairs on a basically new car with only 6k miles on it. :/

RippyPartsDept
01-14-12, 01:11 PM
#1) http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2009-cadillac-cts-v-general-discussion/243071-tsb-front-wheels-crabbing-under-full.html - read it fully ... there's a bit of an argument but it gets sorted out in the end

#2) try and figure out a way to reproduce it for your dealer so you can take the service guy or tech on a ride and show them so they can feel and hear it ... unless you can pinpoint the suspension component or area making the noise

#3) have you put the shifter into sport mode yet? there's various changes to how the trans. operates when the stick is shifted to the right and into sport mode

#4) mention it to your dealer and see what they have to say ... there might be a code storred in the TCM or something but if it doesn't happen again then it might just have been a fluke

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maybe some people who actually own one will have more to say

also do remember that while it's basically new it is also about 3 years old (maybe two if it was a late 2009 build)

LV_V
01-14-12, 02:43 PM
The best part of the CTS-V... these forums! Welcome!

#1) See above

#2) Sounds like a V1 issue. Have dealer check it out.

#3) Get a tune. PM Wait4Me.

#4) Get a tune. PM Wait4Me.

(My tablet has a difficult time with the input boxes on this forum but NOWHERE else. wtf...)

RippyPartsDept
01-14-12, 04:04 PM
also re: #4 i had a thought that maybe you hit the rev limiter ... that might produce what you talk about in #4

Bigaaron-V
01-15-12, 12:35 PM
Thanks for all the responses!

The wheels and suspension noises will be very easy to reproduce for a technician, it does it very often. The creaking sound comes directly from the wheel hub, not the rear diff. I had my girl turn it full lock and back up and then go forward many times slowly while I walked along side of the front wheels, it comes from the hub area for sure. When I tightened the wheels to the correct torque, it got slightly quieter but didn't go away.

The shifting at low speeds probably could be adjusted with some type of programmer, I just wouldn't want to mess up $3500 worth of extended warranty I have on the car.

When the transmission seemed to pop out of gear it was at a high engine load but only around maybe 3krpm, then the rpm jumped way up even though the car wasn't accelerating and the tires weren't loosing traction, then I lifted and it seemed pop back into gear. I am 100% sure it was not the rev limiter. My girl was in the car with me and we both looked at each other and said "what the hell was that?" The only thing I could think of is that I had only driven for a few blocks, and even though it's 70 deg outside here in California, maybe it wasn't up to operating temp yet? I'll check the fluid level, because I doubt anything was really checked or serviced on it when it was traded in.

Even though it isn't brand new, I put it on the lift and it doesn't even have water spots or dirt underneath the car, it's like it was parked in a garage for three years. I have a lowered 1988 Toyota Supra that makes 450whp and it doesn't make noises from the suspension or wheels like this 09 Caddy does. I also was invited to the CTS-V Performance Lab, and I drove 4 different cars really hard, and none of them made any wierd noises or did anything like what my V does.

HeavyH20
01-15-12, 12:42 PM
Check the tranny fluid level (dealer visit) since many have reported low fluid levels. I used to have the shift rpm slip bouncing the rev limiter until I had the fluid changed and, more importantly, fully topped. That was costing me 3 to 4 tenths in the quarter mile. The lag in regular drive is normal since that is mileage optimized. Just push the lever right to Sport Mode and that behavior goes away. I fixed the wheel click myself when I popped the wheels off. Blame cheap exposed iron rust build up for that so I cleaned and painted the centering hubs so they do not rust. The 140 ft/lbs torque is also important.

Gary Wells
01-15-12, 01:20 PM
The correct torque for the front wheels for the dealer TSB along with cleaning both mounting surfaces to correct the wheel clicking is 158 ft/lbs.

Bigaaron-V
01-15-12, 01:41 PM
I heard about that, but 158 ft/lbs seems too high for a 14mm stud.

HeavyH20
01-15-12, 04:57 PM
After I cleaned it and coated with a rust protectant, the original 140 ft/lbs works fine and no click. The 158 ft/lbs is a lot like using a bigger hammer and does not address the root cause.

Prof
01-15-12, 05:11 PM
Just wondering if you did any research before buying a used CTS V?

The wheel clicking is a pretty well documented issue, some of your other issues seem to indicate a need for a transmission adjustment...and the groan may well be an issue that is addressed by a service bulletin...

Prior knowledge often is the best protection when purchasing a used vehicle.

Cub Cadet
01-15-12, 07:52 PM
Sounds like more automatic transmission issues... this was exactly why I went with the manual transmission when I ordered my car. Zero issues on manual transmission cars so far.

Bigaaron-V
01-15-12, 09:12 PM
Just wondering if you did any research before buying a used CTS V?
Prior knowledge often is the best protection when purchasing a used vehicle.

First I drove the 6 speed coupe, and then the sedan with an automatic at 140mph on a banked oval at Fontana, then through the whole time attack course, and back around twice. I would say that's pretty good research. I looked at the forums and didn't see anything major to be worried about on the 2009 models. I don't think I should have expected to have all the possible issues on this car given the super low miles and all the raving that was going on about the CTS-V outstanding quality and such.

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Sounds like more automatic transmission issues... this was exactly why I went with the manual transmission when I ordered my car. Zero issues on manual transmission cars so far.

I don't want to scare anyone quite yet, other that one time it hasn't missed a beat. The bogging it does at low RPM makes sense if it is for fuel economy, and for the power it has on tap the fuel economy is pretty amazing. I guess I am a little nervous because I just spent $50k on a used car, and I didn't expect to have to do anything to it but change oil and tires for a long time.

Gary Wells
01-15-12, 09:33 PM
After I cleaned it and coated with a rust protectant, the original 140 ft/lbs works fine and no click. The 158 ft/lbs is a lot like using a bigger hammer and does not address the root cause.

If 158 ft/lbs. of torque doesn't address the root cause, then neither does the tightening to 140 ft/lbs. I don't think that the root cause is only 1 issue, as there have been about 20 or so threads on the wheel clicking issue and I have seen a few people identify what they thought was the root cause when they successfully fixed theirs. I don't think that Cadillac is known for identifying root causes and then telling people what it is. Just my thoughts about the subject.

HeavyH20
01-15-12, 10:41 PM
The pressure just counteracts the effects of surface contamination around the centering ring.

Bigaaron-V
01-16-12, 04:52 AM
140 ft/lbs is what was put in the service manual from the factory, and that is normal for 14mm studs. That's what I'm going with.
The real problem is that most mechanics only put 100 ft/lbs on the lug nuts when they change a tire or do a rotation.

roarkb
01-16-12, 08:01 AM
#2 Since it is January, it may be the tires actually slipping. These tires are warm weather tires and when cold they will pop and slip and seem like something is falling apart. For mine, it is very noticable on cold morning coming out of the driveway and turning. Not an issue during warm weather. This is not unique to the Caddie, several other cars I have owned with this type of tire would produce the same results.

#4 My bet is that you hit the rev limiter. I takes a while to get used to the raw acceleration that this car will produce. I hit the limiter several times early in my V driving career and I would decribe it just as you did. :)

Cadillac Cust Svc
01-16-12, 10:58 AM
Bigaaron-V,
Did you take your vehicle to the dealer this morning? Please keep us updated as to how this all turns out for you.
Breanne
Cadillac Customer Service

FastKat
01-20-12, 12:37 AM
Wow, 140 ft/lbs is really tight - I've never heard of a spec that high on car wheels before.

Prof
01-20-12, 03:59 AM
140 ft/lbs is what was put in the service manual from the factory, and that is normal for 14mm studs. That's what I'm going with.
The real problem is that most mechanics only put 100 ft/lbs on the lug nuts when they change a tire or do a rotation.

100 is what my Ram SRT 10 recommends with the same lugs and studs. 100 is what I use on my V2. No pblms with them in 50k. But I have never stayed in a Holiday Inn Express.

thebigjimsho
01-22-12, 07:32 PM
100 is what my Ram SRT 10 recommends with the same lugs and studs. 100 is what I use on my V2. No pblms with them in 50k. But I have never stayed in a Holiday Inn Express.

I stayed there this weekend in Detroit...