: 1985 eldorado biarritz won't start



bernier7
01-07-12, 09:50 PM
Sprayed starter fluid and it turned over and then dies

83CADMAN
01-09-12, 03:45 PM
Did it even try to fire.
Check the fuel pressure with a gauge.

carnut
01-11-12, 01:31 AM
Turning over to a mechanic means the starter rotates the engine. If you mean the car starts for a second then dies after you spray starting fluid, I would suspect a failed fuel pump, faulty oil pressure sender or connections to it or blown injector fuses. Did this car quit while driving or not start one morning? How much fuel is displayed on the gauge?

bernier7
01-11-12, 06:54 PM
Thanks... I have had it sitting for the last 10 years while I was in the Navy..I used come home and drive everymow and then..hasn't been run in 7 years. Fuel Gage said 10 and then 7...will try putting more gas and a additive to get the water out. I ll go and get a presure reader from the store

raiderromo
02-08-12, 07:22 PM
i am having the same issue with my 1983 cadillac eldorado v8 ht4100 250 hp.
i have done all kinds of repairs to it. fuel pump, fuel filter, full tune up. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, everything inside distributor (coil pack , module), air filter, changed coolant, oil, valve cover gaskets, map sensor, tps sensor, air temp sensor, coolant sensor, replaced any vaccum lines that looked bad, rebuilt the fuel injectors..still same problem. i can start with starting fluid but then dies. if i continue to spray fluid it stays on. talked to a mechanic online today which costed me $18.00 he seems to think that it might be my baro sensor (barometric). it is mounts on the passenger side under the dash together with the map sensor. at 1st i thought it was another map sensor...but after reading the repair manuel. when i was able to get code out of car using the a/c controlls...i was able to run a few diagnostics (was alittle confussing at first). i had to read over and over...then it clicked..was pretty easy. when through the 1st set of circuits and then when i got to the last one, it says to start car and turn wheels to check to make sure power steering is working correctly...but it goes out of diagnostics...anyways...i went back into diagnostics and it gave me two errors think it was 27 & 35 one is the tps...i then replaced it. the other was the baro sensor... it is somehow shorting out. so today i will take it down. mechanic said to disconnect it..it might be shorting the tps and map sensors because the are all wired some how on the same circuit..hopefully ecm computer didnt get damaged. i will clean all contacts at ecm computer and connections, make sure ground are secure (problem on these cars)..i am also going to clean ground connections grom battey to engine and body (also told usually have issues). i have thrown alot of money at this car, i hope i can finally get it run correctly again. any suggestions would help. if this doesnt work, i will have to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check pressure and then go from there.

83CADMAN
02-09-12, 12:40 PM
Ya, a pressure gauge would be good. The injectors might be worth looking at as well.

raiderromo
02-11-12, 12:57 PM
i found out what the problem was. you would never believe this. i had two different mechanics replace the fuel pump twice. i took down gas tank, emptied it was much as i could. its attached by two straps. un plugged all wires and hoses. pulled fuel pump out of the tank. (its inside the tank).
there is a metal piece on top where 3 hoses go. one is the main gas line to the throttle body, other is the return line, and the 3rd i believe is for the floater, to tell you how much gas in the tank. between this piece and the fuel pump there is a gas hose about 1 1/2" long. this hose was torn/cracked. i couldnt believe it with my own eyes. off course no one has this hose, so i took a piece of gas hose & cut it to size, installed with 2 brackets(it didnt have brackets)...i wanted to make sure that the connection was good. connected everything back up and did a volume test on inlet line at the throttle body...and wow..i have gas now. put everything back together...car started right up. nobody could find the problem...a guy who i paid $18.00 online helped guide me to the problem with the volume test. his name is Tracer at www.justanswer.com he is still helping me fine two my caddy. really cool guy i spent so much money throwing parts at this car...now i know that this site is for real. you dont have to pay them until your satisfied. dont buy a fuel pressure gauge...i did that and now i am out $60. on these cars there is something that doesnt allow you to do a pressure test at the throttle body. volume test is better. disconnect fuel inlet line at throttle boday. attach a hose with a clamp to the inlet fuel line at the throttle body. get something for fuel to flow into. turn on key for exacly 15seconds then turn key off. measure how much fuel you have. you show have about a pint of fuel. if you u dont, then you have something faulty in the fuel system. i check the relay and fuse right under the dash close to the steering column. there is a small box with a few relays and fuses. this is not the main fuse box. i took it down (2 torx screws) , took apart the back of it to test relay..fuse you can test from the front...its a 10 amp fuse.. the relay is the second relay from the driver door front left to right. these were fine. there are 3 wires at the tank. a ground (black) a green wire power (12volts)..and i think a orange or pink wire...i believe this wire is to tell the instrument panel how much fuel you have... i tested connections at the tank with key on. i had power and ground...(to test the fuel pump, i did use a fuel pressure tester) i rigged up the fuel pump in a bucket, connected the wires back up..and the pump seemed to work, but not that much pressure, when i looked closer i noticed that the hose was torn/cracked. replaced the hose and tried the test again, and got 12lbs of pressure... put fuel pump back in tank and put everthing back together and problem fixed. i didnt have to test pump with fuel pressure tester, but i had already bought it. now i just need to adjust the idle speed control..its clicking. same guy say they are tough to adjust..he said it not that easy even for him. hopefully we can get that resolved too.

carnut
02-11-12, 03:18 PM
Glad you found the hose. Amazing especially after 2 pumps! Most pumps come with a new hose and clamps. On the ISC, with the car running and fully warmed up, push on the ISC shaft with some force.It will retract. Once retracted quickly disconnect its wire harness, then verify .030 gap between it and the throttle arm. Adjust the shaft as necc. to get this gap. Then shut car off, reconnect harness. Assuming the TPS is correctly set, you should have the proper idle speed and no ratcheting of the gas pedal once you shut the car off.

83CADMAN
02-13-12, 01:38 PM
Wow! My 83 Eldo with the HT4100 TB DFI fuel system has a pressure test port right on the fuel inlet line near the TB. I paid 20 bucks on a gauge set at harbor freight.
I tell you what! I'd be talking to the two different so-called mechanics that twice didnít install the new fuel pump hose that came with the replacement fuel pump. Unbelievable!
Obviously you are not a mechanic, and neither are I, but you figured it out once you rechecked their work. You had trusted them; that they knew what they were doing and you paid them for it. Sorry you had to undo everything they did and redo it right, not to mention the wild goose chase looking for a fault that would have, or should have been corrected if they had installed the pump correctly the first time.
As far as volume test, old technique for mechanical fuel pump test. On injected engines pressure not volume is what feeds these engines.
With a cracked or dislodged pump hose inside the tank, the pump will just cycle the gas right back into the tank relieving pressure, thus overworking the pump trying to maintain the required pressure to feed the injectors. Any fuel that does make it out and past the fuel filter will at least show a low-pressure read at the test port.
BTW the third hose at the fuel tank is to the evap canister.
To anyone and everyone out there:
Always demand the mechanic produce the old pump and HOSE when having this repair preformed.
I feel your pain. I too have experienced the school of hard knocks with my 83 and it was worth it.
The ISC and TPS adjustments can be frustrating but are very doable. Listen to carnutís advise.
Get a FSM, learn, and keep that cash in your pocket, plus you will sleep better knowing its done correct.
Enjoy and drive your Caddy daily.
Got pictures?