: Couple of Concerns...



maiahsdad
01-06-12, 09:58 PM
Test drove 2006 STS V8 today. I am prepared to purchase on Monday but I'm scared out of my. Hair on a couple things: 1. Sounds like a diesel to me compared to my 99 I just sold. I thought it was the valves rattling or spark-knocking or something. With windows rolled up and radio off, it sorta sounds like a diesel school bus (if thistles sense) both accelerating and idling. . 2. When shifting from R to D, I hear and feel this hard "thunk" in the rear. Ta like it snatches into gear like we would expect if the RPMs were raised somewhat. Now, shifting FROM D to R is as smooth as silk. It's just from N or R to D.

The dealer said the diesel sound is just the way it sounds, and that this change of body style from my 99 STS puts the engine closer to me and I hear those sounds. He says it's normal. And the hard snatch into gear sounds like the rear hubs since its not vibrating during travel. I wonder why it would only act this way going from R to D, and NOT visa versa.

The car has 100k Lila and looks like new. And the ride is excellent, and the WOT showed no carb buildup.

Any ideas? Am I just paranoid?

Subsailor613
01-06-12, 10:08 PM
Just a couple of things, check the sticker that reminds you when to change the oil, and compare that with the Odometer.
Couple that with the Engine Oil Monitor , in the Drivers Info Center (DIC).
Look in the Glove box, to see if there are any oil receipts, when the oil has been changed in the past.
It MAY NEED an oil change bad, if it does, do you want to buy a car that has NOT had regular maintenance ?:cool2::cool2::cool2:
100K maintenance requires changing the Transmission, and Anti-Freeze fluids,
Spark Plugs, Tuneup, And Battery ? And some other stuff.
How did you observe the WOT ?
Good Luck.

maiahsdad
01-06-12, 10:56 PM
How did you observe the WOT ?
Good Luck. friend of mine followed in his car while I performed it.

So what about the "hard thud or snatch" I witnessed. I used to get the same sound when I put my automatic tranny pro stock S10 in gear. It would chirp the tires every time I dropped it into gear because of the torque. THIS is not normal for it to spam like this I don't believe. It dsnt bark the rear wheels but it "thunks" pretty hard.

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The VIN is: 1G6DC67A460125072

dkozloski
01-07-12, 01:08 AM
There is a rubber bushing that anchors the differential that wears out and the result is a thunk when shifting into gear.

C&C
01-07-12, 04:51 AM
Any warranty involved with this vehicle, is the dealer you mention a Cadillac dealer; maybe put your concerns in writing and have the dealer honor any (down the road) occurrences involved (within reason; stipulated in the contract). Some of the sounds you describe don't sound normal.

maiahsdad
01-07-12, 05:27 AM
Any warranty involved with this vehicle, is the dealer you mention a Cadillac dealer; maybe put your concerns in writing and have the dealer honor any (down the road) occurrences involved (within reason; stipulated in the contract). Some of the sounds you describe don't sound normal.No warranty with the vehicle, and no he's not a Caddy dealer. He's a VERY small auto shop that gets most of his cars from his good friend at the Buick dealer around the corner. In this small town, there are mostly elderly couples, and a few business people. I met the owner of the vehicle, who says he had road miles on the car, and that he's had it since late 05, and that it's given him no problems. He traded it for a brand new Buick. So, he's giving it to me for $10700 plus 7% sales tax. No other charges... if I want the car. And I REALLY do. But I'll be using my next vehicle to do monthly visits to see my grandmother back in NC. And I DO NOT need problems right out the gate.

I don't really want a RWD car, especially traveling back and forth through the mountains, but I know how to navigate the snow pretty well. Wish I could find an AWD for that price.

Check the car out. It's located here (http://www.franksautoinc.com/newandusedcars/19/1477039/24ccd564-61e3-402b-8808-5f9c766dbd4b/none/2006-Cadillac-STS-Anderson-IN-46016.aspx).

chazglenn3
01-07-12, 09:54 AM
It sounds like a lot of money for a car without either of the performance option packages or the wood trim option. For that money I would expect to get either a Luxury Performance (1SF) or Premium Luxury Performance (1SG) car that includes the HID headlights, limited-slip differential and magnetic ride control. The label under the spare tire cover shows all of the option codes. I can tell it isn't a 1SF or 1SG car because HID equipped cars have headlamp washers and this car doesn't. And the wood package includes wood steering wheel, shift knob and wood on the door panels. Nice grille, but it wasn't "$1,000+" like the ad states...they are about $500. My car does NOT sound like a diesel and only makes a bit of noise when cold. It also does NOT clunk into gear. I have 101K miles on mine.

Charles

mckellyb
01-07-12, 02:18 PM
FWIW, they don't sound like this, normally, and it has not a thing to do with how far away the engine is from your ears.

This shop likely gets cars from the dealer around the corner said dealer cannot put on his used lot for a profit. Danger, Will Robinson.

The price had better be quite good, IMO.

Oh, wait...it's not.

Move along, let this one go.

dkozloski
01-07-12, 05:29 PM
My '06 AWD V8 1SF STS has as much valve train noise as a high milage '51 Oldsmobile. At an idle it's very quiet but at about 1200 RPM it starts to sound off.

malatu
01-07-12, 06:27 PM
Fall out of love with it and move on. Look around, they are a dime a dozen.

maiahsdad
01-08-12, 06:12 AM
But others are completely out of my price range and are really far away. I'm so discouraged. I want an STS V8 with NAV. But I only have 10K. His one is 10,700 if I want it. I can't afford another week of renting. I don't want to settle for something else. And I don't want to inherit a problem that will cost half of the car. I want to be able to drive it for awhile without major surgery needs. And I'm only off work Sunday thru Tuesdays. I don't have much time. Rental goes back Tuesday.

malatu
01-08-12, 11:44 AM
You might be setting yourself up for some major disappointment, financially and emotionally, if this car has some hidden problems. You might want to step back and prioritize what's "logically" most important to you in your life right now. It sounds like reliability and the ability to finance potential repairs of this car (that's out of warranty) need to be weighed carefully. Dude, it's only a car!

mckellyb
01-08-12, 12:13 PM
Short-term solution.

Craigslist + $1K = beater car which needs to last, max, 12 months.

EChas3
01-08-12, 05:39 PM
Malatu is right. Any used luxury car comes with the risk of an expensive repair. An STS may not be as expensive as German make but expect to pay a premium price for service. Consider an extended warranty (or repair allowance) as part of the cost of ownership.

Even if you choose to ignore that advice, make sure to buy an STS that is equipped the way you want it. Upgrading an STS can be expensive and/or impractical. What may be a great deal of difference between trim levels & options may not affect the price that much. You don't want to buy a car that keeps you wishing for more.

dkozloski
01-08-12, 07:07 PM
As a Cadillac owner be prepared to pay the "Cadillac Tax" with any transaction involving the car.

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Once bitten by the Cadillac "bug" there is no cure. There's no way to be talked out of it.

maiahsdad
01-08-12, 08:04 PM
Once bitten by the Cadillac "bug" there is no cure. There's no way to be talked out of it. that's my problem.

maiahsdad
01-08-12, 10:05 PM
I really want the car. But not sure how to approach it. The dealer says there's. Or a lot of wiggle room on price. He came down from $11775 to $10700 cash. I don't know if that price sucks or not. But it's close, and I need a car fast. But afraid I won't b able to get another one I'd I exhaust my financing on one that I don't want. I don't want to throw good cash after bad.

Discouraged.

vinndiesel
01-08-12, 10:52 PM
i agree with the other members about buying a car and wanting more....to good to be true...and keep in mind these cars had some issues with the torque convertors...lot of money if you cant repair yourself... and the northstar shouldnt sound like a diesel...although they can be noisy appond start up they should queit out after warm up....be afraid ....be very afraid......

rnkath08
01-08-12, 11:29 PM
I love my caddy, but I also put it up every winter so I can love it even longer by not seeing winter and road salt...that being said I have two winter beaters that are safe sound and solid...so if it were me, I'd buy something reliable and basic given that you don't have a lot of extra $$$ per your post...save up some and look longer. I agree that my Caddy is the best ride in the park, but if it doesn't feel solid (and the one you're describing does not sound like a good risk) then wait...keep looking and the car you should have will show itself in time....

maiahsdad
01-09-12, 07:51 AM
Even if you choose to ignore that advice, make sure to buy an STS that is equipped the way you want it. Upgrading an STS can be expensive and/or impractical. What may be a great deal of difference between trim levels & options may not affect the price that much. You don't want to buy a car that keeps you wishing for more.But I see that you've got TWO that fit that description, and I can't find ONE. I don't know what 1SE or SG is. Hell, I can't find an STS V8 ANWHERE that I don't have to pay $2000 to get it shipped to me.

All these others I meet in here and other sites CONTINUE to tell me of STS V8's they've found for WAY less that I can find. Like a 2007 V8 with 55K miles for 8K. It has NAV, XM, and EVERYTHING else including the heated steering wheel. And I NEED to make these dollars count, and not throw them at 1K dollar cars to put 3K into to keep it running.

scott9001
01-09-12, 09:20 AM
ill sell you a good old 1997 deville for when your looking and to save some money up its not a real gem anymore but she gets ya there! haha joking i use it for the winter to keep my 05 looking good! my northstar is quiet i have a verry little amount of noise at start up but goes away liek 10 seconds in and its not even noticiable to the average ear. i searched for like 4 months for the car i wanted, it doesent come over night. origanaly i wanted a 05+ cts-v test drove two and wasent in love as much as i thought i was going to be. drove a newer sts i was tire kicking it was out of my price range but it drove so much better. i then looked for like 2 months for a sts and found one about 2.5 hours away in etobicoke ontario and all i have to say is everything happens for a reason! walk into that dealer with $8000 and say want to make a deal if not oh well your not out anything. btw how can you not aford to rent again if your buying a new car? are you sure financials are right here to be buying a cadillac

Midnight
01-09-12, 10:58 AM
Here's my thread on diff bushing replacement: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-sts-forum-2005-through-2012/243343-differential-bushing-replacement.html

That could be the thunking noise as someone mentioned earlier (it might be something else too, but this is a part that seems to wear out pretty frequently). What this also will do is when "parading" at a low speed between 1st and 2nd gears, when the engine is driving the car in 2nd and then it goes to 1st and the car pushes the engine and the torque in the bushing changes, you'll get a loud thunk. When the torque is constant there's no thunk. It's not too hard to get under there and check if you're handy.

I've never heard my V8 sound like a diesel, that would concern me, I don't think it's normal.

Also be wary of what people say about "cheap" STS's. If it's a lot less than what somewhere like carmax seems to have, it's probably an exaggeration, or it's been wrecked and repaired, or some other bad news (sounds like a diesel for example, lol), or very rarely someone just found an exceptional deal. "If it sounds too good to be true" right? 2008 V8's with nav with ~40k seem to be going for $23-24k ish.

mckellyb
01-09-12, 11:46 AM
And I NEED to make these dollars count, and not throw them at 1K dollar cars to put 3K into to keep it running.

This is a crucial aspect commonly misunderstood about "beater" cars. Select wisely, and do absolutely minimal things to them. Put gas in it, change the oil every 8K miles, put air in the tires.

If there is a large pending failure, or it already happened, and it costs $800 to repair, sell it for $300, move on to another one. Let's say this car lasted 12 months and you paid $1K for it. Even if you can't sell it for scrap, i.e. a return of $0, it still cost you $83/mo. That's less than any car payment.

Okay, so you threw $200 worth of spark plugs into it and fixed a clunk in the front-end. You're still at $100/mo.

I have a 1995 Mercedes E320 which cost me $3K, four years ago. I put 22K miles on that car, and did nothing to it other than stuff I wanted to 'cause I thought I was going to keep it for another five years. That didn't happen, though I still have it. I made the mistake of getting attached to it.

This car didn't have a working reverse if it was more than 40F outside, or had been driven in the past few hours, but it's been that way for four years, I have no intention of repairing it. The cost is prohibitive, even if I do it myself ($600-$700 in parts and a weekend under the beast).

If I amortize this car out over the 40 months I drove it, even with the $600 worth of front-end/suspension parts I put in because I was going to keep it 'till it died, $90/mo. Y'know what, I put plug wires, plugs, and had to replace an ignition coil. That was another $200. Still sub-$100/mo.

I'm tempted to just junk it, but the front-end has less than 8 months on it, new tie-rod ends, center link, steering damper, anti-roll bar bushings, new struts/shocks, strut mounts, etc., but it'd be the perfect ride for a kid who is on his/her first or second car. Everything, except reverse, works. A/C is cold, heat is hot, radio is modern, the interior is immaculate. It starts Every. Single. Time. Even after it's been sitting for four months with nothing but a tank of Sta-bil'd gas and a battery charger as 'maintenance'.

EChas3
01-10-12, 10:21 PM
My wife bought our 2007, first. It has some N* valve noise. I don't worry and it runs great.

I bought my 2006 because I couldn't find anything better for the price. It's the best car deal I ever made.

rnkath08
01-11-12, 05:05 PM
again, the mom in me is giving you what I think is good advice....buy something inexpensive and reliable then save for the Caddy you want. You also want to know what the 1SE means, vs the other options, because you want to get the things you want once and for all. I had my caddy shipped from Ohio to NYS for under $400, so in addition if you buy at a distance you need to work to find a good shipper/price. I understand you are in a hurry and need something good to drive, but you can get some amazing cars that will last many years in the $5-$6k range, then use that time to save and find what you like, then you can sell your other car out and not be out much when you do find the right caddy. I have an 02 ford explorer sport with a salvage title that is starting winter #3 that I got for $600, and an 02 envoy with all the bells and whistles that I got for $6k. Either way you'd have some emergency money set aside should you need car repairs or other life emergencies come up. Now do I need 5 cars? no, but I have teenagers...ughhhh.
Also, if you aren't looking for awd, remember than many folks with rwd do put their cars up for winter (I do my awd but that's only because I'm a little nuts)...so once April/May comes you'll see more out on the road for sale. Just a thought....

maiahsdad
01-21-12, 05:50 AM
OK Everyone, I'm on my way to KDK Auto Brokers on Monday. It's a 7hr Greyhound bus ride, and I'll be plenty cranky when I get there. They're holding an 05 STS-V8 there for me. There's a LOT to get worked out.

1. Gotta get someone to drop me off downtown Indy at the bus station at midnight Sunday night. 2. Gotta find a way over TO KDK from Greyhound when I GET to Cleveland (they're in Brunswick.... wherever that is). 3. I'll get there at 0715hrs and they don't open til 10am, so I'll have to find somewhere to go in a town I know NO ONE, and NO PLACE.

I need some counsel here:
They offer two tiers of paid warranty packages. I was thinking that an 05 STS with 95K needs a warranty package (although I didn't have one on my 99 at all, but no extreme repairs were needed either in the 2.5 years I had it).

The warranty company is called Preferred Warranties Inc. The warranty brochure is located HERE (https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment?ui=2&ik=77842ecf9d&view=att&th=134c4245b0708c04&attid=0.1&disp=inline&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P8pJLlEYaEkk58b4JzyFpIY&sadet=1327141711452&sads=MUxA6Ui62sRtNA2SyLd9zMwZi1s&sadssc=1). So, I need you guys to weigh in here. I'm wondering how important it is to purchase a warranty, and if there are other companies that will warranty the vehicle for less. I'm not having the greatest success in my searches, and I've been working 14-hr days because of the increased call volume at my job (it's tax season).

They offer two options.
-$1400 will get me powertrain only. But the mileage is unlimited. It's a 3-year warranty.
-$2400 will get me all of it (window motors, computer, etc.). It's a 3-year warranty as well, BUT... the mileage is only up to 40K miles.

I don't really get it. I don't understand WHY a THOUSAND additional dollars ADDED to the 1st tier DECREASES the mileage.... I asked and they said... "It's just the way this warranty company works."

So, I'm wondering if I need to spend the extra cash when I get there on this warranty? Try to find another company that will give me the full coverage for less money? Or just forget the warranty entirely. Some friends and colleagues weighed in and it was a mixed bag.
1. "It's a Caddy and the parts are VERY expensive. GET the FULL warranty."
2. "It's an AWD Caddy and those things cost a LOT if something happends to the AWD system. More than the car'll be worth. GET the FULL warranty."
3. "I've owned four Caddys and have NEVER gotten any warranty, and the repairs have been very affordable." FORGET ANY warranty.
4. "You'll be putting a lot of road miles on the car. Get the BASE warranty. The computers don't go out on these cars. They just blow head gaskets." Get the BASE warranty if head gaskets are covered.
5. "You need the FULL warranty, but this company's grossly taking advantage of you BIG time for $2400. Get the FULL warranty.... from somewhere else cheaper."

What say you guys and gals here? I have to make the decision by Monday morning while walking from Cleveland to Brunswick in the ice cold weather.

Thanks.

chazglenn3
01-21-12, 09:44 AM
That car looks like a MUCH better deal. The only options it doesn't have are the adaptive cruise control and heads up display. It appears to be a 1SG car...nice! If you don't have lots of money to pay for repairs, at 95K I would highly recommend an extended warranty. I bought the extended warranty for my car from Nation Warranty after doing lots of research. This is the web site http://www.nwarranty.com and they have a tool free number that you can call and get a quote. The coverages have changed since I bought mine, but the Gold package is probably affordable. Also, they are selling you a car...call them today and arrange for the salesman that is making the deal to pick you up. Even if you have to find a Denny's and wait until they open...the salesman NEEDS to pick you up. It's his commission. The website says airport pick up is no problem, so worse case take the bus to the airport.

maiahsdad
01-21-12, 01:03 PM
That car looks like a MUCH better deal. The only options it doesn't have are the adaptive cruise control and heads up display. It appears to be a 1SG car...nice! If you don't have lots of money to pay for repairs, at 95K I would highly recommend an extended warranty. I bought the extended warranty for my car from Nation Warranty after doing lots of research. This is the web site http://www.nwarranty.com and they have a tool free number that you can call and get a quote. The coverages have changed since I bought mine, but the Gold package is probably affordable. Also, they are selling you a car...call them today and arrange for the salesman that is making the deal to pick you up. Even if you have to find a Denny's and wait until they open...the salesman NEEDS to pick you up. It's his commission. The website says airport pick up is no problem, so worse case take the bus to the airport.

I am just fear warranty caps may still leave me bight and dry if the repair is large enough.

Neutrocuted
01-21-12, 01:18 PM
This VIN, 1G6DC67A460125072 was a rental in Hawaii first, then came state side to Michigan first, then bounced around the midwest to different dealers and a lot of auctions. I'd keep away from that one. Do you know the VIN on this one you're looking at? I can run a CarFax on it for you.

chazglenn3
01-21-12, 01:50 PM
As far as I can tell, this is the VIN for the car he is going to buy 1G6DC67A250164838 looks like it has been an Ohio car all of its life. One fender bender reported back in 2006.

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I am just fear warranty caps may still leave me bight and dry if the repair is large enough.

Well, I'm planning to take my car in soon to have the water pump replaced, rear window switch replaced, and the front struts replaced all under warranty. I certainly hope they don't try to jerk me around. My paperwork says that struts are covered but I hope MRC struts are. The deductible is $100.

Neutrocuted
01-21-12, 01:57 PM
As far as I can tell, this is the VIN for the car he is going to buy 1G6DC67A250164838 looks like it has been an Ohio car all of its life. One fender bender reported back in 2006.

Looks like you've got it covered! This one looks a lot better IMHO.

KRSTS
01-21-12, 02:53 PM
Looks like a fair deal. I would definitely get a warranty

turnne
01-21-12, 03:39 PM
This is a crucial aspect commonly misunderstood about "beater" cars. Select wisely, and do absolutely minimal things to them. Put gas in it, change the oil every 8K miles, put air in the tires.

If there is a large pending failure, or it already happened, and it costs $800 to repair, sell it for $300, move on to another one. Let's say this car lasted 12 months and you paid $1K for it. Even if you can't sell it for scrap, i.e. a return of $0, it still cost you $83/mo. That's less than any car payment.

Okay, so you threw $200 worth of spark plugs into it and fixed a clunk in the front-end. You're still at $100/mo.

I have a 1995 Mercedes E320 which cost me $3K, four years ago. I put 22K miles on that car, and did nothing to it other than stuff I wanted to 'cause I thought I was going to keep it for another five years. That didn't happen, though I still have it. I made the mistake of getting attached to it.

This car didn't have a working reverse if it was more than 40F outside, or had been driven in the past few hours, but it's been that way for four years, I have no intention of repairing it. The cost is prohibitive, even if I do it myself ($600-$700 in parts and a weekend under the beast).

If I amortize this car out over the 40 months I drove it, even with the $600 worth of front-end/suspension parts I put in because I was going to keep it 'till it died, $90/mo. Y'know what, I put plug wires, plugs, and had to replace an ignition coil. That was another $200. Still sub-$100/mo.

I'm tempted to just junk it, but the front-end has less than 8 months on it, new tie-rod ends, center link, steering damper, anti-roll bar bushings, new struts/shocks, strut mounts, etc., but it'd be the perfect ride for a kid who is on his/her first or second car. Everything, except reverse, works. A/C is cold, heat is hot, radio is modern, the interior is immaculate. It starts Every. Single. Time. Even after it's been sitting for four months with nothing but a tank of Sta-bil'd gas and a battery charger as 'maintenance'.

wow..I would almost say you bought the E320 a buddy of mine traded in

based on the tranny issues ..when you said you bought it and your location...

that being said

I agree with you on the beater thing

However....most any luxury car that has a lot of electronics( unless its a Lexus/Acura product) is not a good candidate IMO for a beater

way too much that the car needs for day to day safe driving that could go wrong on an old Cadillac

You are much better off with a mid line Toyota/Honda product

and yes..I know they cost more used than Cadillacs do

But still...a old Cadillac sounds like a Pandora's box used as a beater


Warren

is the car black pearl with parchment interior?

maiahsdad
01-21-12, 05:49 PM
Looks like you've got it covered! This one looks a lot better IMHO.

We're U able to get a Carfax? The company has one online but want to make sure it's true.

EChas3
01-21-12, 07:30 PM
At that point in a car's useful life, the insurance company will profit on average. (Manufacturer's extended warranty plans may have other motivations, such as product price support.) Say 10 of us do the same sort of deal and overall, we will pay more for warranties than the insurance company will pay out (after adjusting for the time value of money). Actuarial tables are never wrong and solid companies don't fail due to underwriting warranties. Warranties are insurance.

For buyers, a warranty helps fix you costs. (In financial terms it lessens risk.) Few people are wealthy enough to self-insure for all of life's risks. The wealthy need insurance even more because they often leverage investments and need the security of insurance.

Overall, a plan that is written with "inclusions' is inferior to a plan written with 'exclusions'. In other words, covering 'everything except x, y & z' is usually worth more than 'covers a, b & c'. But there are a lot of different plans and a lot of bogus companies. If an unexpected bill for $2,000 will make you walk, you need protection. The highest deductable you can afford will reduce the cost and/or increase maximum caps.

chazglenn3
01-22-12, 09:53 AM
The one the company has online is legit, but if you are worried buy one yourself from Carfax...I think one costs about $20.

mckellyb
01-22-12, 01:03 PM
is the car black pearl with parchment interior?

Nope. Silver/black interior.

What's funny is, it still feels more 'solid' than the STS does, even with 10 more years on it.

maiahsdad
01-22-12, 02:45 PM
Thanks. Now it's sounding like I need a full warranty. The company they suggest is here: http://www.warrantys.com/Downloads/B...h_AllPlans.pdf

It's an additional $2400 for the best coverage. Please all take a look at this and tell me what U think. I leave tonite on Greyhound on my way. The company website is: http://www.warrantys.com

Lots of weigh-ins here talk of the possible intelligent door handle sensors quitting and are a money pit, and the shocks and drivetrains for these AWD vehicles. Take a look at the warranty information and give me ur thoughts please. I leave on greyhound one way at midnight on my way to Cleveland.

EChas3
01-22-12, 04:26 PM
The nature of a car forum exposes a lot of faults. Few owners take the time to post about trouble-free miles. Does the STS have issues... Yes. Do all of them? No.

I think an extended warranty is a great idea. Mine have saved me money. They don't always. But they do cap the cost of ownership.

Have a great trip.

maiahsdad
01-22-12, 04:35 PM
Thanks. Looking at it. I guess I also fear the coverage caps. Don't want to be in that situation where I pay $2400, have issue where they cap $1000 on a repair that's $2500. Then I'm still out now additional $1500 on top of $2400 I paid. That's what scares me. Or that the coverage sounds general now and becomes specific after I need work done. Or if 3 things happen his year but I'm only allowed two things. That $2400 can just help pay for the repairs.

Well see. Thanks for all ur help.