When I pulled the main bolts the first time I considered myself very fortunate that I only saw a couple theads come out with the bolts. Once everything was buttoned up I found out that I had to change the windage tray. I gingerly loosened up the bolts, unscrewed them by hand, put them back in as gently as I could and wouldn't you know it, I went to torque #1 and it stripped out...pardon me for a sec while cuss this thing...#)#&*()@!#.
If anyone's got a main bolt timesert kit they would let me borrow or rent for a N* I'd really appreciate it. I don't know how much the kits are to buy but I'm sure @ this point they're more than I can afford.
11-07-04, 02:50 AM
It goes from bad to worse, huh...???
It can be fixed. Use the timeserts. It is very rare to have a problem with the main bolts as the material that they are tapped into is very solid and the bolts do not see nearly the same load from thermalcycling as the head bolts do.
I wonder if the bolts you have are a bit short what with the different plate and such that you serviced with... Is the plate thicker at the bolt engagement area so that the thread engagement is less or something.??
Just looking at the 2 they look the same. I've got a mic laying around here somewhere and I'll get some measurments today. Only one bolt has stripped and wouldn't you know it, it's the one that holds the leg to the oil pick up tube. All the rest of the bolts screwed in all the way by hand and I think they're ok but just to be on the safe side I think I should do all of them. One other thought did occur to me. If this thing stripped out this easy without being run, do you think that this would have caused the bolt to fail under load? I'm not too keen on drilling and tapping in a block thats got all the guts in it but I think with a lot of masking tape and newspaper I can block everything off.
11-07-04, 02:59 PM
I've used a shop vac hose running alongside the point of attack to catch stray chips in a situation like yours where I didn't want to do a complete teardown.