: Northstar removal



neo126
12-07-11, 09:00 PM
Got a quick question. I have unbolted the engine on the front and rear mounts. It is also unbolted from tranny and torque converter. The engine will still not come out what am I missing.

ternstes
12-08-11, 01:39 PM
Did you unbolt ALL the brackets and braces as well? Are you using a factory service manual for reference?

neo126
12-08-11, 02:26 PM
I do not have a FSM. The front mount is unbolted the mount behind the engine is unbolted the trans and torque converter is unbolted. There r only four bolts on the transmission correct. Btw this is a 94 sts. I heard there is a hidden bracket somewhere on the transmission.

iflipcars
12-08-11, 03:20 PM
Neo,

Look at this pic, I chose 1994 Seville for this pic at www.gmpartsgiant.com. It's a great resource for diagrams (thanks vincentm !). LINK (http://www.genmotorinfo.com/Picture.aspx?ccId=183003776&ppId=31680151&ppInfo=1994++++++E%2cK%2cEngine+%26+Transmission+M ounting-V8%2c(LD8%2f4.6Y%2cL37%2f4.6-9)+-+6M00018)

The part with IDs 14 and 16 is the tricky guy. Take off passenger wheel and look between engine and transmission to see this bracket. Also, what you are calling the "rear engine mount" is really a combo mount that is bolted to engine and transmisssion, also viewable through passenger wheel area.

Also, there is a brace between the oil pan and transmission with four bolts on the direct bottom, easily removed. Don't forget it. All of these are in the diagram.

Hope this helps.

neo126
12-08-11, 03:43 PM
Ok now it is all off how do I lift the engine around the tranny to get it off the locating pins. Do I need to brace and support the tranny at all

iflipcars
12-08-11, 03:58 PM
I just pulled mine last night. If you have done everything necessary, you lift the motor enough for the front cradle mount studs to come out of cradle, then push engine away from trans ....either by a few violent pushes on the chains holding the engine or VERY CAREFUL use of a prybar. Once flywheel is outside trans case, its a wiggle, pry look around engine constantly every few hoist pumps to ensure all is good and gradually lift it out. Keep in mind this is assuming you have disconnected everything u need to....without a FSM or a alldatadiy.com account, the chances of you catching everything are slim if you are not experienced. No need to support tranny, it has a mount behind it, aka driver side and it shares the rear cradle mount. it wont go anywhere with those two mounts intact.

neo126
12-08-11, 06:44 PM
Well here is a scary thought for anybody who has done this for years. This is the first engine pull I have ever done.

Submariner409
12-08-11, 08:54 PM
Hell of a learning curve, ain't it ???

The first engine I pulled, in about 1954, landed on the garage floor. Dad made me cough up my paper route money to replace the oil pan.

iflipcars
12-08-11, 09:20 PM
hell of a learning curve, ain't it ???

The first engine i pulled, in about 1954, la-nded on the garage floor. Dad made me cough up my paper route money to replace the oil pan.

lol, sub !! My first engine pull was a 1971 pinto stationwagon. I pulled 2.0, replaced with 2.3, found out 2.3 doesn't fit in that year, ....16yrs old, upset, custom engine mounts, couple weeks later its in and I finally start it, it runs good !! I rebuilt whole engine myself, lots of go fasties on cyl head ....im exctied as hell. Then i shut it down and it wouldnt start again. Not even a pop. Luckily it wasn't an interference engine cuz i forogot to tighten the timing belt tensioner :)


Anyways, I had to scrub the garage floor cuz i made a hell of a mess....Mom was hella POed :)

lol, gearheads from the start, it was all very emotional for me....but I'm weird :)

---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:12 PM ----------

Alright, Neo. IMO, you should read your butt off on here, use wikipedia/google for definitions etc, read the acronym list sticky, then read your butt off again, on this forum.

Get a FSM(Factory Service Manual) !!! I looked it up on ebay "FSM 1998 cadillac" and got one sent to my door, installed on computer easily and works great for 13.99 and I think shipping was free.

How much mechanic experience do you have? I have to ask so you don't hurt yourself, did u disconnect battery? that is first and don't forget to disconnect the fuel lines from engine etc....AFTER the battery is REMOVED, we don't want you burning yourself to death, before i run the risk of insulting you, just answer how much you do know about cars :) :bouncy::bouncy:

neo126
12-09-11, 02:59 PM
lol the battery was the first thing disconnected and removed from the car before any work started. I don't get insulted easily. The fuel lines were disconnected second. I have some experience but I am only 19 so I have a ways to go. I have read this forum left right right side up and down and backwords. Ive been studying the Northstar since I was 10 and have always been fasinated with it.

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 PM ----------

Ok sry for the short response had lunch in the oven. There are two versions of the northstar in the 90s the 9 and the Y the difference is the intake cams. I cna't remember the the engine names were but it will come to me later. If we are relating to specifics STS SLS Deville Devill Concours etc. then I can explain them. The other difference between the 9 and y is horse power and torque. The 9 produces 300HP at 296ft-lb, the y produces 276 HP at 300ft-lb. To compensate for the different in torque the gearing ratios are different in the transmissions that are hooked up to the engines. These are just the basics of what I am explaining I can go into more detail if you would like.

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:50 PM ----------

Inside the engine is a beautiful design. The block design is interesting due to the main bearing caps aka the halfcase. Instead of being one solid block it is slit in half. The valve train timing is kept by a timing chain which shouldn't need to be set unless disturbed. The chains are kept tight by hydraulic tensioners. The ignition system for the engine uses waste spark, meaning that two spark plugs are firing at the same time just one is on the exhaust stroke and the other is on the compression stroke. This system uses a distributorless ignition system to allow for this process. Another great feature to using the distributorless system is the ability to, in case of no coolant, run in limp home mode.