: Add this to the list of reasons why a remote bleeder is a great idea.



CadzillaTN
11-13-11, 03:34 PM
So I was installing the remote bleeder on my slave today and I ran across a familiar sight.

I always thought that when you cracked the bleeder, you were just unscrewing a fitting where the wrench connected to the bleeder. But, after I took out my trans and looked at the slave it appeared the hex end of the bleeder was actually fixed on the stick which unscrewed at the slave much like a brake line. This seems to be the case.

I went to unscrew it from the slave and noticed a few things- first, the whole thing was bent. As I unscrewed it, it moved in a pretty significant oval pattern, not a solid screw fashion. I never noticed this before (obviously). Also, it seemed gritty...It took alot of turns to actually get it out of the slave, so if someone loses this in the bellhousing, they turned it alot!!

At the end of this stick, there is a fitting pretty much exactly like a bleeder screw on our brakes. When tight, it corks the hole, when barely cracked, it loosens and the fluid goes out of a small hole in the screw.

Mine was corroded and caked with rust. Perhaps, this is why A) It's hard to get the bubbles out and a good stream of fluid and B) why it can ever so slowly leak and let air in, but never enough to show itself...who knows. But, I can say that I had issues with brake bleeder screws like this- there was so much corrosion that it couldn't seal perfectly. This also can't be good for the slave internals if this stuff gets back inside.

Now, the remote bleeder will fix this issue- here's why- the fitting seats into the hole allowing me to "fix" the fitting in the hole with loctite or some other material and never worry about air getting by as I try to bleed.........the bleeder fitting has a hole at the bottom thus extending the entire line out and away from the slave allowing one to bleed, and bleed good- quickly and effeciently. As for the slave, I'll need to clean that hole and threads with a q-tip or something so I know the fitting gets a good seal..

now for the pics that help show all this:

slave with bleeder stick just removed- gee, that's black on the end?
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5593.jpg

closer look
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5581.jpg

even closer- you can see the hole is stuffed.
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5583.jpg

threads inside the slave, stuff caked down in there
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5603.jpg

and the fitting for the remote bleeder, hole in the bottom.
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5592.jpg

garrettg
11-13-11, 05:02 PM
Nice detailed pics of the stock setup, helps me reconcile some of the issues I have had.

pato
11-13-11, 06:10 PM
Thank you for the detailed pics. This convinced me that a remote bleeder is a must when I do a clutch swap.

CancerJCC
11-15-11, 05:19 PM
Definitely great pics and a wonderful thread for when someone is bleeding their clutch using the stock setup. When I went to bleed mine it leaked out around the threads instead of out from the bleed screw tip. I had fluid running out of the bell housing and thought I was #*($ed. Also the wobbling is something that is nice to understand before you start. Saves you some greys knowing that it is normal to wobble around which is counter intuitive to what you think should happen when unscrewing something!

lilred
11-15-11, 08:58 PM
Definitely great pics and a wonderful thread for when someone is bleeding their clutch using the stock setup. When I went to bleed mine it leaked out around the threads instead of out from the bleed screw tip. I had fluid running out of the bell housing and thought I was #*($ed. Also the wobbling is something that is nice to understand before you start. Saves you some greys knowing that it is normal to wobble around which is counter intuitive to what you think should happen when unscrewing something!

I had the same problem. I bled the clutch and it was leaking from the bellhousing and not coming out the bleeder. I was like WTF have I done. Managed to tighten it back up and clutch is nice and smooth but I always wondered where that fluid came from.

CancerJCC
11-16-11, 07:15 PM
I had the same problem. I bled the clutch and it was leaking from the bellhousing and not coming out the bleeder. I was like WTF have I done. Managed to tighten it back up and clutch is nice and smooth but I always wondered where that fluid came from.

Nice to hear I'm not the only one. Of course I was able to use it as an excuse to upgrade my clutch with the wifey. (Actually a bitch slap to me with this POS Monster). Damn I guess she won that one.

CadzillaTN
11-21-11, 09:44 PM
Miracle alert: I just bled my clutch by myself, under the hood, without my wife, in about 5 minutes.

Wow. The speed bleeder end on the line made it that much easier.

I'd say two thumbs up so far, but if you order one from tick, save yourself the trouble and request a straight fitting for the slave end of the line.

I had to bend mine somewhat and I'm not 100% convinced it didn't mess it up, but for now I'm going to assume I didn't.

They'll tell you it will work as is, but it won't. Now, I didn't line it up with the ls7 slave I had for a day or two. Due to it's lines set at different angles, it may work... Don't know, but it wont with the stock slave without bending.

If I wasnt in so much of a rush, I would have had a local shop that builds brake lines just put a new fitting on it for me..

Another thing I noticed, even with it tightened into the slave, the fitting had a bit if back and forth "play". Not sure if that was unique to my slave or not, but nothing a bunch of red loctite couldn't fix.

To clarify, I ordered the c6 bleeder.