: My first DIY paint correction / detail thanks to auto geek



WesH8398
11-08-11, 11:07 AM
This is just a re-post of a thread I posted over at AutoGeek.net last week. I found their forums sometime this summer after a local detail shop did a pretty damn shoddy job on my V, and I wanted to make it right. Man, the forum members over there are SUPER helpful, friendly, and knowledgeable ... Kinda like here! lol If any of you are interested in doing your own detail, check this place out for resources.
All in all, I spent about $400 on products including the polisher, pads, etc, etc. I literally started from nothing. Having completed my car, I can say with confidence that this was $400 very well spent. I'll be able to do this 10 more times before I'll even need another bottle of polish. Needless to say, my wife's highway warrior Mazda3 is up next, and I can't wait to see the results. Anyway, here's the post. If you want clarification on any of the abbreviations, just let me know.

Well, after spending a few months here reading around and asking a few questions, I placed my first order. It included a GG 6" polisher, the 5" Meguires microfiber DA system kit, appropriate BP, some extra 5" pads, some 3" pads and BP, a bottle of Collinite 845, 2 hydro-tech crimson pads to apply that, and some other odds and ends including some quality microfiber towels, etc. About a week ago, I finally set a day aside to put all this stuff to work. Here are a few pics of what I was dealing with (thanks to a local "detailer" who took me for $200 and left me far worse off than I started):
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/8bbed15c.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/2f1fdf71.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/6189c13c.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/c09294f5.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/574f8b0c.jpg

So, as you can see, I had a bit of work to do. Some areas of the car (namely the hood and trunk deck lid) were almost grey-looking they were so swirled.

After re-watching all the how-to videos I could and rereading all the great advise from you guys in my various start-up threads, I got to work.

PREP:
I washed using 2 bucket method and grit guards, then clayed using Riccardo's yellow clay and a mixture of water and Optimum No Rinse.

CORRECTION COMPOUND:

This took about 6 hours with short breaks. I tried to stay in 2x2 sections, but think I went larger most of the time, even though I kept telling myself not to. Noob mistake, but I think it worked out anyway.

I used compressed air to clean my pad after every section or 2. After each cleaning, I would add another 2-3 pea sized drops to my pad. I went with about as much pressure as I could while still allowing the pad to spin (black mark on BP helped a lot), and used a very slow arm speed. I had my GG set at 3.5 for the recommended OPM's. Once a whole panel was done, I would wipe off. The product came off very easily and was an overall pleasure to deal with. After this step alone, I felt like I was ready for a wax/sealant already. It corrected most of the swirls and came out looking glossy and really didn't leave anything terribly ugly behind. I think I could have got more of the surface scratches out had I adjusted my technique a bit, but I was thrilled just to see the majority of swirls disappearing before my eyes.

FINISHING WAX

This step took me an hour and a half or so, if I remember correctly. I cleaned the pad less frequently (every 2-3 sections), and felt like I was using less product than the compounding step too. Here, I used a pretty quick (too quick?) arm speed, and really not much more pressure than just the weight of the machine. I had my GG DA set to 2.5 in order to meet the recommended OPM for this step. I found it tough not to work on larger than 2x2 sections here too. As with the first step, once a full panel was done, I would buff off. The stuff came off very easily. Again, a pleasure to work with.

Here are some shots of the results after just this 2 step process. Pretty impressive, I must say. Especially considering that my technique likely left a lot to be desired.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/41f95677.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/e109caf8.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/44bf455b.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/542b142f.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/7f3afb03.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/0e1e006c.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/9aefd3db.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/182fe6e0.jpg
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/027253ad.jpg

Just to give an idea of the finishing wax at work:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/1c62d6dc.jpg



FINAL STEP:
After all the positive things I read about Collinite 845, I had to try it out. I gave the finishing wax a few days to cure and applied the 845 today. I applied the 845 with crimson HydroTech pads, employing a pretty quick arm speed and doing about a panel at a time. I probably did about 3-4 "section passes" of each panel, which I wasn't sure of... Just kinda winged it. In about an hour, the car was covered and I left it for about 30 minutes before I buffed off in the same order I applied. The wax came off pretty easily, so I definitely didn't put it on too thick. The gloss was amazing and wet-looking, and I was really impressed with the product.


Thanks for reading and I hope this helps anyone who is in the position I was in.

Andringa
11-08-11, 12:28 PM
Looks like an awesome first correction. I found Autogeek this spring and got a PorterCable and everything needed to do my V. I couldn't be happier with my money spent.

Did you happen to use any IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) during your compounding? Diluted with water it can be used to wipe down a panel and see what it looks like with out any compound filling in the finer swirls. I used it and went back over a couple spots that I thought were done.

Nice post, this reminds me that I should at least get a new coat of wax on before it snows.

EdmundGTP
11-08-11, 01:30 PM
GOD DAMN your paint was in rough shape! Nice work on the correction. My last full job consisted of Menzerna P091, followed by Menzerna PO85RD, Followed by Poorboys Black hole, followed by Poorboys EXP sealant, Followed by Pinnacle Souveran Paste wax.

The hard part now is keeping the finish looking the way it does now. Hope your car lives in a garage.

WesH8398
11-08-11, 03:20 PM
Looks like an awesome first correction. I found Autogeek this spring and got a PorterCable and everything needed to do my V. I couldn't be happier with my money spent.

Did you happen to use any IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) during your compounding? Diluted with water it can be used to wipe down a panel and see what it looks like with out any compound filling in the finer swirls. I used it and went back over a couple spots that I thought were done.

Nice post, this reminds me that I should at least get a new coat of wax on before it snows.

Yah, winter was my main reason for doing this. I knew it needed a good wax, but I didn't want to lay down a nice wax over that sad looking paint. Ideally I would have did this in the spring so it looked it's best for the summer, but being my first correction and being as I wanted to get some practice in, I figured I'd do it now. If the winter is that hard on it, I'll give another once-over in the spring.
As for the IPA, no, I didn't do that. I just went with what I learned and hoped for the best. lol


GOD DAMN your paint was in rough shape! Nice work on the correction. My last full job consisted of Menzerna P091, followed by Menzerna PO85RD, Followed by Poorboys Black hole, followed by Poorboys EXP sealant, Followed by Pinnacle Souveran Paste wax.

The hard part now is keeping the finish looking the way it does now. Hope your car lives in a garage.

Yea, it was pretty rough thanks to my local "detailer" and the gift certificate my wife gave me. You took a ton of steps with yours, eh? Have you read much about the Meg's MF system I used? As you can see, it does a HELL of a job, and in only 2 steps! Add a good last step product if you like, like I did with the 845, and you're off to the races in only 3 steps.
And no, my V is NO garage queen. It'll even be out all winter playing in the snow. :)

EdmundGTP
11-08-11, 04:05 PM
I'd be tempted to try the Megs MF system at some point. As of now, all my car ever needs is a single stage polish with the PO85RD and sealant re-application every 8 months or so. In between that I freshen up the coat of wax every 6 weeks or so. I go to borderline extreme lengths to keep things from marring my clearcoat, so that any correction work is minimal at worst when it comes time to do it. Between corrections NOTHING touches my paint except microfiber, quick detail spray, wax, and occasional soap and water. I don't even drive my car if there's more than a 10% chance of rain so that I don't have to wash dust crust off of it. When it's not being driven it's in a garage and under a cover.

GDPossehl
11-08-11, 06:31 PM
^ Wow, I wish. I drive my car at least 50 miles a day to work and back. Needless to say my paint takes a beating. It's tough to keep up, but I hand wash it once a week.

CancerJCC
11-08-11, 06:47 PM
Looks great! This thread reminds me I need to put some of that last UPS order to work...(Some new polishes and pads). Not exactly the most exciting project but it sure looks great in the end. I can't believe how many people think my V is brand new.

bcarv87
11-08-11, 08:37 PM
Great job man! I also found autogeek this summer and find it full of useful info. I plan on fully detailing my car in the spring.

mberisha
11-09-11, 05:45 AM
Wow....looks great!

Merge
11-09-11, 11:49 AM
Looks really good!
Have before/after pictures of any scratches? How did they come out?

EdmundGTP
11-09-11, 12:41 PM
Looks really good!
Have before/after pictures of any scratches? How did they come out?

A clear coat correction will not remove any scratches that are deep enough to feel with a fingernail. The only way to successfully remove "scratches" is to repaint the area, OR in the event that the scratch doesn't go through the clearcoat, you can wet sand the area level and then re polish. This is generally not worth the risk of sanding through the clearcoat and into the paint though.

Natedog
11-09-11, 02:58 PM
I'm looking into going with the Griots garage machine polish kit (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+waxing/car+waxes+and+sealants/machine+polish+%26+wax+kit.do) Do you think i'll be able to obtain similar results or should i look into other products (correction compound, cutting discs, etc.)? I've had great results with hand applying their best in show wax but i've never used the buffer or machine polishes they offer

Andringa
11-09-11, 05:52 PM
Griots makes good stuff. If anything the correction compound that they have in that kit is probably less aggressive than some others. That compound may take a little longer to accomplish the same result but it should get you there in the end.

Looking at that kit the biggest thing that you are missing out on is extra pads. I wouldn't suggest trying to correct an entire car with 1 orange pad. When they get dirty and or filled with compound you need to wash them and let them dry before using them again. I also really like having some smaller pads available. I got a 2.5" backing plate with 3" pads and use them on the bumper/mirrors/trunk where the 5" or 6" pads have a hard time fitting.

Natedog
11-10-11, 12:26 PM
Griots makes good stuff. If anything the correction compound that they have in that kit is probably less aggressive than some others. That compound may take a little longer to accomplish the same result but it should get you there in the end.

Looking at that kit the biggest thing that you are missing out on is extra pads. I wouldn't suggest trying to correct an entire car with 1 orange pad. When they get dirty and or filled with compound you need to wash them and let them dry before using them again. I also really like having some smaller pads available. I got a 2.5" backing plate with 3" pads and use them on the bumper/mirrors/trunk where the 5" or 6" pads have a hard time fitting.
Thanks for the feedback. I definitely plan on getting more pads and some micro fiber towels and i was also leaning toward the Wolfgang Duo Package (http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-combo.html) from autogeek as it seems the polishes are a bit more aggressive for our very hard paint and may get the swirls out a bit easier. I'll probably finish it off with a sealant afterwards for longer protection and then possibly some wax for added depth

EdmundGTP
11-10-11, 01:20 PM
The best microfiber towels I've used so far are the Deluxe Mega Towel (DMT) from Poorboys. http://poorboysworld.com/microfiber.htm They have an extra plush side and a thicker short weave side, so they multi-purpose very well.
Very reasonably priced as well. $50 for a dozen of them.

EDIT: Also be sure to wash new MF towels at least once before using them. Do not use regular clothes detergent though, just something with no bleach and no dyes, or fragrances. And do not use a dryer sheet when you dry them out. There are several detergents specifically for MF available on Ageek. MF's get softer the more you wash them.

Another good practice is to visually inspect each MF towel before you go rubbing down your car with it. MF towels have a tendency to pick up small debris (i.e. very small wood splinters or twigs, small crumbs, hairs, fibers from other less gentle fabrics) and the last thing you wanna do is be dragging these other things along your freshly polished paint. Take a minute to look over each side of the towel before use and pick off anything that ISNT microfiber. I even go as far as to pick off bits of lint from OTHER MF towels. If a towel starts to fray, its fibers can "cross contaminate" other MF towels and get knotted up in the weave. Even though it IS microfiber, when it's knotted up at all it can mar clearcoat.

CancerJCC
11-10-11, 11:21 PM
The best microfiber towels I've used so far are the Deluxe Mega Towel (DMT) from Poorboys. http://poorboysworld.com/microfiber.htm They have an extra plush side and a thicker short weave side, so they multi-purpose very well.
Very reasonably priced as well. $50 for a dozen of them.

EDIT: Also be sure to wash new MF towels at least once before using them. Do not use regular clothes detergent though, just something with no bleach and no dyes, or fragrances. And do not use a dryer sheet when you dry them out. There are several detergents specifically for MF available on Ageek. MF's get softer the more you wash them.

Another good practice is to visually inspect each MF towel before you go rubbing down your car with it. MF towels have a tendency to pick up small debris (i.e. very small wood splinters or twigs, small crumbs, hairs, fibers from other less gentle fabrics) and the last thing you wanna do is be dragging these other things along your freshly polished paint. Take a minute to look over each side of the towel before use and pick off anything that ISNT microfiber. I even go as far as to pick off bits of lint from OTHER MF towels. If a towel starts to fray, its fibers can "cross contaminate" other MF towels and get knotted up in the weave. Even though it IS microfiber, when it's knotted up at all it can mar clearcoat.

Sounds anal retentive but absolutely true! Just wash your MF towels by themselves because they pick up from other fabrics so terribly.

CadzillaTN
11-10-11, 11:28 PM
This thread is inspiring... My car is covered in 5 months of dust and has cat paw tracks all over it. Even a few streaks with light scratch marks where the little bastards slid off before the dust gave them some grip... :(

Andringa
11-11-11, 12:53 PM
This thread is inspiring... My car is covered in 5 months of dust and has cat paw tracks all over it. Even a few streaks with light scratch marks where the little bastards slid off before the dust gave them some grip... :(
AHHH, I don't mind cats, but if they walked on my car they would be gone.

EdmundGTP
11-11-11, 01:39 PM
This thread is inspiring... My car is covered in 5 months of dust and has cat paw tracks all over it. Even a few streaks with light scratch marks where the little bastards slid off before the dust gave them some grip... :(

Literally just cringed at the thought of a cat sliding across the hood of my car with a day's worth of ambient dust on it... I can't even..

mberisha
11-12-11, 08:39 AM
here kittie kittie kittie......WHAM!

CadzillaTN
11-12-11, 09:36 PM
They live next door or trust me I'd consider wacking them...but it's not really their fault. I've learned alot as I age, mostly the hard way.. and one if those things is, "it's just a car".

If I don't like it, I can work harder and get a promotion, or a better job, then a better house...with a garage..(and a V2.)

CancerJCC
11-14-11, 09:04 PM
They live next door or trust me I'd consider wacking them...but it's not really their fault. I've learned alot as I age, mostly the hard way.. and one if those things is, "it's just a car".


Evidently I am not old enough then. "Mommy where did snowflake go"? "I don't know honey, last I saw her she was on the neighbors property".

Natedog
11-16-11, 11:26 AM
So here's what i ended up ordering:
- Porter Cable 7424XP with 5" backing plate
- Wolfgang Duo (16oz Total Swirl Remover 3.0 and 16oz Finishing Glaze)
- Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paing Sealant 3.0
- LC CSS 5.5" pads - 3 orange, 2 white, 2 gray, 1 red
- Mothers California Clay Kit
- 6 pack of Poorboys microfiber Deluxe Mega Towels
- and some microfiber detergent for the washing machine

I'm planning to knock out my first paint correction over thanksgiving weekend when i'll be at my parents place with not much else to do. I'll post up my results when i'm done :) thanks for the insight and motivation !

CancerJCC
11-17-11, 05:48 PM
I'm planning to knock out my first paint correction over thanksgiving weekend when i'll be at my parents place with not much else to do. I'll post up my results when i'm done :) thanks for the insight and motivation !

Good luck! I always do it on a four day weekend so that I can take my time and do it right.

EdmundGTP
11-17-11, 06:11 PM
If you've never ran one before, be prepared for your hands and wrists to feel like jello after running that polisher for 4-6 hours.

Natedog
11-21-11, 06:37 PM
If you've never ran one before, be prepared for your hands and wrists to feel like jello after running that polisher for 4-6 hours. Haha, yea i'm hoping plenty of yuengling will ease the pain and thankfully i'm not going to be in any rush so i may break up the entire process over a few days. Quick question for you, i got the poor boys DMT's as you suggested and noticed the differences on each side of the towels... with that said, do you use the shorter side to initially remove polish/glaze after applying it with the polisher and then go to the longer side for final wipe or do you just use the long side so as not to micro mar the paint with the towel?

EdmundGTP
11-21-11, 07:38 PM
The short nap side will be better for removing polishes, waxes and sealants, and the longer nap side I find more useful for quick detailing stuff and quick dust-off's. You can technically use either side for whatever it works best at. Neither side is more or less prone than the other to mar the paint, so you should be fine either way. The main thing to avoid paint damage is to make sure your MF towels are free of debris or other foreign specs, fibers or threads, and don't OVER use one towel. After a while you'll notice that the towels have a clean "lifespan" and that basically they'll stop removing polish, or wax, effectively once they reach a point of "dirtyness". During a paint correction, I'd allocate 1 towel, per body panel, per correction step, at the minimum. I usually plan to have 30 or so clean towels on hand for any sort of correction work.

Based on the stuff you bought.

Clay bar step - You could probably get this done with 2 or 3 towels
Swirl Remover - One towel per body panel
Finishing Glaze - One Towel per body panel
Paint sealant - Probably can do this with 2 or 3 towels as well, but pay attention to when the towels stop "picking up" what you're rubbing off effectively.

Honestly, you can NEVER have too many clean MF towels on hand. It's literally impossible..

WesH8398
11-22-11, 09:29 AM
Wow, I didn't get any notifications so I missed a whole bunch of posts! Thanks for all the compliments.
One problem I'm left with is winter washing. I bought a rinseless wash, but it's still going to freeze when I wash in my garage. What do you guys do to keep her clean in the winter? I hear that the detergents used in most commercial washes (touch free) are too harsh...

EdmundGTP
11-22-11, 02:59 PM
Wow, I didn't get any notifications so I missed a whole bunch of posts! Thanks for all the compliments.
One problem I'm left with is winter washing. I bought a rinseless wash, but it's still going to freeze when I wash in my garage. What do you guys do to keep her clean in the winter? I hear that the detergents used in most commercial washes (touch free) are too harsh...

Don't drive it in winter? Seriously, I don't know. Personally I'd never bother doing a clearcoat correction on a car that I had to drive during the winter. The first snow/ice attack and subsequent brush off will ruin most of whatever work you put into getting a swirl free finish. If I had to wash in the winter I'd run a hose to one of the faucets in my house and use hot water to do it.

WesH8398
11-22-11, 03:35 PM
Well geeze... Might as well just leave it in a farmer's field to rot away then, eh? ;) Just kidding. But just 'cause it's winter driven doesn't mean it doesn't deserve a nice glassy paint finish. I'm sure winter's a little rougher on it than sitting in a garage, but improper washing will add imperfections a lot faster than some snow. And whatever the winter does will be easily corrected in the spring since it's in great condition now. Hopefully a one step polish (and then wax) will bring things into tip top shape in the spring. :)

EdmundGTP
11-22-11, 03:46 PM
Yeah. I guess I'd just try to rinse it down as often as possible with warm/hot water.

CancerJCC
11-22-11, 07:59 PM
Wow, I didn't get any notifications so I missed a whole bunch of posts! Thanks for all the compliments.
One problem I'm left with is winter washing. I bought a rinseless wash, but it's still going to freeze when I wash in my garage. What do you guys do to keep her clean in the winter? I hear that the detergents used in most commercial washes (touch free) are too harsh...

I used to use a hot bucket of water and just rinse with my hose. That is before I did the ultimate winter wash mod.....move south! :)

CadzillaTN
11-23-11, 01:41 AM
brace yourself.


http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5634.jpg

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/CopyofIMG_5637.jpg


http://farm1.static.flickr.com/51/133066315_5a9a59fd40_o.jpg

WesH8398
11-23-11, 01:49 AM
Yeah. I guess I'd just try to rinse it down as often as possible with warm/hot water.

I bought some rinse-less wash when I got my other stuff, so I'll use that with warm water. No hose necessary. Problem will be that even hot/warm water, it will quickly freeze when it's really cold here, making drying a challenge. I suppose in that case I'll just do the coin-op touchless wash.


brace yourself


http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5634.jpg

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_5637.jpg

Wow... That hurts my heart. lol

mberisha
11-25-11, 10:51 AM
Cadzilla....where did you park for all that dust....next to a construction site?!

CadzillaTN
11-26-11, 10:29 PM
Haha, nah...Just under my carport... For 5 months :(.

I drove it for 2 days, now it's back in the air getting suspension bits put on.. I like the stock feel but just can't live with the stinkbug stance.

Natedog
12-01-11, 05:56 PM
Figured i'd post up my results after last weekend's marathon.... total time was about 10 hrs actual effort from wash to sealant removal.... i also swept out the inside and wiped everything down but that was only 30 min or so.... Steps included the following:
Day 1:
- Wash entire car and dry with GG microfiber towel
- Clay with Mothers cali clay kit and quik detailer using Poorboys DMT MF towels
- Wash MF towels and get some sleep
Day 2:
- Orange Pad with Wolfgang TSR on speed 6 (porter cable 7472xp) going very slow... i found i needed 6 and slow arm speed to really remove the swirls. This was really a matter of just how perfect you wanted it, cause on troublesome areas, i'd just make another pass and it would continue to get better and better each time, but i wasn't looking for 100% perfection.... only 95% ;) this was easily the most time consuming process but certainly eye opening as the results were astounding (see 50/50 and additional shots below)... ended up making 2-3 passes on top facing surfaces and 1-2 on doors and other side facing surfaces
- White Pad with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze on speed 5 - 5.5 again going pretty slow
- My hands were spent after this so i called it a night
Day 3:
- Dusted everything off and made sure i was happy with all panels
- Red Pad with Wofgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on speed 4.5... this stuff is awesome, goes on super easy as i did the entire car in 20 minutes and then let it sit for an hour
- After taking off the DGPS i was amazed as the depth and wetness actually improved slightly... i didn't expect it to get any better but so far this stuff seems pretty awesome
- Swept out interior and trunk and wiped everything down and i was done....

All in all a fool proof process that just takes time but the results you get are nothing short of astounding... it seriously looks like i got a brand new paint job on my entire car... my bro, dad, and I were super impressed as we've hand clayed/polished/waxed cars before plenty of times but never got results like this... see photos below and let me know if you have questions

Nate

Hood after Clay:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0822.jpg

Trunk after Clay:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0825.jpg

50/50 of the trunk after only one pass with the TSR:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0829.jpg

Trunk after 2 passes of TSR on the entire lid:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0835.jpg

I went around the rest of the car with the TSR and orange pad, being sure to clean the pad on the fly after every 1-2 panels... then i went around with the finishing glaze per notes above.... the results below are before applying sealant but after all polishing was complete:

Hood after all polishing:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0837.jpg

Drivers side after all polishing:
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0840.jpg

Hood photo outside in direct sun.... so sweet :)
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0842.jpg

And one last hood photo pulled inside before sealant...
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m263/Natedog03sct/IMG_0845.jpg

CancerJCC
12-01-11, 08:32 PM
Figured i'd post up my results after last weekend's marathon.... total time was about 10 hrs actual effort from wash to sealant removal.... i also swept out the inside and wiped everything down but that was only 30 min or so.... Steps included the following:
Day 1:
- Wash entire car and dry with GG microfiber towel
- Clay with Mothers cali clay kit and quik detailer using Poorboys DMT MF towels
- Wash MF towels and get some sleep
Day 2:
- Orange Pad with Wolfgang TSR on speed 6 (porter cable 7472xp) going very slow... i found i needed 6 and slow arm speed to really remove the swirls. This was really a matter of just how perfect you wanted it, cause on troublesome areas, i'd just make another pass and it would continue to get better and better each time, but i wasn't looking for 100% perfection.... only 95% ;) this was easily the most time consuming process but certainly eye opening as the results were astounding (see 50/50 and additional shots below)... ended up making 2-3 passes on top facing surfaces and 1-2 on doors and other side facing surfaces
- White Pad with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze on speed 5 - 5.5 again going pretty slow
- My hands were spent after this so i called it a night
Day 3:
- Dusted everything off and made sure i was happy with all panels
- Red Pad with Wofgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant on speed 4.5... this stuff is awesome, goes on super easy as i did the entire car in 20 minutes and then let it sit for an hour
- After taking off the DGPS i was amazed as the depth and wetness actually improved slightly... i didn't expect it to get any better but so far this stuff seems pretty awesome
- Swept out interior and trunk and wiped everything down and i was done....

All in all a fool proof process that just takes time but the results you get are nothing short of astounding... it seriously looks like i got a brand new paint job on my entire car... my bro, dad, and I were super impressed as we've hand clayed/polished/waxed cars before plenty of times but never got results like this... see photos below and let me know if you have questions

Nate


Looks great man!

Andringa
12-07-11, 03:20 PM
Looks good.

ahahnu
01-18-12, 11:17 PM
Fist to the OP, wow. Looks like miracles were performed in the garage.

Watch out washing your car in winter, hence freezing as stated above. I herd that water will find it's way in places and freeze/thaw occurs which can cause metal to rattle over time. It's something I've done and can say has worked. Try to wash your car when the day is warmer (above 32) if possible. Best is in the morning on a day you'll be driving around to help it dry off.

I give my car a wash/clay/polish/wax in the fall and after the winter. Always with GG stuff. Now that I can take my time and do it slowly I want to try their idea of applying three coats of wax over three days.