View Full Version : LAPD Remote Clutch Bleeder- C5/Z06 version right?

10-26-11, 04:19 PM
I spoke to LAPD today and tried to order a remote bleeder. I told the guy I wanted the C5/Z06 model but he insisted I needed the C6 version. I'm 99.5% I need the C5 version. He said he'd send me the hardware for the C5 version as well, but it's $10 more and I'd rather just get the right one first for $10 less.

Can you guys conform I need the C5 version?

I really want to get my car back together this weekend but I know I will be kicking myself for not doing this mod..

OneFast V
10-26-11, 04:24 PM
I got the same story so i just ordered mine from tick performance, $45 and they were straight forward and I'm pretty positive its c5/Z06

10-26-11, 07:15 PM
Got mine from him a couple of years ago, but can't recall which way to go.

However, as I recall, the "hardware" he's talking about is probably available at your local hardware in the plumbing section.

10-27-11, 09:20 AM
Here's my LAPD bleeder. I can't remember which one I got, but here's the tiny piece in question: The end piece has a little curve to it which needs straightened out as well. If they have straight ones, ask for that.



10-27-11, 06:04 PM
And I also cannot remember which I bought but I know I followed Lolly's write-up and guidance. That said do a search for a link because I'm fairly certain that's what I used to decide...

11-10-11, 10:06 PM
Well, the lapd guy said c6. Tick guy said c6. I would have bet the farm on c5.. Lapd was $20 higher.

So I went with tick c6 version, mainly because the end didn't seem to need any bending, and I got a stock slave/to bearing for a great price... and I got it all overnighted.

My dd wouldn't start this morning, so that was the last straw for me. Hope to be rolling in the V again by Monday....ha. Just jinxed myself there.

11-11-11, 10:32 PM
well I got the bleeder and the slave. slave seems like the wrong one, but I'll start another thread on that.

the bleeder doesn't seem to have that crush washer although I specifically spoke to the guy about it on the phone. I guess I should have gone with the LAPD one.

And I still think I need the the c5 version... oh well.



I am 5 seconds from re-installing my old slave without the bleeder and moving on.

11-12-11, 12:52 PM
After reading some other bleeder threads here and on the vette forums, I don't think this bleeder utilizes a fitting that requires a washer...rather it mimics the current slave fitting whose threads bottom out and don't need a washer. It seems lolly's lapd bleeder above comes with a washer only because it's fitting's threads would bottom out against the surface of the slave, therefore needing the washer to seal.

I'm reluctant to unscrew the bleeder valve from my slave just to see how long the threads are, but looking at the pic below, it's still a 20% chance I'd need a washer...


or, the washer goes here.


but, the threads don't bottom out enough to even allow 2 "crush" washers stacked between.... so I'm not sure.

11-12-11, 01:12 PM
There is no washer needed because the Bleeder fitting is basically a needle and seat type of thing. Like and AN fitting or a flared brake line fitting. You need the C6 Bleeder for the V. Regardless was you think you know, it's a C6. The slave you ordered is an LS7 slave and I think you should keep it and install an LS7 clutch while your at it but that's me. What clutch did you install?

11-12-11, 07:37 PM
Yeah I read some other posts you had in other threads/forums about the bleeder being c6... so im ok with it now. I was just confused as the LAPD was for c6 as well, but came with the washer...I guess because of the fitting they supply. Plus, I had c5 on the brain because I was shopping for the slave as well.

Stock clutch. Long story but ill shorten it- years ago I bought a new "stock" clutch and fw from another forum member for a not a "high" but not "throw it in the trash" price either. I never needed it, just bought it for safety before I knew of all the other options out there. 2 yrs passed and I developed a vibration. Under warranty, I got a brand new flywheel. Static vibrations were reduced greatly, but the 2-2.5k rpm vibe remained. I wondered if it was the new flywheel out of balance, so I contemplated a lightweight fw to mate with the new stock clutch I had. I passed on a great deal on a used uuc fw. In the interim, I had a couple of issues unrelated to the V suck a couple grand out of my slush fund, so I decided I couldn't justify the cost of a new setup at the moment when I had basically a new (albeit stock) setup (minus slave) in hand.

After my warranty expired I parked the car and tore it apart to get the stock fw balanced and put in the stock clutch...hoping to have a stock smoothness again despite the heavy fw.. No one wanted to balance the fw...so I thought maybe the vibes could be a worn pp etc, so decided to go ahead and get some use out of that stock clutch as I figured the new pp and disk might give it that new grabby feel.

I know the LS7 setup is roughly 650 and a good deal in comparison to buying just a (correct) slave for ~300. But, I also need a flywheel if I'm going to get that clutch so now I'm up to a grand or so. Next year I'll be in a better position to dump money in the car (paid off in the spring) so at that time I'll probably upgrade the whole setup.

11-13-11, 01:38 PM
650 should be for everything including a lw flywheel, clutch, slave, etc... The only thing that appears missing is a clutch alignment tool.



11-13-11, 02:15 PM
oh. that changes things then.. even better reason for me to rock the old slave until she gives out then spend the dough on this setup seeing as a new ls6 slave will run me almost half the cost of this kit! I already have the alignment tool ha..$4 item. I've seen some nicer ones out there that are made with an actual input shaft and I presume alot stronger than the plastic tool. You still have alot of play using the plastic tool imo, assuming you are going for a perfectly centered disc.

on a side note, no matter how I turn it, it appears I will have to bend the end of this bleeder to get the line to clear the bell without having any "stress" on it. Not sure how I'm going to do that yet.

11-23-11, 12:43 AM
that was a clean bend lolly. I put the screws to mine and barely got it bent. I hope I didn't jeapordize the seal...



mmmm loctite



01-16-12, 12:24 AM
It's dark, and hell is hot. Aint no sunshine in Mod Hell.
--- anonymous CTS-V owner

very true. So I've been having disengagement problems since installing my new clutch and remote bleeder. All was fine after install. Great pedal, great feel. Started getting harder to shift...I wasn't losing fluid. Well, I thought I wasn't. I was having so much fun with the remote bleeder I didn't realize I was.

fast forward a few weeks. I get under the car, see fluid in the slot between the bellhousing and motor...I figure the slave is shot. After all, I reused it when it had 65k miles on it... THis weekend I tore the transmission out again. Not as bad a job as I thought it would be. Everything is easier once you've done it. Actually got it out in just a few hours. Learned a few things-

the fluid was oil, at least in that spot it was. I guess the oil pan gasket is still slightly leaking. Oh well. I don't care about that, I can keep filling with oil til the cows come home (although, I do already have a new oil pan gasket-- the job seems like a pita, so I didn't do it when I did my clutch/rear cover gasket/main seal).

Now on to the bleeder and this slave.....so, the slave doesn't seem to be leaking. No fluid at the base, none under the boot, none at the tip where the bearing is....but there was fluid where the remote bleeder screws into the slave, and on the connection just north of that. Oddly, starting about 5 inches from the fitting and extending about 8 inches further, the line has bulged. More on that in a moment.

So the fitting. It didn't screw in to the slave well in the 1st place. It had back and forth movement even when tight. I asked the manufacturer (tick performance) about this, was told it was normal. Wrong. Lets look at the fitting again....mainly the nipple, and the girth of the threads. The nipple end isn't the same pitch as the stock bleeder stick that came out. This means it isn't seating exactly the same. leak possibility #1. Look at the LAPD bleeder, it's fitting's threads are much shorter and there's no nipple. Doesn't need to be I suppose, it just needs to screw down tight because the fluid goes up and away from there. Conclusion, not the whole issue here, but wrong type of fitting nonetheless. I put a bunch of red loctite around the threads. Seemed to seat it well and seal hard as a rock before install but over time, the brake fluid ate that red stuff away and leak we go.

I had to bend the end to fit..ok. Perhaps, as I mentioned, I jeopardized the threads doing this...maybe. It had fluid too. More red loctite here. Possible leak spot #2. I think #1 is the culprit.

Well, now onto other possibilities. I thought I had jeopardized it where the braids were crimped, but there was no fluid there, hence the dry area below. No drips or fluid on the line at that spot.

The odd thing- the line swelled as if the line into the slave were blocked. Could I have clogged it with the red loctite, who knows. Seems pressure is the only thing that could have caused the line to swell and spit fluid. It occurred mid-line, not a the end...you can twist the rubber sleeve around the braided line. So, this bleeder is (probably) shot, unless a shop that makes these things can cut the old end off and put a new end on it for me.

Now, slave questions and a bit of a rant. I still believe my slave is fine. But, here I am with the trans out again. A new slave is over 300 %$@$#! dollars. I swore I would get an LS7 setup and be done with it if I got back in here, but I really don't have the patience to take that damn bell/clutch/fw etc out again this soon,...getting the trans out is only 1/4 of the work...but I guess the new stuff would go back in so much smoother.

Regardless, I guess it would be very foolish of me not to at least put a brand new slave in. I've read all the threads on all the forums about alternate slave compatibility, the fittings, etc. The line coming in seems to be the issue...no way to ditch the quick connect and go with a new line all the way from the say, c5 slave to the reservoir?

I guess it's LAPD bleeder with the request for a straight end on the slave side of the line, if the tick one is ruined.

Hell I might just put that crooked, clogged, stock bleeder stick back on and slap it back together. I am a sucker for mod hell. It usually takes me 3-7 times to get a mod right and I usually ruin parts along the way.

opinions? insults? all is welcome.

Here are some pics:

shot of the connections. note the dry area just below the end of the line where the braids meet the crimp. Not leaking there (where I thought it WOULD if it were going to)

the fluid that did leak pooled in the bottom corner, not even enough to run out of the bell (that was oil that I saw). So I assume bockage....haven't torn it apart yet.

regular braid


bloated section, starts outside trans edge, doesn't go far