: Car Will Not Start - Does Not Crank



Juggernaut850
10-03-11, 08:14 PM
Hello,

So for the last couple of weeks, every once in a while I would try to start the V (2006) and it would not even crank. After opening the hood, looking things over and trying a few more times eventually it would start up.

But today after I finished changing the oil, with the car still on ramps, it will not start. Here are the details:

-Loud Click noise coming from starter area
-Changed the relay and no difference
-Tried both keys - same deal
-Battery is good
-Fiddled with clutch position sensor but no dice
-Banged on the starter and solenoid
-Read the forums, of course.

So, first question is if the clutch position sensor is bad will I still get the one loud click / clang noise?

Second, the wires going to the starter did not look too bad, but I am not sure of a point of reference. Ideas here to help trouble shoot keeping the loud clang noise in mind?

Lastly, if it is indeed the starter - how much and difficult is it to change with the car on ramps?

Thanks as always in advance,

darkman
10-03-11, 08:54 PM
If you are getting noise at the starter it not likely the clutch pedal position switch. The OEM starter has an MRSP of $338, but remanufactured units are available for around $210 plus a $70 refundable core charge. The starter can be removed with the car on ramps, but I will defer to others as to the degree of difficulty.

CadzillaTN
10-04-11, 01:34 AM
Hello,

So for the last couple of weeks, every once in a while I would try to start the V (2006) and it would not even crank. After opening the hood, looking things over and trying a few more times eventually it would start up.

But today after I finished changing the oil, with the car still on ramps, it will not start. Here are the details:

-Loud Click noise coming from starter area
-Changed the relay and no difference
-Tried both keys - same deal
-Battery is good
-Fiddled with clutch position sensor but no dice
-Banged on the starter and solenoid
-Read the forums, of course.

So, first question is if the clutch position sensor is bad will I still get the one loud click / clang noise?

Second, the wires going to the starter did not look too bad, but I am not sure of a point of reference. Ideas here to help trouble shoot keeping the loud clang noise in mind?

Lastly, if it is indeed the starter - how much and difficult is it to change with the car on ramps?

Thanks as always in advance,

Did you fiddle with the wires that connect to the starter? Not a fix but before mine was replaced I could get it going that way.

If you have stock mounts, I'm 90% sure you'll have to loosen some bolts on the mount in order to move it up 1/2" out of the way. Remove by tilting the starter upward to get it out and reverse to put it back in.

I recall it being somewhat of a pita- straightforward but time consuming simply due to clearance.

You may also want to replace the connector, not sure.. Do a google search, tons of good info on the forum.. Theres a great thread devoted to nothing but 'no start' issues.

Naf
10-04-11, 02:06 AM
I had a situation where i didnt get any responce from my car. I pushed in the plug and it started up. Went to the dr and the wire popped out, had my GF pop the clutch after i pushed the car.

The car will run if push started, but if your starter is on the fritz, be warned you have a lot of work to do to change it out, and if the plug is no good GOD speed...

Skidmarcx
10-04-11, 09:15 AM
Sounds like either a bad connection or starter

Juggernaut850
10-04-11, 12:36 PM
All - Thank you for the quick replys.

Would a bad connector allow the starter area to make that loud clang noise? (If so I would like to try changing this before I swap the starter)

Any ideas on what the noise is? It only happens once per ingnition attempt and is much louder than say a relay (you can actually feel it if you put a screwdriver on the starter area or oil pan)

darkman
10-04-11, 01:06 PM
That sound is the starter solenoid receiving current but presumably failing to function. It is common for a starter solenoid to fail intermittently before failing completely. Starters on the other hand typically work well or not at all.

lucasmartin
10-04-11, 02:49 PM
I had the exact same thing happen to me last week. I turned the key and got the clicking sound. The car had run perfectly the night before. I was able to push start it and took it immediately to local auto parts store where they tested the battery and it showed "good". I spoke with a friend who is a GM Mechanic and who is very familiar with our cars. He said go get a new battery. I told him about the test and he said go get a new one anyways. I didn't listen as the display unit said my volts were "OK", and it seemed to run fine.

Second stop of the day, it would not start again. I pushed started again and went back to the auto parts store and got a new battery. It instantly fixed my particular issue and it has run perfect since. It appears my previous battery (bought the car used a year ago) had been on the car for just over three years and even though it showed fine on the test it was not. Perhaps the fact I had the test done immediately after driving it skewed the results. Good luck on yours

Juggernaut850
10-05-11, 06:02 PM
Guys, thanks for all the help.

So when I wrote that the battery was fine I based this on the fact that the voltage was reading fine and the car showed no signs of a weak battery (lights dimming when starting, multiple clicks when starting, slow turnover, etc).

Anyway thanks to Lucasmartin's post went back again and with a new battery it works fine - issue gone.

THANK YOU!