: Strut Piston Comes Off



asilverblazer
10-01-11, 03:59 PM
In break down of the magnetic struts of a 2003 Seville, should the strut piston be able to come completely out? Doesn't seem right to me. And I don't think it is good to find a lightweight gritty grease leaking everywhere, about a 1/4 of a cup all together at the most.

johnny kannapo
10-01-11, 10:46 PM
Pictures would be interesting to see. I would conclude the piston should never come out. It's rather hard to believe. I am not privy to the consistancy of the specialty fluid use in the Magride dampners but if the piston comes out I would suspect serious damage in that strut/shock.

asilverblazer
10-05-11, 01:38 PM
I agree, it is making an awful banging thumping clunking noise. Especially since I took it off, to replace the upper mount, hoping to fix the racket, instead its much worse.

Looks like I will be tearing it all down and replacing the strut this week.

Anybody have a link to the step by step? I'm not certain I put the upper mount on correctly, the piece that alters the angle of the top of the strut.

Submariner409
10-05-11, 01:51 PM
You NEED a real GM/Helm service manual or a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com (http://www.alldatadiy.com).

ANY fluid leaking from an F55 strut is cause for replacement - and I would strongly suggest you replace BOTH front struts - if one is excessively worn, so is the other.

Replace both upper strut bearings, too.

Talk to Chris in Parts at Rippy Cadillac over there >>>>>>>>>>

asilverblazer
10-05-11, 09:04 PM
At 48K miles and 500$? I'll take my chances replacing one.

asilverblazer
10-06-11, 12:31 PM
Ugh, why did you have to say "ANY" fluid, because there is a bit at the seal of the passenger side.

I am definately getting the impression the car has hit something substantial at the front drivers side.
I have discovered since buying it:
Busted Strut
Bent Wheel with a pin hole leak
New tie rod end
Missing nut on the transmission/cradle mount bolt (the one behind the drivers side strut)

I incorrectly guessed the clunking was the steering shaft during our test drive, didn't see any fluid until lifting the boot up on the strut, while poking around there notice a non-factory tie rod end, meanwhile, a tire kept losing air though a suspected nail, plugged, still leaked, put in water tank, find hole in wheel, and it all starts to add up now.

Having said/discovered all this, what more should I be looking for?

johnny kannapo
10-06-11, 06:26 PM
Is there evidence of a recent history collision repair? Many times collision repairs neglect to address damage not visible only to be realized after ill tire wear becomes present and chassis damage is revealed.

STS_Seville_Hunter
10-06-11, 08:18 PM
You mean like this?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/goddamnyourighteoushand/100_1383.jpg

Submariner409
10-07-11, 12:15 AM
At 48K miles and 500$? I'll take my chances replacing one.

Whatever - You're trying to maintain a $58,000 car on the cheap. $1,000 for suspension parts is peanuts on the scale of things...............

BUT the evidence of right front steering and suspension parts replacement is not good - not good at all. Start snooping for missing body rivets, plastic rivets, odd welds, plastic liners and pieces.

asilverblazer
10-07-11, 10:38 AM
Is there evidence of a recent history collision repair? Many times collision repairs neglect to address damage not visible only to be realized after ill tire wear becomes present and chassis damage is revealed.

Carfax was clean.

asilverblazer
10-07-11, 10:43 AM
Whatever - You're trying to maintain a $58,000 car on the cheap. $1,000 for suspension parts is peanuts on the scale of things...............

BUT the evidence of right front steering and suspension parts replacement is not good - not good at all. Start snooping for missing body rivets, plastic rivets, odd welds, plastic liners and pieces.

No, mine was 10K$ car. :lol: so spending 10% is a bit different on my scale. I do want to replace it right, but I'd like to do it with out eating Ramen for 3 months straight.

And I am finding a bunch of the odd plastic rivets. My concern is more unfixable items, bent frame/body.

Should the body mounts have a loose piece in them? I thought about tightening them up to spec. (if they aren't) But thought the loose middle section might be some sort of absorbtion material.

asilverblazer
10-07-11, 10:44 AM
You mean like this?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a108/goddamnyourighteoushand/100_1383.jpg

Yes, but a different strut. The bottom of the piston was straight cut, no nut no nothing.

johnny kannapo
10-07-11, 02:02 PM
Look at that!
It looks like bottoming out damage although I suppose it may have just been defective and came apert inside there.

That is not the piston, its the rod the piston is fastened too.

Does it look broken on the end?
You want to restore the Magride it is a trick option that was only common to the Corvette when introduced.

Submariner409
10-07-11, 04:42 PM
You want to restore the Magride it is a trick option that was only common to the Corvette when introduced.

Other way around , j k, .......the 2002.5 - 2003 STS (Seville) was the F55 Magnetic Ride Control test mule. Corvette got it late in the 2003 model year.

asilverblazer
10-08-11, 02:13 PM
Look at that!
Does it look broken on the end?
You want to restore the Magride it is a trick option that was only common to the Corvette when introduced.

No, it did not look broken. Just covered in the gritty grease. I am letting this be my confirmation the clunking noise is in fact the strut...

I am replacing it with a new Magnaride strut, I just can't afford to both right now. I'll see how it goes once I get the new one to determine how quickly I replace the other side.

johnny kannapo
10-08-11, 05:59 PM
Thats a reasonable plan.
You will know if there is unequal dampening, it can be a scary out of control feeling but seeing the car has only 28,000mi it may be ok.

Submariner409
10-08-11, 08:15 PM
I am replacing it with a new Magnaride strut, I just can't afford to both right now. I'll see how it goes once I get the new one to determine how quickly I replace the other side.

When you are finished with the job, inflate the tires to 34 psi, COLD, and do a test drive: On your way to the rural country roads, check the front end dive and stability. Does the nose drop evenly upon aggressive braking ?? Does it rise evenly upon aggressive acceleration ? Out in the boonies, find a straight stretch of road that will allow you to do a long series of shallow S-turns at about 35 - 40 mph. Does each front corner dive the same amount from right to left turns ? You should be able to make RADICAL changes in direction (S-turns) with very little nosedive, body roll, or any sensation of loss of control. As the car senses that you are in an aggressive driving mode the suspension should tighten further until the road and steering feedback is pretty intense. If you really get carried away, the transmission will enter PAS (Performance Algorithm Shifting) mode in which you are, in effect, driving a foot-shifted manual transmission. If you're willing to experiment, the F55 cars are capable of maneuvering and handling that the F45 series can only dream about.