: Deville drum brake problem, overheating.

09-29-11, 05:16 AM
Trying to write shortly as may language not so good.
My coupe deville 79 has a overheating problem with right rear brake.
On last year was changed , cilindres and brake fluid and brake pads as well. And after that brake started overheat, cos mechanic overtighten emergency brake. After releasing this, and some homework by myself it was ok. On this year ja changed right emergeny brake cable. Now i have problem like i said. Maybe this overheating started earlier but i noticed that a few weeks ago after passign about 250miles and brake started to make weird noise.
Noe i have tryed many things, releasing brake cable, changing cilinder again, and all springs which keeping all this stuff together but still nothing.
There is change that somwhere in pipes sitting some kind crap which works like piston, fluid goes only one way and keeps pads under pressure or smth.
Pads are bad after getting too hot many timest (actually i dont know when this probleb excactly started).
Starwheel making "jokes", keeping pads too tight.
BTW, left side starwheel can move both side (maybe it is a bit more worn out than used to, but lefts side brakes still nice), right side starwheel moves only one way, only tights no way, no any move backward (dont know should it move backwar or not ).

09-29-11, 09:23 AM
Replace the star adjuster on the bad side if you can't get it to free up. I have managed to take apart a seized one and get it working, but that was when I was really young and had zero money for car repairs.

09-29-11, 09:36 AM
Thnx for your offering:). But i trying to explain starwheel case.
Left said wich working properly no heating but brakes well - there is starwheel which can torn both sides, that means on working condition the "tool" which turning star if needed, staying on "rest" position and you can easly turn starwheel back (maybe this is not supposed to be like that but it works fine).
Right side (problem side), starwheel works fine but that "tool" does not let turn starwheel back, So you must move that "tool" a little bit away to turn star bakcwards.
And i dont know which condition is like it use to be.

EDIT: "tool" = self adjuster (probably correct words).

09-29-11, 10:53 AM
Yes, the tool is the self adjuster. It is designed to adjust your brakes when you apply them going in reverse.

09-29-11, 10:57 AM
Yes i know that, but question is, should that adjuster let to starwheel move backward (read releasing brake pads) or should it block backward moving at all.

09-29-11, 01:57 PM
So, things going weird. Just for testing, i changed pads, and lever (connected with emergency brake system and stays between pads) between both sides. And ... now left side started overheat??!!
So, no better idea than pads are wrong, defective whatever or is there any othe trick?

09-29-11, 03:29 PM
There is a good chance that your problem is the rubber hose that is over the rear end... The hose can swell up inside and not let the fulid flow back and keep the brakes on. Change the hose...

09-29-11, 04:25 PM
As far as I remember, the star wheel can be turned only one way if you do not push away a stopper plate with a screwdriver.

09-30-11, 08:44 AM
Drum brakes may have gotten messed when you overheated the brake the first time, The overheating often causes the hardware to become stressed, and perhaps not operate correctly. Perhaps a pin got chafed badly and failed. Springs don't have the tension they are supposed to, and other parts can get out of shape. Pull the drums and check things out. Clean up any build up, and apply some lubricant, to the rub surfaces on the backing plate. Perhaps something got assembled incorrectly. Check your brake cables and make sure they are operating freely.
If the flex hose has failed due to internal deteriorating, both brakes will lock.

09-30-11, 09:37 AM
If the problem switched from one side to the other after a repair, I would think it has something to do with a clogged line. Maybe the line with the T-fitting is clogged, the one above the axle that splits to both wheels. The stopper should be touching and only let the wheel turn one way. Maybe you gotta go fast and hit the brakes hard in reverse to get the old stuff to self-adjust? Have you tried opening the bleeder to see if it relieves some of the pressure on the brakes? Maybe put the rotor on half way and hit the brakes to see if everything moves like it supposed to. I dont know, just tossing out ideas.

10-01-11, 12:38 AM
If it was because of a clogged line the problem would stay with the same side.
Since the problem moved when you moved the parts, replace the shoes and springs again and see what happens. If the drums are worn they can cause problems too.

The Ape Man
10-02-11, 04:32 PM
Are you sure the wheel bearings don't have too much play. The axle shaft is used as a bearing race. After a long time the axles wear. When the bearings have a lot of play the rear brakes wear rapidly, run hot and make rumbling noises.

The problem changing sides can all be because of adjustment after repair.

10-05-11, 02:40 AM
So, im back, after having a nice weekend with other caddy owners here.
That was good, but bad that all the time was brake very hot, or extremly hot. But yesterday i changed pads. Got new ones (seems little bit different than old ones, different manufacturer i guess). After installing them and making about 20 min test drive all was OK. Both side had same temperature, lightly warm. But, dont say nothing more, just need to do some extra bleeding again - maybe, and want to know how good or bad rear brakes are right now (need to do some tests before to give final decision) and adjust emergengy brake as well.