View Full Version : Runs like S**T
Since I've had the engine back into my car it's running bad bad bad. WOT there is certainly no lack of power and the idle is pretty smooth, however under very light throttle the surging and bucking is really annoying and it just seems to be getting worse. The only trouble code I'm getting is an intermintent knock sensor circuitry failure (PO132) and I'm suspecting a dirty connector for that. At first I thought I had a serious vacuum leak but some carb cleaner around the TB and manifold produced no results. I'm starting to think it may be fuel related as the engine will run fine for a few seconds and then surge, buck and chuggle... I don't know if it makes any difference, but while the engine was apart the fuel rail sat upside down in the garage for a week. I installed new delco plugs & wires, new manifold gaskets, TB seal and O-ring as well as replacing the O-ring in the manifold pressure relief plug. A side note, when I was finishing installing the wiring harness I was doing it in the rain. I had the engine covered w/ a tarp and when the rain would let up I would work on it some more. Is it possible that if some of the connectors were wet they would cause this sort of problem?
10-28-04, 12:13 AM
EGR problems can cause those symptoms. Double check that.
You mentioned doing the wiring in the rain, if nothing else shows up pull the connectors and give them a shot of WD-40.
You might want to verify the plug wires (and plugs) are good. They seem to act up under light throttle more than WOT.
10-28-04, 01:36 AM
I would check you coil packs for spark, and fuel pressure regulator for leaks.
I reallly need your help with this one guys, this has turned into a 2 part problem...
I hooked up an inductive timing light to see if I'm getting spark to all the cylinders, and sure enough I am. Idling and High RPM's are pretty good but at part throttle you can see the light cut out. It's the same on every wire. I started thinking that I had possibly got the 2 crank sensor connectors on the wrong sensors, but after pulling the connectors and verifiying the color code on the wire and doing a continuity test they were in the right positions. We then proceeded to do a continuity test from one end of the wiring harness to the other and everything checked out. We did all the ignition tests in the book and again everything checked out. The ignition fuses in the engine compartment fuse box were a little corroded so I pulled all the fuses and cleaned them as well as all the contacts in the fuse box thinking I was getting weak voltage but that didn't help either. The only thing I can think of is that the ICM itself has gone bad or is it possible that one or both of the crank sensors can cause this problem? I can't find anything in the book about and ohms test for either the ICM or the crank sensors.
Since reinstalling the engine, I still have my oil leak, what I thought was the oil pan turned out to be the oil manifold on the block side. As of now my car is poised on stands and if I can get my rides to work secured for the next week, I'm going to pull the engine out again today. I've been through the book on this one too and of course very little is said about the oil manifold and then the caddy guys told me that the gasket is intergal to the manifold and that I need to spend $125 to replace it. Problem is that I have to have this thing fixed within the week and there is no way I can come up with that kind of money at this point. Is there any reason that an anerobic sealer won't work to seal the top of the oil manifold to the block? Any help would be greatly apprecitated
The oil manifold handles oil under pressure really not a good place to trust a patch. It may be leaking pressure internaly. To save the engine replace the oil manifold. LOL sts96
Well...Got the engine out and on the stand again today, once I pulled the oil manifold I saw at least 8 places where it was leaking. Once I saw the seal side I realized that I would have to buy a new one, I'll pick it up tomorrow. I think I found the reason for my erratic ICM signal too. As I was unbolting the engine from the transaxle, I noticed that I didn't have the wiring harness down were it should have been and one of the hose clamps from the heater hose tubes was rubbing into the loom. I peeled back the loom and wouldn't you know it, the power wire for the ICM was right on top, the clamp had cut through some tape and I think the insulation too, I'll get a better look @ it tomorrow.
while you are this close it would pay to pull the bottom case and replace the seals on the crank case half. LOL sts96
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