: Tackling the deaded broken rear most d/s manifold broken bolt, and then some



thefleetwoodguy
09-17-11, 01:36 AM
:so the 1994 dk/cherry has the two most rear d/s manifold bolts broke off
since this car was sold locally
I had to make good on her
so , off came the drivers side head, NO FUN!!!
but once removed I was able to drill out the broken bolts, re tap, and replace the head all in all about 3 days work, at about 5 hours a day
it wasnt fun at all, but its done!
and there are a few band aid fixes
but I want to do it the RIGHT way
were Im selling this car
its 90% done now and I can post some pics
but its not an easy fix!, although not a major deal either

thefleetwoodguy
09-17-11, 02:15 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70196.jpg
the culprits! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70198.jpg
drilled and tapped
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70201.jpg
clean all residue off the head bolts (thread sealer)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70202.jpg
keep bolts and pushrods marked for replacement in there
correct places
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70203.jpg
clean all gasket surfaces to clean metal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70205.jpg
one side before and one side aft
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70206.jpg
clean all surfaces
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70207.jpg
can post more pics if anyones interested
a lot of labor but in the end it will be back to original condition
got 1-2 more days to go, at least at my pace.....................

Rick James
09-17-11, 07:13 AM
Looking good. It's great to see a thread like this.

outsider
09-17-11, 08:34 AM
nice to see this as it's going to be in my future soon (both of mine are missing) did you only pull the head off because you had to drill and tap? I know if there's any bolt left sticking out of the head you can weld a nut on it and try to turn it out that way.

what a long process pulling off the heads...yikes.

jayoldschool
09-17-11, 12:00 PM
Even if the bolt is broken off below the head you can use the welded nut technique. You just build up the weld. The heat will break the bolt loose easily.

I guess I shouldn't mention that if you install headers they don't use that last hole. Headers use the unused hole closest to the port.

May as well throw a nice cam in there while you are at it! You've done all the hard work... :D

I know, I know... not a hot rod, just a nice quiet stock car for a customer.

turbojimmy
09-17-11, 03:34 PM
Funny, I usually use an old pair of shorts to cover the lifter valley, too.

Cadillacboy
09-17-11, 05:07 PM
Cool job , it makes me bedazzle how on earth these bolts gets broken . I think they cheaped out metal quality

turbojimmy
09-17-11, 05:20 PM
Cool job , it makes me bedazzle how on earth these bolts gets broken . I think they cheaped out metal quality

I don't know what the problem is, but it seems they all do it. Thankfully, it looks like someone already went through the trouble of repairing them on my '94. The manifold has been welded and all the bolts are in tact.

On my '96, I repaired the bolts with the engine out and it sucked. I can't imagine doing it with the engine in the car.

thefleetwoodguy
09-17-11, 05:32 PM
In this case both broken bolts were recessed about 1/32 into the head
with the head in place there was no way the welder gun would fit into that space
once the head was off, its not that bad getting the broken pieces out
since Ive done a lot of them over the years
a good tip when replacing the head, without a helper
I take two long bolts the same size thread as the head bolts
I cut the heads off both, cut a slot in there top for a flat blade screw driver
then screw one in each side of the block, now all you do is use them as a guide slide the head right on, and in place, rather then struggle with it
and chance damaging the new headgasket
this job is not fun but since I have the time, I wanted to make it right
I am thinking about using two studs in that location, rather then another bolt
Ive been told cant confirm, that its the manifold expanding and contracting that breaks the bolts, some guys say to cut the strip of manifold that connects the ports, but I cant say it works or not,
Ive got the head on torqued, the rockers I was able to not remove them and just snaked the pushrods under there rockers before tightening the headbolts another time the home made guide dowels are a big help
once I had a couple head bolts in finger tight I removed the guide bolts

this job is like having a prostate exam from capt Hook!...lol
but its mostly done now so Im already trying to forget about it
the fun part (not) is my 95 3xblack has 1 broken bolt too!!
may try something different with that


Jay, I was going to ask you to take a drive down and lend a hand!!
did you ever make it to NH this year, I never heard back from you?

Cadillacboy
09-17-11, 05:35 PM
I don't know what the problem is, but it seems they all do it. Thankfully, it looks like someone already went through the trouble of repairing them on my '94. The manifold has been welded and all the bolts are in tact.

On my '96, I repaired the bolts with the engine out and it sucked. I can't imagine doing it with the engine in the car.

Hey, that's good news indeed . I knew you were mechanically inclined because that's not a job for freshmans

jayoldschool
09-17-11, 07:03 PM
Jim, my apologies for not getting back to you! It was hectic before we left on the trip.

I would suggest cutting out the bar. GM says do it. I would also use grade 8 bolts, and get the good GM metal gaskets.

When I bought my 94 wagon, all the bolts on both sides had been done by a garage. The labour cost was more than I paid for the car...

thefleetwoodguy
09-18-11, 09:36 PM
Jim, my apologies for not getting back to you! It was hectic before we left on the trip.

I would suggest cutting out the bar. GM says do it. I would also use grade 8 bolts, and get the good GM metal gaskets.

When I bought my 94 wagon, all the bolts on both sides had been done by a garage. The labour cost was more than I paid for the car...

hey no problem
maybe next time around, the prospects of my house selling anytime soon
are grim, I already lowered the price to less then I paid for it in 2004
so I may be stuck here a bit longer then planned......

thefleetwoodguy
09-18-11, 09:51 PM
well my fears were confirmed, the front of the engine
was a bit more greasy then typical, so off with the opti
since most of the parts related were already off
the factory distributor seal was toast!they are famous for separating
thats why you must always change this seal when you do an opti
heres the seal good and bad http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70208.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/hemijimbo/mopars/STA70209.jpg

jayoldschool
09-18-11, 10:38 PM
Delete that AIR pump while you are in there. So much easier to work on without the pump and tube.

The colored zip ties on the spark plug wires are so much nicer than masking tape/sharpie!