View Full Version : Car will not stay running!
09-11-11, 09:22 PM
Was driving my car to work today. Everything was going smooth until I went onto the on ramp (incline). All of a sudden my car started hesistating the whole way to work. It would not let me push the gas without it hesitating and stumbling. During lunch break right now I'm trying to start it and it will not stay running. It turns over runs for maybe 2-5 seconds and cuts off. I've replace the fuel pump, carburetor, points and the whole tune up. Also an inline glass filter was installed. It's showing gas in the filter so what could the problem possibly be? Please help and not just view.
09-11-11, 09:53 PM
The first thing I would do is check that there is a enough fuel in the carb... After it starts and stalls , take off the top of the air cleaner and look down the front 2 ports and open the throttle all the way... You should see two streams of gas shooting in... If you don't see the streams of gas,then there is no gas..If you got the streams then there is a good chance you have a ignition problem...maybe a coil or a broken ground wire... If you think its ignition try pulling off the vacume hose off the distrubtor vacume advance and see if it runs better.. if it does it could be a ground wire in the distrubtor..
09-11-11, 10:16 PM
Tha ms for responding. I will try thT when I get off work in an hour. I'll post to let you know what happens.
09-12-11, 01:27 AM
it eventually started. I made it all the way to around the corner from my house before it wouldn't start again. It made no difference if the vacuum advance was on or off. I ordered a fuel strainer to go inside the tank and replace the old one. Hopefully it comes in this week and I shall see if it improves anything.
09-12-11, 08:36 PM
Have you left your key on for a long time lately? That's one way to burn up a coil. A cracked distributor cap is pretty hard to find too but usually in the end it ends up being the points. Too bad you didn't have a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge to verify good fuel pressure. It should be easy since you have the clear filter. If it is staying full though then it must have enough fuel. good luck.
im thinking trash in the tank or bad wire/connection at the pump. how long ago did u replace all that stuff? is that the first incline u encounter on your way to work?
09-13-11, 01:19 PM
I bought the car in march and it had just had a fresh tune up before purchase. Only thing i changes about the tune up was the spark plugs because he had champion in it. All these other items have been replaced within the last 3 weeks. I just dropped the fuel tank and its actually pretty clean. I still have a new strainer that will be in probably tomorrow. It's a mechanical fuel pump. On the subject of the coil I have failed to check that when the car has acted up on me. I don't remember leaving the key in but I will not rule that out. The points were replaced too. I would buy new points but I don't know how to set that unless it comes set. Thanks everyone for helping me and being patient with me. I'll give an pdate once I change the coil and strainer. Also the ground wire was unhooked that goes to the assembly at the fuel tank. might be why my fuel gauge doesn't stay steady.
I forgot to mention it backfires also
09-16-11, 10:46 AM
ok I didnt have the return cable hooked up to the new carburetor which is installed now. New fuel line and fuel strainer. Also here is a link to the video I did so maybe I can help visualize my problem(s)
09-17-11, 05:44 PM
Several things come to mind, even with the vacuum advance not working like yours isn't, it shouldn't stall that easy. When it stalls, if you look down the carb and move the throttle, do you see fuel squirting? It acts like the accelerator pump isn't working. Is that glass fuel filter always full? If there is lots of fuel in the see through filter and there is a nice squirt of gas when you look down the carb then it could be the float level in the carb or some other malfunction or something gummed up or........those darn points The only way I ever adjust points is with a dwell meter. You need to buy one or figure out how to put an HEI ignition on it. To do that I think you need to change some pulleys though.
It does start easy though so it should be a good running engine once you get things sorted out. You should replace the vacuum advance canister too. That vacuum hose does have vacuum coming to it right?
09-17-11, 05:52 PM
I just saw the other intro thread and your carb is new huh? They usually work pretty good out of the box. That makes me think it is more ignition related now. Getting the timing and points and vacuum advance corrected should wake it up.
09-17-11, 09:24 PM
Thanks. I changed the ignition coil with an accel after market one. It fired up better. It didn't hesitate when I drove it and tried to dog it out to see if it would. I'll also change the vacuum advance but is that difficult to change? I have opgi magazine and it shows an electronic ignition piece that just replaces the points only so i may look into that also. The fuel filter today was completely full with fuel and this is the first time I've seen that since my problems. Thanks for all the help. I'll upload another video tomorrow with an update to show what it is doing.
09-18-11, 12:00 PM
There is apossibility your problem is inside your distributor. This problem may be caused by your condenser. The condensers you get today are form overseas somewhere and no where as good as the ones we used to get from local distributors. Tyr throwing in a new condenser and see if that dosen't have a positive effect on your car's running. My cousin just went through this, so I've had some first hand experience. Check the points also, a bad condenser will help mess points in short order.
09-19-11, 01:45 PM
car is still running strong and I still plan to change the vacuum advance. Is it hard to change?
here is the latest video and I also address a part which I do not know the name of.
09-20-11, 09:14 PM
The advance is eazy to change.. Take off the cap ... there are , I think , 3 screws, take the out then unhook the arm and put the new one in...
10-03-11, 06:54 PM
Sorry I havent been on. New job so new schedule. It does seem that the ignition coil fixed the problem.. I drove it for two days and heard grinding when braking. I changed the front brakes and next will be a full overhaul on the rear drums. seems these brakes haven't been changed in forever to much metal on metal action. I still need to order new rotors for the front $108 a piece so I'm hoping these brake pads can last atleast for a month. thanks again guys I will also post pics if I can because I finally gave it its second bath since owning it.81204
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.5 Copyright © 2016 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO