: throtle linkage?



dyess1133
10-26-04, 11:43 AM
i read in the edelbrock catalog that the intake mannifold for the 472/500, "does not accept oem throtle linkage" does anyone know what the fix for this is or do i have to rig somthing up?

Spyder
10-26-04, 02:25 PM
MacGuyver it! It'll be more impressive anyways, when you tell everyone, "Yea, it wouldn't fit, so I just threw this little contraption together to make it work." I did the same with my 'ol Dodge truck, and it works great...just stare and it until you figure something out! :) Nah, but you could call Edelbrock, get the tech support number from the website, or the catalog, and they'll be able to tell you in just a minute.

davesdeville
10-26-04, 06:48 PM
It raises the carb a couple inches from stock level, so the cable that connects to the carb will need to be longer. I think.

DaveSmed
10-26-04, 10:36 PM
It works fine. unscrew the little ball part of the ball and socket linkage end, and reuse that. The carb comes with a new one, but forget getting the old one out, just use the original. Lines right up.

68' Big Body
11-03-04, 03:13 AM
DaveSmed, I think you might have his question regarding the 'Intake Manifold' mixed up with your reply for an Edelbrock Carb. His question is a valid because it's the truth, the throttle linkage on my 68 Fleetwood with the ball type fitting you mentiond was still able to be connected to my OEM Quadrajet Carb after I fited the new Intake Manifold 2115. The problem though, is on the original setup, the stock manifold had a part that sits just forward and to the right of the Carb mounted on a small plate (with 2 wires fed into it and was spring loaded), and the linkage arm you mention was attached to this piece while this piece was then attached to the side of the Carb. The issue for me (not knowing the name of that part I mentioned) was that while the Carb was now 3" higher, there was no way to also raise this part up to the same level. This part can not be deleted because it is what returns the throttle lever to is resting position once you let off the throttle. Remember it's spring loaded. The Edelbrock intake Manifol does have pre-drilled holes in the same area as the stock unit did for such a part but the holes aren't spaced correctly, and if they did you still would have to get this small part raised up by 3" to match the Carb. So while you 'CAN' attach the throttle linkage, as you stated, it WILL NOT operate correctly unless you make provisions for this part to also work in conjunction with it, just like stock. I will post a pic, I will show you..

:thumbsup:

See Ya,
Phil

68' Big Body
11-03-04, 03:38 AM
This is the part in question that you'd have to raise up 3" just as you did with the Carb itself. The second picture is how I got around this small detail, by screwing in a bolt into one of the holes provided in the Manifold (remember the ones I said were incorrectly spaced but were there), then wrapped an Aluminun strap around it and fixed the spring that was already there, only it was used with the part in pic #1 instead. As it has been stated, fitting the throttle linkage is not the problem, but fitting the return spring and / or deceleration dashpot is.

:thumbsup:

See Ya,
Phil

DaveSmed
11-03-04, 10:09 AM
Ah, got me. :D Anyway based on your pic, did you retain the kickdown switch anywhere? I axed the dashpot and kickdown on mine when changing carbs so I forgot about the return dashpot, whos function is to prevent stalls by cushoning the throttle when you let off sharply. The kickdown switch isn't an essental item, because kickdowns are regulated via two ways with TH400s, with the vacuum modulator and with the detent solenoid which vents pressure out of a line to the detent valve. Your trans might not always kickdown when it used to, or as quick as it did before, but with all that torque :lildevil: its not TOO big of a deal (you can always manually kickdown). To see if yours even works, open the hood, and move the linkage to WOT with the engine off. You should hear a click from the transmission. If you dont, yours didn't work anyway and there will be no difference from axing it.

68' Big Body
11-03-04, 04:02 PM
So, if I understand correctly...that part I posted in the pic that had the 2 wires attached was fro the kickdown? You know I didn't know what that part did but I do remember that after the changes were made the car didn't kickdown as often when floored, as it did before. Well, if that the case, I could just re-attach that part only without the dashpot and plate. The 2 wires are still there and I could make that work cause I'd like the kickdown function to work if all possible. Next, moving the linkage to WOT I hear only fuel being injected into the Carb, but no other sounds such as the 'click' you mentioned. where is this switch located and how do I make it operational?

Also, how do you manually kickdown the trnnny?

:thumbsup:
See Ya,
Phil

DaveSmed
11-03-04, 04:52 PM
You could do that, or many aftermarket vendors carry kickdown switches. I know Lokar makes one, (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=LOK%2DKD2400HT&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=TH400+kickdown) B&M does too. (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=BMM%2D20297&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=TH400+kickdown)

Manually kickdown? Move the shifter down a notch or two, depending on your speed. Use with care. ;) With your car, >40-45 go to L, between 45-90 the right-hand Drive. May or may not apply to other cars, including your car. Works nice on mine, and those figures give a bit of cushion. You shouldn't be able to put your car in 1st at 90, but theres other things you can do wrong (like not upshifting at those speeds) that can break stuff.