: %^&$%* Slave Cylinder bolts...If you have removed your transmission, please help.



CadzillaTN
09-10-11, 09:38 PM
Transmission is almost out, but I can't get the slave cylinder bolts to break free. I almost rounded one of them off.

Are they size 10??? I only had a long/cheap/offset autozone 10 with a hex end, didn't work...stripped the driver side bolt just a little bit :/

8,9,and 3/8 don't fit...so it has to be a 10.

Heading to Sears to get a long combo 10 wrench.

To make matters worse, the POS craftsman jack I have is not holding for some reason, must be low on oil, it is losing pressure every 15 min.. so I cannot leave it there all night.

Is there any way I can remove this thing without removing the two bolts holding the slave? (I assume not :()Darkman's pdf says 106 in/lbs tight for these bolts when re-installing. They seem to be on much tighter than that....If I can get the one out I've almost ruined I'll certainly have to replace it.

what a pita, almost get this thing out and two little bolts are stopping me. aaargh! The one on the passenger side seems even tougher to get to. I hope they have a long 10 at Sears....

thanks for the help.

rand49er
09-10-11, 11:05 PM
Hopefully, it's not too late. Make sure you use 6-point sockets (if you're not already).

106 in-lbs isn't that much torque to remove I wouldn't think. Wonder why they're so difficult.

CadzillaTN
09-10-11, 11:46 PM
no way to get a socket in there, trust me I tried. You can only pull the trans back just enough to get a wrench on them.

I got them off though...Lots of little turns. They weren't really on too tight, just stuck on..The long 10 I just got worked fine. I have several 10mms from other sets but none were long enough. That gear wrench set at Sears sure was tempting (I've been looking for an excuse to buy a set) but 10mm was still too short.

I also got the trans off....it tried to roll on me like a gator but my homemade transmission jack worked fine. The hardest part was clearing the input shaft away from the slave and clutch bits enough to lower it down...still more awkward than I expected. I did not drain the fluid out, I didn't think it would make it that much lighter or easier to remove.

new problem though, I can't get it out from under the car LOL...I guess I didn't realize the front end is as large as the bell housing. I'll actually have to go buy new jackstands tomorrow that will raise the car higher.


I've stepped off into the deep end with this project. I really have no clue how I'll get it back in there...don't how I'll start those slave bolts either...not to mention all the trans connectors or lining up everything. The "rolling chassis" just might be getting towed to a lift location when I get ready to reinstall...dont know yet. Next weekend the bell housing and clutch parts come out.

precision construction. saved me $129.99 lol
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMAG1993.jpg


lulz
http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMAG1997.jpg

aggie1979
09-10-11, 11:56 PM
http://www.ezgrip.net/

I don't know if you guys ever heard of this stuff. I work on airplanes and you don't know how many times I've removed a panel and the last screw being stripped. Just a drop of this stuff and poof it's broken loose.
We were tightening a large nut with a spanner wrench. The wrench would spread open and slip off with about 140 ft lbs of torque. Just a couple of drops was enough grip to torque the nut.
I can go on and on about jobs that we've used it on. Hope this helps you guys.

lollygagger8
09-12-11, 10:26 AM
Gear wrench.

Gear Wrench.

GEAR WRENCH.

They make life sooooooo much easier!!!

I got mine out with a gear wrench.....you must've not separated the trans far enough from the bell housing to get your fingers in there.

Did you not read this? I said get your V jacked up waaaay high to get that puppy outta there
around the 6th paragraph down ;)

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-performance/181141-monster-clutch-install.html

Oh, and 106 INCH lbs....not FT lbs. Those screws are barely in there. Let me know if you have troubles Boss.

ctsv154
09-12-11, 11:08 AM
All you really have to do is disconnect the quick connect and remove the slave once its out of the car.

PISNUOFF
09-12-11, 12:58 PM
All you really have to do is disconnect the quick connect and remove the slave once its out of the car.

Yup. There is a disconnect in the middle of the line on the way up to the master cylinder. Pull the silver locking clip and pull the connection apart.

CadzillaTN
09-12-11, 03:06 PM
Thanks for the replies guys..

Lol quick connect huh...I must have missed that in my search. Live and learn.

Lolly, trust me I was tempted to get a gear wrench set at Sears. I know I need them...The 10mm was too short to reach, so I just bought the long regular/single...I'll get them soon enough..

The pdf said remove an inch and a half to get clearance... Naturally, I dropped one wrench in the bell trying to determine the bolt size when the cheap 10 I had wasnt working..so I taped a ferro magnet to another wrench to fish it out.. lost that one too.

I measured the back of the trans and thought I had clearance to get it out...then I lowered it and said uhh, that ain't comin out. Since I'm not under pressure to complete, and my shoulder was tweaked, I just left it. On my list to buy this week is larger jackstands that will safely get me to 23" or so.

Other questions I have so far:

-What's that bent gold metal line coming from to the top of the trans with a silver tip that connects to, (nothing)?...

-I didn't force it down, but there seemed to be no way to lower it without tilting a bit (trying to clear the stupid slave boot). I had to raise it twice to pull back after it binded slightly. I'm hoping I didn't bend the input shaft.. Having not done this before I don't know how delicate the trans is... Is the input shaft stronger than the clutch parts in that scenario? It wasn't hanging 'by' the shaft, but angled nonetheless...

-Insulation crap- (I assume) mine got nice and mangled up from the dealer's two prior removals because it was just hanging there. I know what it does but I'm wondering how I can secure it back since the bolt mounting points are toast. Is there a better material I can buy to shield the tunnel like dynamat or is the fiberglass layer absolutely necessary?

-i currently have a big block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. When it just hangs there, is all the stress on the motor mounts? Seems like it should be supported until it's back together..

PISNUOFF
09-12-11, 03:53 PM
The bent tube with a cap is the vent tube. It is only connected to the side of the trans.

lollygagger8
09-13-11, 02:25 PM
Other questions I have so far:

-I didn't force it down, but there seemed to be no way to lower it without tilting a bit (trying to clear the stupid slave boot). I had to raise it twice to pull back after it binded slightly. I'm hoping I didn't bend the input shaft.. Having not done this before I don't know how delicate the trans is... Is the input shaft stronger than the clutch parts in that scenario? It wasn't hanging 'by' the shaft, but angled nonetheless...

Get the trans evenly across from the disc if that makes sense. You'll make it harder to pull out if you are on an angle up or down and the output shaft will bind in the clutch disc. As far as the input shaft being stronger, all I know is the clutch disc is stuck in between the pressure plate and flywheel and it's torqued really tight. That said, don't let the trans hang by the input shaft.



-Insulation crap- (I assume) mine got nice and mangled up from the dealer's two prior removals because it was just hanging there. I know what it does but I'm wondering how I can secure it back since the bolt mounting points are toast. Is there a better material I can buy to shield the tunnel like dynamat or is the fiberglass layer absolutely necessary?

I suppose you could use dynomat for the sound deadening purposes. As far as the heat that is built up in there (how much..idk?) though, I would try to leave as much as the oem stuff in there as I could. It might look $hitty, but nobody's going to see that when the trans is up in that tunnel.



-i currently have a big block of wood under the oil pan to support the engine. When it just hangs there, is all the stress on the motor mounts? Seems like it should be supported until it's back together..

Yes, the motor will only be on the MM's when you take the trans out. I left mine on the MM's (but I had gen 2 UUC's) If you are on stockers, I would keep the engine hoisted up on the block of wood (hopefully the size of the entire oil pan)

Rakenjevnk
09-13-11, 03:42 PM
When I put my tranny back in (by myself) I used a jack on the front and a jack on the back of the tranny so I could control the angle it approached the motor at and didn't have to do any heavy lifting just some ballancing. I got the motor to hang down as low on the back as I could get it to go before the starter ran into the motor mount mount bracket. That gave me enough room to slide the tranny in slowly at a large enough angle that I could get the input shaft into the pressure plate then slowly bring up the back of the tranny so the shifter went up into the cabin. Small movements and watching the input shaft/pressure plate relation allowed me to gently get the tranny into a good position to safely move it forward with the shifter safe. Then I got the pilot bearing and splines lined up and pushed it forward till I needed to "man-handle" it a bit to get it to pop into the pilot bearing. I'm still a little scared that I may have pushed the pilot bearing into the crank a bit but it runs great :)

If you have really stiff motor mounts and the motor won't "hang" a bit I can see this being difficult. I had stockers in when I did the clutch but now I have the CS mounts. I'm not sure how they would effect the clutch job. I'm glad I have a pile of jacks to support the motor and move the tranny :) I almost made the same mistake with my car getting the tranny stuck underneath, I had to slide *ugh* it out on it's side. :bonkers:

CadzillaTN
09-14-11, 12:20 AM
Thanks guys. I have stock mounts but I modified them and filled with poly. They are still firm and in perfect condition. I'll leave the support under the oil pan for now just because I'm not sure when I'll get back to it.

On a sidenote, looks like a couple of crackheads may have tried to jimmy my trans out from under the car and steal it...lol. Suckers!

Rakenjevnk
09-14-11, 10:26 AM
It sure is in there tight... damn I need some crack!

CancerJCC
09-14-11, 12:25 PM
-Insulation crap- (I assume) mine got nice and mangled up from the dealer's two prior removals because it was just hanging there. I know what it does but I'm wondering how I can secure it back since the bolt mounting points are toast. Is there a better material I can buy to shield the tunnel like dynamat or is the fiberglass layer absolutely necessary?


I tore mine out and haven't noticed any ill effects in over 25k. I'm sure something would help with sound though.

CadzillaTN
09-24-11, 09:01 PM
skipped a week and went to the airshow both days last weekend...



Did you not read this? I said get your V jacked up waaaay high to get that puppy outta there
around the 6th paragraph down ;)

word. good thread, im gonna bump it and ask a couple questions about the bellhousing bolts. meantime, check these out... 12 ton! they are as tall on the lowest setting as my 2.5 ton were on the highest setting...I can sit indian style under there now.

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMAG2059.jpg

Northern Tool is my new favorite store.

lollygagger8
09-26-11, 11:17 AM
Nice addition to the garage!

verywhitedevil
09-26-11, 11:18 AM
damn that is a big jack stand. my jack want even get the car that high, LOL... just installed,almost, my UUC lightweight flywheel. remember to check one thing, don't let the slave line slip out of its groove in the tranny. it will get crushed. nothing like installing the tranny twice. should have checked that everything was working before installing the exhaust, driveshaft and lowered the car. bled the clutch,nothing. PITA

GDPossehl
09-26-11, 01:21 PM
This may be a little late if you've reinstalled the trans, but DEI heat screen is what I would use to reline the trans tunnel after ripping out all the stock heat shielding.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=DEI+heat+screen&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=15720349726384690258&sa=X&ei=MqaATqu5O86Ctgfaxa3eCQ&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAg

I got mine on Amazon and wrapped my rear exhaust with it. It comes in sheets that would be perfect for lining a trans tunnel. It's got adhesive on the back but I'd probably also use some self tapping sheet metal screws in a couple spots.

PISNUOFF
09-26-11, 01:42 PM
I would worry about rust when trying to use self tapping screws in the body, or drilling any holes in the body.

GDPossehl
09-26-11, 03:12 PM
I'm out of the rustbelt, so that doesn't cross my mind too often. But perhaps using the same attachment points as the OEM heat shielding won't cause extra rust.

CadzillaTN
11-21-11, 01:56 AM
Got the whole car back together this weekend... Except for that #@%&$! quick connect for the clutch line...maybe it was because I was drained from 2 days of work but that clip just won't go through there... I can get it to go halfway but that's it. I did get it go together but had to undo it to bolt the slave to the trans.

I was anxious to test everything out but of course now I have no clue if I got everything back together correctly because I couldn't bleed the clutch.

Some concerns but can't do anything about it now items:
- red loctite on way too many bolts (if stuff has to come apart I'm going to need a torch and an impact gun.
-couldn't get the driveshaft to diff bolts to 63 lbs, the bit wanted to round out the bolt so I chilled
-red loctite on the driveshaft to trans bolts, hope it's indexed correctly
-i bent the sh*t out if that remote bleeder fitting to straighten it out, praying I didn't jeopardize the integrity of the seal at the braided connection.
-hoping red loctite didn't get into the slave bleeder hole when I caked it on the threads of the fitting (it moved about even when tightened down so I sealed that b*itch in). If I ever need another slave I'm going to have to cut the line.
-did I say red loctite?
-didn't tighten the diff bolts in perfect star of david pattern
-trans wires connected properly but couldn't find half of the places where the grommets secured them to the trans
-didn't reinstall the heat shield above the trans, but did spray a bunch of 1500 degree silicone heat protectant on the tunnel

Battery is dead so I'll have to get it charged before I start it up...


Any tips on that dang quick connect? I had it lined up perfect 50 times but the clip just wouldn't go through...I would remove the driver side cat for more room but I can't get those manifold bolts loose..

5 months without the V I'm going through withdrawals! :alchi:

CancerJCC
11-21-11, 08:14 AM
Any tips on that dang quick connect?

I know I fought with it a bit but not that much. Maybe crush the retainer together a bit before trying to insert it? Also you are talking about removing the cat?! Mine had so much slack in the line I was working from above by the brake master. (This is with a Monster clutch though). G/L.

CadzillaTN
11-21-11, 03:56 PM
Yeah I tried to make it a bit narrower so the ends wouldn't catch and bind. I'm thinking about filing them down just a but to make them penetrate smoother.

The (my) quick connect line only goes from the clutch reservoir to the input line segment of the slave..and there's only enough slack to connect them together.

The remote bleeder is 3-4 feet, plenty of room there.

Removing the cat would just allow me to (comfortably) get 2 hands up in there and push the clip in while I hold the male/female ends together instead of having to do it one handed. I can even get 2 hands on it but can't push the clip through.. It seems to bind, whether I push from the larger or smaller slot in the female end. So frustrating.... I'm thinking there's a sweet spot between completely buried in the female end where the clip slips right in but I can't see what I'm doing when my hands are in the way.

CadzillaTN
11-21-11, 05:52 PM
Well I went out there guns blazing, ready to get the cat off.. Got one nut off (miracle) then rounded off the other one while tweaking my shoulder real good.

So, I went at it one handed again and it snapped right in. That sob is connected!

The good news is I saw fluid come out of the bleeder end, so I know it's flowing :thumbsup:

Headed to autozone to have them charge the battery, then I'm adding new oil, bleeding the clutch, and firing it up... Wish me luck.

I saw another V today, not local (mcnairy co tn) ...inspired me to get after it again before the weekend!...

CancerJCC
11-21-11, 08:25 PM
Glad to hear you got it. Its the little things that will hold you up for hours. MOD HELL for sure.

CadzillaTN
11-21-11, 11:47 PM
She's alive and running great!

Considering I once thought replacing a shifter was daunting, this project was quite an accomplishment as it was 100x harder.

I know it's stock, but the new clutch feels great, grabs just above the floor and feels smooth smooth all the way up. Previously I had no feel and it would grab up top at the last moment, very herky jerky. Clearly both the flywheel and clutch were gone at 67k. I can even start off in 1st gear!

Shifter feels great too, I tightened it up a bit and chopped another 1/4 inch off the stalk.

Car feels great in general, it's been 5 months or so since I drove it last. Now I know how the guys that store for the winter feel..

No specific 2500-3000 rpm vibes to speak of either, which is a pleasant surprise. Could be that I modified the trans mount to make the whole drivetrain sit level instead if sagging so bad.

It was wet so I couldn't give it the beans.. I'm still around mile 250 on my new diff so I have to take it easy for a few more weeks. Don't want to hop it at all. When it dries up I'll take it up north of 5k and see how that new clutch smells.

Naf
11-24-11, 02:33 AM
HAHA, you know a light tap with a hammmer will break the bond and you may remove the bolts...

Had a situation with a friends bmw and the screw just wouldnt come out. A few light taps helps, Plus SOAK that bugger in WD40

CadzillaTN
11-24-11, 02:44 AM
Nice to know.., thanks for the tip!