: Aftermarket aluminum radiator install thread- ALRADCO (American Made!)



Squid4life
08-31-11, 09:17 PM
AFTERMARKET ALUMINUM RADIATOR INSTALL THREAD- ALRADCO AMERICAN MADE!
Alright, there has been lots of discussions of radiators on the boards lately, and as I posted in a few other threads, I met a guy who has access and ability to have aluminum radiators built. They are built here in the US, in California no less! He started by building them for the Buick Grand National, as that is one of the cars he has, and is active on one of the other turbo Buick boards. He had one made, and I was able to do the testing on it. It fit perfect, works like a monster, and looks beautiful. I have the black powder coated one in my Grand National and it is amazing. So, I hit him up about doing one for the Cad-V’s. I know my car runs hot, but that is how these cars are designed with the high temp opening thermostats and super crazy high fan turn ons… I know the biggest problem on these cars’ radiators are that they leak/ seep at the seams. I know mine does.

So, I sent him my stock radiator as a mock up. He just finished the fabricated, all aluminum radiator and it looks FANTASTIC!!! The welds are amazing, the necks are super thick, the bolt bosses have heli-coils in them so you don’t pull them out the first time you tighten the fan down, etc.
Price: I finally get a chance to meet Peter in person when my wife and I were travelling in North Cali for a wedding. My wife and I got to meet him and his sons and this guy truly is a car-guy. Although he could ask much more for the radiators, he is not in it to make a bunch of money, just to make a good product for other car guys. This radiator is planned to be under $500. I know of others that are comparable, but can run $300 more than this one, if not more.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view1.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/view1.jpg

Anyhow, here is my install process with a ton of pics. I put them as photobucket links as not to drop the whole internet in one move… Enjoy, and please let me know if you have any questions.

EDIT: Right up front, this is a DROP IN RADIATOR, stock replacement (albeit wider) and not a bunch of mods are needed. As a matter of fact, there is only one mod done, and that is trimming a few inches off the tiny hose that leads to the top of the radiator. The stock airbox fits, etc. My big mouth cold air intake pipe fit, but needed a little dimple here and there. Dimpling was done with a heat gun (about $10 from Harbor Freight) and pressing a 1/8 – Ľ” dimple into it with the smooth end of a screwdriver.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/2004-2007-cadillac-cts-v-general/226847-possible-aluminum-radiator-cts-v-american.html

http://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-2004-2010/1216460-aftermarket-radiators-3.html

Alright, in case you don’t know how to remove the upper radiator cover there are two “rivets” and two little clips on the ends. I used two small screwdrivers to start pulling the head of the rivet up, then pulled it by hand. Here they are:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02023.jpg


Here is what they look like open and closed:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02024.jpg


After removing "rivets" for top cover, these little things clip in on the sides of the radiator hold down brackets.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02025.jpg


Here is the little top hose on top of the rad. This must be removed. Stupid leaking stocker…
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02027.jpg


Got to remove this screw, which holds the hard AC line on the side of the radiator fans. A 1/4" drive ratchet with a phillips head works well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02038.jpg


Disconnect this fan attachment. (drivers side fan motor) NOTE* compare this amount of clearance to the final install. This is ~1/2", ALRADCO if about 1/8" but fits fine. Can be overcome too if need be later.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02031.jpg


Disconnect this fan connector. (Pass side)
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02032.jpg

Squid4life
08-31-11, 09:18 PM
Disconnect the TPS wiring, just to be safe and not hit it later.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02033.jpg


Disconnect this water fitting off the throttle body area.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02034.jpg


Disconnect this hose barb on the top of the radiator.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02035.jpg
Remove the top radiator hose.


http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02036.jpg


Remove the two top radiator hold down brackets. Each held on by 2 bolts, 10mm socket.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02037.jpg


Here are the "rivets" that hold the chin spoiler/ front under engine plastic. You don't "HAVE" to remove it, but it makes life so much better, not having to reach around it to remove lower hose, etc.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02039.jpg


Lower rad hose and lower side of the radiator. Seeps like crazy... :(
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02043.jpg


Clearance from underneath. You see the crank pulley, idler pulley, fan and shroud, and the ABS hard lines.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02044.jpg


Have to remove two of these on the bottom of the rad. The fins you see to the left are the condenser for the AC, and the screw/bolt threads into the radiator. The bottom right of the pic is the frame area, with a cup in it for the radiator/bushing to sit in as a "locator" and to absorb shock. This is a 10mm socket as well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02050.jpg


Just remove the single 10mm bolt, not the other two 8 or 9mm ones. Those should only need to be loosened to adjust the bracket if the holes do not line up. Mine were spot on, no need to move them!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02052.jpg


I think I am supposed to be pointing to the "T" bracket where the stock fan fits on top of the T on the radiator.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02053.jpg


Remove the whole assembly together. I don't think the fan/rad will come out separate because of the hose necks. I know the rad won't, but not sure on the fan coming out alone...
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02054.jpg


Rad and fan out. I bet the supercharger guys wish they had this much room WITH the rad and fans in place, huh!?!?!?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02055.jpg


Stocker is a lightweight.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02056.jpg

Squid4life
08-31-11, 09:19 PM
ALRADCO is quite a bit heavier, but to be expected of a fabricated all aluminum radiator.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02058.jpg


Stocker liquid capacity, less than 3 quarts.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02060.jpg


ALRADCO liquid capacity, BUT NOT DONE YET!!! Holds 5 quarts, a full 2 quarts over the stocker.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02061.jpg


Need to take these rubber "bushings" off the bottom of the stock radiator, and reinstall on the alradco. You can see the posts where they go.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02063.jpg


Perfect line up!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02065.jpg


I zip-tied the condenser up so it doesn't hang on the drivers side hard line. I am using a Sharpie to point at a tight spot. The bracket with the hole in it could be filed to gain 1/4" or so of clearance if needed, but I didn't need it at all.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02066.jpg


As my superb handwriting and sign making abilities show, this bolt boss is not needed on the radiator, either the stocker or ALRADCO, as it is unused. Also, if installed like the stocker it sits directly on the wiring for the ABS controller.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02076.jpg


The corner of the cardboard is pointing at the unnecessary bolt boss. I thought I might have to grind it off, but just moved the wires a little bit, which should have been done with the stocker radiator as well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02077.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02078.jpg


Here is the wires that that last bolt boss sat on when the stocker was in the car. You can see the squished area. If you unhook those two metal clips you see on the bottom of the ABS controller bracket, and push the wiring back (up in this pic) they actually lay down in a channel, behind the lip of the bracket. This way the wires are about 1/2" lower, and further towards the back of the car, and the radiator doesn't sit on them.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02080.jpg


ALRADCO radiator with stock fan attached, ready to go in. Ready to DROP IN!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02081.jpg


Dropped right in like a stocker.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02083.jpg


Hooked up the little brackets holding the condenser to the radiator.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02084.jpg


Okay, was curious to see what she looked like not just raw, but with a little polish job. This was a quick 3 minute polish job. Imagine how nice it'd be with a real polish job!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02085.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02087.jpg

Squid4life
08-31-11, 09:20 PM
The brass hose barb is different than the stocker. The stocker is inset, which would add a little more to the process and since there is so much room in front of the top of the rad, why not do it like this. The 90 degree hose barb is used (and included) so all you have to do is trim the hose right before the 90 degree bend. If you have something against cutting the hose, I think there is even enough room to put a straight hose barb and trim the straight side of the hose back about 1/2".
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02088.jpg


Showing where it would sit if using straight hose barb, and just trimming 1/2" off the end of the hose.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02089.jpg


Figure out where to cut it.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02090.jpg


Voila, there it is, all attached... Look at those sexy welds!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02091.jpg


Hard to tell, but about 1/4" clearance between the back of the fan motor and the thermostat housing. Could file the rib off the tstat housing, and even grind it if it were closer, but not necessary at all here.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02093.jpg


A good inch of clearance between the water pump pulley and the fan framework.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02095.jpg


This is the tightest area of the install. Still 1/8" clearance. If it were touching or tight, you could file/sand almost 1/4" off the attaching click together parts of this, then super glue it. There is about a foot of harness going off to the right to the main harness, where you could put another weather-pak connector to be able to disconnect. Again, this is ONLY IF YOU WERE MAKING CONTACT AND NEEDED A WAY TO MAKE ROOM. It is not necessary here!!!
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02096.jpg


Stock airbox hose fit with all kinds of room.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02101.jpg


With my big CAI, I needed to use a heat gun to warm up the plastic, then a round screwdriver handle to push in gently to create a little clearance. This is similar to denting a set of headers for clearance of bolts or spark plugs on other cars. Should not affect performance in any way, was barely dimpled in 1/8-1/4".
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02097.jpg


It was close, so I chose to dimple this one as well.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02098.jpg


Without dimpling, this is about how it fits. With slight dimpling, the right side of the pipe fit straight.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02099.jpg


Third and final tiny dimple. If needed, could also have ground the circumference of the plastic around the bolt head, then used an allen button head bolt. The stock bolts have 2 thick washers attached to them, so they are thick. The button head allen bolts and rounded, and short, so they don't get in the way. This is only a suggestion in case someone elses was close. Mine only needed a tiny bit of dimpling.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02100.jpg


Close up of the dimpled area.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02103.jpg


Close up of where I chose to dimple the 2nd spot.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02104.jpg

Squid4life
08-31-11, 09:20 PM
As described earlier, the wires laid back over that lip instead of on top of it, and now the rad doesn't sit on top of them.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02107.jpg


The bolt boss on the left bottom is unused. Could this be left off in production?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02108.jpg


Extra room for the wires now, and that bold boss (block on bottom) is unused. Can it be left off in production as well?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02109.jpg


Rubber isolators on the posts of the bottom of the rad, slipped into the rounded frame pucks or holes.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02110.jpg


Clearance from bottom view. Over an inch crank pulley to fan body frame. Not needed here at all, but if running a supercharger, you may be able to section these fan frame/shrouds (cut in half or ever remove altogether).
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02111.jpg


Doesn't interfere with the ABS box or lines. Did NOT need to tweak, bend, or move the hard lines at all.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02113.jpg


Another, with better view of the hard lines of the ABS.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02116.jpg





Installed. Couple hours work, dropped right in. All I had to do different was tweak the CAI tube. Many ways to compensate like trimming the end where it goes into the throttle body, heat and dimple like I did, file the fan brackets and use allen, button head bolts, etc.
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02121.jpg



Oh, and she looks too pretty to hide under the radiator top cover. I know in front of the rad is ugly, but I like the radiator being seen! Maybe trim/ fab up a rad top cover, but leave the rad unshrouded?
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02122.jpg


My quick, 3 min polish job... She's purty....
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02127.jpg


Yes, the stock top radiator cover fits like stock, but why hide the killer welds of the rad???
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Squid4life/ALRADCO%20CAD-V%20RAD/DSC02129.jpg

catch2otwo
08-31-11, 11:23 PM
Looks great. Any temp info yet? Ive heard of guys running the ron davis rad dropping their temps down to 175 from 200+. At my last track day I saw temps of 220ish on the oil.

And any other talk about a finalized price?

AAIIIC
08-31-11, 11:24 PM
Thanks for the very thorough write-up. It does appear that those 2 bungs you pointed out could be omitted in production.

In your previous thread you showed the ALRADCO radiator top and bottom tanks are ~2-3/8" thick. I have my stock '05 radiator out of the car right now, so I threw the tape measure on it this evening. On the stocker, for both the top and bottom tanks, the plastic portion is narrower than the widest part of the radiator. The widest portion is where the plastic tanks are attached to the aluminum core. On the top, that's 2" wide, while on the bottom, it's 2-1/4" wide.

The stock radiator has a single 1" core; this ALRADCO is dual 1" cores, right?

Squid4life
09-01-11, 01:04 AM
Looks great. Any temp info yet? Ive heard of guys running the ron davis rad dropping their temps down to 175 from 200+. At my last track day I saw temps of 220ish on the oil.

And any other talk about a finalized price?

I didn't get to drive it much, ran out of time. I did drive it to work and on the highway, which here is SoCal is on the gas, off the gas, on the gas, etc it ran nice and cool. It stayed right around, and even below thermostat opening temps. It stayed at 184 for quite some time. I didn't sit in traffic too much, so didn't really get to see how hot it'd get in that aspect. I imagine with the tstat so high, and the fans waiting to come on until 224-227, that it would work at it best potential with a lower stat (like a 160), and a tune/tuner to turn the fans on near that. Add an oil cooler in there to help balance this cooling affect, and I know I would feel a lot safer. You say oil temps in the 220s, that is commonplace for my car... even just cruising on the highway the oil gets damn hot. I am sure that affects the water temps too... this thing NEEDS an oil cooler. That is on the top of my list of mods.

Peter was pretty firm on trying to keep the price below $500 when I talked to him last. And, to help that, those two bolt bosses AAIIC addresses below may be able to be skipped and left off the fab process, helping at least a little bit. If Peter can keep the cost down, I know he will. He is one of those guys who is fortunate enough to know how to get things done like this, and not need to make a huge profit. The way he put it "built for racers, by a racer". ;)


Thanks for the very thorough write-up. It does appear that those 2 bungs you pointed out could be omitted in production.

In your previous thread you showed the ALRADCO radiator top and bottom tanks are ~2-3/8" thick. I have my stock '05 radiator out of the car right now, so I threw the tape measure on it this evening. On the stocker, for both the top and bottom tanks, the plastic portion is narrower than the widest part of the radiator. The widest portion is where the plastic tanks are attached to the aluminum core. On the top, that's 2" wide, while on the bottom, it's 2-1/4" wide.

The stock radiator has a single 1" core; this ALRADCO is dual 1" cores, right?

That is good news about the bungs. I was curious about that. I feel bad for the fab guys now... I wish I could have caught that and marked those two bungs as unneeded on my stock one I sent as the mock up. Your measurements are also interesting... I did not even realize the top and bottom were different thicknesses. Yes, dual 1" cores on this rad.

There are a lot of places for "adjustments" on this radiator. I know Peter wanted to keep it as close to "drop in" as possible, and he definitely succeeded. If the top clearance is more of an issue, say if guys are using a hard metal air inlet tube, maybe the top width could be lessened by 1/4" or more, but only on the engine side. Then maybe the three top bungs could be shorter by about 1/4", but to compensate you'd need to trim the lip that goes around the face of the fan shroud, where it meets with the radiator... That should free up some space too.

Remember guys, this is the prototype, so if everyone on earth is running a big cold air inlet pipe, and it is going to cause complications, WE have a say in fixing it now so it will be a non-issue in the future. But, there may be trimming needed on the stock fan. I think the plan was to offer one that is a drop in first. Then, figure out if the top needs to be "adjusted" for big air inlet pipes. Then, for those who want true cold air, and would consider going to hood pins instead of the hood latch, there may be a radiator model with a "U" channel in the top so you could run the air inlet straight out of the TB, over the radiator, over the core support, and behind the grille opening.

Please let me know if you see something I didn't see that should be address, any ideas how to make it better, etc. Also, If someone wants me to try a different cold air pipe, or has another popular model one sitting around they'd like me to test fit, let me know. I have a K&N on mine, but not sure which one is "the bad boy" that most everyone gets, or is the most intrusive on space up there. I'd like to cover all our bases so no one has any issues or surprises in the future.

AAIIIC
09-01-11, 09:41 AM
I imagine with the tstat so high, and the fans waiting to come on until 224-227
The stock tstat isn't "high", it's right where most cars are for best efficiency. And are you sure about those fan settings? I've never seen my coolant temp get that high, even running track events.


Add an oil cooler in there to help balance this cooling affect, and I know I would feel a lot safer. You say oil temps in the 220s, that is commonplace for my car... even just cruising on the highway the oil gets damn hot. I am sure that affects the water temps too... this thing NEEDS an oil cooler.
220s is absolutely perfect for oil temperature. If all you're doing is driving on the street, there's little to no need for an oil cooler. For track use, yes, I agree, an oil cooler is a very good idea.


And, to help that, those two bolt bosses AAIIC addresses below may be able to be skipped and left off the fab process, helping at least a little bit.
You and I both have '05s. I can't help but wonder if those 2 bosses were used for something on the '04s maybe? The '06-07 cars have a different part number for the radiator (although they're functionally the same fitment), so I don't think those bosses would have anything to do with the newer models. AFAIK this radiator is specific to the '04-05 CTS-V, so it's kind of weird that it's purpose-built for this car and yet has bits that aren't used. :hmm:

justintiime
09-01-11, 09:44 AM
sweet....I think I sprung a leak in my radiator last night. Whats the lead time?

crankedupforit
09-01-11, 03:26 PM
Nice write up. Well done. That is an attractive price as well.

mberisha
09-01-11, 04:15 PM
Just curious....have the stock radiators been an problem to most.....or an anomaly?

MIKAR
09-01-11, 05:32 PM
Okay so I blew off the passenger side trans line (we all know why) now I need to get the drivers side off ..... its on there beyond tight.

Question is .... how do I get it off so I can continue fixing my problem ???

crankedupforit
09-01-11, 06:12 PM
Okay so I blew off the passenger side trans line (we all know why) now I need to get the drivers side off ..... its on there beyond tight.

Question is .... how do I get it off so I can continue fixing my problem ???

You made a wrong turn onto the wrong thread. :o

rjoffe
09-01-11, 06:15 PM
Just curious....have the stock radiators been an problem to most.....or an anomaly?

Many stock rads were exchanged under warranty for leaks, so yes it's a problem.

MIKAR
09-01-11, 07:11 PM
You made a wrong turn onto the wrong thread. :o

DUH !!! sorry clicked wrong one ... sorry for the hijack !!!! :hide:

soflarick
09-01-11, 09:33 PM
The '06-07 cars have a different part number for the radiator (although they're functionally the same fitment), so I don't think those bosses would have anything to do with the newer models. AFAIK this radiator is specific to the '04-05 CTS-V, so it's kind of weird that it's purpose-built for this car and yet has bits that aren't used. :hmm:

Same fitment in the most part, but small things like those little bosses are used on the LS2 model?

Considering the 2 frequent OT'ers on the board posted here, I would like to see a performance review if/when this radiator is installed and tested on track.

JDB
09-01-11, 09:44 PM
Awesome write-up. Hopfully flow is good and keeps temps lower.

FWIW, I had my rad replaced under CPO warranty...Id have to look at records but I've only owned the car between 24k-36k....so, somewhere in there.

DougNuts
09-02-11, 02:32 PM
My '04 has unused brackets on the bottom of the radiator too. I am not sure if it's been replaced, but I didn't see it in the paperwork.

I am interested in picking one of these up when they are available to purchase, please keep me in the loop if possible.

AAIIIC
09-05-11, 09:23 PM
I imagine with the tstat so high, and the fans waiting to come on until 224-227...
OK, finally remembered to look in the FSM for the fan settings. The fans should come on in LOW at 202F, and shift to HIGH at 220F. If yours aren't coming on until the mid/upper 220s then something is wrong - maybe a bad sending unit? As I said, even running track events, I've never seen the coolant temps get up into the mid/upper 220s. Typically on track it'll get up to 205-210, and it drops back down to the low 190s almost immediately when I stop hammering it.

Anyway, all that aside ... What are your thoughts on when these might be available for purchase? I might as well upgrade now while the engine is out, but hopefully the engine won't be out for too much longer. :)

lunarx
09-06-11, 03:11 AM
You are in SD, we should compare to my Ron Davis. Seems like you had similar clearance issues. I cut-off those equivalent unused bungs, trimed the Fan Shroud in those tight areas, leaned the Radiator and Condenser forward slightly (by swapping upper and lower condenser brackets and slotting upper radiator brackets), moved the ABS Lines and Pump back a bit and shimed the radiator up a bit (for further ABS clearance). As for Intake Tube my 4" was a no-go but I found that a Volant Tube with an LPE CAI fit well. I don't recall the Ron Davis weighing 20lb, as it seemed comparably light, but I should weight it for comparison.

If you are going to put this in production I recommend looking into lowering the condenser relative to the radiator which allows the radiator mounting to be shifted forward gaining more engine side clearance.

Squid4life
09-06-11, 10:31 PM
The stock tstat isn't "high", it's right where most cars are for best efficiency. And are you sure about those fan settings? I've never seen my coolant temp get that high, even running track events.

220s is absolutely perfect for oil temperature. If all you're doing is driving on the street, there's little to no need for an oil cooler. For track use, yes, I agree, an oil cooler is a very good idea.

You and I both have '05s. I can't help but wonder if those 2 bosses were used for something on the '04s maybe? The '06-07 cars have a different part number for the radiator (although they're functionally the same fitment), so I don't think those bosses would have anything to do with the newer models. AFAIK this radiator is specific to the '04-05 CTS-V, so it's kind of weird that it's purpose-built for this car and yet has bits that aren't used. :hmm:

I am 90% sure that is when my fans came on, did it a handful of times thinking they were not coming on at all. Will recheck again when I get home. I also need to do the star washer trick on all the grounds too. I can tolerate 220 oil temps if that is what is best, but mine still hits 230 at times, and not beating on it. Maybe a check/replacement of the sender is in my future. I have no idea what those bosses are for, but Peter said they were not a big deal and don't add to the cost. He is already tooled for them so unless we run into an issue and HAVE to remove them, they are fine where they are.


sweet....I think I sprung a leak in my radiator last night. Whats the lead time?

Will have to get a more firm guesstimate on that. As long as I don't find any issues, which I seriously doubt I will, then it should go into production in larger numbers. I will ask Peter that question when I get a spare moment, and will let you all know.


Nice write up. Well done. That is an attractive price as well.

Thanks man, appreciate that. Price is firm at under $500, unless something crazy happens in the process and he has to increase it a little, but he does not forsee that at all. He really wants to keep it affordable.


Just curious....have the stock radiators been an problem to most.....or an anomaly?

Lots of guys have had to replace them. The basic idea of crimping aluminum onto plastic is an inexpensive way to do it, but sometimes works. I have 3 cars, all had plastic tanks with aluminum cores. They all leaked. Even a brand new replacement rad in my GN started to leak after about a year and a half. And this is in SoCal, where the temps are pretty consistent in the 80s. Not crazy hot to crazy cold.


Same fitment in the most part, but small things like those little bosses are used on the LS2 model?

Considering the 2 frequent OT'ers on the board posted here, I would like to see a performance review if/when this radiator is installed and tested on track.

I am looking into that also. I haven't tracked the car, but am looking into how to get into a little road course action here locally. Or, I can just find a spot and drive the piss out of it like I am on a road course, much to my wifes annoyance. :)


Awesome write-up. Hopfully flow is good and keeps temps lower.

FWIW, I had my rad replaced under CPO warranty...Id have to look at records but I've only owned the car between 24k-36k....so, somewhere in there.

Thanks man. I guess these rads going bad happens more than we know... Hopefully this will give someone a solid option to replace it once and be done with it. I have learned (usually the hard way) not to cheap out on parts for my cars. Cheap never lasts, and always costs me more in the long run having to do things multiple times.


My '04 has unused brackets on the bottom of the radiator too. I am not sure if it's been replaced, but I didn't see it in the paperwork.

I am interested in picking one of these up when they are available to purchase, please keep me in the loop if possible.

Will do. Should know something more firm in a few weeks, maybe sooner.


OK, finally remembered to look in the FSM for the fan settings. The fans should come on in LOW at 202F, and shift to HIGH at 220F. If yours aren't coming on until the mid/upper 220s then something is wrong - maybe a bad sending unit? As I said, even running track events, I've never seen the coolant temps get up into the mid/upper 220s. Typically on track it'll get up to 205-210, and it drops back down to the low 190s almost immediately when I stop hammering it.

Anyway, all that aside ... What are your thoughts on when these might be available for purchase? I might as well upgrade now while the engine is out, but hopefully the engine won't be out for too much longer. :)

Yeah, mine runs hotter than that in normal driving... I get to high 220s or even 230 normal driving with the stocker. Will have to look into that more...

I will talk to Peter and find out more soon on availability. Like I said, as long as I don't have any drama, it should be a go. Will let you know.



You are in SD, we should compare to my Ron Davis. Seems like you had similar clearance issues. I cut-off those equivalent unused bungs, trimed the Fan Shroud in those tight areas, leaned the Radiator and Condenser forward slightly (by swapping upper and lower condenser brackets and slotting upper radiator brackets), moved the ABS Lines and Pump back a bit and shimed the radiator up a bit (for further ABS clearance). As for Intake Tube my 4" was a no-go but I found that a Volant Tube with an LPE CAI fit well. I don't recall the Ron Davis weighing 20lb, as it seemed comparably light, but I should weight it for comparison.

If you are going to put this in production I recommend looking into lowering the condenser relative to the radiator which allows the radiator mounting to be shifted forward gaining more engine side clearance.

Yeah, I need to definitely stop by and take a peek at your setup. Sounds like you got it figured out nicely. Those are some great reccommendations, I will make sure to discuss them with the guy running this show. I had told Peter, and think I posted it on here, where adjustments could be made, but he really wanted to make a drop in radiator so the guys who can't don't want to do a lot of mods to get it in can just drop it in easily. I am really interested in your setup, will hit you up when I get back.

Squid4life
09-06-11, 10:35 PM
I don't recall the Ron Davis weighing 20lb, as it seemed comparably light, but I should weight it for comparison.

I would be curious to know the weight of the RD unit as well. Peter said he knew it was going to be heavy, as he built it to last forever. Here is what he told me via email:
"The radiator will last forver, I know we really overdid it with the design but I really wanted it to be as badass as the car is. Seeping problems and leaking radiators on a car like that? Come on!"

AAIIIC
09-06-11, 10:53 PM
I can tolerate 220 oil temps if that is what is best, but mine still hits 230 at times, and not beating on it.
There's a pretty broad range of oil temps that are just fine. Mine sits in the 240s just driving around normally. I don't believe that's correct, but that's what it indicates. And really, until you start getting up into the 300+ range, a quality oil is going to be just fine. What you don't want is for the oil to be too cold, which is why I said 220s is perfect. That's high enough to boil off any entrained water, which is you don't want hanging around in the oil.


Yeah, mine runs hotter than that in normal driving... I get to high 220s or even 230 normal driving with the stocker. Will have to look into that more...
Just to clarify, I'm talking coolant temps. Above you said your oil temps are in the 220s or even 230s - are you saying your coolant temps are that high, too? If so, something is definitely not right.

Squid4life
09-07-11, 12:02 PM
There's a pretty broad range of oil temps that are just fine. Mine sits in the 240s just driving around normally. I don't believe that's correct, but that's what it indicates. And really, until you start getting up into the 300+ range, a quality oil is going to be just fine. What you don't want is for the oil to be too cold, which is why I said 220s is perfect. That's high enough to boil off any entrained water, which is you don't want hanging around in the oil.


Just to clarify, I'm talking coolant temps. Above you said your oil temps are in the 220s or even 230s - are you saying your coolant temps are that high, too? If so, something is definitely not right.

Gotcha on the oil temps. Other than my Grand National, this is my first "new gen" performance car, and first LS motor, so I am used to 160 water temps and low oil temps as well. Guess I will just have to get used to it.

Yes, oil temps are hitting 230's as well as coolant temps in that same range. Keep in mind, this is BEFORE THIS RADIATOR INSTALL! Coolant temps would hit 240 not beating on the car at all. When I get back to driving the car, it will probably get a new thermostat, just to be safe.

Squid4life
09-08-11, 11:54 AM
Considering the 2 frequent OT'ers on the board posted here, I would like to see a performance review if/when this radiator is installed and tested on track.

Working on getting this radiator into a car that sees more track action. Peter actually made two prototypes, so I may be able to get one into a car that'll get used and abused more than my street abuse.

As for availablility, these won't go into production until the prototype unit(s) are fully beat on with no adverse affects and no issues. I seriously doubt anything will come up, but Peter at ALRADCO is very meticulous and has very strong feelings about quality of the product he puts out. Once given the go ahead, he would need approximately 4-6 weeks to get them ready to ship. He is currently doing a large run (~100) radiators for the Grand Nationals (they are getting snatched up like mad!) and he is also doing a prototype rad for the first gen Camaro.

More to follow as I learn more so stay tuned.

lunarx
09-09-11, 04:04 AM
I would be curious to know the weight of the RD unit as well. Peter said he knew it was going to be heavy, as he built it to last forever. Here is what he told me via email:
"The radiator will last forver, I know we really overdid it with the design but I really wanted it to be as badass as the car is. Seeping problems and leaking radiators on a car like that? Come on!"

Ill get you that weight.
Its out of the car now, needing to go back in soon.

The adjustments I mentioned should make it more "Drop In" and easier to install.
Imagine the condenser mounting 2" lower and fitting under the front cross brace and the radiator moving forward 1".


Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Slithering_Joe
09-13-11, 11:05 AM
US a one of its finest eras.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYAEBIywGtg

Squid4life
09-16-11, 08:04 PM
I'm back from being underway guys, time to start beating on the car and putting some miles on it! :)

Naf
09-18-11, 07:27 AM
Whats wrong with the Ron Davis Rad?

I have two, one installed in my caddi and the other in my tahoe. Both are huge and as thick as possible.

The Tahoe one needed a little modification on the top couplers and the Caddi needed the bracket for the condensor shortened as well...

This is part of modifyin, you always have to change something somewhere to get it to fit...

Squid4life
09-18-11, 01:38 PM
Whats wrong with the Ron Davis Rad?

I have two, one installed in my caddi and the other in my tahoe. Both are huge and as thick as possible.

The Tahoe one needed a little modification on the top couplers and the Caddi needed the bracket for the condensor shortened as well...

This is part of modifyin, you always have to change something somewhere to get it to fit...


In my opinion there is nothing "wrong" with the Ron Davis, it is a great piece. While I agree "you get what you pay for" most of the time, if there is an equally well-built option out there for hundreds less, then that is usually the choice for me. This is just a venture (adventure?) to try to introduce another quality option out there for car guys and not charge an arm and a leg.

As for fab, that is usually the fun part for me, and I have no issue with it whatsoever. But, the man behind this radiator production wanted to keep this one (at least the first model) completely drop in. There are lots of guys who either don't have the tools/abilities to do mods, or are nervous about messing something up, or have reached a point in their lives where they choose their time is worth more than $$, so they have someone do their mods.

Either way, this is made to be another, lower cost option we have for our cars. Either rad would be a win in my opinion, but one that keeps a few hundred $'s in my pocket while meeting all my needs would be my obvious choice. :thumbsup:

lunarx
09-29-11, 02:56 AM
I would be curious to know the weight of the RD unit as well. Peter said he knew it was going to be heavy, as he built it to last forever. Here is what he told me via email:
"The radiator will last forver, I know we really overdid it with the design but I really wanted it to be as badass as the car is. Seeping problems and leaking radiators on a car like that? Come on!"

Finally got a scale to weigh the Ron Davis, it's 16.5 lb.
So thats a little lighter than the 20.5 lb ALRADCO.
Effectively, they are both equal, relative to the rest of the car.

That ALRADCO is an awesome deal.
I 100% agree that making it as drop in as possible is the best way to go.
I'm very curious if any changes get made from this first one as I would buy it just to get something that fit's/installs easier.

D.K
09-29-11, 02:42 PM
Any updates on when this rad will be available to the public? My stocker is leaking, and I'd rather not spend money on another leak prone replacement.

alradco
10-03-11, 01:50 AM
Hello everyone. My name is Peter Cegielski, aka Alradco.
Big thanks to James for being an integral part of this project. The guy has a passion for cars and unreal attention to detail. I think he may be away at sea again.
I've always had a love for Cadillacs and the CTSV especially.

I've sent in a request to be a supporting vendor here.

The radiator is going into production and should be available early December, maybe a little earlier. I will also have special discount pricing for those that want to pre-order and get in on the first production run. Keep any feedback and ideas coming, we're always looking to improve. Feel free to give me a call or send me an email with any questions. Thank you.

Peter

JimmyH
10-03-11, 07:20 PM
thanks for joining up and becoming a vendor. We appreciate it. And welcome to the forums!

alradco
10-04-11, 11:50 AM
Thank you for the welcome, Jimmy.

Peter

Hockeyref
10-04-11, 01:07 PM
My 2006 CTS-V is at the GM dealer right now - had my stock rad replaced 3 months ago and it is leaking already - I am NOT happy. They are pressure-testing the cylinders to make sure that the head gasket is not causing the problem and in my phone discussion earlier this morning I am anticipating issues with a warranty replacement. I would be VERY INTERESTED in purchasing one of your radiators.

Squid4life
10-04-11, 03:42 PM
I think he may be away at sea again.

Hey Peter! Sorry I missed some posts here guys, but Peter is right. I have been back and forth underway a lot lately. I am back for good (as far as I know anyhow!) and the car and rad are doing great. The wife drove the V a lot in my absence, and never had any issues. (and she is not easy on stuff. ;) ) I am driving the V daily and it is still hot here in CA (well, high 70's to low 90's mostly) so it is still being put to the test. The radiator is a SOLID piece, and running the car hard does not affect the coolant temps at all it seems. I haven't had it on the track, or run hard for an extended period of time over about 10 minutes of playful hard driving on my little "test area" but it is working flawlessly.

Anyhow, thanks again Peter for an awesome product and for supporting the auto passion!

JimmyH
10-04-11, 06:52 PM
Thank you for the welcome, Jimmy.

Peter

you are welcome for the thank you :bouncy:

alradco
10-04-11, 09:58 PM
My 2006 CTS-V is at the GM dealer right now - had my stock rad replaced 3 months ago and it is leaking already - I am NOT happy. They are pressure-testing the cylinders to make sure that the head gasket is not causing the problem and in my phone discussion earlier this morning I am anticipating issues with a warranty replacement. I would be VERY INTERESTED in purchasing one of your radiators.

I'd be upset too. Warranties are great but it's a hassle and a waste of time, especially for little things like this.
Give me a call this week. You can preorder at $449 + shipping. They'll be going out in December.

You can also order online Click Here to Order (http://alradco.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=33&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1)

Peter Cegielski
Alradco
408 320 6842

alradco
10-04-11, 10:15 PM
Also, since I'm a little new to this site. Here are some posts from turbobuick about our radiators. I know I like to be comfortable with where I spend my money.

Peter


I think you would be happy with the ALRADCO one. I am.


I also have one from Alradco. Great piece . Keeps my stage motor with a V1 front mount cool all day. Peter is also a great guy to deal with.


Alradco support american made stuff let's boost up our economy!!!!!!!!! Every little bit counts


Also a supporting vendor.


I'm glad we can actually purchase a Made in the USA radiator! Fantastic!!
Conrad


I installed my new Alradco radiator a few months ago and I wanted to see what kind of tempurature drop it would make. Today was a hot 90 degrees, and with the old radiator I would typically see temps in the high 180's to low 200's. With the new radiator, today the temps were in the 160's to 170's. I did a few pulls on the street and the highest I saw was 186, and it went back down quickly.

I'd say that the engine temps dropped by roughly 20 degrees on average. The radiator works (and looks) awesome. I run a front mount intercooler and the stock fan, so those of you with dual fans and/or SLIC would see even lower temperatures.


Whenever I open my hood, my eyes gravitate towards the radiator. It looks so nice!


The F body rad is probably the lightest one. Its like lifting a feather compared to the Alradco Radiator. The stock one is still the heaviest but the Alradco is much thicker than the stock so It does have a little weight to it. I haven't seen a degree over 169 since I put this in at idle. With a stock fan on it.

Squid4life
10-11-11, 02:18 PM
Well, I finally got some seat time in the V and I am very happy! I decided to swap my Tstat out for a 160 in preparation for a tune, and I was surprised to see I was able to swap the tstat with the radiator and all still in the car. I was scared I was going to have to remove it all to get clearance. Cadillac didn’t leave us too much room to work with!

Anyhow, with the 160 stat and the ALRADCO radiator in, the car runs nice and cool. In our high 70’s/ low 80’s temps we have had lately, the car stays right at 174-176 while cruising. I did several back to back 0-120 mph runs to see if it heats up at all while pushing it hard, and she didn’t even raise a degree. It actually dropped a few degrees.

Thanks Peter for another killer radiator!!!

It looks like everything is a go on this radiator according to Peter, so if you want one, hit him up and preorder. If these are anything like the Grand National radiators, they flew off the shelves in a heartbeat! Like Peter said above “I will also have special discount pricing for those that want to pre-order and get in on the first production run.” $449 + shipping; can’t beat that!

alradco
10-18-11, 02:21 PM
Thanks for the update James. Gald to hear the results.

Pre-order sale will be ending this month, Oct 31st.

Peter

AAIIIC
10-18-11, 04:50 PM
I picked up the 2nd "prototype" radiator from Alradco and received it early last week. Really nothing to report yet, as it's just sitting in my living room :p, and my dead car won't be back on the road for a few weeks. However, I can agree with Squid4life's comments about the quality of the fabrication - looks (and feels) like a very well-built piece!

lollygagger8
10-19-11, 10:39 AM
When my stocker takes a doo doo, I'll definitely be looking you guys up!

alradco
10-20-11, 01:23 AM
I picked up the 2nd "prototype" radiator from Alradco and received it early last week. Really nothing to report yet, as it's just sitting in my living room :p, and my dead car won't be back on the road for a few weeks. However, I can agree with Squid4life's comments about the quality of the fabrication - looks (and feels) like a very well-built piece!

Thanks Pat. I'm confident you'll be pleased. Really looking forward to reports of you beating on the car. :D

Peter



When my stocker takes a doo doo, I'll definitely be looking you guys up!

We'll be ready and waiting. :)

alradco
10-27-11, 12:59 AM
Pre sale ends Monday. :)

Squid4life
11-06-11, 12:35 PM
Hey guys, just a quick update. This thing is still cooling like a beast. I have been driving the piss out of the car, and have put lots of miles on it. Been going over to Coronado island too, which means sitting in traffic in the hot afternoons for about 45 minutes. She runs nice and cool, much better than the original rad.

Thanks again, Peter! You did a great job with this rad!

Beta
11-08-11, 11:31 AM
Are we still looking at mid december for release? I'm stuck filling this thing up all the time right now and I don't want to have a 4th one put in from the dealer...

alradco
11-09-11, 06:02 PM
Are we still looking at mid december for release? I'm stuck filling this thing up all the time right now and I don't want to have a 4th one put in from the dealer...

Actually hoping to start shipping at the end of this month. :)

alradco
11-09-11, 06:04 PM
Hey guys, just a quick update. This thing is still cooling like a beast. I have been driving the piss out of the car, and have put lots of miles on it. Been going over to Coronado island too, which means sitting in traffic in the hot afternoons for about 45 minutes. She runs nice and cool, much better than the original rad.

Thanks again, Peter! You did a great job with this rad!

Here I thought you were out to sea again but instead you're out there enjoying your car. :)
Glad that you're happy and satisfied. I know running hot was driving you crazy.
Thank you!

Beta
11-09-11, 07:47 PM
Actually hoping to start shipping at the end of this month. :)

I wish I could have held out longer but the leak has really gotten worse, at least I didn't pay $450 for OEM at the dealership, couldn't pass up the deal. When I need a 5th radiator I'll know where to go at least.

alradco
11-10-11, 12:33 AM
5th oem radiator..that's just ridiculous. Not really surprising though nowadays.

Squid4life
11-13-11, 02:29 AM
Actually hoping to start shipping at the end of this month. :)

That is awesome news Peter! I am glad to be back on solid ground for a while enjoying the family, the V, and even the GN. ;)

alradco
11-18-11, 02:07 AM
Hope you're home for the holidays.

Radiators should start shipping after Thanksgiving.

branland
11-18-11, 02:19 AM
Put a wheel off at Streets of Willow and popped the plastic top off mine. It seemed to re-seal enough to get her home.

ctsvoom
11-25-11, 10:14 PM
Are they shipping yet? As I was doing an oil change today only to find out that I had a leak. I'm not spending the money to replace the leaky one with the same thing only to have the same thing happen again. I'm trying to have one by Dec 2nd though to replace it while im off work.

Squid4life
11-30-11, 12:09 AM
Are they shipping yet? As I was doing an oil change today only to find out that I had a leak. I'm not spending the money to replace the leaky one with the same thing only to have the same thing happen again. I'm trying to have one by Dec 2nd though to replace it while im off work.

I will let Peter reply as to whether they are ready to ship or not, but I did get a text from him saying that he had some done. I will shoot him a message to get on here and get in contact with you. I know there were some guys who were interested in preorders, but not sure how many did preorder, and how many Peter made.


On another note, three months and counting on the radiator from ALRADCO in my car! Still going strong, and not one single issue. My work schedule changed up a bit the past month or so, which means driving to a different location, being stuck in traffic for up to an hour. Here in San Diego, we have still been having 84 degree days too. Not a problem!

alradco
11-30-11, 12:35 AM
Thanks for the heads up, James. Also very happy to hear it's working well for you

Yes we have some that just got completed, they're starting to ship this week. :)

ctsvoom, give me a call tomorrow (Wednesday). We can get one shipped out for you tomorrow. 408 320 6842

Anyone else that needs one feel free to give me a call or you can order online at www.alradco.com
Thank you.

Peter

alradco
11-30-11, 12:36 AM
Oops, double post.

Beta
12-01-11, 12:53 PM
5th oem radiator..that's just ridiculous. Not really surprising though nowadays.


Just as bad, after replacing the radiator the upper hose went. Dealer needs 5 days and $130 to get it. Amazon.com.... $28 in stock. Absolutely ridiculous price for a piece of hose.

ctsvoom
12-01-11, 08:15 PM
Peter I ended up calling on Monday or Tuesday I think. Hope it went out to Texas this week. Thanks.

alradco
12-02-11, 12:41 AM
Peter I ended up calling on Monday or Tuesday I think. Hope it went out to Texas this week. Thanks.

It shipped, thank you. :)

trukk
03-06-12, 12:10 PM
Has anyone run this on the track yet?

Any psotive/negative issues?

-Chris

Squid4life
03-06-12, 12:42 PM
Bump for an update. A few thousand miles down and not one issue. This thing is a beast Peter!

alradco
03-11-12, 03:46 PM
Has anyone run this on the track yet?

Any psotive/negative issues?

-Chris

Hi Chris,
A few people mentioned that they track their car when they placed their orders maybe they'll post up. Give me a call if you'd like to discuss or have some questions. 408 320 6842

Peter

raguncajn
04-01-12, 11:29 PM
I installed my radiator today and this thing ROCKS :rockon:
Squid's write up was spot on, and the job was pretty easy. I will say that with the stock airbox and tube, it is tighter than his picture. The stock tube does rub on the bolt holding the fans on.
It is rubbing on that thick rib, so I will monitor it and see if it will be an issue or not.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WgDpRs05Y9U/T3kMMefGsMI/AAAAAAAAAEE/rzHElGXwadM/s534/2012-04-01%252021.06.21.jpg

Otherwise it is a great drop in replacement, and being in south Louisiana it will definitely get a good workout in the coming months.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C8NAo5-n0hs/T3kMM-J8EAI/AAAAAAAAAD0/bFHeQzxDE6g/s800/2012-04-01%252021.11.38.jpg

alradco
04-04-12, 01:19 AM
Thank you. Sure looks good if I say so myself. No more plastic radiator for you. :)
Is there room for the radiator to tilt forward slightly up top? We could make some brackets to replace the factory ones up top that hold down the radiator. If it can be tilted forward a bit, that would get you a bit more clearance.

Peter

FuzzyLogic
04-04-12, 01:51 AM
I'd be interested in one of these radiators, but the thing is, I can't see how it would fit with an aftermarket harmonic balancer and cold air intake. Clearance is already super-tight with the stock radiator and this thing is just monstrous.

alradco
04-04-12, 02:18 PM
I'd be interested in one of these radiators, but the thing is, I can't see how it would fit with an aftermarket harmonic balancer and cold air intake. Clearance is already super-tight with the stock radiator and this thing is just monstrous.

How much clearance is there between both the intake and balancer? Our CTSV radiator actually isn't much bigger than stock, but it sure is a tight area to work in.

Peter