: Correct break in period



Ctsv wagon
08-30-11, 09:23 PM
Does anybody know the mileage my V should have before I can really start putting my foot into the accelerator? 1600 on it now

David Nicholas
08-30-11, 09:39 PM
GM says keep it under 4000rpm for the first 1500miles, then you're good to go....

elphil
08-30-11, 10:06 PM
Put your foot on it.

Razorecko
08-30-11, 11:36 PM
I've always run my cars hard from day one. I will not run the car wot from a stop though until it went through the break-in period. Wot from rolls I'll do from mile 1. If its a stickshift car I'll wot it until near red line and let the revs drop on their own. I wont wot shift untill the clutch has gone through its break-in period. Its worked great for me and my history of cars. Its the ones i've babied and listened to the owners manual that were plagued with the most issues and were always "factory weak" compared to others of the same make and model

undertaker
08-30-11, 11:36 PM
GM says keep it under 4000rpm for the first 1500miles, then you're good to go....

whoops.......well that didn't go according to plan for me....

dhpro
08-31-11, 08:25 AM
I just did the GM 1500 mile thingy...mileage improved tremendously once I passed 1k and 2k...I've tried all the various recommendations, but for OEM Ive always babied them for at least 500 miles. New built motors are even more controversal, and Ive tried all the different ways, but IMO taking it easy early is ALWAYS the best route no matter what they say about the new tolerences and materials...beark-in and heat build up are still best done slowly if you want longevity...if u lease or race then it really doesnt matter!

M5eater
08-31-11, 08:44 AM
Without going into detail that typical GM V8's don't really show normalized UOA's until around 10-15K on 4-5K OCIs, or how synthetic factory fill is probally the reason for this. How GM doesn't specify an early OCI but says you should stay easy the first 1500 and how you could be running up to 10K with tons of wear materials. How it's not really so much that you can never, ever go WOT during break-in and more the case that you shouldn't go do it often at say, a road-course or drag strip, I would say you're good to go OP. I was naughty a few times during breakin, did an OCI @ 1300 miles(which came back perfectly normal) and have enjoyed it since.

cdog533
08-31-11, 01:53 PM
When the tires touch property that does not belong to the dealership, you can pretty much drive the piss out of it. Just use common sense for 500 miles or so (i.e. don't cruise at 5800 RPMs in third for 40 miles).

kirks5oh
08-31-11, 04:57 PM
i was under the impression that modern engines do NOT require break in periods. if that were the case, i'd still be 'breaking' in my z-06, a year and a half after buying it. i lay into the car pretty much as soon as i leave the dealership.

Razorecko
08-31-11, 05:00 PM
i was under the impression that modern engines do NOT require break in periods. if that were the case, i'd still be 'breaking' in my z-06, a year and a half after buying it. i lay into the car pretty much as soon as i leave the dealership.

Yep. Motors are broken in. The drivetrain is not.

JFJr
08-31-11, 05:31 PM
Yep. Motors are broken in. The drivetrain is not.I second that. I wonder if failure to follow the procedure has caused some of the rear end problems reported on this forum.

Razorecko
08-31-11, 06:26 PM
I second that. I wonder if failure to follow the procedure has caused some of the rear end problems reported on this forum.

Its very possible. I do not take it easy on my break-in so like I said I like to do wot "bursts" which follow with several minutes of calm driving to cool down all the parts of the motor and drivetrain. This is why I like to replace all the fluids after a hundred miles or so because from bursts of speed you dont know how much break-in debris is floating around. I actually also got a light hum from my rear within the first hundred miles. Right after the fluid change it disappeared and never reared its head again in my 37k miles of driving. It's something that if you hear once you should make getting the fluid changed a priority to minimize any possible damage or excessive wear in the future

M5eater
09-01-11, 07:22 AM
I second that. I wonder if failure to follow the procedure has caused some of the rear end problems reported on this forum.

There's not a lot of wearing going on in the rear end. There is however, a lot of moving parts in the 6060 and 6L90E, the TCM in the 6L90E acutally adjusts to the specific transmission when it's new.

JFJr
09-01-11, 09:02 AM
There's not a lot of wearing going on in the rear end. There is however, a lot of moving parts in the 6060 and 6L90E, the TCM in the 6L90E acutally adjusts to the specific transmission when it's new.Great point on the transmissions! Also guys, take it easy on the brakes, too. See how smooth you can be with the drivetrain and brakes for a few hundred miles and you will reap the benefits later on. There's nothing wrong with running the engine rpm up and down in the lower gears as long as you don't stay in a higher rpm range for more than a moment (another advantage of the manual transmission in an urban environment). :lildevil:

Mr. P.
09-02-11, 02:59 PM
I've always run my cars hard from day one. I will not run the car wot from a stop though until it went through the break-in period. Wot from rolls I'll do from mile 1. If its a stickshift car I'll wot it until near red line and let the revs drop on their own. I wont wot shift untill the clutch has gone through its break-in period. Its worked great for me and my history of cars. Its the ones i've babied and listened to the owners manual that were plagued with the most issues and were always "factory weak" compared to others of the same make and model
Exactly what I do as well. I've also noticed with Gen-III & Gen-IV motors that the vehicles babied from day #1 are constantly 15-hp down on power compared to those where the owner drove 'em like the stole them right off the lot. It's more beneficial that in the first 500-miles the car does not see constant RPM - the most successful method that I've used when I lived in mountainous terrain was to drive to the top of the summit and back working through the gears (we would do this to break-in our circle track motors) our cylinder leakdown after 2-hours was always under 1%. Now that I live in Texas (??? what mountains?!) hard city driving including some responsible WOT bursts are good. They key point is to avoid driving at any specific RPM for too long, and keep the WOT bursts under 4000-RPM until the first oil change (as the manual suggests). But during engine break-in the motor has GOT to see some cylinder pressure, because that is what loads the rings and encourages that final ring seating/seal, so don't be afraid to throw your toe into the throttle to load the rings against the ring lands & cylinder walls. Whether you use city or mountain driving, make absolutely sure you replace the rear diff oil at 500-miles; I personally also replace the engine oil & manual trans fluid at that time too just in case there is trash/dust in the motor from original assembly. After that first engine oil change, if the trans, clutch, brakes, and rear-end look like they are in perfect condition then go ahead and take WOT to redline. My 2-cents.

Mr. P.

RippyPartsDept
09-02-11, 04:19 PM
RE: brakes
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures (http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedincontents.shtml)

M5eater
09-03-11, 09:30 AM
Exactly what I do as well. I've also noticed with Gen-III & Gen-IV motors that the vehicles babied from day #1 are constantly 15-hp down on power compared to those where the owner drove 'em like the stole them right off the lot. It's more beneficial that in the first 500-miles the car does not see constant RPM - the most successful method that I've used when I lived in mountainous terrain was to drive to the top of the summit and back working through the gears (we would do this to break-in our circle track motors) our cylinder leakdown after 2-hours was always under 1%. Now that I live in Texas (??? what mountains?!) hard city driving including some responsible WOT bursts are good. They key point is to avoid driving at any specific RPM for too long, and keep the WOT bursts under 4000-RPM until the first oil change (as the manual suggests). But during engine break-in the motor has GOT to see some cylinder pressure, because that is what loads the rings and encourages that final ring seating/seal, so don't be afraid to throw your toe into the throttle to load the rings against the ring lands & cylinder walls. Whether you use city or mountain driving, make absolutely sure you replace the rear diff oil at 500-miles; I personally also replace the engine oil & manual trans fluid at that time too just in case there is trash/dust in the motor from original assembly. After that first engine oil change, if the trans, clutch, brakes, and rear-end look like they are in perfect condition then go ahead and take WOT to redline. My 2-cents.

Mr. P.

piston rings seal better in high-rpm break-in situations, and if we were on conventional from the factory I'm sure it wouldn't matter as much, since we get M1 however, it really takes a lot longer for the rings to seal right on normal procedures. The problem is, that's the *only* part that wears-in better with high heat/ high-rpms..

RippyPartsDept
09-03-11, 09:50 AM
i believe that the factory fill is now Dexos (2011+)
... check your owners manual

Ctsv wagon
09-03-11, 02:21 PM
Sounds like I should have been putting the hammer down. I knew that you shouldn't keep the rpm's the same. Most of my mileage has been city so haven't had a problem there. Thanks for all the info.

Kluch
09-03-11, 04:08 PM
Hammer down from day 1 here. No issues and alot of fun.

John V
07-28-12, 12:03 PM
David , your right the book on my 2012 CTS - V says that. But after 600 miles I couldn"t wait, and took it slowly up to 100 mph. Then about 100 miles later I took it to 140,155 and then 166mph at 5400 rpms. Then the big test, on a isolated highway out in the country I took it to 150, 168, and slow down to 70 mph again and firmly pushed it to the floor at 195 mph. I slowed down by taking my foot off the gas, not using the break and let it go back down to 70 mph. ( The highway is over 8 miles long and strait with no side roads) Then I drove the speed limits 1 hr. back home and had no trouble. Chked all oil temp & water,aircon......ect...ran smooth just like the first day I bought it.

I love my CTS-V. Maybe I was lucky are Cadillac makes an outstanding car. By the way if you were wondering it was the sedan cts-v I own, not the coupe. Just happened to be the one on the show room floor. over 5000 miles and purrs like a tiger. Everything turned out for me I think because I started on a long isolated highway and didn"t use the breaks at high speeds plus work up to higher speeds like 100 to 150mph. Then slowly floor it at 150 in 5th gear it changes to 6 th after 155 mph.....then it rockets to 190 mph! (In automatic mode and aircon off, also stabiltrac buttons off.)

smackdownCTSV
07-28-12, 12:22 PM
^ Did you break it?

FLTRI
07-28-12, 12:59 PM
David , your right the book on my 2012 CTS - V says that. But after 600 miles I couldn"t wait, and took it slowly up to 100 mph. Then about 100 miles later I took it to 140,155 and then 166mph at 5400 rpms. Then the big test, on a isolated highway out in the country I took it to 150, 168, and slow down to 70 mph again and firmly pushed it to the floor at 195 mph. I slowed down by taking my foot off the gas, not using the break and let it go back down to 70 mph. ( The highway is over 8 miles long and strait with no side roads) Then I drove the speed limits 1 hr. back home and had no trouble. Chked all oil temp & water,aircon......ect...ran smooth just like the first day I bought it.

I love my CTS-V. Maybe I was lucky are Cadillac makes an outstanding car. By the way if you were wondering it was the sedan cts-v I own, not the coupe. Just happened to be the one on the show room floor. over 5000 miles and purrs like a tiger. Everything turned out for me I think because I started on a long isolated highway and didn"t use the breaks at high speeds plus work up to higher speeds like 100 to 150mph. Then slowly floor it at 150 in 5th gear it changes to 6 th after 155 mph.....then it rockets to 190 mph! (In automatic mode and aircon off, also stabiltrac buttons off.)

If I'm reading this right, you're saying got an automatic transmission car up to 195???

Trapspeed
07-28-12, 05:45 PM
If I'm reading this right, you're saying got an automatic transmission car up to 195???

Yeah. One post on the ticker and a bullshit one at that.