: Wheel click is back - this time after only 1900 miles...



js615
08-18-11, 02:40 PM
Last time at the shop they did the std TSB of wheel torque and anti sieze...no joy after just over 1900 miles of driving. I thought I saw a post a while back about guys putting old school paper gasket material between the hub and wheel - from what I recall, short term results were good...how is that working out for you in the long term?

cdog533
08-18-11, 03:46 PM
Shop probably did it wrong, didn't clean it good, used old torque spec...

Try it yourself.

Clean both surfaces, add a little anti-seize, and tighten the hell out of it.

RizeUp
08-18-11, 03:58 PM
I too have a severe loud clicking noise coming from my right wheel, it happens a lot now. Even with the car turned off sitting in the garage. Is this the same issue, and if so are ya'll talking about the lug nuts needing to be tightened?

taken
08-18-11, 06:33 PM
I had it too. It was not the more common wheel click. It was actually a bad right rear axle shaft binding at one of the joints. Dealer replaced the shaft and problem solved.

David Nicholas
08-18-11, 06:56 PM
If you're hearing it with the car not moving, it's not the normal "wheel click". I agree w/ cdog - the mechanics are using a wire brush to clean the surfaces - it's not good enough.
My cure - polish both mating surfaces down with aluminum polish - (they will polish to a mirror-smooth, almost chrome-like surface), to get them truly clean. I then applied silicone grease, then torqued to original factory spec. Both of my fronts were clicking incessantly before, after the cure, not a sound - almost a year now.

I'm sure any spacer, (paper, plastic, etc.) that you put in there to prevent metal-to-metal contact will also work.

newcadman
08-18-11, 07:03 PM
I too have a severe loud clicking noise coming from my right wheel, it happens a lot now. Even with the car turned off sitting in the garage.



FWIW, the dealer solved the wheel clicking " even with the car turned off sitting in the garage" by replacing both front rotors.

js615
08-23-11, 04:32 PM
FWIW, the dealer solved the wheel clicking " even with the car turned off sitting in the garage" by replacing both front rotors.

What was going on with the rotors?

cdog533
08-24-11, 01:39 PM
What was going on with the rotors?

Nothing, BUT by putting on new rotors and retorqueing the front wheels, the clicking is magically gone!!! for a little while lol....

These dealers are SO dumb.

MReiland
08-24-11, 02:36 PM
Nothing, BUT by putting on new rotors and retorqueing the front wheels, the clicking is magically gone!!! for a little while lol....

These dealers are SO dumb.
It is possible, the wheel clicking stems from the interaction of the rotor hat and the wheel mating surface. Different rotors could have a slightly different machining pattern that no longer interfaces in a pattern that causes the clicking?

baabootoo
08-25-11, 12:36 AM
I WISH I had the wheel clicking so I could diagnose it! Anyone want to switch???????? :)

Nutz
08-25-11, 09:44 AM
Start cutting the wheels against the lock slowly in forward and reverse and make them hop often, you'll be there in no time.:thumbsup:

dhpro
08-25-11, 01:33 PM
I dunno about this new torq spec guys...140ftlbs was already huge...anything more seems awefully overkill. I'd like to know the spec on those lugs.

cdog533
08-25-11, 02:03 PM
It is possible, the wheel clicking stems from the interaction of the rotor hat and the wheel mating surface. Different rotors could have a slightly different machining pattern that no longer interfaces in a pattern that causes the clicking?

I agree that a different design could stop the clicking permanently. But the design is the same. Possibly if the machining was markedly different it would cure the issue.

But look how GM has wasted money here:

- GM basically replaced everyone's front wheels with the new 'slotted face' wheels for NO reason, as per the TSB. The new wheels click just as much.

- Now, dealers are replacing rotors when all they need to do is clean the surfaces and retorque to the new spec. They are having issues reading the TSBs.

I love the car but the engineering support for it from GM has been a little spotty. My seat still goes forward when I press the remote, not back. They got the remotes and exit arrangement PERFECT for the 2005 Escalade, but my 2010 V doesn't work like that...

Warranty issues have been a little spotty as well. Some people have had months out of service for certain issues.

And the dealers, Madonn'! By and large, they aren't qualified to work on Cimmarons and '83 Deville Birratzes much less the best American sports sedan ever made. They scratch cars, rip dashes, bang up consoles, etc.