I have change my cross over gaskets on a 2000 Seville sls 4.6 north star.Do i have to buy each gasket separate or is there an gasket kit for this?Any help would be greatly appreciated.
for 2000+ FWD NorthStar applications these are the part numbers you will need
#12583048 x2 (upper gasket, rectangular shape)
#12583049 x2 (lower gasket, triangular shape)
probably easiest found at a dealer (but they are ACDelco parts so an ACDelco retailer can probably order them for you)
Oh boy, this is not a fun repair at all with the engine in the vehicle. There is a lot of stuff in the way and the bottom-rear bolts are very difficult to get a wrench around. Make sure you have a ratcheting 13 mm wrench for those.
don't too scare..
i just replace the crossover gasket also. It take about 2 day for Work and take a beer and rest..i lets the workers clean all of my engine and detail every steps so sure it won't fail again in next 5 years.
I used Fel Pro gasket which people said it is the best.
it is not too hard job. U just need Keep Patient. When u tired..take a beer then rest. http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...234602-how-long-does-take-replace-gasket.html
I think I'm looking at doing this same job on my 2000 SLS. Is there a thread anywhere on here that describes what all needs to come off for the job? If not, what did you all remove? Is there a torque value or tightening sequence
to adhere to? Anything else worth doing while you're in there? I work on Harleys for a living so I know the
importance of torque and sequence. Fortunately with those pigs, I don't have to deal with liquid cooling systems. I heard about a water pump cover update, maybe toss in a new thermostat while I'm in there. Once the leak is fixed I want to flush out the whole system and fill it up with 50/50 dexcool and distilled water. If you got any hints,
They'd be appreciated. I got the beer part covered and my foul vocabulary is extensive from working on Harleys.
It is a royal pain with the engine in the vehicle. Unplug connectors and unbolt grounds from the front of the engine if the wiring harness is in the way. Get the air intake tubing out of the way. Raise the front of the car so you don't have to bend over and down as much.
13mm ratchet wrench will make undoing the bolts on the rear lower of the housing easier. Those bolts must be in the housing before you go to place it on the engine.You'll see, the bolts cannot be removed or installed with the housing on the block because the trans is in the way. Maybe put a tiny amount of RTV on the edge of the gaskets to keep them in place while you reassemble.
Torque is 18 lb/ft. The rear lower bolts are a best guess unless you have a very short 13mm socket. You can also watch the bolts you CAN get a torque wrench on and gauge how far they turn past snug to 18 lb/ft. Clean the bolt and block threads as best you can.
I've got a Snap-On digital torque wrench with a variety of dog bones and gear wrenches so I should be able to get the torque right on, just needed a torque value and or sequence. If its that big of a pain, I wanna make sure it's done right the first time. Thanks!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Cadillac Owners Forum
4.8M posts
369.7K members
Since 2002
Cadillac Forums is the perfect place to go to talk about your favorite Caddys including the ATS, CTS, SRX, Escalade, LYRIQ, Vistiq, concept and future Cadillac models.