: Epiphany: Northstar Specialist?



brandondeleo
08-11-11, 05:39 AM
With the way I flap my gums, (in this sense, the way I am a total :postwhore:), pretty much all of you know of my issue with the half case seal. I did a lot of math today regarding selling it and purchasing a new vehicle and the costs/ value therein, and with the consideration of the condition and miles of my Cadillac and my love for the beast, I think it may be wise to find a specialist to fix it. The dealer quoted me in excess of $4k just for the half case seal. I was going to post this under the old thread, but I thought that this was a different topic in general, so here it goes.

I found a specialist here in Washington (traveling/ shipping my engine to the midwest/east coast is not fiscally rational for me. I did the math. Lol.) called Carrolls Custom Cadillacs, which does complete reconditionings (HG with studs, all upper gaskets, etc.) for just over $2k. I was reading through the reviews and found something that rang a bell... a Vincent M with a black Eldorado :eek:. Lol. Anyway, I emailed them for a detailed quote and more information, and I wanted to run this by you guys, my wealth of information. What is your opinion of the decision to repair it? Has anybody heard of/ had any experience with this specialist? Does anybody know of any other N* specialists in the Pacific Northwest?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me, and thanks for dealing with me. :worship:

Playdrv4me
08-11-11, 06:07 AM
It really comes down to what kit they are using in the course of the repair. If they are using anything other than some of the most proven methods, including Timesert (least preferable), Norm's or best of all, Jake's studs, then that automatically tells you a lot. The positive reviews you already found would be more than sufficient to convince me, but I'd have a talk with them and get them to explain the process and how many successful rebuilds they have done.

You are correct that of all options, repairing your N* is probably the one that makes the most sense, as it will be damn near permanent, and allows you to keep a car you already enjoy. I don't actually know how bad your case half is, but keep in mind that in most cases I don't consider it to be anywhere near the level of problem a bad headgasket is. In fact, the STS goes through about a quart every 1500 miles or so and with as cheap as oil is, I don't particularly even care. Hell, far as I'm concerned it's basically an ongoing oil change. I don't consider case halfs to be a problem unless there are obvious leaking oil stains on the ground, or wisps of smoke indicating the oil is falling on hot engine parts.

vincentm
08-11-11, 06:30 AM
I do web work for C.C.C and although my documented experience with them on here is up for interpretation by others, id recommend them, Tim is a standup guy, he'll take care of you.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 06:39 AM
There is a good 5" ovular spot on the driveway every morning. It is enough to fix it, in my book.

HOLY SHIT. I just got through reading the whole fiasco on the thread... I didn't know exactly what to think afterward, but I will take your word for it. The website stood out and the reviews were highly helpful. I have nowhere near the resources available to remove the engine myself, so it would be me dropping the whole car off and having the engine pulled/ repaired. I am a 19 year old college student, and the cost is quite the issue for me. It is leaking enough to make me worry and I want it fixed... Lol.

Anyway, what was the outcome of the previous debacle?

Playdrv4me
08-11-11, 06:42 AM
Yea, that would fall under needing repair in my book.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 06:46 AM
The mechanic at University Auto (phenomenal dealership- great service and close personal relationship) let me under the lift it was on... The trans was off and I saw the half case seal bright as day. The entire rear driver corner was sopping wet.

BTW- the oil pan gasket was in severe need of repair, so the money was half-not-wasted. Lol. Before the pan gasket, I was doing the equivalent of a 12" circle on the driveway every night.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 06:48 AM
I should probably mention that I am a member of this forum in my correspondence with him and I can say I know Vincent. Hahahahaha

vincentm
08-11-11, 06:48 AM
There is a good 5" ovular spot on the driveway every morning. It is enough to fix it, in my book.

HOLY SHIT. I just got through reading the whole fiasco on the thread... I didn't know exactly what to think afterward, but I will take your word for it. The website stood out and the reviews were highly helpful. I have nowhere near the resources available to remove the engine myself, so it would be me dropping the whole car off and having the engine pulled/ repaired. I am a 19 year old college student, and the cost is quite the issue for me. It is leaking enough to make me worry and I want it fixed... Lol.

Anyway, what was the outcome of the previous debacle?

I'm still waiting in a quote from Jake( since6/25) the guy is damn near impossible to get ahold of. Tim has offered a replacement and paint job, sent him an email last yesterday, ill see what he has to say, overall C.C.C is a great shop and Tim is a talented man.

vincentm
08-11-11, 06:54 AM
I should probably mention that I am a member of this forum in my correspondence with him and I can say I know Vincent. Hahahahaha

Read my thread under the watch your repair link. With the engine inverted and half case removed your crank and rod bearkngs will be inspected, don't be surprised to hear from Tim regarding a needed rebuild, if so then do it.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 06:56 AM
If I have the money... Lol. As of this moment, I don't have ANY money for the repair, but I trust I can work something out and have something ready by the time everything comes together. Hopefully a rebuild will not be necessary...

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 07:01 AM
I sorely need a paint job as well. Haha. again with the not affording!!

vincentm
08-11-11, 07:06 AM
If I have the money... Lol. As of this moment, I don't have ANY money for the repair, but I trust I can work something out and have something ready by the time everything comes together. Hopefully a rebuild will not be necessary...

He'll work with you on the cost. Save your baby man, can you see that beauty sitting in a junkyard? The thought of mine being in one is depressing enough to wake me up in a cold sweat

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 07:14 AM
Yeah, I'm sure we can work something out. I can't imagine doing that to my baby. 135k miles and neat as a pin. Aside from the gushing oil. Hahahahahaha. Hey, if it isn't leaking oil, it's not a Cadillac!

vincentm
08-11-11, 12:38 PM
Just spoke with our volunteer at our office here, She and her husband have a beautiful 99 Deville forest green with the light tan interior, absolute mint condition, less than 20k on the engine, she just told me she'l sell it to me,because they might be getting tired of it.

They're in their 60's so it's been babied, i doubt it's seen a WOT. they're the only owners.

77CDV
08-11-11, 01:23 PM
I told you before, stick with the Deville you know. :)

hueterm
08-11-11, 01:58 PM
$4000 for the seal? Doesn't Jake do the studs and the seal for less than $2000? I haven't read the whole thread, am I missing something?

OffThaHorseCEO
08-11-11, 02:08 PM
http://jalopnik.com/5829950/when-is-it-time-to-let-a-car-die

Playdrv4me
08-11-11, 09:05 PM
$4000 for the seal? Doesn't Jake do the studs and the seal for less than $2000? I haven't read the whole thread, am I missing something?

Dealer quoted him 4 for case half alone. The Caddy specialist he found does the seal and the heads for around 2000 I believe.

Destroyer
08-11-11, 09:43 PM
I think you are hearing answers from people that get way too attached to their cars. Logically, it isn't worth it. Especially if you are a 19 year old kid in college with no money. This just isn't the right car for you at this time.

drewsdeville
08-11-11, 09:53 PM
^^^that.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 11:10 PM
This is a difficult position. My options follow.
1)Sell the car by lying and screwing someone else over because it will never sell with the bad seal.
2)Drop the price to sell it so dramatically I might as well junk it and I will lose thousands of dollars.
3)Drop $3k to fix it and have a damn nice car that will last me a really long time, but I would still be into the car like $7k.
4)I'm a college student, but I have a very wealthy family. I have options, but I still don't want to be screwed over by getting nothing out of my investment.

Now, what do you suggest?

ben.gators
08-11-11, 11:15 PM
Number 3, but look for a more affordable shop.... You may find one for $2000.

Playdrv4me
08-11-11, 11:18 PM
Yea I mean, Destroyers advice made sense 6 steps ago BEFORE you bought the car. You're stuck with it now, so fix it and enjoy it. Just about the only instance where you don't have to worry about disclosing anything is trading it into a dealer, and any dealer that's worth his salt will offer you between 500 and 1500 for the car at most.

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 11:19 PM
CCC replied to my email. He said $2450 for the HG, $3k for the HG AND the half case seal. $4380 (or something like that) for a complete rebuild. I have NO way to get the engine out on my own, so I am paying for the removal, work, and install.

ben.gators
08-11-11, 11:27 PM
Is any of these shops near to you?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cadillac-Northstar-4-6L-Headgasket-Repair-Cheap-/200636717322?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb6e1590a

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=northstar+head+gasket+repair&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=northstar+head+gasket&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

brandondeleo
08-11-11, 11:38 PM
Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Michigan. Not even close.

drewsdeville
08-12-11, 12:01 AM
Yea I mean, Destroyers advice made sense 6 steps ago BEFORE you bought the car. You're stuck with it now, so fix it and enjoy it. Just about the only instance where you don't have to worry about disclosing anything is trading it into a dealer, and any dealer that's worth his salt will offer you between 500 and 1500 for the car at most.

Is he stuck with it? Sometimes you need to know when to let go. Destroyers advice made sense 6 steps ago, and it still does now.

So he spends thousands on repairing it. Fine. The thing everyone forgets (as usual) is that even with a "good" engine, this car is not getting younger. It's over a decade old (even needs a paint job), and mileage is piling up. Brandon's profile says 135k. Now it's time for the chassis to start showing it's age if it hasn't started already. This board is riddled with Cadillac chassis repair cost comments and complaints.

When you are dealing with older cars, it never ends. Don't make the mistake of assuming that if you get the engine refreshed, the car is going to motor on for another 10 years trouble free because of it. A new or rebuilt engine just means that it's now more likely that the rest of the car will fall apart around that engine. It's still going to need the inherent expensive maintenance and repair attention just like it always has.

Also consider insurance. A $3k repair doesn't increase it's value $3k. If you stick that money in it someone rearends you, say (for examples sake), the week you get it back, chances are you aren't going to see a nickel of that $3k you just spent. It'll instantaneously disappear (insurance company will probably give you $1500 for an older high mileage Caddy with bad paint).

None of this is a concern for someone more established who can take the hit. However, from what he's said in this thread so far, he can't afford either of the situations above, and they aren't out of the question.

ted tcb
08-12-11, 12:21 AM
You're likely better off to purchase a newer,lower mileage LeSabre for $3k.

Solid drivetrain, better fuel economy .... I'd cut my losses now, rather than doubling my initial
investment.
Like Drew said, there are still hundreds of other issues that can pop up with a high mileage, 14yr old car.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 12:27 AM
Aside from the bad seal, the suspension is solid, the body is in great shape, the only problem with the paint is a little fading on the rear bumper and your typical chips on the front end (I am a perfectionist on an extreme level). If I get rear ended, well that's just the least of my problems, isn't it? I am exploring the idea right now, that's all.

Take a second and put yourself in my shoes. I'm damned if I do, damned if I don't.

I'd be fine with a Buick if it wasn't a boring, even more geriatric, bland beigemobile.

orconn
08-12-11, 12:35 AM
This is a difficult position. My options follow.
1)Sell the car by lying and screwing someone else over because it will never sell with the bad seal.
2)Drop the price to sell it so dramatically I might as well junk it and I will lose thousands of dollars.
3)Drop $3k to fix it and have a damn nice car that will last me a really long time, but I would still be into the car like $7k.
4)I'm a college student, but I have a very wealthy family. I have options, but I still don't want to be screwed over by getting nothing out of my investment.

Now, what do you suggest?

Suck up your pride, ditch the Caddy, and put up with whatever you "very wealthy" parents will buy you!"

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 12:41 AM
You have a habit of being unnecessarily rude.

ryannel2003
08-12-11, 12:46 AM
I wouldn't invest that much money into the car at this moment. Spoken from somebody who has been there, done that the car definitely doesn't get any younger. These cars are expensive to maintain (just be happy you don't own the STS with the CVRSS suspension) and it doesn't get any better from here on out. There is still wonky electronics, a/c compressors, suspensions, etc. to deal with in the future. I'd let the car keep leaking until it got so bad it was consuming oil at a super high rate and then I'd weigh my options to see if it's worth it to keep the car or not.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 12:48 AM
I'd let the car keep leaking until it got so bad it was consuming oil at a super high rate and then I'd weigh my options to see if it's worth it to keep the car or not.At this point, it is leaking about a 5" spot of oil every night. It isn't horrible, but it stresses me out. At this moment, that is looking like what I will end up doing.

ryannel2003
08-12-11, 12:50 AM
Being a perfectionist with a car like a Seville/Deville/Eldorado is a painful, expensive thing. I learned the hard way about that and quickly realized that I can't afford to fix everything that is wrong with my car. What happened with you getting a FWB?

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 12:52 AM
There is a very limited amount of them in my region, and every one that I was interested has been sold.

mberisha
08-12-11, 03:52 AM
At this point, it is leaking about a 5" spot of oil every night. It isn't horrible, but it stresses me out. At this moment, that is looking like what I will end up doing.

Wow....what does your driveway look like with ALL that oil leaking everyday?

You've probably spent what the seal would have costed you in oil alone so far......

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 03:59 AM
I stopped parking on the driveway the first time it leaked. I park it over something every once in a while to keep track of the amount of leakage. I just figured it gives you a better image. Lol. I park off to the side now in an effort to save the driveway from trashiness. Hahaha... I probably have.

Playdrv4me
08-12-11, 06:54 AM
Is he stuck with it? Sometimes you need to know when to let go. Destroyers advice made sense 6 steps ago, and it still does now.

So he spends thousands on repairing it. Fine. The thing everyone forgets (as usual) is that even with a "good" engine, this car is not getting younger. It's over a decade old (even needs a paint job), and mileage is piling up. Brandon's profile says 135k. Now it's time for the chassis to start showing it's age if it hasn't started already. This board is riddled with Cadillac chassis repair cost comments and complaints.

When you are dealing with older cars, it never ends. Don't make the mistake of assuming that if you get the engine refreshed, the car is going to motor on for another 10 years trouble free because of it. A new or rebuilt engine just means that it's now more likely that the rest of the car will fall apart around that engine. It's still going to need the inherent expensive maintenance and repair attention just like it always has.

Also consider insurance. A $3k repair doesn't increase it's value $3k. If you stick that money in it someone rearends you, say (for examples sake), the week you get it back, chances are you aren't going to see a nickel of that $3k you just spent. It'll instantaneously disappear (insurance company will probably give you $1500 for an older high mileage Caddy with bad paint).

None of this is a concern for someone more established who can take the hit. However, from what he's said in this thread so far, he can't afford either of the situations above, and they aren't out of the question.

I don't know Brandon all that well, but I know him well enough to know for damn sure he isn't going to plunk down that 3k on something like a ZX2. So assuming he goes for a 3000.00 Buick or similar, he's likely to just end up right back at the beginning of a journey with an unknown car. The only other serious concern of a stranding level on that Cadillac would be a transmission issue. As he mentioned though, I don't see his parents leaving him high and dry in a genuine emergency, so at this point he may as well continue with the car he already knows. After all, those 3800 powered Buicks aren't all they're cracked up to be in your own words right?

Frankly, I have to agree with Ryan here. The best advice is really to just save your money, and split the difference between these two solutions. We've already established that you don't want to sell the car to someone else without disclosing the defect, and then you won't get almost anything for it. Drive it into the ground, and when it's done it's done. Then get something else. You may be surprised at just how long it ends up lasting.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 07:08 AM
I don't know Brandon all that well, but I know him well enough to know for damn sure he isn't going to plunk down that 3k on something like a ZX2. So assuming he goes for a 3000.00 Buick or similar, he's likely to just end up right back at the beginning of a journey with an unknown car. The only other serious concern of a stranding level on that Cadillac would be a transmission issue. As he mentioned though, I don't see his parents leaving him high and dry in a genuine emergency, so at this point he may as well continue with the car he already knows. After all, those 3800 powered Buicks aren't all they're cracked up to be in your own words right?

Frankly, I have to agree with Ryan here. The best advice is really to just save your money, and split the difference between these two solutions. We've already established that you don't want to sell the car to someone else without disclosing the defect, and then you won't get almost anything for it. Drive it into the ground, and when it's done it's done. Then get something else. You may be surprised at just how long it ends up lasting.Thank you for this. I do believe you have summed it up, too. :)
If I may mention as well, my transmission is solid. I can't tell the future, or course. I just had it serviced (I didn't go up to DEX-VI. They wanted too much...) and now it shifts smoother than anything I've ever ridden in, hands down. And though I am only 19, I have a lot of experience with many types of cars.
How long do you think it could last with the seal the way it is? I don't exactly drive it geriatrically...

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 07:13 AM
Speaking of 3800's.... Lol. My stepdad bought my mom a 2005 Pontiac G6 for her birthday last year. A month after getting it off of the lot (certified used) the transmission took a crap and needed to be rebuilt. :suspect: Last week she had to get a new starter, they think the injection system is going wonky, the alignment is off... Thank god for dealer warranties, at the least.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 07:17 AM
(BTW-I know the G6 has the 3500 not the 3800, it just reminded me of it. Lol)

Playdrv4me
08-12-11, 07:18 AM
Thank you for this. I do believe you have summed it up, too. :)
If I may mention as well, my transmission is solid. I can't tell the future, or course. I just had it serviced (I didn't go up to DEX-VI. They wanted too much...) and now it shifts smoother than anything I've ever ridden in, hands down. And though I am only 19, I have a lot of experience with many types of cars.
How long do you think it could last with the seal the way it is? I don't exactly drive it geriatrically...

Those case half leaks are somewhat of a mystery to me as far as their progression, if any. Unlike the progressively worsening and completely disabling HG issue, the oil leak may well continue no worse than its current rate for years. In that case it will end up being an issue not of how long the car can last, but how long your wallet will. With the way the car is right now, I don't see another 30-40,000 miles being unreasonable at all. And that's conservative.

ben.gators
08-12-11, 08:03 AM
Well, these posts about leaks reminds me a discussion I had with a mechanic a few month ago. My STS has the same infamous leaks, but it's not as bad as yours. It leaks like a few drops a night, and I am just living with it, not a big deal. I have been using fully synthetic engine oil for my relatively high-mileage car, thinking that it's good for the engine.

the last time I was in DIY center, the head mechanic said me that using high-mileage oil instead of synthetic oil may reduce the leak. I did a research and it seems that his claim makes sense. I know saying this can trig a long dissuasion and even a fight, but anyway, synthetic oil has specific chemicals to resolve the deposits in the engine. Basically, this deposit layer is not good for engine, but such a deposit layer around the seals is not that much bad either. It reduces the flow of leaking oil. I have read that someone used synthetic oil and the engine starts to leak... The hypothesis I said may explain such incidents...
On the other side, high-mileage oils have specific chemicals to soften the gaskets. The reason for our oil leak seems to be dried, cracked gasket and as a result gasket fails to insulate. So such gasket softeners may reduce the amount of leak.

Next time I will use high-mileage oil to see what happens....

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 08:30 AM
I do not know if they used high mileage specifically when they did the oil pan gasket, but I do know that I had them use conventional 10/30 rather than Mobil 1 synthetic, which I usually use. I have also heard this synthetic leak theory, and it makes perfect sense to me. Are there additives that can provide this gasket softening chemicals rather than the oil itself?

ben.gators
08-12-11, 08:36 AM
Well, in part stores there are shelves full of stop-oil-leak bottles...But I am really skeptical about these products.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 08:40 AM
Ditto... I need to put my nose to the grindstone and do a little Chemistry homework... Haven't done that since high school! I think I will turn it into a project. I will debunk oil stop leaks (gasket only) with scientific proof and maybe some examples. Maybe it will get stickied! Hahahaha...

drewsdeville
08-12-11, 08:46 AM
Drive it into the ground, and when it's done it's done. Then get something else. You may be surprised at just how long it ends up lasting.

this works as well.

Whatever you do, don't invest more through repairs than the car is even worth (you would be, easily). It really wouldn't be smart no matter what situation you were in, but, right now, it sounds like you can't afford the possible consequences (losses) from it.

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 08:49 AM
Yeah... I will do some more small things, but the big repair seems to be a little irrational. My driver's seat doesn't work for some reason...

vincentm
08-12-11, 09:53 AM
Fix your Deville at CCC

/thread

brandondeleo
08-12-11, 12:14 PM
I went out to my car after getting off work, and it seems that the leak has slowed.
1.5" spot after 8 hours. This is nice. Aside from everything, a slowing leak is a good thing. Lol

OffThaHorseCEO
08-12-11, 12:22 PM
Im going to agree that of all choices, letting it be is a wise one in your situation.

If you do limit yourself to buying another used car or fixing yours, i think fixing yours would be the better bet.

all the things drew said about your car being x years old and destined to fall apart anyway apply to a new to you Fleetwood too.

Destroyer
08-12-11, 12:22 PM
I went out to my car after getting off work, and it seems that the leak has slowed.
1.5" spot after 8 hours. This is nice. Aside from everything, a slowing leak is a good thing. LolYou may be almost out of oil. :)

Destroyer
08-12-11, 12:30 PM
I don't know Brandon all that well, but I know him well enough to know for damn sure he isn't going to plunk down that 3k on something like a ZX2. Got rid mine. Damn I hated that car!

ThumperPup
08-12-11, 12:41 PM
CCC replied to my email. He said $2450 for the HG, $3k for the HG AND the half case seal. $4380 (or something like that) for a complete rebuild. I have NO way to get the engine out on my own, so I am paying for the removal, work, and install.

to bad your not closer to cleveland i had my complete rebuild including parts this included studs new block and a few other things total price was 3878
block was 500 so if i did not need a new block would have been 3378 1000 cheaper

gdwriter
08-12-11, 01:02 PM
I've been using Valvoline MaxLife for high mileage engines for years. I believe it's available in regular dino, a synthetic blend or full synthetic.

Playdrv4me
08-12-11, 02:23 PM
My N* powered cars have always been perfectly happy with Dino oil, and if a high mileage version can help slow an existing leak I certainly don't see the harm in it IF your car definitely qualifies as high mileage (though I can almost guarantee you the difference between "high mileage" oils and regular oils, is no where near as severe as the difference between regular transmission fluid and "high mileage" transmission gunk etc.).

ryannel2003
08-12-11, 02:32 PM
Yeah... I will do some more small things, but the big repair seems to be a little irrational. My driver's seat doesn't work for some reason...

Last year mine stopped working as well. Best thing to do is mess around with the motors under the seat and unplug and plug back in all the connectors. Did that last August and my seat has been working fine since then.

The paint isn't something I would mess with unless it's really bad... Sterling Silver is extremely hard to match and even when it's close it's still off the original color from the factory. But yes I would keep the car running as is for awhile and when you have your money saved up you can decide whether you want to keep it or buy something else. My car as-is right now probably needs $2000 worth of work but it's all suspension related and honestly the car is worth about $4500 so I'm gonna keep it running like it is now until the suspension starts getting so bad it needs to be replaced... and then I'll probably replace it. Another way to look at this is if you sold the car for X amount of dollars what could you buy in cash for that? There are very few nice, low priced cars on the market and you would end up with some shitty car that would need a good amount of work to make it acceptable. Keep the Deville, save your money and then decide what you want to do.

Destroyer
08-12-11, 10:13 PM
You have a habit of being unnecessarily rude.He wasn't being rude. If all you want to hear is "fix and keep the car" why bother asking?:suspect:

ga_etc
08-13-11, 12:59 AM
Don't jump the gun on anything right now. Monitor your oil level closely and just drive it. Save up what you can and then try to talk your parents into helping you with the repair costs for Christmas or something.

Carroll Cadillac
08-17-11, 04:12 AM
Hi' I am Tim, owner of CCC, thank you for your comments. I heard alot of pricing questions in this thread, we have modified our pricing to the lowest cost possible, if you find someone who offers these prices at a lower cost' then question their abilities.
Northstar's is what we specialize in and we stand behind our work and proud of the countless Cadillac's we have saved from the salvage yard.
We are more then just a mechanic shop, we are "Cadillac clubs Northwest" and provide unparelled service to our clients.
Vincent M. is a very close friend of mine and is our website administrator and a very important member of our Club, so our dispute was our way to vent, but as you can see we are still the best of friends so don't take sides.
I want to make this very clear' we only use Jakes studs! Jake is a friend a business partner of CCC, together we only install the only "Permanent" repair his sure grip studs.
Also' we are the "only" private Northstar specialist in the entire Northwest! Although we are well aware of this and could charge next to dealer prices "we don't" we are about the Cadillac owner, and honest work for an honest buck.
I heard the comment about our success? I have always stood behind our repairs and rebuilds, our customers come to us as clients and leave friends for life' that should say something about what we do.
Occassionally something will fail and out of our hands, but when this happens we step up to the plate and do what we can to help our client get what he came for, this is how we have 100% customer satisfaction.
If anyone has any questions? I will be happy to answer any you may have.
Thanks, Tim