: 2007 Escalade Warped Rotors - Brake Performance Rotors



Aerocoupe
08-03-11, 06:00 PM
The SUV was bought used about a year ago and the brakes were fine but now the steering wheel will dance in your hands. I did not realize this until I drove it the other day and I have no idea how the GF tolerated this. I have been searching and reading post on this and basically what I am hearing is the brakes on this heavy of a vehicle are undersized if you brake heavy. She is an aggressive driver and so am I so I cannot say much to her in that aspect or she will point to the big brake kit on my Mustang and rightly so. What I have decided to do is get the front rotors turned by a buddy at a parts store and get the problem temporarily fixed so she is not frustrated and will some level of confidence driving it.

I decided to order new rotors all the way around as well as ceramic pads. After reading all the posts on the quality of the OEM rotors, slotted, drilled, dimpled, slotted and drilled, and slotted and dimpled I decided on the later. I ordered them yesterday from Brake Performance (I called about delivery time frame which is what lead to the temporary fix) and upgraded the pads to ceramic so shipped to my door was roughly $420. I also like that they offer the hat and non braking surfaces in either black or silver. The silver should look good with the factory wheels and the champagne color. Hopefully this will give her some confidence with the brakes and the lifetime warranty against warping was also pretty impressive. I checked around at local parts stores and using their premium rotors (Bosch brand) and a good pad like Performance Friction would have been close to $450 just for the parts and then there would have been tax. Hopefully I have made the right decision with the Brake Performance pieces.

The whole reason for the post was to say thank you for the site and also to the members who posted technical data and real world feedback on brake choices for these vehicles a big thanks! The threads on the installation also helped as I was pretty sure I could handle it but its always nice to know what you are getting into before hand. I am almost betting that the brake fluid is toast as well so that will get cycled with a Motive Pressure Bleeder. If you don't have one of these look it up as it makes bleeding brakes super easy especially those equipped with ABS.

Darren

Mha
08-04-11, 01:32 AM
Can you post pics when you get them on. Im looking to upgrape mine not because mine are bad but there rusty(dont looks good with my rims :) )

MrHolland
08-04-11, 05:59 AM
Id love to see pics and hear your opinions of the rotors and pads!!!!!

owyz1
08-05-11, 02:22 AM
Pics would be great!

IgotGAME
08-06-11, 02:37 PM
I would like to see pics of these as well and exact links to where you purchased them for that price if you don't mind.

Aerocoupe
08-06-11, 03:14 PM
I ordered them from here:

brakeperformancedotcom

Just fill in the info and it should take you to the right ones. I just checked and the front rotor set is now $205.59 a set and the rear rotor set is now $201. I also noticed that they are not offering the ceramic pads for $40 a set only the premium semi-metallic but I would call and see if they can work you a deal.

I got the temporary brake job done and they were a mess. The rears were the ones warped and it was translating through the vehicle. The front pads were shot as well but the whole deal including fresh brake fluid was about $90. It stops very smooth now but two other issues popped up. The front struts are shot and after rolling the tires around I think the front struts have been bad for some time as all of the tires are cupped. This just got really expensive...

I will post up some pictures after the 14th as the shipment will get here on Thursday and I will be out of town.

Darren

Aerocoupe
08-09-11, 08:57 PM
Well the parts got here today and I took some quick pictures of them before the install next week. I realized after I took the pictures that I got the pads mixed up but other than that the rotors look really good.

Front Rotors and Rear Pads:

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/FrontRotorsandRearPads01.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/FrontRotorsandRearPads02.jpg

Rear Rotors and Front Pads:

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/RearRotorsandFrontPads01.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/RearRotorsandFrontPads02.jpg

I also took a picture of the receipt just in case there was any doubt on the price:

http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/Receipt.jpg

Darren

MrHolland
08-29-11, 01:37 AM
Any update or pics on this set up??

darkknight1999
08-29-11, 09:22 PM
I might have to hit them up. I did a temp fix on the fronts (new pads and rotors) until I decided on what I wanted to do, as these are sure to wrap since they were cheap. I'll have to look into these guys. I was thinking I would do something along the same line. The only think I'll do differently is I might have a buddy of my cryo-treat mine before I put them on. Other than that

Aerocoupe
08-30-11, 11:53 AM
No, no updates at this time. We are in the middle of moving to the Houston area so it may be a while before this happens. I ended up having to install new front struts and tires all the way around as the Nittos were done and the front struts were leaking so I have been busy turning wrenches making sure she has a safe vehicle especially being in Houston. I am hoping to get to this in a couple of months as it is just not a big priority as the new pads up front and turning the factory rotors seem to be holding out really well up to this point.

Darren

Rhinelander
08-30-11, 06:53 PM
I had the same problem, it is actually called Brake Judder. I went with the same type rotors from EBC and Performance Friction pads. I went with those pads as opposed to Hawk HPS as the way I drive with those pads creates too much heat on the rotors and they get damaged

With the new set up, they are very smooth and have about the right amount of grip. My car has low boost so sometimes at low speed you have to apply pressure. This set up has had zero problems for over a year and I drive in the hottest weather in Texas non-stop. Wagner rotors rarely lasted more than 5 months. They do seem to brake better when a bit hotter but the brake response is very good and I am more than pleased with it.

I recommend those type rotors and no other for the full size cars and SUVs. Without doing testing I believe this set up is better than factory(which is not easy to achieve).

shourty
09-01-11, 02:40 AM
i recently took my 2007 cadillac escalade to get some work done and i asked them to check my brakes since i noticed that stopping was becoming harder for me to do... they told me when i picked up my truck that my rotors needed to be machined and my rear brakes replaced. they quoted me $700 to machine the rotors and then $500 to replace rear brakes. which i refused to do at the time because of the cost. im pretty sure they were trying to rip me off because i am a girl. anyways my question is how do you know if your rotors need to be machined? i asked my neighbor to look at them and he said they don't look like they need to be machined. but i should replace the brake pads. next question is what type of brake pads are they best for a heavy braker also i live in hawaii so not much uphill or downhill driving is done. there are some mountains but i dont travel them daily. also i need minimal brake dust because i have 26in chrome rims and brake dust is their worst enemy. thanks for your help. ive been researching all over the internet but cant really get a straight answer and half the stuff that i read i have no clue what the people are even talking about. but im learning slowly since i dont want repair shops to keep ripping me off just because i am a girl.

K9Caddy
09-01-11, 06:44 AM
Awfully strange to replace the rear brakes before the front; your front brakes do the majority of the work. That is an expensive, way over-priced estimate, I'd get a second opinion and try to find someone you can trust.

You should always "turn"/machine or replace the rotors when you change the pads. You might be able to get by not doing it, if they are fairly smooth, but why chance it? Btw, machining rotors run about $10 /rotor at your local part store. For $700 you should be able to buy 4 sets of brand new rotors.

Aerocoupe
09-01-11, 10:43 AM
K9Caddy,
I will disagree with you on turning rotors every time you replace the pads. The rotors are bedded with the pad material and if they are not showing abnormal wear signs or have a lip then I would not do it. I have run the 13" Brembo rotors on the front of my Mustang through two sets of Hawk HP+ pads and never turned them. Turning a rotor reduces the mass which is what controls the amount of heat they can dissipate. Factory rotors are already on the edge of being too thin so additional material removal that is not warranted is something I would think a person would not want to do. That is just my take on it but I have a bit of experience with road racing where the brakes are relied on more than anything.

Back to shourty's questions. IF your steering wheel is not shuddering when you brake then the chances are your rotors are not warped or do not have any high and low spots. If you fell you may be experiencing this then take them to the parts store and have them surface them. Please realize there is a minimum thickness that they cannot exceed. It is typically stamped on the rotor so find this before you go to the parts store so they do not give you a line of BS. When they turned the rotors on my GF's '07 it was two passes on the front and four on the rears. The rears were the ones that were causing most of the issue. I would suggest that you run a ceramic brake pad as they will provide very good braking with high mileage. They will squeak at first but that will go away after you bed the pads to the rotors a couple of times. Typical bedding procedure can be found here and you want to pay attention to the street oriented bedding procedure.:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Do you have to do this? In short no but you will not get the maximum braking potential out of your brakes if you do not. I do it every time I change pads or get new rotors including having to turn a set of rotors or both. If they have to turn one rotor from the front or back have them do both.

If you have any questions about how to do the brake job yourself so a search as it has been covered on here. Another option is having a local mechanic do the work for about half of what the dealer will charge. Either way you will still need to bed the brakes as they typically never do it.

One last thing, the vehicle may have already had a front brake job which is why the rear pads are showing more wear than the fronts as the rears typically are a two to one replacement. With that I mean the front pads will be changed twice before you need to change the rear brake pads. Typically the front brakes are doing about 70% of the braking so the math works out if the brake compound is the same on the pads and they are the same thickness to begin with.

Darren

K9Caddy
09-01-11, 12:13 PM
Aerocoupe-

The type of rotor and thickness will determine if they can be turned or not. I'm not saying to do this "everytime" for every situation. The situation will dictate, I have no idea how much there is to turn on the Escalade rotors. Some rotors you can not turn, simply because there is not that much material to begin with. You are usually only taking a thousands or two off at a time, depending on how bad they are. If they are really bad, then of course they need to be replaced. It is not the best idea to put on new brake pads on old rotors, that have tons of brake residue built on them.

Aerocoupe
09-01-11, 06:30 PM
We are on the same page then with regards to the whole turning a rotor.

The bedding procedure will cause the rotor and pad to reach temperatures high enough so that any old material on the rotor will burn off. My Mustang will get a slight shudder in the steering wheel due to hard stops which heat the rotor up and cause the pad to stick to the rotor and deposit slight amounts of pad material. After some time the buildup can cause a warp like symptom in the steering wheel. All that is required is to rebed the pads to the rotor per the StopTech article and this will burn off the excess deposited pad material on the rotor.

Darren

shourty
09-09-11, 11:36 AM
Awfully strange to replace the rear brakes before the front; your front brakes do the majority of the work. That is an expensive, way over-priced estimate, I'd get a second opinion and try to find someone you can trust.

You should always "turn"/machine or replace the rotors when you change the pads. You might be able to get by not doing it, if they are fairly smooth, but why chance it? Btw, machining rotors run about $10 /rotor at your local part store. For $700 you should be able to buy 4 sets of brand new rotors.

oh no they told me that i need to machine the front and replace the rear. maybe the $700 to machine the front rotors included the brakes as well.

shourty
09-09-11, 11:38 AM
Aerocoupe-

The type of rotor and thickness will determine if they can be turned or not. I'm not saying to do this "everytime" for every situation. The situation will dictate, I have no idea how much there is to turn on the Escalade rotors. Some rotors you can not turn, simply because there is not that much material to begin with. You are usually only taking a thousands or two off at a time, depending on how bad they are. If they are really bad, then of course they need to be replaced. It is not the best idea to put on new brake pads on old rotors, that have tons of brake residue built on them.

ok thanks. what type of pads and rotors should i get?

shourty
09-09-11, 11:44 AM
K9Caddy,
I will disagree with you on turning rotors every time you replace the pads. The rotors are bedded with the pad material and if they are not showing abnormal wear signs or have a lip then I would not do it. I have run the 13" Brembo rotors on the front of my Mustang through two sets of Hawk HP+ pads and never turned them. Turning a rotor reduces the mass which is what controls the amount of heat they can dissipate. Factory rotors are already on the edge of being too thin so additional material removal that is not warranted is something I would think a person would not want to do. That is just my take on it but I have a bit of experience with road racing where the brakes are relied on more than anything.

Back to shourty's questions. IF your steering wheel is not shuddering when you brake then the chances are your rotors are not warped or do not have any high and low spots. If you fell you may be experiencing this then take them to the parts store and have them surface them. Please realize there is a minimum thickness that they cannot exceed. It is typically stamped on the rotor so find this before you go to the parts store so they do not give you a line of BS. When they turned the rotors on my GF's '07 it was two passes on the front and four on the rears. The rears were the ones that were causing most of the issue. I would suggest that you run a ceramic brake pad as they will provide very good braking with high mileage. They will squeak at first but that will go away after you bed the pads to the rotors a couple of times. Typical bedding procedure can be found here and you want to pay attention to the street oriented bedding procedure.:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Do you have to do this? In short no but you will not get the maximum braking potential out of your brakes if you do not. I do it every time I change pads or get new rotors including having to turn a set of rotors or both. If they have to turn one rotor from the front or back have them do both.

If you have any questions about how to do the brake job yourself so a search as it has been covered on here. Another option is having a local mechanic do the work for about half of what the dealer will charge. Either way you will still need to bed the brakes as they typically never do it.

One last thing, the vehicle may have already had a front brake job which is why the rear pads are showing more wear than the fronts as the rears typically are a two to one replacement. With that I mean the front pads will be changed twice before you need to change the rear brake pads. Typically the front brakes are doing about 70% of the braking so the math works out if the brake compound is the same on the pads and they are the same thickness to begin with.

Darren

thank you darren. do you have a specific brand for the ceramic pad? and from what ive been reading the ceramic pad will create less brake dust correct?... thanks again... im thinking if i changing all the pads might as well do all the rotors at the same time? also i will ask whoever does end up doing the job to bed the brakes. thanks...

K9Caddy
09-09-11, 02:07 PM
I believe the stock GM pads are ceramic on the escalade. If I was going to buy new, I'd probably look into the "Raybestos" line or OEM.

http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/raybestos/c1/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os_hgpwBXQw93IwMDX183Ay OnwJCwMCNDY3dvM6B8pFm8n4mPibGTl3ewq0mwoWmQk1mAiQEE EKXbzNvT38jPyMDdxM_CwMjUMsDfz9TMwNLQnIDucJBr8dsOls dtvp9Hfm6qfkFuaIRBlokiAImoQSc!/dl2/d1/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnB3LzZfTjRMNDNCSktTRTRTMTVSQjlRND AwMDAwMDA!

Aerocoupe
10-23-11, 12:40 PM
Sorry about not getting back with you on the brake pads. The Raybestos brand is really good as well as the Wagoner. I recently put a set of the Thermoquiets on a car and they squeeked a bit at first but after bedding them in they really suprised me as to how well the stopped and the dusting is not supposed to be a problem.

Also, Brake Performance has their slotted and dimpled rotors on a Fall Sale right now so those of you interested in an upgrade in rotors this would be a good opportunity and they come with free standard semi metallic brake pads or you can opt for the premium set for $40 which is about $20 a set cheaper than just buying the pads alone. Here is the link again:

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php?did=3141

Darren

MrHolland
10-24-11, 01:27 PM
Sorry about not getting back with you on the brake pads. The Raybestos brand is really good as well as the Wagoner. I recently put a set of the Thermoquiets on a car and they squeeked a bit at first but after bedding them in they really suprised me as to how well the stopped and the dusting is not supposed to be a problem.

Also, Brake Performance has their slotted and dimpled rotors on a Fall Sale right now so those of you interested in an upgrade in rotors this would be a good opportunity and they come with free standard semi metallic brake pads or you can opt for the premium set for $40 which is about $20 a set cheaper than just buying the pads alone. Here is the link again:

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/Premium-Dimpled-and-Slotted-Brake-Rotors.php?did=3141

Darren
So have you installed the new rotors and pads on your ride yet??

Aerocoupe
10-24-11, 01:49 PM
In short, no. They are still in the boxes. I moved my GF to Houston and its her ride so it got put off for awhile. Now I am in the middle of selling my house and trying to find one to buy in Houston so its going to be a while before the new brakes are installed.

Darren

Mike06train
10-26-11, 11:31 AM
Aerocoupe, can't wait to see how you like this set up. My brakes are about ready for a change and I want to upgrade. I was looking at Bear's big rotor kit. but this is a cheaper route.

On another topic, Shorty, you may want to look at a big brake kit if your running 26" rims. With more rolling mass (weight of the rim) you may be exceeding the already undersized brake setup.

felixgun
10-27-11, 01:02 PM
Wilwood was running a special on their big brake kits that is way cheaper then it should be... not sure if the sale is still going on though but when I upgrade i'm definitely going the Wilwood route. It's up there with Baer and Brembo IMO :/

Aerocoupe
06-22-12, 05:10 PM
I finally caught a break and got the new brakes installed on the '07. Took about two hours and man what a difference! Not only do they look much better than the old stuff but the stopping improved a bit as well. I tookt pictures of the install and the finished product and have to say I think they were worth the money and the rotors are lifetime guarantee against warping so that is another plus.

Driver Front:
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00168.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00169.jpg

Driver Rear:
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00172.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00173.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00174.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00175.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00176.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00177.jpg

Wheels back on:
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00179.jpg http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00178.jpg

Full body shot:
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/DSC00180.jpg

Sorry about the long wait but between moving and work I did not have the time or desire until now.

Darren

paunguy
09-18-14, 02:44 AM
get the powerstop kit on amazon. best 300 kit out there!