: Where's the amp fuse in our cars? for external amplifier / subwoofer ?



Frikiton
07-27-11, 12:12 AM
Hello guys,

I am wondering if we have a fuse box in the trunk area in our cars ?

Because I just realized the guy that did the wiring in my car so I can be able to add an external amp and subwoofer didn't run any cables from the battery (front) to the trunk how I had in my other car done Toyota Avalon.

Is there something I'm missing ?

ddalder
07-27-11, 01:25 AM
There are two fuse blocks located under the carpeting in the rear. They are accessible by removing the rear seat cushion and pulling the carpet slightly forward. There is a fuse labelled AMP which should be 30A.

ddalder
07-27-11, 01:29 AM
There is another one in the same fuse block labelled "REAR SHLF SPKR". It will be 15A. This is for the subwoofer.

Frikiton
07-27-11, 01:29 AM
There are two fuse blocks located under the carpeting in the rear. They are accessible by removing the rear seat cushion and pulling the carpet slightly forward. There is a fuse labelled AMP which should be 30A.'

You're a life saver. I am buying an externa amp for my subwoofer that requires a 160A fuse but I didn't see any fuse box under the hood (front battery). So I was wondering since I see my wirings for RCA etc in the rear where the Bose amp is at, I said to myself it has to be near there.

So what can I do if I need an external 160A fuse for this amp? should I not buy an amp that requires external fuse ?
Regardless, it seems the stock fuse or electrical system is not powering up my current amp to its full potential hence I am only less than half of the real power.

ddalder
07-27-11, 01:33 AM
I can't speak to a question of aftermarket components as I have no experience with these. I can say that if you require a 160A fused circuit that you should be connecting directly to the battery. Some would argue that a second battery should be installed and I wouldn't disagree with that either. Fuse placement should always be as close to the power source (in this case the battery) as possible. I'm sure others in the audio and electronics forum can offer more insight.

Frikiton
07-27-11, 01:38 AM
That forum side seems to be inactive lately.
But, I guess I should go to the installer who did my wiring about this.

EChas3
07-27-11, 10:45 PM
Unless you're an experienced installer (maybe even if you are) the STS will present some challenges. All of the OEM electronics have power to them even when turned off and/or the car is off. They are controlled by the various processors on the car's network.

For a 160 A circuit, you will want a 'home run' back to the battery. The amp should use a separate control circuit, too. We do have some forum members who have done it. I haven't seen their posts lately but someone will turn up.

Good luck!

Frikiton
07-28-11, 02:45 AM
Unless you're an experienced installer (maybe even if you are) the STS will present some challenges. All of the OEM electronics have power to them even when turned off and/or the car is off. They are controlled by the various processors on the car's network.

For a 160 A circuit, you will want a 'home run' back to the battery. The amp should use a separate control circuit, too. We do have some forum members who have done it. I haven't seen their posts lately but someone will turn up.

Good luck! Thanks Super E..
I am not an experienced installer whatsoever, I will make sure my Installer explains to me if he did the BIG 3 or what exactly.

AnderbrA
07-28-11, 02:22 PM
You will want to run your power directly to the battery. I ended up pulling back the carpeting and drilled a small hole behind all of the shields in the fender to go directly to the trunk. This also helps when running your ground to the frame. You could probably route everything under various trim pieces in the car, but seemed to be more work and most of them are pretty tightly fit, so fitting 10 or so gauge wire would be problemsome. For the remote power, I just piggybacked off the fuel pump relay so the amp turns on when the car turns on. It has worked flawlessly for 3yrs so far.

My only issue is with the line level output from the Bose amp. Doesn't seem to be enough input voltage to feed the aftermarket amp sufficiently, but I don't use any of it anywhere near its capacity either, so doesn't bother me.

Good luck.

Frikiton
07-28-11, 05:45 PM
You will want to run your power directly to the battery. I ended up pulling back the carpeting and drilled a small hole behind all of the shields in the fender to go directly to the trunk. This also helps when running your ground to the frame. You could probably route everything under various trim pieces in the car, but seemed to be more work and most of them are pretty tightly fit, so fitting 10 or so gauge wire would be problemsome. For the remote power, I just piggybacked off the fuel pump relay so the amp turns on when the car turns on. It has worked flawlessly for 3yrs so far.

My only issue is with the line level output from the Bose amp. Doesn't seem to be enough input voltage to feed the aftermarket amp sufficiently, but I don't use any of it anywhere near its capacity either, so doesn't bother me.

Good luck. Funny you say that because thats the same issue I'm having, the guy that did the wiring for me has the remote, ground and power coming from where the bose amp is located. I am not getting the same power in my amp or sub that I use to in my toyota avalon (I had the stuff done the right way i guess) RCA cables to the aftermarket radio, power & ground from the battery all the way to the trunk. But I guess what its different since we have factory premium stereo ?

AnderbrA
07-28-11, 07:32 PM
Funny you say that because thats the same issue I'm having, the guy that did the wiring for me has the remote, ground and power coming from where the bose amp is located. I am not getting the same power in my amp or sub that I use to in my toyota avalon (I had the stuff done the right way i guess) RCA cables to the aftermarket radio, power & ground from the battery all the way to the trunk. But I guess what its different since we have factory premium stereo ?

The only thing I have running from the Bose is the RCA Inputs for the amp. I tried the line level wires, which were very low, then settled on using the high levels for left/right rear dash speakers for the input.

EChas3
07-28-11, 10:10 PM
You can use a line driver to boost levels. There are many available up to 20 dB (I use a PAC Turbo 1 in many applications).

Frikiton
07-29-11, 12:31 PM
You can use a line driver to boost levels. There are many available up to 20 dB (I use a PAC Turbo 1 in many applications).
I think my installer told me something about that, that there's a module I can get to have the bass level go higher. Is this what hes talking about?



The only thing I have running from the Bose is the RCA Inputs for the amp. I tried the line level wires, which were very low, then settled on using the high levels for left/right rear dash speakers for the input. I mean I saw the remote, ground and volt cables are near the amp. But I guess these cars have all the wiring coming through that side as well. I think I should do the BIG 3 Upgrade ?

When I raise the bass level in the navigation it also raises my Kicker subwoofer, I am thinking the RCA wires the guy did are coming from a high/low that are not letting the subwoofer get louder. But let me tell you, this setup I have is so nice it pounds good. Hifonics Brutus BRz1200 (900RMS Watts @ 2ohm) with Kicker L7 12".