: What is the timeline for Head Gasket failure



Seanm57
07-25-11, 07:09 PM
I am sure this varies from car to car, but those of you that have had a head gasket failure.....Can you give me an idea of what symptoms you saw in what order? I am still on the fence about my possibility of a looming HG failure. I have a 2000 SLS. I have seen a few odd things with the temp gauge from time to time that I am just not sure about. Since this is my first car with an aluminum block, I am just not sure what is normal when it comes to the car's temp. I also still get the occasional rushing water sound from the heater core when accelerating. About once every week or so. I had some problems doing a block test in the past, and so I decided to do another this past weekend. Here is a rundown of what I have going on;

The good;
No overheating
No coolant loss
No white smoke
No problems running the Northstar Performance HG test. (needle never moved from 12:00)
Never seen the temp even increase past the 12:00 position under any WOT run. ( I am aware of the heavy damping the CPU does with regards to this)

The questionable;
Water rushing sound from heater core area on occasion.
Sometimes notice temp go up to 220 when sitting in traffic with AC on. Have seen it go as high as the first tick mark past 12:00. This happened once while climbing a vary long mountain hill.
Think I can sometimes smell coolant outside of the car.
The person who owned the car before clearly used those GM tablets. Coolant looks rusty.

So, I did a block test a while back when I was getting my first dose of internet panic. The fluid I purchased was watered down and returned, so it was hard to read. I purchased some new fluid and ended up contaminating my test when the coolant started to expand from the contact with the air. I gave up after that and just figured I was being ridiculous.

So, I decided to give the block test another go this past weekend and these images show what I saw. The first pick is what the fluid looked like after. No longer light blue. kinda blue-green. The second picture is where is where i pumped exhaust right from the tailpipe into the tester. Clearly it is yellow. My test on my surge tank definitely changed color with 3 pumps of the ball, but never went to yellow. It just went right to that green-blue color.

What I am wondering is......Since purchasing the car, I have driven it 5,000 miles in about 2 months. If the previous owner thought he had a looming HG failure and quickly sold me the car, would it last this long without overheating or losing coolant? What kind of timelines for symptoms have you seen? Should I plan to drive out to Illinois while my car still works to get it fixed at that Midwest repair shop? Any good Northstar repair shops near me? I live in Maryland Near the PA line.

Thanks for any input you can offer.

Submariner409
07-25-11, 07:21 PM
The chances 99:1 that you don't have bad head gaskets and it's perfectly normal to see the temps go to 220+ in this weather, under load, with the A/C on. The first tick (12:45) is only about 230 or so ........ normal.

The fantasy and hearsay on this question has turned everyone who owns a FWD Northstar vehicle into a "coolant paranoid".

BUT, take the car to a GM dealer and do a coolant exchange. Don't ask questions or try to "make it better' - just get the exchange done, and do it every 3 years: it's the cost of dong business.

The heater core noise - do some searching in Discussions, Item Specific: Cadillac Tech Tips for "purge line" cleaning.

Read my login header - you want to come to KI and compare cars ???

Ranger
07-25-11, 09:19 PM
Water rushing sound from heater core area on occasion.
Sometimes notice temp go up to 220 when sitting in traffic with AC on. Have seen it go as high as the first tick mark past 12:00.
These are the only symptoms you have, but NO coolant loss and NO overheating. I would not panic yet. Check that purge line for a blockage.

maeng9981
07-26-11, 01:43 PM
That was the first symptom I had in May 2010. I didn't lose coolant at that time, but I was not going uphill (except the outside temp was 113). Puzzled me at first but gave me the idea when I had a cold start misfire in September 2010.

But, I'd not worry about it unless the temp goes up any further or you start losing coolant.

98eldo32v
07-26-11, 03:11 PM
"Think I can sometimes smell coolant outside of the car".

Inspect at coolant crossover gaskets, any lines/pipes that carry coolant. Inspest surge/coolant tank cap.
Inspect engine block where the head meets the block for seepage of coolant.

If you can smell it, it's leaking/seeping coolant from somewhere.

Seanm57
07-28-11, 01:37 AM
Thanks for everyone's reply. I will be inspecting things this weekend and let you all know what I find. I plan to change out the coolant while I am at it. Picked up 4 gallons of distilled water and 2 jugs of Dexcool. Figured I'd drain, fill with water, drain, fill with water, drain fill with water, drain and then fill with 100% Dexcool. Hoping that gives me a 50/50 mix. Isn't it like 2 to 2.5 gallons of total coolant in the system or am I mis-remembering?

Seanm57
07-28-11, 06:38 PM
Took a look at some stuff this afternoon. After car had sat all night, I opened the surge tank cap to see if it still had pressure in it. It did. I know that is listed as a possible sign of HG failure. Of course, I wonder if a bad radiator cap would also cause that? I am guessing not. I figure that if cap pressure was only from thermal expansion, that once the coolant cooled down there would be no more pressure, even with a bad radiator cap. Is that correct? The purge line was fine. No blockage. As soon as car started a steady stream of coolant ran from the purge line into a bottle I had it in. I was dissapointed to see that the coolant had a greenish tint to it. I am guessing someone before me used the wrong coolant.

I did something odd, just to see what it would do. With the car off and the engine still cool and not having been run, I did a block test. It immediately turned that same green color as the pic above. I thought that was curious. However, giving it more consideration, I am guessing that exhaust gasses could have been trapped in the system and pumping the ball pulled those gases out and turned the fluid green.

I am strating to come to the conclusion that I am getting exhaust in my coolant. Most likely caused by HG. I would love to be wrong about that, but I think enough signs are there. The fact that I am not overheating and have no coolant loss does not comfort me much. Unless someone knows why I would still have pressure in the surge tank after the engine being off for over 24 hours.....Im gonna plan for the worse. I will say that the air that comes out when removing the cap does not smell like exhust at all. It just smells like coolant.

Ranger
07-28-11, 10:09 PM
While it IS possible that you are in the early stages of a HG failure I would not jump to that conclusion just yet. There is just not enough evidence to condemn them yet. If it IS in the early stages, the symptoms will start to appear.

maeng9981
07-29-11, 02:05 AM
If you want to make sure, close the cap and do some WOT with A/C on full blast. Do this as many times as you want and cool the car down. Block test it again.

Submariner409
07-29-11, 10:31 AM
Figured I'd drain, fill with water, drain, fill with water, drain fill with water, drain and then fill with 100% Dexcool. Hoping that gives me a 50/50 mix.

Don't hope - do it correctly. Drain the coolant and shop vac out the heater circuit - use the heater return hose connected to the water pump/thermostat cover.

Mix exactly 50/50 coolant BEFORE beginning a slow fill through the reservoir and top radiator hose at the radiator fitting. (it is common to get a huge air bubble in the top hose - a high point - and that causes very quick overheating on first start.) Use a clean 2-quart pitcher. Pour half of one jug of distilled water into the pitcher. Refill the now half empty water jug with pure coolant. refill the coolant jug with the distilled water in the pitcher. You now have 2 gallons of 50/50 mix and a clean pitcher. Repeat. A totally empty cooling system takes about 12 quarts or so - but 2 quarts will remain in the block after draining - there are no block drains.

Your Post #7: Don't go paranoid just yet. It is perfectly normal for a cooling system to retain some pressure (or slight vacuum) overnight - the ambient temperature may or may not be the same as when the system was last opened.

Seanm57
07-29-11, 04:00 PM
Thanks so much for all your help and tips everyone. I will get that fluid changed out this weekend and see how things go. Maeng9981, I did do that the first time I did a block test. Ran the hell out of it and then did a block test. Looked exactly like the picture above. Blue-green. Once I have the new fluid in again and run it for a few weeks, I will do one more block test. That's about all the fluid I have left for anyway. If it turns out blue or blue-green, I will not think anymore about a HG failure. As long as I don't overheat or start loosing coolant, I will assume it is fine.

Seanm57
07-31-11, 07:41 PM
Started changing out the coolant today. Noticed some sediment in the tank. Decided I should pull the surge tank and see if I couldn't flush it out. No go there, since it is really hard to get in there. Here are some pictures of how bad it looks. I think I might hold off at this point and buy a new surge tank. What do you all think. I used a screwdriver to scrape off some of the gunk and wipe it on a paper towel to try an ID it. It's not oil. I am think someone dumped those stop leak tabs GM used to recommend into the surge tank instead of the radiator hose. I was also quite disappointed to see that the coolant I removed was green. So, no telling what damage has been done by using the wrong coolant. Hopefully nothing. Anyone have any experience there? 78459784607846178462

Seanm57
07-31-11, 07:49 PM
Submariner, I wanted to follow up on the pressure in tank thing. I went out last night when the temp seemed to be about the same as when I shut down the car and sure enough, i only had a very slight release of pressure. Hardly anything. Feeling much better about things at this point. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of the water rush sound that happens occasionally. It doesn't bother me, I just figure it must be an air bubble that is in the heater core and hopefully it gets purged after this fluid exchange.

ponyboyt
07-31-11, 08:37 PM
There is no timeline, at least, no measure of time before this or that happens. Some will go longer, some wont. Every car is different. Some will "fake boil" the test kit, some will throw little fish tank type bubbles every few minutes. Some cars smoke, some cars dont. Some cars overheat, some wont overheat til the coolant is too low. Ive seen cars that were just topped up daily / weekly and never smoked or overheated, were driven until dead.... A couple people i know out here drive them !!every day!! to work, short trips, and the cars "seem fine".

The only for sure 100% guarenteed no doubt whatsoever thing is, once the symptoms are there, it will eventualy become undriveable.

Some cars never show the signs. I have more than one engine with 300k+ kms (one with 410,000) that all tested good.

I am going to start posting pictures of every car i test. Here is the first in a series: a 1998 Deville with 240,000 km's.

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z143/ponyboyt/IMG_0316.jpg

Ranger
07-31-11, 11:35 PM
I am think someone dumped those stop leak tabs GM used to recommend into the surge tank instead of the radiator hose.
That's exactly what that stuff in picture #4 is, but it will work it's way into the tank no matter where it is installed.


I was also quite disappointed to see that the coolant I removed was green. So, no telling what damage has been done by using the wrong coolant.
No damage at all. Green coolant is just as good as Dex. Green is silicated, Dex is not. Green needs to be changed every 2 years/24K. Dex "technically" is good for 5 years 150K.

Submariner409
08-01-11, 09:45 AM
[QUOTE=Seanm57;2669298 buy a new surge tank. So, no telling what damage has been done by using the wrong coolant.

Amazon.com. - automotive tab

Green coolant is just fine - do an exchange every two years and use the type where it says "Low silicate formula" or "No silicate formula" on the label.

tateos
08-01-11, 10:03 PM
That's the GM stop leak tabs - no problem there. The surge tanks is fine, as long as it doesn't leak, and it's a bonus if the coolant level sensor works!

Seanm57
08-03-11, 12:43 AM
Coolant change went well. Just a heads up for anyone deciding to do it by continually filling with distilled water until it drains clear...once my system finally looked and smelled like mostly clean distilled water (which took about 5 gallons), I just drained one last time, filled with a tiny bit more than 1.5 gallons of straight dexcool and then kept topping off with more distilled water until all the air bubbles were out. That way I know I have a 50/50 mix since the system holds 12.5 quarts of coolant.

I had one interesting thing on my first drive away from home. While turning right onto an on ramp, the car started hesitating very badly. It was bogging down and seemed like there was something wrong with the transmission. As I tried to merge on the highway, the DIC said, "service transmission." as I drove about a mile further, the temp started to rise just beyond the 5/8 mark. I pulled over and it stalled. I figured either my tranny was screwed or I got coolant onto something I shouldn't have when doing the coolant change. Once I opened the hood it was obvious. I took off the intake muffler box a long time ago. I am referring to that large hollow triangular thing just past the mass airflow. I had plugged it with a tin disk that fit perfectly without obstructing airflow. While I had that intake bent back to remove the surge tank the day before, it popped loose. When turning, it came off completely and screwed the computer's ability to balance the fuel mixture. Why it told me to service the transmission and why it started to run warm, I will never know. I put the plug back in...luckily it was sitting on the top of the wheel well....and it ran perfectly all the way home. I installed the intake muffler again and the car has been running great ever since.

I have had no water rushing sounds since changing the coolant and getting all the air out of the system. I'm sure running the heat at 90 to help purge the hater core helped.

I have one final question. People say that the surge tank will sometimes stay pressurized even after the engine cools if here is a HG failure. I'm having a hard time understanding the science behind this theory. If an otherwise normal cooling system, filled to the correct level, has exhaust gases entering the cooling system, the pressure should eventually exceed the cap rating. At that point, any excess pressure will be released and the system should keep a relatively steady 17 to 18 psi in the surge tank. Once the car is shut down and the liquid cools, it should compress and the pressure will drop. Back to atmosphere. If there is any residual pressure, shouldn't that just be do to atmospheric pressure changes from the last time the cap was opened until now?

All that being said, I am still shocked at how much pressure stays in my surge tank even after he car being off or 8 hours. Today is a good example. I was home by about 2:00pm. turned off car and went back out at 10:00 and opened the cap. There was a lot of pressure released. Does that seem normal, or am I missing something in my system that's malfunctioning? I know those blocks really hold the heat, so all I can figure is that it was still warm and the coolant was still expanded. I'll have to try it again when the car has been shut down for over 24 hours.

Submariner409
08-03-11, 09:28 AM
In order to make your service checks and engine inspections a LOT easier, do this - (search for "butt plug mod".)

FWIW, running the heat at 90 does nothing to increase or decrease coolant flow through the heater core - heat control is all done with air mixing doors - the core is full flow all the time.

Seanm57
08-03-11, 10:31 AM
Good to know about the heater core. I'll tell you where it did help running the heat at 90. That was first indicator that I needed to add more water. Once the heat turned cold, I could shut off the engine and see the coolant level had dropped. My coolant level sensor was sticking, so that indication wasn't working too well. I may have had some sort of blockage in that bleedoff line inside the surge tank. I know the line itself was clear from the pump since I tested that. However, after removing the surge tank I flushed it with water. Maybe there was some blockage there. At any rate, so far so good with regards to air in the heater core. Only time will tell if I see that come back.

Submariner409
08-03-11, 12:48 PM
While you were changing the coolant reservoir you should have rodded out the metal bolt-nipple that the purge line attaches to at the rear of the thermostat housing/water pump cover. That nipple tends to clog fairly easily. You did say that the purge line flowed well, but...............

Seanm57
08-03-11, 04:12 PM
Bad news. This morning and then again this evening after the car had cooled down a bit, I took off the cap and stuck my nose practically inside the surge tank and took a few sniffs. Exhaust smell. Pretty conclusive exhaust smell. That is disappointing. I guess it's just a matter of time at this point. Unless someone knows why that kind of smell would be in the surge tank otherwise. I guess I know have to decide to either fix it or get another car. Any chance I might just have a small leak in the gasket and maybe it won't get any worse? Hope Hope.

Submariner409
08-03-11, 04:28 PM
Well, nuts. That's not good.

A 2000 SLS, if in good to excellent condition (discounting the engine problem) is a nice car. I would be very tempted to get in touch with Jake at www.northstarperformance.com . Drop the engine, stud it/top overhaul, and it would run forever. Depending on mileage the timing chain slippers and tensioners should be done, too.

Ranger
08-03-11, 10:31 PM
Unless someone knows why that kind of smell would be in the surge tank otherwise.
There is only one way exhaust gases (smells) can get into the cooling system.


Any chance I might just have a small leak in the gasket
Yes, that's how they start.


and maybe it won't get any worse?
Not a chance. IF it is a HG, it will slowly get worse.

ThumperPup
08-04-11, 11:33 AM
and maybe it won't get any worse? Hope Hope.

like ranger said not a chance it will get worst over time

I drove for about 5 months from the time i first noticed i was overheating and getting low on coolant untill it just kept getting worst and worst it was so bad come april i was suprised i did not hve to call AAA on the long drive from Cleveland to IL to have it fix lol

ThumperPup
08-04-11, 11:35 AM
also if you have not already don't put any of the stop leak crap in there aspecialy the bars that all the dealers will tell you put the tabelts in or pour the liquid copper in dont use that crap
it might help with the leak for a week or 2 at at ime at first then it will get slowly worst in the mean time you will clogg up alot of stuff like the heater core wich is another 1000 dolalr job

Seanm57
08-04-11, 07:06 PM
Well, it's an SLS in ok condition because of hail damage. Originally I was going to do the bodywork and paint myself...kind of a new hobby, but I don't want to put any money in at this point. Honestly, if the HG is failing, I will just drive it until it starts overheating and then buy another, caddy or something else. There is a better than 50/50 chance that my wife would balk at me buying another Caddy at this point.

I talked to someone from Northstar performance and told him what was going on. harsh smell in surge tank, possibly pressure in surge tank. He convinced me to wait 24 hours after driving to see if there is any pressure left in the tank at that point. Just in case I'm mistaking the smell for something else. So, just to make my life difficult, my car decided to confuse me more. It hasn't been exactly 24 hours. More like 21 hours and I had to go somewhere, so I popped off the surge tank cap to see. There is a somewhat large temp difference from last night to now. What I got was a little hiss. Probably about what I would expect from the temp difference. Here is a video of me opening the cap after sitting for 21 hours. For what it's worth, it still has a harsh smell that is decidedly not sweet. I can't say it really smells like exhaust, but it's not a sweet smell.

I guess if it's exhaust gases causing that little hiss, there must not be a lot of exhaust gases in there.

Here is the link; FYI, you have to turn the volume up pretty loud to hear the hiss.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVv6q40uKik

maeng9981
08-04-11, 10:36 PM
If you suspect exhaust smell then you can easily block test the car to make sure.

Seanm57
08-05-11, 01:07 AM
Thanks Maeng9981, but did that already. That was the first post in this thread. Didn't turn yellow. Did it again the other day with the last of my fluid. I wonder if someone used some sort of acidic cleaner in the coolant and that's what I am smelling. One thing is for sure, from all the great tips people have given here, if it is a hg problem, it will only get worse and I'll know soon enough. It seems like it may be just be a tiny leak at this point. Just enough to smell sour, but not over pressurize the surge tank and not cause any overheating.

Submariner409
08-05-11, 11:25 AM
Post #12 - That's not ALL just sediment or Bar's Leaks HDC residue - that cooling system was totally neglected.

Post #27 - The slight hiss. You're OK - and I'll bet the engine is, too. The air/vapor in the reservoir will not smell "sweet" - more like old wet gym socks with a bit of compost thrown in.

Make sure the coolant reservoir is half full, cold, put the cap on and drive the car. Abandon the witch hunt.

Every 6 months I siphon 2 quarts of coolant from the reservoir into a plastic bucket. The fluid that comes out is crystal clear orange-yellow. I then replace it with the same amount of fresh 50/50 mix DEX-COOL.

ThumperPup
08-05-11, 11:30 AM
Every 6 months I siphon 2 quarts of coolant from the reservoir into a plastic bucket. The fluid that comes out is crystal clear orange-yellow. I then replace it with the same amount of fresh 50/50 mix DEX-COOL.

I do the same thing but not form the Resevoir and not a full 2 gallons probably just a little over a gallon but i take it from the Purge Line i take one of those chineese soup containser and then an old bottle of coolant thats empty and a funnel after i fill the contain then i star over again till the gallon is full to the top
then i add a gallon of fresh in

is it ok to take if from the purge line i mean like if i let that flow for more then a gallon am i going to ruin something with the car running ?

Submariner409
08-05-11, 11:40 AM
2 QUARTS and don't pump it out of the purge line - if you did, in fact, pump down the system by running the engine with the purge line disconnected for ANY length of time you have probably air-bound the heater core.

Remember: The heater circuit is full-flow and is the FIRST external part of the system to heat up - LONG before the thermostat opens, so if you pump the system down a gallon the water pump is running almost dry.

TP: Question........Why do YOU pump down the coolant level ?

ThumperPup
08-05-11, 11:46 AM
[QUOTE=submariner409;2673781]2 QUARTS and don't pump it out of the purge line - if you did, in fact, pump down the system by running the engine with the purge line disconnected for ANY length of time you have probably air-bound the heater core.

Remember: The heater circuit is full-flow and is the FIRST external part of the system to heat up - LONG before the thermostat opens, so if you pump the system down a gallon the water pump is running almost dry.

TP: Question........Why do YOU pump down the coolant level ?[/QUOTE

I figured the amount of dirt and acid that could acumulate in the engine over 6 months os so with the amount of driving i do
i started it because id like to be able to keep my cars as long as i can and i have doen this on all the cars i have owned since 2001 and present

am i doing it for the wrong reason ?

i havent doen it on the newly rebuilt engine yet and now i wont do it atleast i wont take it out the purge line ill get it out the top of the tank

Submariner409
08-05-11, 12:12 PM
OK.........That's a legitimate reason.

Ranger
08-05-11, 10:29 PM
I figured the amount of dirt and acid that could acumulate in the engine over 6 months os so with the amount of driving i do
How do you figure dirt is getting into your cooling system?

Submariner409
08-06-11, 09:35 AM
How do you figure dirt is getting into your cooling system?

Skimmed right past that one - it probably gets in through the heater core because of a dirty cabin air filter. :sneaky:

ThumperPup
08-06-11, 11:03 AM
To be honest i started it when i overheard someone els talking about it and i figured it was a good idea i then read something about it a few years latter and i read something where someone said the same thing
where i read it
i have always believed adding something fresh will help keep something clean but you cant just add something to something that does not disappear or evaporation you have to take something out when adding something or you over flow it and that not usually good so that's why i was doing that

Pete1996
08-08-11, 12:34 AM
Coolant change went well. Just a heads up for anyone deciding to do it by continually filling with distilled water until it drains clear...once my system finally looked and smelled like mostly clean distilled water (which took about 5 gallons), I just drained one last time, filled with a tiny bit more than 1.5 gallons of straight dexcool and then kept topping off with more distilled water until all the air bubbles were out. That way I know I have a 50/50 mix since the system holds 12.5 quarts of coolant.

I had one interesting thing on my first drive away from home. While turning right onto an on ramp, the car started hesitating very badly. It was bogging down and seemed like there was something wrong with the transmission. As I tried to merge on the highway, the DIC said, "service transmission." as I drove about a mile further, the temp started to rise just beyond the 5/8 mark. I pulled over and it stalled. I figured either my tranny was screwed or I got coolant onto something I shouldn't have when doing the coolant change. Once I opened the hood it was obvious. I took off the intake muffler box a long time ago. I am referring to that large hollow triangular thing just past the mass airflow. I had plugged it with a tin disk that fit perfectly without obstructing airflow. While I had that intake bent back to remove the surge tank the day before, it popped loose. When turning, it came off completely and screwed the computer's ability to balance the fuel mixture. Why it told me to service the transmission and why it started to run warm, I will never know. I put the plug back in...luckily it was sitting on the top of the wheel well....and it ran perfectly all the way home. I installed the intake muffler again and the car has been running great ever since.

I have had no water rushing sounds since changing the coolant and getting all the air out of the system. I'm sure running the heat at 90 to help purge the hater core helped.

I have one final question. People say that the surge tank will sometimes stay pressurized even after the engine cools if here is a HG failure. I'm having a hard time understanding the science behind this theory. If an otherwise normal cooling system, filled to the correct level, has exhaust gases entering the cooling system, the pressure should eventually exceed the cap rating. At that point, any excess pressure will be released and the system should keep a relatively steady 17 to 18 psi in the surge tank. Once the car is shut down and the liquid cools, it should compress and the pressure will drop. Back to atmosphere. If there is any residual pressure, shouldn't that just be do to atmospheric pressure changes from the last time the cap was opened until now?

All that being said, I am still shocked at how much pressure stays in my surge tank even after he car being off or 8 hours. Today is a good example. I was home by about 2:00pm. turned off car and went back out at 10:00 and opened the cap. There was a lot of pressure released. Does that seem normal, or am I missing something in my system that's malfunctioning? I know those blocks really hold the heat, so all I can figure is that it was still warm and the coolant was still expanded. I'll have to try it again when the car has been shut down for over 24 hours.

Our 1996 went something like this: 1996 STS Began coolant consumption at about 120K miles,
HG failure at 162K miles.
It lost a very small amount per year around 120K miles and it steadily increased.
I believe that WOT runs really, seriously, stress a failing motor and would suggest not doing them
if you want to get as much more life out of it.
I'm not sure if it is normal for them to last as long as ours did. We had a bad radiator hose
that did not totally fail until the end so perhaps it was the source of the small leak.
Your question is a good one and I wonder how many miles others got from the time
of first noticing HG issues to the point of total failure. I didn't know about HG issues at the
start so I'm not sure if the start was at 120K or not.
Good luck to you!

ponyboyt
08-08-11, 06:55 PM
This is a 99 shale STS. Bought by current owner @ 75,000 km's, now has less than 150,000 km's.

Owners description: randomly overheats. Does not use coolant unless it boils over from overheating. He called a garage in Toronto and described the issue, they dold him---over the phone--- that his rear headgasket was gone. I did not hook the line up to vaccuum, it did not change from blue til i revved it to 2000ish the first time and let it bubble.

The pic with the fluid not bubbling is at idle. The pick with bubbles is taken at idle with a 5 second long 1800RPM.

I also let the engine run a bit before putting the tube on, give it a few short revvs first, as it was blowing a lot of coolant out the top, and they have a habbit of filling the tube with coolant :P

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z143/ponyboyt/IMG_0346.jpg

http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z143/ponyboyt/IMG_0345.jpg