: 50,000 mile service



ltorrance
07-18-11, 01:14 PM
new member, dealer asking 600 to do scheduled 50m mile service. Can anyone tell me what items need to be addressed at 50m service. Purchased the car from dealer with 36m miles on it. I hate to pay them to do things that I can do. Just finished replacing the oil filter housing on my BMW 528i, all went well, sure would be good to learn more about my 2006 STS.

thanks, from Texas

KRSTS
07-18-11, 07:37 PM
Carefully look at what you get for your $600. Bet its mostly check this and check that, most of which is not required. Look at what your owners manual REQUIRES at 50K. Beside an oil change and tire rotation, it is very few items and should cost no more than $125-$150. My dealer offers a schedule I service for $116 and an additional $19.95 for the additional GM required checks. Also included is a 27 point inspection which covers just about anything else. BTW, he also offers a so called "50k service" for about $600, but IMHO it is nothing but a cash cow for the dealer that I guess many cadillac owners fall for.:banghead:

EChas3
07-18-11, 09:43 PM
Change the air filter & clean the throttle body. The rest should just be inspections but don't forget to check N* intake manifold bolts.

Follow the OLM for oil changes. By 5 years/50,000 miles, tires and brakes may be overdue.

C&C
07-19-11, 05:20 AM
Simply ask the dealer, what does this service include. If you don't want to have to decline (while at the dealership), simply call the service department and say, I have a 50,000 mile checkup due; how long will it take and what exactly does this entail. And when they list the items that they are going to perform you always have the option of declining an item or two; this is where you need to look in you owners manual to determine what is recommended from the factory (not the dealer).

carter's_sts
07-19-11, 05:28 PM
This is what I plan on doing at 50k, from owners manual:

Change transmission fluid
Throttle body cleaning
Cooling system flush (@5 years)

That's it for right at 50k.

EChas3
07-20-11, 10:37 PM
Have you been towing? Trans fluid s/b good for 100,000 miles.

You're right on the coolent though; 5 years is time (despite 150,000 miles life). I forgot I had a water pump replaced under warranty and had them do the flush & fill. (Dexcool does not like fresh air.)

carter's_sts
07-23-11, 03:11 PM
I think you are thinking of the transfer case and towing. Pretty sure they still recommend 50k on the transmission.

KRSTS
07-23-11, 03:31 PM
Dealer will recommend 50K on the transmission. Manufacture says 100K unless severe service. Check the manual.

carter's_sts
07-25-11, 12:00 AM
When I made a maintenance schedule for my car (very geeky, yes), I picked the 50k mark for the trans fluid because of the below info. A couple of those apply to me at least some of the time, so I guess I was erring on the side of caution. Technically you guys are right, but I consider myself right too. I had to look again to see why I decided on 50k.

(h) Change automatic transmission fluid and filter (at 50k) if
the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of
these conditions:
− In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90F (32C) or higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as limousine service.
− Uses such as high performance operation.

EChas3
07-27-11, 10:16 PM
Conversely, those conditions are pretty rare for me and these transmissions are assembled in 'clean room' conditions. I may not wait for 100k miles but 50k seems early for me.

KRSTS
10-05-11, 01:01 PM
Has anyone cleaned their own throttle body? How is it done? I can't seem to find the tread on this.

kschwed
10-05-11, 02:15 PM
Has anyone cleaned their own throttle body? How is it done? I can't seem to find the tread on this.
I'm also considering cleaning it myself, but I can't find any instructions.

scott9001
10-05-11, 09:22 PM
Clean
Throttle Body (E)
Inspect throttle body bore and valve plates for deposits, open the throttle valve and inspect all surfaces. Clean as required.


Inspect
Air Filter Element (E)
Inspect engine air cleaner filter. If necessary, replace filter.

Brakes and Traction Control
Inspect brake system. Visually inspect brake lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts, including calipers, parking brake, etc.

Coolant
Check engine coolant fluid level, and add fluid as needed.

Cooling System
Inspect engine cooling system. Visually inspect hoses and have them replaced if they are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes, fittings and clamps. To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling system and pressure cap and cleaning the outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser is recommended at least once a year.

Exhaust System
Inspect exhaust system for loose or damaged components.

Fluid - A/T
Check transmission fluid level and add fluid as needed.

Fuel Supply Line
Inspect the fuel system for damage or leaks.

Restraint Systems
Inspect restraint system components. Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced. Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings, and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.)

Steering and Suspension
Inspect steering and suspension components. Visually inspect front and rear suspension and steering system for damaged, loose or missing parts or signs of wear. Inspect power steering lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Visually check constant velocity joints, rubber boots and axle seals for leaks.

Tires
Check tire inflation pressures and wear.

Vehicle
Visually check for any leaks or damage. A fluid loss in any vehicle system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired and the fluid level checked. Add fluid if needed.

Washer Fluid
Check windshield washer fluid level, and add fluid as needed.

Wiper Blade
Inspect wiper blades. Visually inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield.


Lubricate
Doors
Lubricate body components. Lubricate all key lock cylinders, hood latch assembly, secondary latch, pivots, spring anchor, release pawl, rear compartment hinges, outer liftgate handle pivot points, rear door detent link, roller mechanism, liftgate handle pivot points, latch bolt, fuel door hinge, cargo door hinge, locks and folding seat hardware. More frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a corrosive environment. Applying silicone grease on weather-strips with a clean cloth will make them last longer, seal better and not stick or squeak.


Replace
Cabin Air Filter
Replace the passenger compartment air filter. If the vehicle is driven regularly under dusty conditions, the filter may require replacement more often.

Engine Oil (E)
Change engine oil and filter, or every 12 months, whichever occurs first. Reset indicator.

Oil Filter, Engine (E)

orange57
10-06-11, 01:51 AM
Conversely, those conditions are pretty rare for me and these transmissions are assembled in 'clean room' conditions. I may not wait for 100k miles but 50k seems early for me.

I've heard this about the trans being assembled in a clean room. Does anyone know the class of cleanroom? I know where I work, we could get class 100K clearnroom envrionments in our clamshell tent outside, providing it's not a windy day and there aren't a lot of people stomping through.

BaTu
10-06-11, 07:57 PM
Has anyone cleaned their own throttle body? How is it done? I can't seem to find the tread on this.

It's really Very simple to do....

Once you remove the big, rubber, intake tube from the throttle body you can see the "butterfly" plate and where it's edge seats in the throat. You'll see you can push that plate from closed to open with your fingers.

Next, with a clean cloth and maybe a tooth brush you use carb cleaner to remove the black carbon deposits from both the plate (especially the edge) and the bore where it sits when closed. Here's what's important though,, you Do Not want to put too much liquid on everything (it will pool in the plenum and could attack the seals on the throttle shaft). So, spray it on the Cloth Only and wipe with it. For stubborn areas, spray the brush (you may not even need this) and shake off the excess then scrub & wipe.

Easy to do on almost Any car. Anytime you see or hear the idle fluctuate a bit, it's the first thing to try. Good maintenance before that ;)

KRSTS
10-06-11, 11:22 PM
thanks

KRSTS
10-16-11, 12:18 PM
I just took my 2008 3.6L DI to the dealer for an oil change and tire rotation. They also do a complimentary 27 point inspection which is just a way to extract more money for unnecessary services. He told me I needed a throttle body cleaning at $169. I said I don't think so. I just finished cleaning mine with rag and a little carb cleaner. Since mine is DI, the only thing that goes through it is filtered air. There was a little black carbon, but nothing major after 45K miles. Took all of 15 minutes. Be wary; be very wary of what the dealer tells you. And my dealer is one of the better ones.:ripped::lies: