: changing to dual valve springs, easier to do with removing supercharger cover??



dvandentop
07-12-11, 01:40 AM
man these motors are about as bad as the fbody motors to work on it looks like being shoved so tight in there :D

i remember the days of my old LT1 trans and and putting in headers and spark plugs :bighead:

anyways any reccomended removals to make it a little simpler??

going to do cam swap end of the month most likely

wait4me
07-12-11, 02:45 AM
You can do them with the supercharger left on, just pull the valve covers, and spark plugs, then you can do them fairly quickly.

M5eater
07-12-11, 08:48 AM
You can do them with the supercharger left on, just pull the valve covers, and spark plugs, then you can do them fairly quickly.

agreed. All LS motors are super easy to work on with regard to this.

Rabbitctsv
07-12-11, 09:44 AM
if your doing a cam swap you should take the super charger off , you will need ( or most do it, I know i did ) to up grade to a solid isolator and to swap that out you will need to remove the supercharger. It takes all of 20- 30 min to do. i would do it to make this a easy cam swap.

wait 4 me has a great DIY on youtube.

dvandentop
07-12-11, 11:24 AM
You can do them with the supercharger left on, just pull the valve covers, and spark plugs, then you can do them fairly quickly.

there is alot of crap in the way, i have done several vette and fbody cam swaps already just seeing if anything to get outta the way on the V motor to make it a little more open work space like the vettes :D

cbloveday
07-12-11, 12:58 PM
I removed the coil wires, my valve covers and rockers to install new push rods. Take you time. No need to remove the SC cover.

PhxTriode
07-12-11, 03:18 PM
You don't have to pull the S/C for spring removal just mind the injector/coil harness. You only have to pull #8 and #1 coils to get to all the valve cover bolts. I leave the plug wires on the coils and the remaining coils on the valve cover and remove. It would be a good idea to get a 8mm 3/8's drive socket for the rockers.

The other plus side is if you are using a leakdown tester to charge your cylinders (to hold the valves in place) you can do your leak down at the same time.

Also the stock locks stick a bit and may require you to use a socket that is large enough to clear the valve stem and locks and a light tap with the cylinder charged to to free them before using your spring compressor.

One last thing is if you are going to a double spring you will have to remove the stock seals/spring perch and will end in some foul language as they are a pain.

Hope this helps

dvandentop
07-12-11, 07:25 PM
to get the stock seals off and seats usually just use a pliers to get the seal and a magnet to get the seats off

PhxTriode
07-12-11, 07:56 PM
They are one piece on our V's and pliers are tough to get where you need them doing it in the car.

zinner
07-13-11, 12:47 AM
Get ready for the sewing machine :) What cam are you putting in ?:thumbsup:

PhxTriode
07-13-11, 01:24 AM
Get ready for the sewing machine :) What cam are you putting in ?:thumbsup:

No sewing machine with an LXL lobe profile...

zinner
07-13-11, 11:27 PM
I thought it was dual springs that made the noise not the cam profile. Anyhow in my 05 CTS-V you couldn't hear crap inside with the windows up and that head headers and an X pipe as well as a cam. I love the caddy sound deadening.