: Boost reference/ECU diagram for water injection



tabio42
07-07-11, 12:27 PM
I am planning on yanking the aquamist HFS from my Evo and putting it in my V. I need to find two things and would appreciate help from wise minds-
1. A good spot for a boost reference (in case I decide to go boost activated)
2. An ECU pinout diagram - I need to splice into one of the injector signals as the system duplicates injector pulsewidth in order to maintain a ratio of water(or methanol) to fuel, and also uses calculated duty cycle to activate the system

On a side note, I am going to use straight water. I have had great success in the past on turbo motors with water. Water has infinite octane (it does not combust), does a great job of reducing IAT and in-cylinder temps (not sure how it compares to methanol), and with a baby on the way I don't really want to roll around with a methanol tank in the car :)

Domsz06
07-07-11, 01:11 PM
where do you plan on mounting the nozle? Boiling point of water is 212, so you'd be pushing a liquid into your SC?

Water doesn't have a "flash point" like I had thought after I did some research.

TheG
07-07-11, 01:19 PM
where do you plan on mounting the nozle? Flash point of water is 212, so you'd be pushing a liquid into your SC?

The boiling point of water is 212 is greatly reduced in the intake do to fact there is a big negitive in the intake track. Havent looked up what boiling point would be. If i remember correctly at full throttle mine was like 17" negitive.

Domsz06
07-07-11, 01:52 PM
The boiling point of water is 212 is greatly reduced in the intake do to fact there is a big negitive in the intake track. Havent looked up what boiling point would be. If i remember correctly at full throttle mine was like 17" negitive.

so your saying your pulling a vaccum which would then reduce the temp required for the water to change. This could then make a cooling effect I think... Makes sense.

Guess you don't hear too many people injecting water into the air intake....

BLitzkrieg
07-07-11, 02:19 PM
There is more to be had by using denatured alky with a little water (so the level sensor works). Pump is straight from your washer tank. Water reduces your AIT but is also inert. You are better off using a high octane fuel (Ethanol not Methanol) with a lower evaporation point. The phase change will draw the AIT down more than water. Ethanol has a higher specific energy and it also is a lot easier on the aluminum than Meth.

cts-v ls6
07-08-11, 12:02 AM
If you look at a steam chart pressure table you can see that water changes phase from a liquid to a vapor (and absorbs about 1000 btu per pound of water) at 212 deg F at atmospheric pressure (14.696 psia). When you pull a partial vacuum on the air going into the engine, say reducing the pressure from 14.696 to 6 psia, the water injected changes phase at 170 deg F.

6 psia would equate to about 21.4 in Hg vacuum. 17 inches negative as mentioned above would be about 17/29.92 in Hg x 14.696 = 8.35 psia, which equates to a flash temp of about 181 deg F.... certainly doable under the hood of a blown engine.

Jack

tabio42
07-08-11, 01:52 AM
Blitz- the fact that water is inert is th primary reason I am using it. First and foremost for safety reasons. Even with the rollover valves on my methanol tanks, they were still likely to go up in flames in the event of an impact. This is in addition to the toxic fumes emitted by methanol. Second, water cannot pre ignite or detonate. Methanol and ethanol are fuels which can pre detonate. Each one has a specific stoich lambda (7:1 for meth I believe). In my opinion this makes tuning difficult.

PhxTriode
07-08-11, 01:47 PM
I like the idea of referencing a controler for water or meth using injector pulse and not just MAP as MAP values are absolute and not just above baro so any big air pressure change the trigger point for the system changes.

Keep us posted