: Installing MAP trailing arms, questions



WesH8398
07-02-11, 03:17 PM
For those of you that have installed these things, I have a few questions. I installed my passenger side arm the other night (ran out of time to do the other side) and I had a few issues. One was that I could just barely get the cradle to drop enough to get that mile long bolt out. I started with just the forward cradle mounting bolts undone (both sides) like Adam's how-to said, but I wound up having to drop the rear cradle mount bolts too, AND I had to pry like hell with a crow bar whilst trying to work the bolt out with my free hand. It wasn't much fun, especially putting the new arm back in with only 1 hand.
I was worried about damaging things from pulling the cradle down so much, but since others have been problem free in that respect, I just reefed as much as necessary. I kept an eye on a brake line that I could see, but otherwise I didn't know of anything else to watch for.

My other issue was with the clearancing of the strut mount. I had to grind off significantly more than the 1 or 2 millimeters that Adam suggested in his how-to post, and I think the arm is still making contact with this area. Anyone else encounter this?
strut mount
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/583145fc.jpg
New extra clearance
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/039331ec.jpg
Other end
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/7658dab8.jpg

soflarick
07-03-11, 09:32 AM
It's a shock, not a strut. Did you unbolt the swaybar endlink to do the install? Did you loosen the other side's front cradle bolt at the same time? Those procedures would give you more room.

WesH8398
07-03-11, 10:53 AM
Well excuuuuuuuuse me for my shock/strut mistake! I'll never do it again; promise! lol :canttalk: ;)
Seriously though .... thanks for the suggestion on unbolting the endlink - this didn't even cross my mind. As for the other side's cradle bolt, yes, I had those loosened down to their last few threads as well. I wasn't (I'm not) sure if the cradle has any articulation points or if it's solid, so I didn't want to be reefing on only one side of it if it was solid.

AAIIIC
07-04-11, 01:14 AM
I don't remember which side was better and which was worse, but on my car one side I really had to work the cradle to get the bolt out. The other side was still a tight fit, just not as bad.

It's hard to measure how much clearancing one needs to do, but I would say the 1-2mm in the instructions is quite optimistic. I took off quite a bit - your picture looks about like what I remember mine looking like.

soflarick
07-04-11, 06:59 AM
I don't recall, but I may have removed the front cradle bolts, and supported the cradle with wood between the lower cradle support rails, then used the jack to lower and raise the cradle. If I did remove the front bolts, I don't remember having to lower the front of the cradle very much.

WesH8398
07-04-11, 08:29 AM
I don't remember which side was better and which was worse, but on my car one side I really had to work the cradle to get the bolt out. The other side was still a tight fit, just not as bad.

It's hard to measure how much clearancing one needs to do, but I would say the 1-2mm in the instructions is quite optimistic. I took off quite a bit - your picture looks about like what I remember mine looking like.
Thanks for the reassurance. Can you speak to soflarick's suggestion regarding the disconnection of the end links for more clearance? Or did you do that? Do you remember doing anything about that (those) rubber brake line(s) that get a little tight when the cradle starts dropping?


I don't recall, but I may have removed the front cradle bolts, and supported the cradle with wood between the lower cradle support rails, then used the jack to lower and raise the cradle. If I did remove the front bolts, I don't remember having to lower the front of the cradle very much.
You had to 've dropped the cradle at least 5 or 6 inches if your front trailing arm mounting bolt was fed down through the top (bolt head on top, nut on bottom). There's no other way to remove the bolt, from what I can see. The how-to thread that Adam (MAPerformance) made for these did have a few posts where people were saying that their front mounting bolts were actually installed "upside down" with the nut on top, so the bolt would just come out the bottom; maybe this is why you didn't have to drop your cradle much. The thing with the "upside down" mounting bolt is that the end of the bolt would have protruded into the floor pan, or prevented the cradle from seating all the way. The same type of variance was found with the rear mounting bolt. Some people's bolt faced towards the control arm (like mine, which meant I had to disconnect the control arm from the knuckle and raise it out of the way in order to be able to pull the bolt out), and some people's faced towards the brake rotor (resulting in not having to touch the control arm, but having to removet the brake rotor to pull the bolt out).

Thanks for the input boys.

soflarick
07-04-11, 08:43 AM
The swaybar assembly and control arms are all part of the cradle assembly, but I remember removing the endlinks to allow me to move the control arms further than if they remained connected. My front bolt was fed from above IIRC, and I like that design. If the nut were to fall off, the bolt will remain intact.

WesH8398
07-08-11, 05:45 AM
Got em done today boys, thanks for the tips. I didn't wind up disconnecting the sway bar links, but the driver's side was definitely easier. I totally removed the front cradle bolts, and loosened the rear cradle bolts to their last few threads. I still had to pry the cradle down with a crow bar, but it was easier this time for some reason.
A CAUTIONARY WORD: MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THR BRAKE LINE BRACKET IN THE PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WELL BEFORE YOU START PRYING/PULLING THE CRADLE DOWN. I noticed the lines getting a little tight without this bracket removed from the wheel well.

Anyway, all went well. I shaved some more material off of the passenger side shock mount, did the same to the driver's side, and also had to grind a flat spot into the front cradle mounting bolt washers to keep them off the arms.

After this and the soon-to-be-known 'edmod' (3/8 rubber homemade 'washer' under rear spring perches to boost up the 'too low' H&R's), everything is awesome! No more 'reverse rake', no more fender rubbing on tires, no more wheels rubbing on trailing arms, and no more crappy feeling cut OEM springs.

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/998a42cc.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/64bf9e2b.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/6ff03b34.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/91a8a5d8.jpg


http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/d5e83c0e.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/20a714d7.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/2c00654f.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/e6973662.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/abb610e5.jpg

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy71/wes8398/397b54c6.jpg

soflarick
07-08-11, 06:59 AM
well done sir

WesH8398
07-08-11, 08:21 PM
A'thank you. I'm ecstatic. Back to loving my car. Driving 'on eggshells' for the last month or so sucked balls. All that's left is an alignment and a fender rolling just to be safe. No hurry though.
Thanks again.