: 93-96 Fleetwood Windows

10-16-04, 12:35 PM
Hi I'm new to the forum, so let me introduce myself. I live up in Calgary Canada and I'm a certified Cadihollic. Currently own a 1995 Fleetwood, 1990 Seville, 1981 Fleetwood Brougham, 1978 Seville and a 1976 Fleetwood Talisman.

My question is that with my '95 Fleetwood I have had quite bad luck with the electric windows. I've had trouble with both rear windows coming out of the tracks, in fact one needs to be repaired this weekend as it won't go up or down.

I've replaced the front regulator once already and it seems to be not going up/down as cleanly as it should so I'm waiting for it to fail again.

I heard talk about these being weak points on these cars. Is this true and is there any "secrets" to fixing these problems for good?

By the way have a look at this '93 for sale in Montreal,
1993 Fleetwood (http://www.collectorcarhunter.com/listings/detail01.lasso?listing=33067&loc001=)

It seems very expensive, even for the low milage but this is a very big dealership, they must know what they can get for it.

10-16-04, 01:07 PM
By the way have a look at this '93 for sale in Montreal,
1993 Fleetwood (http://www.collectorcarhunter.com/listings/detail01.lasso?listing=33067&loc001=)

It seems very expensive, even for the low milage but this is a very big dealership, they must know what they can get for it.

No leather? And almost $20gs US!

10-16-04, 02:26 PM

Welcome, I haven't been on line long myself. You'll find a lot of good guys (and gals) in this and other Caddy Forums.

I have a '94 Fltwd. and also have problems with the left rear window, coming off the track and falling ascew, needing a helping hand to straighten it in the track before rolling it up.

I don't have as many kids these days at home, riding in the back seats, so I have just learned to keep that window up all the time. I know it could be fixed, but I hate opening up the door unless absolutely necessary.

I keep the window locks on, so someone doesn't roll down the window not knowing it is broken.

10-23-04, 05:22 PM
i believe thsi is the same problem mentioned in the impala ss handbook ill list the info here

Window Sag
PROBLEM: The power window regulators move the door glass via a plastic retainer that slides in a metal guide mounted on the bottom of the glass. The standard equipment plastic retainer is a rectangle with a big hole in the middle where a ball tipped end of each regulator arm snaps into.
The plastic fails (breaks) at the narrow sections and releases the arm which causes the window to fall on one side. This happens with age and use. NOTE: I have found this problem on 3 of my 4 doors!!
SOLUTION: Replace standard plastic guide with new design window roller: GM P/N 966-6748, List: $1.90 ea. Two required per window. Same part works on all windows.

Also, I highly recommend purchasing new door panel retainers as old ones may break or be unusable after inside door panel removal, GM P/N 15600382, $0.43 ea, approximately 5 or 6 required per door. Buy small box of aluminum or steel 3/16 diameter rivets for 1/2" depth HOW: Remove inside door panel, (See Door Panel Removal) (Sounds easy), unsnap regulator arms from bottom glass channel (if attached), REMOVE glass from door. You must first drill out
ONLY one of the 3/16 sized pop rivets that are present on each end of the channel AND remove/bend out the stops placed at the end of the channel (the same end as the rivet), Remove old retainers, grease channel with suitable grease (I used a white lithium based grease) and install two - 64 -
new rollers, replace pop-rivet, slide glass back into door and snap arms into rollers, and reassemble doors.

NOTE: You do NOT have to re-bend the channel stop tabs back into place as they were only there to retain the plastic retainers during assembly.

EDITOR'S NOTE: From experience, I have found that the rivet does NOT have to be drilled out.
Bend out the stops at one end of the channel and tap out the old/broken guides and replace with new roller guides. The stop doesn't have to be be bent back into position. Wow! Sounds easy! Well, it is for those mechanically inclined. The front doors are relatively easy
but the back doors are a more difficult as they require you to remove the channel guide in order to remove the glass. Also, getting the arms to snap into the new rollers can be difficult the first time.
You must position the glass/arms such that you can get some pliers (in position in the door) to snap the arm into the roller. Heating the rollers helps to ease insertion (warm only as they will melt if too
much heat is applied).

TOOLS REQUIRED: Phillips screwdriver, POP-Rivet gun/pliers, large pliers, various sized screw drivers for prying etc.
OTHER: Please retain part number of window roller otherwise you may have trouble identifying part via standard exploded view diagrams at parts counter (It is not there!!).
Procedure by Mitch Posner Your problem is the same as many others on the list. The guide in the track has broken. The old versions look like little torpedoes, the new replacements are round and actually roll in the channel.
Basically, you remove the door panel, bend the end (right next to the rivet) of the track (or grind a little notch with a dremel tool) on the side that failed, remove the old pink looking carrier (plastic) and replace it with the new teflon round one. After you bend the track at the very end, just inside the rivet (you'll see what I mean if you look at it), then insert the new roller. Take a small 2" Cclamp and press the window arm into the new roller. I can do it in about 10 minutes after the door panel is off.

Parts needed are: Rollers for the windows (8 needed to do all windows), PN - 09666748, Bearing (About $1.10ea) Plastic panel fasteners (5ea front door,4 ea back door) PN - 10161510, fastener, Special (about $.19 ea as I recall). I have done at least one roller on each window already and both on the front. When you have the panel off it would help if you put some wheel bearing grease in the track. This will keep the old style from binding and breaking. If you ever have one fail in the down position you can put the window up by having someone guide it while you activate the switch. Need any other help let me know.

NOTE - some folks will tell you to drill out the rivet, insert the new roller and replace the rivet with a screw and bolt. It's your choice - but I always go with what's easiest and what works. Getting those rivets out is no easy task. Hope this helps.
Procedure by Ken Orlando http://capricess.com/9c1/technical/info/window_fix.htm

Added Note: There is also an alignment bolt underneath the panel that will cause the window to sag if it becomes loose. I wrongfully diagnosed my problem as a broken roller when all it was was the bolt. It by the metal armrest bracket.

10-23-04, 08:09 PM

Your fingers must be awful tired from all that typing....:-)

That's great info. and brings back memories of me fixing the windows in my Olds 98 Regency. Thanks for the effort. I'll keep this for a good reference.

10-24-04, 03:51 AM
LOL nah.....I copied and pasted from a ss handbook i have in pdf format in case you haven't read it i have it here....


Mr Cowl Hood
10-25-04, 12:29 AM
LOL nah.....I copied and pasted from a ss handbook i have in pdf format in case you haven't read it i have it here....


You're right on the money if the windows are failing as in jamming on an angle when you're trying to raise them.

I'm new to this forum too. Hello, I'm Brian. I am not new to GM's B bodies as I've owned two Impala's (95, 96) and have gone through this same issue.

The part mentioned is pretty easy to come by and is cheap to buy (~$20). There is a better piece that my mechanic buddy has secured for me in the past and I'll see if I can get more info on that.

Good times gentlemen! :wave:

10-25-04, 10:56 AM
Thanks so much for all the help with this little problem. I was quoted CDN$500 for a complete window regulator! I had heard there was an easy fix. I'll keep you all posted as to how the repairs go. We just bought a new GMC Crew Cab 4x4 his weekend so the Cadillac can be taken off the road for the winter, so I'll have lots of time to work on it. Thanks again, Nicholas