View Full Version : What adapter box works best in 1998 Eldo W/bose to replace factory rap functions???

06-07-11, 09:03 PM
I have just replaced the entire Bose sound system in my 98 Eldo ETC. I ran all new speaker wire to the door and back deck ran new Battery cable from hood to trunk, made new pods for door speakers, got every thing working correclty even the memory for the deck and XM brain box. but I am still having some issues with the security not disarming after the car sits over night, nor the remote locks. I know I am going to have to pick up a convertor box to replace the radio memoru functions that deal with the "rap" functions. but there are about 4 on the market from good companies I would advice on what people have found with the different brands. just keep the comments nice, I am not brand loyal on this type of device. Any help would be great. the system I replaced OEm with is as follows: head unit=Pioneer DEH-p4300dvd, W/ Pioneer XM add on, front speakers-Boston Acustics SR80 plates, rear speakers=Boston Acoustics SR95.2 Amps=main Rockford Fosgate Punch 4080, 40x4, Sub amp=Rockford Fosgate Punch 100 bridged 2ohm. Subs,=2x10 Rockford Fosgate Punch in 4th order bandpass tuned to 42hz.

06-10-11, 08:09 AM
The HU doesn't deal with the RAP functions, not even close, the PZM is the one controlling the RAP relays, your question makes no sense. There is a data bus between all the modules (including the HU) and back in the trunk the RFA/PZM/RIM. The HU is closely likened with the PZM, IPC and PCM, these are the most important modules in your car.
The module complaining now is the PZM (you should have some IRC, RFA and PZM codes, or 'NO DATA'), the the data wires make (or use to) a loop between the PZM/RIM/RFA.
The car data bus was designed to work w/o the following modules (considered optional): CVRSS, RFA, RIM, MMM. Notice how the HU is not in this list!
Wait until the battery drains over the night because some module (likely the PZM) has an internal error (timing out while addressing the HU for example) and locks the outputs into open state (so battery drain galore), or your alarm goes off as the RFA tels the PZM the remote X is used so the PZM start sending request to the other modules (like MMM, MSM and HU) what settings to activate and oops...the HU is timing out so beep, beep, beep (quite embarrassing to trigger the alarm to your own car), or just like that driving alone, or over the night some module (like IPC) try to access the RIM or the HU and time out beep, beep, beep.
Not sure what to tell you other than go back to the factory setup or else you will have this issues NO MATTER what box you use, the firmware in the modules is not designed for that. Buy a FSM try to understand the diagram, try to piece together how the modules communicate to each other then you will understand what you did, thake the aftermarket stuff and sell it to a guy with a Honda.

06-15-11, 11:10 PM
From my experience that even the adapters that are designed to install and "fool" the for mentioned modules don't work all that well either. They tend to set codes that are not even relevant to anything else in the car. And worse case that I have seen is that the adapter sends 12v through the data line and kill the corresponding modules. And some of them are no cheap ticket to replace. And I like my steering wheel control.