: 69 Sedan de Ville official restoration thread



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CADforce69
06-07-11, 02:09 PM
Itīs time to open an “official restoration thread” for my ‘69 SDV, as someday it may help to someone who have similar car / similar problems. First Iīm gathering up most pictures posted in different threads along the forum.

I bought the car from a man who seemed to be a compulsive collector of classic cars. He had a piece of land and a warehouse where he stored about 20 classics, Mercedes, Bentley, Cadillac, Lamborghini, Ford, Lincoln… In the past he had about 100 vehicles in this land, some inside and others outside the building. Now he needed some money and had to sell some of the cars. This one started easily, engine run very well, transmission worked apparently well (afterwords I discovered relevant trans fluid leakage) and brakes were apparently well, just some humming in transmission that did not worried me at first. The price was cheap and we made a deal. The car title was not very clear as he confessed but he bound himself to get everything solved so I was inscribed as the carīs owner and the car was ready to run legally. I advanced part of the money and the rest would be paid when I picked up the car. Doing the paperwork would take 1-2 months (Finally it turned to be 3 so I had to wait what it seemed to be an eternity for me).

Finally, on December 29 2010 I went to pick up the caddy, that was about 280 miles from home, with some paper still not ready but which I received some days later. The travel was a hell as I could check steering was very loose and front tires about 40 years old (and warped). The result was a horrendous trembling every time the car speed was over 25 mph and the road had any slight unevenness. Then I discovered that if I drove at more than 45 mph such effect did not take place. Later on, when I changed front tires the problem disappeared. I also changed tie rod ends, idler arm and drag link and since then, the car drove like heaven. Distributor timing was too advanced so when engine was hot at idle the car stalled when I turned the wheels to top right or left. Apart from that there was no incident (except for the red brakes light on but braking was good enough) and I managed to park it in my underground parking space not without some effort. It stick out near one meter, what aroused some complain.
A pic of the night travel:

http://s4.postimage.org/578aoacz0/IMG_0704.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1nmcyh9wk/full/)
image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

Some weeks later I took it to mi girlīs mum country house. It has no garage but I bought a good exterior car cover that is preserving it perfectly. Before that 55 mile travel I changed engine oil, oil filter, gas filter, air filter, sparks, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor. We tried to change points but with new points the car wouldnīt start. When I took the car to an experienced mechanic, he realized that there was not a good ground contact with new points installed. He solved the problem just with a file touch.
First pics of the engine: Dirt everywhere

http://s1.postimage.org/ssndmd38/IMG_0717.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/39v19c78/full/)
wordpress image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Distributor cap off and very worn tie rod ends:

http://s1.postimage.org/2klcbatgw/IMG_0718.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/39l4198k/full/)
wordpress image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s1.postimage.org/2klsuoafi/IMG_0713.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3a1neq6c/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s1.postimage.org/g1pqtbs2/IMG_0712.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3abkmt50/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)

This plate is the original one. Registered in Madrid (Spain) on july 31 1969

http://s1.postimage.org/6ew8rqodc/IMG_0751.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vab1xlc4/full/)
http://s1.postimage.org/9yi9smg2y/IMG_0749.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vaed0abo/full/)

I know: What are those lights doing in the rear bumper? Requirements to adapt the car to the european car light regulations. Iīm planning taking that out, changing back up lights for turn lights (just an orange bulb and wire change) and looking for the original moldings (not very easy to find)

http://s1.postimage.org/6ewh1fev2/IMG_0747.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vajbmbt0/full/)

Rear view is spectacular. I love it! Original trunk lock emblem and "V" were broken. They were changed thanks to the help of Sven914

http://s1.postimage.org/klccv9r82/IMG_0745.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vaoa8dac/full/)

Rear fenders "Sedan de Ville" and trunk "Cadillac" badges were missing but later I got them back to its place.

http://s1.postimage.org/h1qgt010m/IMG_0744.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vapxrps4/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/yrs8p43iv/IMG_0743.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2vat8uero/full/)

There was a lot of work to do with chrome but Iīm making it shine... These headlights were not OEM but an adaptation that former owner screwed on the headlight frame. New OEM type headlights would be installed later on. Left turn light would be also changed for another one in better condition the seller gave me with the car… Cracked but not broken.

CADforce69
06-07-11, 02:19 PM
About the carīs story: Its original color was this:
http://s4.postimage.org/jd9uigf9f/69sedandeville_Verde5.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)
I think its name is firemist gold. He had also vinyl roof. It was first bought in 1969 by some V.I.P. in Madrid and 2 years later sold to another person. The car had just 74.000 km. (46.000 miles) on its odometer when I bought it. I think front bias ply tires were original with all of their thread shown. It remained sitting for decades in the open at some estate near Madrid. Paint and viny degraded and interior burned by the sun. It was for sale for long time but the price was high for the car condition. Someday it was painted in pink to film some TV ad. Later on it was taken to a shop in Toledo where supposedly some fixings were done and the car painted in blue (very similar to OEM Athenean blue). The car was left stranded, as the owner never picked it up (and pay the invoice) so the shop had to keep the car for themselves and finally sold it 10 years ago to the man who in turn, sold me the car.

Some interior pics of my '69 SdV as it was when I bought it. This is the worst part of him. When some electrical problems are solved Iīm going to upholster seats and door panels, as they are very damaged due to long time exposure to sun. Fortunately, dash is not cracked. Just needed a good cleaning and detail fixing.

http://s4.postimage.org/tom3xnrk2/IMG_0740.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqm775gk/full/)
http://s4.postimage.org/mlea5kymk/IMG_0739.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqnuqhyc/full/)

Iīm waiting for a 70 steering wheel that for some reason is delaying. Meanwhile, I have put a cover like many '69 have to use due to rim deterioration. There was rust in the levers I already removed:

http://s4.postimage.org/mlebt4b4m/IMG_0738.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqpi9ug4/full/)
http://s4.postimage.org/j1shedxbx/IMG_0737.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqstcjfo/full/)

Headliners at least are in good condition but somewhat dirty. I was cleaning the part behind the driver sun visor when it ripped about 3 inches. Continuous sun and rain exposure weakened fabric.

http://s4.postimage.org/j1sj1x9tz/IMG_0736.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqugvvxg/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/fi6mznjm9/IMG_0735.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bqw4f8f8/full/)

Itīs an export version. It went right from factory to Spain. Dash is in kilometers. Under the dash two buttons: One to turn on the starter motor; the other for the horn (they could not find a more convenient place):noidea:
You turn the key to switch on contact and then push the starter button, but be sure that no gear is engaged, as you can have a surprise when the car starts. The start button was (I think) a botched job done when someday the start system failed to work, so they bypassed it. The collateral damage is the safety switch is bypassed too. The button wires go straight to the starter. Maybe I find someone here that can bring the system back to original.

Radio turns on but can hear no station (not even white noise). The man who sold me the car told me the problem was due to speakers. These speakers in the kick panels seem another adaptation. I checked them but the wire that should come from radio is detached. Iīll have to open dash top and connect some test speaker to the old ones connection to see if thatīs the problem. Iīm afraid that the problem is not that easy as dial does not change when you move the FM/AM lever (always in AM). Automatic antenna works perfectly.
Wipers do not work. We checked motor with two wires plugged directly to battery and it works correctly. Wiring was tampered but original relays seem to be in place so the mechanic will try to redo installation.

Heating/air conditioning did not work. We changed A/C heater ATC power servo and checked fan connection. One wire was detached. Now it works at low speed but not at high. Compressor clutch works but we have to refill A/C circuit to see if cooling system works.

Parking brake release is broken. Thereīs only a little rest of the manual release lever. What a surprise first time I applied it and realized that it did not release automatically when transmission selector moved to "D" or "R" as it was supposed to. Finally I could use the remains of the manual release.
Odometer shows 75.000 Kms. I think itīs real; the car spent long time unused, pedals are not very worn, as front wheels (although old, they showed a good thread). Gas prices in Europe combined with high gas consumption kept him as a low mileage unit.


Here is my 69 Sedan de Ville by a gas station in the way home after a brakes, suspension, steering, ignition and carburetor overhaul. As you can see height is back to normal after changing shocks (rear including a system to keep air level by an inflating valve as original compressor does not work). Some chrome polishing is under progress and A/C Heater ATC Power Servo has been changed so now it works although not in the "automatic" position (A/C gas not yet refilled). Now the car drives like heaven

http://s1.postimage.org/7jhktrtvh/IMG_0856.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/g9pe5o3o/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/lpxf02tqf/IMG_0855.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/g9sp8d38/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/3zvvdnhnf/IMG_0854.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/g9xnuekk/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/b33xff12d/IMG_0853.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ga49zsjo/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/i6c14pwz3/IMG_0852.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gacjoj0k/full/)

outsider
06-07-11, 02:31 PM
Awesome! You've made a lot of progress on this car and it's an amazing specimen. I can only imagine how people in spain look at it as I'm sure there's not much cars like this around there!

CADforce69
06-07-11, 02:51 PM
http://s1.postimage.org/st5xl7u1i/IMG_0851.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gafur804/full/)

Headlight rims were missing but I bought a new set. Below Iīll show you the new rims/headlight set.



Everything seemed to go perfect but 20 kms before the car arrived home something went wrong: Transmission began to seem retained progressively and then even making a snoring noise and finally like metal were rubbing against metal as I was looking a safe place to stop. When I got out I saw smoke out of the link between transmission rod and differential. I called the tow to take the car to its housing. The car still moves but the rear axle is braking.

Before it happened I could hear a slight howling noise from transmission. The mechanic told me that it came from a worn rack and pinion but nothing important; just an unpleasant noise. The last section of exhaust (fixed by a clamp) was lost in transport. I think itīs time to think about a new line :helpless:

This was the problem: No lube at all :helpless: and progressive wear of gears until differential has failed. Gears were stained in orange as an evidence of overheating probably when breakdown happened. Rack teeth were even sharpened by abnormal friction.

The screw top was not the original one and opening it was difficult. Maybe thatīs the cause of negligent maintenance. Probably, differential lost oil through front pinion seal until the problem solved by itself as oil was over:rant2:

Finally I received a "new" differential for my 69 SDV. After contacting several companies, I found AA National Auto Parts, in Phoenix, specialized in used cadillac parts. As they have some 69s, they helped down a differential in good condition and sent it to me by air through a local company that crated it thoroughly. They looked for the cheapest way to send it from AZ to Madrid, so finally I paid $ 200 for the part and $ 640 for the crating & transport (just the diff. weighs 95 lbs.!). Itīs the best quote I got. Iīve also bought a new diff. carrier gasket and new diff. pinion seal. We hope the rest is in good condition.

Here are some pics I took of the diff as I just opened the crate. I havenīt a great experience in differentials, but for the info I checked on Internet this seems to be Ok. Waiting for the mechanic opinion. Now the differential is at the mechanicīs home as heīll start work by changing pinion seal:

http://s4.postimage.org/cg2t7mdva/IMG_0924.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t90275es/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/fzoskyt2u/IMG_0923.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t91pqhwk/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/jjaryb8ae/IMG_0922.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t93d9uec/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/jjatluks6/IMG_0921.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t950t6w4/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/n2wsz6zzq/IMG_0920.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t96ocjdw/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/qmiscjf7a/IMG_0919.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t98bvvvo/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/u64rpvueu/IMG_0918.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1t99zf8dg/full/)

I hope we can change differential this week. Letīs cross fingers. Iīm looking forward to drive my caddy again.

CADforce69
06-07-11, 03:07 PM
Awesome! You've made a lot of progress on this car and it's an amazing specimen. I can only imagine how people in spain look at it as I'm sure there's not much cars like this around there!

Thanks outsider :) It attracts unavoidably the attention of everyone -even those who does not like cars:lol:- Classic cadillacs are very rare in Spain as only a few arrived here when new as very few Spaniards could afford buying and keeping these cars. Many of the classic caddies you can see here were imported from USA during the last 15 years. When itīs parked in the street crowds of people gather around it. Even in classic rallies in Spain itīs hard to see a 74 or older cadillac though you can see Fords, Chryslers, Dodges, Pontiac, Chevys... Itīs a rolling show :lol:

The differential breakdown has slowed down my schedule but I went on doing little fixings while the diff. was coming. Iīll try to keep up the speed as some people say the end of the world will take place on december 21 2012... And I have to drive my caddy for many miles before (LOL)

CADforce69
06-07-11, 03:31 PM
Some progress on my 69 SDV while I was waiting for the new differential. I cleaned steering wheel & dash and painted its totally faded chromed lines. I also took out the wood veneer dash panel, filed it off (it was full of bubbles) and covered it with auto-adhesive vinyl. I also painted the faded "cadillac" letters and lines above the glovebox. I used a silver felt tip pen to renew them. I also covered the sun burned wheel rim.
First I used engine cleaner, as dirt was stuck to surface from decades without proper cleaning, and then I used a dash renewer :

http://s2.postimage.org/j1r6tozhz/IMG_0874.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bpi8nllw/full/)
post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)

http://s2.postimage.org/x870zzzcx/IMG_0873.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bpljqalg/full/)
image hosting service (http://www.postimage.org/)

You can also see the vintage steering wheel cover to hide rim peeling off while Iīm waiting for my '70 wheel.

http://s2.postimage.org/fi5fq1as5/IMG_0872.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bpouszl0/full/)
wordpress image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Burned chrome line around dash was renewed also with flexible auto-adhesive chrome line sold by the meter.
Here is the pic of the flexible chromed molding roll I bought and a detail of the molding:

http://s1.postimage.org/k14gbfi5w/IMG_0899.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2b2rqe490/full/)


http://s1.postimage.org/y7kc59uim/IMG_0895.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2b2wp05qc/full/)


I changed old glovebox lock for a new one. It was difficult to close and handle was missing. I have to upload some pic

I also replaced headlights with original type ones and recovered missing headlight rims. Now high beam center lights work as there were no sockets in the old adapted ones, which were screwed to the frame:

Left: Old ones. Right: New ones

http://s2.postimage.org/x877m5dd5/IMG_0865.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bps5vokk/full/)
image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

I also took the opportunity to polish front chrome in detail.

http://s2.postimage.org/4vbeaxc7k/IMG_0875.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bpgl4944/full/)
free image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

http://s2.postimage.org/fi5459vcs/IMG_0876.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bpda1k4k/full/)
post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)

The mechanic tested wipers. The motor works well but installation is a mess. They are not totally down, awaiting installation fixing.

Soon pics of turn signal lens substitution adventure!

77CDV
06-07-11, 10:02 PM
Lots of progress here. You've got a fine car, and I look forward to seeing the finished product.

CADforce69
06-08-11, 08:32 AM
Thanks you for your kind comment. Iīm also looking forward to see it finished :D but it may take a year or maybe more, as when mechanical, electric and interior issues are finished Iīll get repaired front fenders, as there is relevant rust in the bottom (as most 69-70s) fixed in false with filler and paint and consequently back to surface again.

I can see signs of rust inside around rear window, as water leaked through the gap where the roof vinyl joined to rear window, that I sealed with polyurethane. As no more water is expected to leak and the car is under cover, I hope it do not get worse as by the moment I can not face a deep body restoring. After all, when inner rear window frame and rear tray behind seat is restored there wonīt be any hint.

Cadillacboy
06-08-11, 11:31 AM
Thank you for your submission , it's a pleasure to see these gorgeous rides gettin' back to their heydays

Have a good time
:highfive:

77CDV
06-08-11, 12:31 PM
I can not face a deep body restoring

And I don't blame you for that one bit! :)

outsider
06-08-11, 12:35 PM
^ Haha, is yours back on the frame yet?

77CDV
06-08-11, 12:41 PM
^ Haha, is yours back on the frame yet?

How about those Mets?

outsider
06-08-11, 12:43 PM
Oh maybe it wasn't you. Someone was having a 69 restored completely with the body off the frame. I thought it was you but maybe not.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1984-deville-fleetwood-1985/193010-white-blue-3.html <- this car

CADforce69
06-08-11, 03:13 PM
Thank you for your submission , it's a pleasure to see these gorgeous rides gettin' back to their heydays

Have a good time
:highfive:

Thanx, Cadillacboy. This one, so unfairly treated for decades, deserved that someone took care of him and bring him back to his splendor days. :D Iīll go on posting progress, maybe sometimes slow but I want it to be steady.

CADforce69
06-08-11, 03:25 PM
And I don't blame you for that one bit! :)

I know you speak from experience... In Spain these processes are no easier by no means. Itīs difficult finding someone who dares to do these cars and you have to be very, very patient (Iīm not) and prepare a large sum of money.

77CDV
06-08-11, 08:22 PM
Oh maybe it wasn't you. Someone was having a 69 restored completely with the body off the frame. I thought it was you but maybe not.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1984-deville-fleetwood-1985/193010-white-blue-3.html <- this car

No, that was me alright. I was dodging the question. :)

CADforce69
06-10-11, 09:00 PM
Some weeks ago I changed the left signal lens, which was broken when I bought the car. Fortunately, the former owner gave me another one -somewhat cracked- but not broken.

Until I got the service manual I went crazy about how to remove the "cornering, parking and front side marker light assembly" as is named in the manual. Itīs evident that I had to remove light sockets and the three screws (missing in the left side of my car) securing top of the lamp assembly to fender and screw securing rubber filler and assembly to fender at front of wheel opening but something still retained assembly preventing it from being taken out of fender. Once I read manual I discovered that you have to remove front bumper to release the lamp assembly!:holycrap: The worst of it would not be removing bumper but installing it back.

Front bumper is secured to frame by 8 bolts and nuts + flat washers. The manual recommends placing a piece of masking tape on the lower edges of the front fenders behind the side marker lights and between the headlamps and parking lamps, taping the comparable bumper areas and drawing horizontal and vertical crossed lines on each piece of tape (I drew crossed lines) to help placing when reinstalling bumper. The funny thing is that some little pieces of paint went with the painter tape when removed:annoyed: -There you see if a car is really well painted- (Iīll touch up it with similar paint).

Itīs necessary raising the car (I did it with a jack) to work comfortably and positioning a floor type jack so as to support bumper at outer ends. I started by removing the center 4 bolts / nuts and then I removed 2 sets in the left side (itīs difficult in the last phase, as they are not ordinary bolts but rounded head bolts squared in the head base that gets into a square hole and you can not hold head easily when square base is getting out of hole. I had to hold it by pressing head with a hammer stick; the other end against inner fender). Last nut was removed but the bolt stayed there to secure flexibly the bumper end and I did not removed the right 2 bolts / nuts.

At that point I raised the car from behind the front left wheel so bumper stayed about 1-1,5" lower supported by floor jacks and finally I could extract lamp assembly to my deep rejoice (I could remove two wasp nests built inside of the lens, fortunately empty). Still some difficulty as the little bolts -2 upper and 1 lower- securing front part of assembly did not match with my metric wrenches, so I had to use my pliers and loosening spray. Then, it started to rain and rain :hide: until night so the following weekend I could end the job doing just the reverse process and taking one of the bolts of the opposite side to secure left assembly to inner fender in a safer way.

Some pics to illustrate this book (sorry if itīs too long):

This is me fighting against evil bolts and nuts. You need a really good wrench to take them out. You need doing a good effort; while unscrewing them they get warm due to friction:
http://s4.postimage.org/k3jihkd37/IMG_0903.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhtwiz6s/full/)
image uploading (http://www.postimage.org/)

The bolts and nuts:
http://s4.postimage.org/gjxmfamvr/IMG_0902.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhvk2bok/full/)

lamp assembly out (you can see upper bolts securing front assembly):
http://s4.postimage.org/5x3pyspq1/IMG_0906.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhs8zmp0/full/)
image hosting service (http://www.postimage.org/)

Broken lens (It could not pass safety inspection):
http://s4.postimage.org/5x3ob9daq/IMG_0907.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhqlga78/full/)
image uploader (http://www.postimage.org/)

Finished job (Nobody could imagine it takes so much work):
http://s4.postimage.org/y9z4e6mim/IMG_0930.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhoxwxpg/full/)

Now Rex -thatīs my carīs name- seems happier with renewed lens :)
http://s4.postimage.org/r6r7b14l0/IMG_0931.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhnadl7o/full/)


http://s4.postimage.org/nn57xopd6/IMG_0932.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhlmu8pw/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/k3j8kca5c/IMG_0933.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhjzaw84/full/)
image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

CADforce69
06-10-11, 09:37 PM
Last news about differential: The mechanic broke the new front oil seal when trying to install it in the substitute. I donīt blame him as I know itīs not an easy job -not unusual-. Heīs waiting for a new one he ordered, so letīs wait some more days...:bigroll:

jayoldschool
06-10-11, 09:59 PM
You need some penetrating oil if your bolts/nuts are getting warm when removing.

77CDV
06-11-11, 03:06 AM
Some weeks ago I changed the left signal lens, which was broken when I bought the car. Fortunately, the former owner gave me another one -somewhat cracked- but not broken.

Until I got the service manual I went crazy about how to remove the "cornering, parking and front side marker light assembly" as is named in the manual. Itīs evident that I had to remove light sockets and the three screws (missing in the left side of my car) securing top of the lamp assembly to fender and screw securing rubber filler and assembly to fender at front of wheel opening but something still retained assembly preventing it from being taken out of fender. Once I read manual I discovered that you have to remove front bumper to release the lamp assembly!:holycrap: The worst of it would not be removing bumper but installing it back.

Front bumper is secured to frame by 8 bolts and nuts + flat washers. The manual recommends placing a piece of masking tape on the lower edges of the front fenders behind the side marker lights and between the headlamps and parking lamps, taping the comparable bumper areas and drawing horizontal and vertical crossed lines on each piece of tape (I drew crossed lines) to help placing when reinstalling bumper. The funny thing is that some little pieces of paint went with the painter tape when removed:annoyed: -There you see if a car is really well painted- (Iīll touch up it with similar paint).

Itīs necessary raising the car (I did it with a jack) to work comfortably and positioning a floor type jack so as to support bumper at outer ends. I started by removing the center 4 bolts / nuts and then I removed 2 sets in the left side (itīs difficult in the last phase, as they are not ordinary bolts but rounded head bolts squared in the head base that gets into a square hole and you can not hold head easily when square base is getting out of hole. I had to hold it by pressing head with a hammer stick; the other end against inner fender). Last nut was removed but the bolt stayed there to secure flexibly the bumper end and I did not removed the right 2 bolts / nuts.

At that point I raised the car from behind the front left wheel so bumper stayed about 1-1,5" lower supported by floor jacks and finally I could extract lamp assembly to my deep rejoice (I could remove two wasp nests built inside of the lens, fortunately empty). Still some difficulty as the little bolts -2 upper and 1 lower- securing front part of assembly did not match with my metric wrenches, so I had to use my pliers and loosening spray. Then, it started to rain and rain :hide: until night so the following weekend I could end the job doing just the reverse process and taking one of the bolts of the opposite side to secure left assembly to inner fender in a safer way.

Some pics to illustrate this book (sorry if itīs too long):

This is me fighting against evil bolts and nuts. You need a really good wrench to take them out. You need doing a good effort; while unscrewing them they get warm due to friction:
http://s4.postimage.org/k3jihkd37/IMG_0903.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhtwiz6s/full/)
image uploading (http://www.postimage.org/)

The bolts and nuts:
http://s4.postimage.org/gjxmfamvr/IMG_0902.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhvk2bok/full/)

lamp assembly out (you can see upper bolts securing front assembly):
http://s4.postimage.org/5x3pyspq1/IMG_0906.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhs8zmp0/full/)
image hosting service (http://www.postimage.org/)

Broken lens (It could not pass safety inspection):
http://s4.postimage.org/5x3ob9daq/IMG_0907.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhqlga78/full/)
image uploader (http://www.postimage.org/)

Finished job (Nobody could imagine it takes so much work):
http://s4.postimage.org/y9z4e6mim/IMG_0930.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhoxwxpg/full/)

Now Rex -thatīs my carīs name- seems happier with renewed lens :)
http://s4.postimage.org/r6r7b14l0/IMG_0931.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhnadl7o/full/)


http://s4.postimage.org/nn57xopd6/IMG_0932.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhlmu8pw/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/k3j8kca5c/IMG_0933.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2dhjzaw84/full/)
image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

I always wondered why the 1977 Cadillacs trumpeted their "vastly improved ease of service". Since owning my 69 and after reading this post, I now know. Remove the front bumper to change a freakin' directional signal lens?!? What fool designed that? If he isn't dead, he needs his engineering degree revoked!

CADforce69
06-11-11, 07:28 AM
Yeah, I think it comes from naiveté, as they assumed that this lamp assembly should be changed only when an important shock was suffered by fender and to damage this assembly, the bumper should be sensibly damaged and consequently repaired or changed. They did not thought of vandalism. I wish long life to your turn signal lights.:p

CADforce69
06-11-11, 07:32 AM
You need some penetrating oil if your bolts/nuts are getting warm when removing.

Yeah, I sprayed a good deal of loosener before attacking them. Maybe I should have done it again during unscrewing. For the reverse operation I bathed the bolts in engine oil and operation was slightly easier but not a great deal.

CADforce69
06-16-11, 06:41 PM
Last weekend I went on cleaning and restoring little things on my caddy. I changed Steering Column Tilt Adjust Lever, as chrome was damaged irreversibly, for a perfect one I bought. I also bought an interior door courtesy lens, which was missing. I took the opportunity to remove all the lenses and clean them, as they were very dirty. When they were clean, I painted again the chrome rim they had in the edge, vanished by years of heat and rain damp. I changed some burnt bulbs (dome, trunk and glovebox), even the backup bulbs but they donīt work. Another thing to check. I also washed dome light lenses. I used engine cleaner.

I cleaned and polished chrome details and sill plates on left doors also. Look is much better. I even got lighter in rear left door work (one wire was disconnected) but I did not get window switch work. Power windows work but only if operated from the driverīs panel; not from each one switch. I tried to move once and again the window blocking switch with no results.

I also started cleaning engine compartment. I started from the front end and inner fenders, as well as washer bottle and coolant overflow bottle (really dirty and containing something similar to light mud inside that went off and refilled with coolant instead). I would like to go on cleaning head covers but it will take a lot of work as they have a thick layer of grease and dirt on (above all the right hand one).

You can also see rear window frame (with important rust signs) and a nasty surprise I got when I took out the left rear carpet in the following pics:

You can see clean lenses in the outer sides and dirty in the inner (the red is the one I bought). Dome lens is already clean:
http://s4.postimage.org/x7spiaztc/IMG_0940.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bba21azo/full/)

All lenses clean prepared to be painted:
http://s4.postimage.org/j1cvbzzye/IMG_0941.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bb6qym04/full/)
gif upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Lenses painted with a silver felt tip pen:
http://s4.postimage.org/by4uxrt18/IMG_0942.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bb1sckis/full/)



Right rear door (not clean yet) Lighter missing:
http://s4.postimage.org/8eivkfdte/IMG_0943.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bb04t810/full/)
upload pngpng (http://www.postimage.org/)

http://s4.postimage.org/4uwujjm3s/IMG_0944.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bawtqj1g/full/)

Rear left door clean:
http://s4.postimage.org/by3kmq36b/IMG_0948.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1b9rhaup0/full/)
gif upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Driver door before cleaning:
http://s4.postimage.org/by87o0537/IMG_0577.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1beeikwkk/full/)

... And after cleaning. Iīm thinking of applying sand tone silicone to those cracks until I get door panels reupholstered:
http://s4.postimage.org/q4k8kpbwg/IMG_0949.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1baok1skk/full/)
wordpress image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

Some pics of the interior (you can see the front seat condition; everything will be reupholstered):
http://s4.postimage.org/4uwe06573/IMG_0951.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bagad23o/full/)
image uploading (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/fhqago29i/IMG_0950.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bajlfr38/full/)
image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Old tilt adjust lever:
http://s4.postimage.org/to5t27mpd/IMG_0953.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1babbr0mc/full/)
image uploading (http://www.postimage.org/)

Engine compartment improves little by little:
http://s4.postimage.org/to5j4zjq5/IMG_0954.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ba1eixno/full/)
gif upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Rear window frame rusted. Rear tray is covered by a piece of carpet; original one is very damaged by damp. Another thing that will be upholstered:
http://s4.postimage.org/to6cwnslw/IMG_0946.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bav676jo/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/to6b94g3u/IMG_0947.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1batinu1w/full/)

CADforce69
06-16-11, 06:56 PM
This is what I found when I took out the rear left carpet:
http://s4.postimage.org/j1kmttner/IMG_0929.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1biy8s9gk/full/)

http://s4.postimage.org/4v4z9o1jr/IMG_0928.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1bj1juyg4/full/)
free image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

I couldnīt say if this was made by some rodent, by damp from some hole in the floor or by both. Iīll have to inspect under the car. Anyway, now itīs clear that Iīll have to buy a new carpet. :LOL:

77CDV
06-17-11, 01:37 AM
Aww...a carpet angel! ;)

Stingroo
06-17-11, 07:46 AM
Whoa I love that cloth pattern! I hope you retain it after re-upholstery.

CADforce69
06-17-11, 08:23 AM
Aww...a carpet angel! ;)

I didnīt realize the supernatural dimension of the pic :lol:

CADforce69
06-17-11, 08:38 AM
Whoa I love that cloth pattern! I hope you retain it after re-upholstery.

This is an important doubt: Most people that saw the car did not like much this gold dardanelle cloth pattern... Maybe seeing it in such a bad condition contributes to this negative opinion. I was thinking of using leather with same seam pattern where the dardanelle cloth is now, and new vinyl with same color than original in the rest, but maybe leather increase budget sensibly. When I reach to the upholstering point Iīll ask SMS http://www.smsautofabrics.com/ which is the cost of the original cloth for my car (they have it in their catalog) http://www.smsautofabrics.com/product-info.php?pid=69-9812&pcl=c&ino=964 and if cost is sensibly lower maybe I decide using this cloth.

Stingroo
06-17-11, 09:14 PM
I can imagine it as it should be in my head, and I think I love it. :) It's VERY Cadillac.

77CDV
06-17-11, 10:07 PM
Dardanelle is SO late 60s/early 70s. That whole damask paisley thing just got out of hand! It does look cool, though. Daphne cloth is more understated and very pretty with its embroidered triple sunburst pattern. Both cloths will cost between $80 and $110 from SMS. Don't know what Sierra grain leather would cost, and don't want to know what ostrich grain leather costs. But leather is so boring! I would love to see this car back in its original gold someday. With the gold cloth interior, it would be a real eye popper!

CADforce69
06-27-11, 08:23 AM
If a complete Dardanelle reupholstering kit costs just $110 maybe the decision is easier to take :LOL: ... And originality is always a plus

outsider
06-27-11, 09:04 AM
really? $110 for a reupholstering kit? :O sign me up! :D

77CDV
06-27-11, 10:18 PM
Keep dreaming, boys. They charge by the square yard. Figure a few hundred dollars to redo in the correct cloth, exclusive of installation.

CADforce69
06-28-11, 10:14 AM
Hmmm... Then, price must be similar to leather. Anyway, Iīll ask for a quotation, when I reach the reupholstering step

PRdeVille
06-28-11, 12:47 PM
This car is gorgeous!!
Great job you have done so far!!
Keep us updated with the progress :)

CADforce69
06-28-11, 01:30 PM
Thanks for your kind words. The mechanic told me yesterday that next monday would change differential at last (he has a lot of work but I prefer waiting till he has some time for me, as heīs very good with these american classics). Iīll make some shots of the job to upload ;)

CADforce69
06-28-11, 01:37 PM
Thanks for your kind words. The mechanic told me yesterday that next monday would change differential at last -and if we have enough time, fix wiper installation-. He has a lot of work but I prefer waiting till he has some time for me, as heīs very good with these american classics. Iīll make some shots of the job to upload ;)

CADforce69
07-05-11, 03:19 PM
Yesterday, at last, the mechanic changed my caddyīs differential, that had a breakdown last march due to lube level was near zero when I took the car home end december, as the result of a careless maintenance. You can see more info about breakdown here: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1984-deville-fleetwood-1985/226384-differential-breakdown.html

The car had to remain stopped since then. I had to bring another differential I bought in Phoenix, from a company specialized in used cadillac parts. As soon as I received it, I took it to the mechanic to start changing the seal, as he needed a tool that he could not take to the place the car is. While attempting to put the new seal it broke and he had to order a new one, but this time everything went ok. Itīs not easy to put the new seal; you will appreciate it when you can see a pic when itīs partially shown on its place.

Finally, my friend, the mechanic had some time to go where the car is standing (53 miles from our city) and change differentials.

First step is elevate the rear end and let it lie on two jack stands, taking out fender skirts, wheels and drum covers, then you can see the axle shaft end. It had to be hit some times -not much- and finally it got out. Both of them turned well and were not damaged, but they were bathed in a kind of rusty mud, as if the axle had been submerged in water (see pics).

http://s4.postimage.org/qbq3hf70j/IMG_0959.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1igjgrnms/full/)
gif upload (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/c5a601i61/IMG_0960.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1igcum9no/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/ms3vue1b9/IMG_0961.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ig9jjko4/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/tvbmbe58x/IMG_0962.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ig4kxj6s/full/)
adult image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/fp13zfepg/IMG_0965.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ild473hg/full/)
gif upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

Next step is disassembling transmission bar and start unbolting differential assembly from the axle. Itīs just that easy in this type of differentials, used by cadillac from '65 to '69, that is in turn an evolution of previous differential. In 1970 the system changed and you have to open rear axle by the rear cover and you need some more steps some times not very pleasant.

When it was unbolted, we supported it on the jack, as it weighs 95 lbs. so we can low and carry it easily. Before getting out, something like crude oil -a small amount- got down from inside the axle. It was the remains of the degraded lube, you can see below in a pic. The thing was evidently damaged in the ring and pinion at least as you can see in these pics. Orange color shows overheating due to lack of lube. You can also note the ring cogs are really worn. Although itīs difficult seeing pinion you can see orange color in some parts of its cogs.

http://s4.postimage.org/8lstnz4tc/IMG_0967.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1iky8cz1g/full/)
upload gif (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/fp0ihfw8y/IMG_0969.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ikrm7l2c/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/fp03llruv/IMG_0971.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ikcqdgmc/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/525vkcf8z/IMG_0974.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ijxujc6c/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/8lrobjgh5/IMG_0975.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ijsvxap0/full/)
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http://s4.postimage.org/qbwe21qmc/IMG_0986.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1imu1e7ac/full/)
wordpress image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

csbuckn
07-05-11, 03:34 PM
Wow, that thing is toast. Nice work/write-up.

CADforce69
07-05-11, 04:08 PM
Now some pics of the good differential now installed on the car:

http://s4.postimage.org/8lpdmo3rw/IMG_0955.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ihi71y04/full/)
image uploading (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/ms4ukobns/IMG_0956.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ih89tv1g/full/)
png upload (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/j8oxi9pnw/IMG_0983.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1in8x8bqc/full/)
post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/c5gx41iqq/IMG_0984.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1in3yma90/full/)
post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)

In the last one you can see the seal partly colored in green, as well as the nose bumper arm bolts. Bumper arm is mounted in last place.
After putting the gasket with some sealant, the good diff. is placed on the jack and moved to its place. Then we jack it up and move it slightly towards the axle to get its holes fit in the rods, bolt it again, place axle shafts on their place hitting them a little at end of operation.

Now it`s time to refill the differential housing by the filling bolt with a good SAE 90 lube. After a year, we will change lube again to be sure axle shaft rust is totally clean. Now we put drum covers and wheels on its place and Ready to run again across the roads of Spain!

Before the breakdown we suspected that ring and pinion were damaged as we could hear a moan that became a slight squealing as speed increased. Now no noise can be heard from transmission except the sweet and subtle noise of automatic gear changing from time to time.

We drive tested the car for 6 miles and everything was ok. As environmental temperature was high (about 93šF) we took the opportunity to test the engine temperature after driving under hot temperature with a laser temp. tester. 185šF at the highest point (heads) and 150-170šF on different parts of radiator, what means that the last is cooling ok.

In the gas station I filled the tank -thatīs the worst part- so I had to pay $147 for the gas. In Spain now € 5,2 a gallon = $ 7,43 , but everybody asked me about the caddy and even taking photos with it. It looks to everyone like an aircraft carrier of the Navy, heh!

Some pics of Rex by the gas station -a place he likes-. In the last pic it seems double length than the ford escort by his side :LOL: :

http://s4.postimage.org/xf3ultrnj/IMG_0989.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1imf5k2uc/full/)
free image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/5287wr4fp/IMG_0990.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1ima6y1d0/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)

CADforce69
07-05-11, 04:21 PM
Just 2 pics of the good differential with all the work finished ;) :

http://s4.postimage.org/tvi1umqfd/IMG_0988.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1imk464bo/full/)
wordpress image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/tvi6t8rwz/IMG_0987.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1imp2s5t0/full/)
wordpress image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

CADforce69
07-05-11, 04:24 PM
Wow, that thing is toast. Nice work/write-up.

Thank you, csbuckn :) I had to spend good money and time but now I see itīs worth it, as the car is much more silent -and reliable- now, as a cadillac is supposed to be.

Stingroo
07-05-11, 05:33 PM
Ha. Rex looks like he could eat that Escort for breakfast.

DouglasJRizzo
07-06-11, 09:14 PM
Gorgeous.

Cadillacboy
07-08-11, 05:41 PM
I believe your ride should be longer than our last gen Big Bodies as well lol :D

I like that shot a lot , I mean your ride vs Ford Escort

CADforce69
07-08-11, 06:44 PM
Yeah, no make -except for body transformation shops- has made longer bodies ever. Fleetwoods and 75 series were even longer.
When I made the shot I didnīt notice the Escort; I just cared for my caddy but when I watched it quietly, it seemed curious to me. Escorts are not the smallest cars we use to see here. If it had been a Smart instead of an Escort, the poor thing would have looked like a key ring :LOL:

Thank you all of you for your comments ;)

outsider
07-08-11, 07:58 PM
i thought lincoln had some longer cars.

CADforce69
07-09-11, 07:19 AM
i thought lincoln had some longer cars.

Really? Which model / year?

outsider
07-09-11, 12:20 PM
oh i don't know for sure I just know that some of those lincolns have noses that look to go on for miles...

looking on wikipedia I see the 75-76 continental was 232.9 inches, 77-79 was 233.
the longest devilles appear to be 74-76 with 230.7 inches.

CBodyFan
07-09-11, 12:54 PM
The 1975-76 Fleetwood Seventy-Five was the longest post-war standard production factory built car ever. Keep in mind, however, that a lot of the extra length added to all cars during the early to mid 70s was due to federal bumper standards which caused manufacturers to mount the bumpers further away from the body on shock-absorber type devices rather than an actual increase in body (sheet-metal) length.

Sad thing is thanks to a failure to find new sources of fuel over the last 40 years we will probably never see cars as beautiful as even the early down-sized Cadillacs. As GM's second head of styling, Bill Mitchell, once said "styling a small car is like tailoring for a dwarf". The lines are just not there. And SUVs, well they are nothing more than two-box utility wagons, trucks, and will never look as good as a full-size Cadillac regardless of how big and bulky they make them.

CADforce69
07-09-11, 01:10 PM
oh i don't know for sure I just know that some of those lincolns have noses that look to go on for miles...

looking on wikipedia I see the 75-76 continental was 232.9 inches, 77-79 was 233.
the longest devilles appear to be 74-76 with 230.7 inches.

Thatīs an interesting piece of data. Thanks for sharing it :)

CADforce69
07-09-11, 01:15 PM
The 1975-76 Fleetwood Seventy-Five was the longest post-war standard production factory built car ever. Keep in mind, however, that a lot of the extra length added to all cars during the early to mid 70s was due to federal bumper standards which caused manufacturers to mount the bumpers further away from the body on shock-absorber type devices rather than an actual increase in body (sheet-metal) length.

Thatīs right. Another interesting piece of data


As GM's second head of styling, Bill Mitchell, once said "styling a small car is like tailoring for a dwarf".

:LMAO: I like that quotation and totally agree.

CADforce69
07-11-11, 11:56 AM
Yesterday I went for a ride in my caddy with my girl. No more than 10 miles but the car run great and silent -apart from exhaust leak noise when I have to increase speed quickly or going a long uphill. Just wanted a quiet ride so I did not want to squeeze engine power. Besides, roads by the place he lives are narrow and when we pass another car in the opposite way I have to be careful, as the 80 in. wide make it somewhat difficult and I have to get used to the car dimensions in these roads.

Previously I had the hose inside the coolant bottle changed as original one was broken and cracked; too short so its end was near "maximum" mark instead of 1/2 inch lower than "minimum" mark. As the engine started and the car was reaching normal temperature, it drank at least 2 liters of coolant so I had to refill 2 times until cooling circuit stabilized so liquid was always above minimum. Although it was a hot day again, no trace of overheating as first ride after differential change. This week I want to take it to my friend, the mechanic to redo wipers electrical circuit as they never worked since I bought the car. I want to install a temperature gauge to control engine temp too.

Cadillacboy
07-13-11, 12:00 PM
Hey, these sound great , you should also consider of installing ampermeter / voltmeter . My jag does it have and it's very cool item imo

CADforce69
07-13-11, 03:37 PM
Finding a vintage bracket with temp. gage, voltmeter and pressure oil gage, as intragration did would be great. Now I have an individual bracket for the temp. gage to be installed, but I think that if I go on adding gages and I find a proper bracket Iīll be able to substitute individual brackets for a triple one. I did not want to wait anymore as we are in summer and I want to control engine temp. as I donīt trust very much on tell tale lights. As service manual says, water temp should light when engine temp. is 264šF, what I think is too late and engine block temp. glows when temperature is 280š so you should be burning head gaskets. Who knows how theyīll work in a 42 year old carelessly maintained car.

As Iīll have to bring the caddy to the city, Iīll try to flush the cooling circuit with the help of a friend and take it to a shop he knows having one of the last reserves of R12 gas to refill the A/C circuit and see if A/C works ok. At least compressor engages when I select automatic position in climate control but air coming from vents is not cool. I hope itīs just gas level is too low as itīs evident that circuit was never refilled. If I had time enough Iīd take Rex to a exhaust shop the mechanic recommended me to get him examined and get a quote of the fixing. I have to take the opportunity that the car should travel 55 miles to Madrid so I will spend $70 on gas at the local price, but Iīm glad to be on the road again after more than 3 months in the dry dock.

CADforce69
07-16-11, 09:30 AM
Hi guys,

last thursday I took Rex to the mechanic to fix and check a list of things. He asked me to leave it with him as that day he had an important back ache and he could not start working at that moment. The car behaved very well during the 55 mile trip and driving was delightful. Some people turning their heads when looking at Rex and making videos in the highway :LOL: In the way I stopped at one upholster shop that made some good job for me and for a friend in the past to show him the car for a quote, that he told me would give me next week. He told me he has made some classic cars -some months ago a classic Oldsmobile convertible for which he had to make even the canvas top-. The quote would be using vinyl for door panels and seat sides and synthetic leather for the seat back and base following the present pattern. I also asked him to quote the option of bringing the original cloth myself so no synthetic leather cost. Synt. leather has the advantage that is easy to clean and maintain and the look is very similar to true leather; original cloth has the disadvantage that itīs difficult to clean, so I would be in a constant fear when fixings and interventions would be needed.

Today I had a quote from SMS Autofabric. Reupholstering would need 3 1/2 yards @89/yard would make $311. If we add shipping to Madrid, total would be $396,50.
I asked another reputed shop for quote, that told me it would cost about $1,760 (all material included) and I still have to check another one.

These are the points I have asked the mechanic to check:

-Fixing wipers electric installation
-Installing temp. gauge
-A/C - Heater blower only works at minimum speed. Try making the rest of speeds work.
-Check if e-brake release is not working due to a failure in gear selector control connection or there is a vacuum valve failure so I have to look for another e-brake assembly. Emergency release lever is broken anyway.
-Check backup lights not working (maybe problem is related with the above one as they are operated by a selector gear connection).
-Change head cover gaskets (danger in moving wires over passenger side cover as wiring is not very reliable in this car)
-Trying to fix exhaust leak on passenger side as one bolt is broken and another one at least is jammed so he would try applying a special metallic paste for these purposes.

If he had time enough:

-Power windows only can be operated from driver control. When I move window lock out switch nothing changes. I checked switch connection and apparently they are ok.
-Gas smell in the passenger compartment when strong acceleration needed.

Probably heīll call me tomorrow (Sunday) to give me some news and see if I can go on to flush cooling system, charging A/C gas and visit another upholstering and exhaust shop.

Iīve been checking how A/C blower works at 5 speeds in the shop manual -I passed a copy to the mechanic of the whole manual- and itīs complicate as different circuits are involved for different speeds implying a relay, A/C control panel and power servo (A remanufactured one was installed). If Iīm fortunate, it would be the relayīs fault -as itīs easy and cheap to get- but if itīs control panel it would be worse, as remanufactured ones are expensive ($300+shipping) and a junkyard one could have similar problem (no guarantee).

Iīll keep you posted :)

CADforce69
07-21-11, 04:47 PM
Last monday I took the caddy. My friend, the mechanic could fix the following points:

-Wipers: Electric installation was ok but wires had different colors than in FSM. The problem was in the solenoid inside the wiper motor. It caused most times wipers could not stop so previous owners had added a lever under the dash to cut current in that case. If lever is on and you switch wipers on they work (not always but most of times). Iīll buy a remanufactured motor to avoid these problems and remove it. At first I thought the levers were installed to operate wipers but they could not do the work by themselves. One is to stop wipers if they donīt want to and the other... No idea so it has been removed.

-Temp. gauge: Sensor plate has been installed near the engine outlet hose (to radiator) and gauge under dash (see pics below). On highway driving temperature stays at 80šC (176šF) and city driving 90šC (194šF).

-E-brake: Vacuum valve and automatic release is working but hoses were unplugged as e-brake can not be engaged again after released due to spring in really bad condition. Iīll look for another e-brake assembly from a 1965-70 model, as they are equivalent. I suspected valve was working as when releasing brake manually by the remains of the lever I could hear a sigh from the valve. Thatīs great as this is the part of the assembly that fails more frequently so I just need all the rest is working.

-Head cover gaskets: Changed, and head covers mildly cleaned. Thatīs great as they had a thick film of oil mixed with smoke particles from exhaust leak strongly stuck to covers. Now, I just have to end the cleaning but now I can see that a good painting for both is necessary, as paint is missing on some parts.

- Power windows: lock out switch can be released now (points inside needed adjustment) and all windows can be operated from their door control (one of them had contacts rusted).

Back up lights and A/C blower medium and high speeds will have to await to the next time I take him the car as he needed more time to check this but the good news is that apparently the rest of the A/C system works ok as Iīll explain below. The paste for the exhaust leak was totally hardened as the container had to be opened for a previous work and when this happens it doesnīt last much time available so heīll order another one for next time we meet.

I also flushed cooling system with the help of another friend. Coolant / water mixture was not very dirty but some small solid particles were seen removed when applying water pressure with a hose into radiator. Previously a special radiator cleaner was introduced in the system for more than 30 min. while engine was running. Water was applied for a long time after only clean water without foam came out of the radiator. We refilled circuit with water and took the car to my small parking space in the downtown until next morning (fortunately nobody complained), when we flushed the system again and refilled it with a high quality coolant (50%), that always provides additional protection against overheating.

After cooling system was refilled I went to my friendīs friend shop to refill A/C with R12 gas (He bought a lot of it before it was banned) so now A/C works. When I select temperature it regulates cool / hot air to get the desired temperature. In Automatic position it even directs hot air to the feet and cool air to the dash vents. Defrost and fog position works also directing air to windshield. The only thing that have to be fixed is blower speed as now only minimum constant speed works. BTW, when compressor connects sometimes I can hear an intermittent squeak; in that case I move control lever and try to engage it again, and this time I donīt hear such a sound. It happens more frequently if car is moving. When it works without noise I feel a slight humming coming from compressor that can be noticed inside the passenger compartment but I think these A/C systems should be more silent. Could it be compressor needing lubrication?

Then, I went to another upholsterer shop to ask for a quote that heīll give me next week. So far 2 upholsterers have told me the same: $3,500-3,800 not including taxes, and finally I went to a exhaust shop recommended by a friend. They are used to work with American classics and are fans of these cars so they enjoyed looking the caddy. Theyīll have to change center line (as it has a hole and is starting to crumble) and exhaust end including resonator (the last polished aluminum) for $500, what is a fair price here. The rest can be kept.

After this I took Rex home, what allowed me to enjoy driving for 72 miles. First week of august Iīm planning taking him to the exhaust shop to get exhaust fixed.

But vintage car lover life is never easy: I mentioned that when attempting strong acceleration I smell of gas in the passenger compartment and I feel the car has not the power a 375 HP 472 engine should. It even trembles subtly. Now that I can drive the caddy once itīs tuned up, Iīm beginning to test it without fear of causing a breakdown to a car that hardly moved for years. My friend, who helped me with flushing and who is also a mechanic (but he is no specialist in American cars), says itīs like some cylinder was failing at these moments. Itīs curious as engine sounds very well at idle and even strongly accelerating, but not moving. Next Sunday Iīll check sparks to see if one or more are dirty with unburned gas and check car again in strong acceleration. Probably I open a new thread concerning this issue with a video to ask opinion. The most similar 8 cyl. car I drove before was a '67 Oldsmobile 98. When you pressed resolutely accelerator I felt stuck to the seat back and for some reason this car is not showing all the power he should have in those moments; the rest of time driving is delightful.

http://s1.postimage.org/o992lya52/IMG_1057.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zlgb3thg/full/)
Temp. gauge under dash

http://s1.postimage.org/kpn877wf4/IMG_1056.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zljm6ih0/full/)
Temp. gauge in the dark. Itīs constantly illuminated when ignition is on.

http://s1.postimage.org/o99avn0mi/IMG_1055.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zloksjyc/full/)
Rex arriving home after his adventures

http://s1.postimage.org/o99e6ppmc/IMG_1054.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zlrvv8xw/full/)
A stop at a gas station in the sunset

http://s1.postimage.org/yw3an7mor/IMG_1053.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zlv6xxxg/full/)
Yes, I have to wash it again

http://s1.postimage.org/a2ttxmsof/IMG_1052.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zlyi0mx0/full/)
Parked in the downtown. Most people passing by stared at him

http://s1.postimage.org/o99o3xsjd/IMG_1051.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/2zm1t3bwk/full/)
If I was standing by the car there was always someone asking me about the car and telling me itīs impressing. I even talked with a Canadian gent in his late sixties, who remembered his youth when he saw the caddy.


upload pngpng (http://www.postimage.org/)

mjs182004
07-21-11, 06:23 PM
That's a cool Caddy!

Cadillacboy
07-22-11, 11:46 AM
Amazing shot,s thanks , it's a great pleasure to view such a beauty

CADforce69
07-22-11, 03:07 PM
Thank you, guys. Itīs been a pleasure for me driving it after months stopped due to the differential breakdown, just the day everything was ready to run with it. I hope he can show soon all the splendor of his good old days.

PRdeVille
07-25-11, 03:22 PM
Hey,

R12 is hard to come by, but not impossible.
It is actually for sale in the USA, yet a copy of Refrigeration Technician Certification has to be supplied (haven't done this route).

The other simple way would be to buy R12 cans in the Dominican Republic, as they still manufacture the gas, and sell it without restrictions.

If you're interested in that second option, let me know... I can help you out. :)

CADforce69
07-25-11, 04:16 PM
My friendīs friend bought a great amount of R12 when he knew distribution was going to be banned. He still has some amount but not much. Thanks for the info. In Spain now R12 is more and more difficult to find too.

Now my main problem with A/C system is that compressor squeaks noticeably everytime I connect it (automatic, fog or ice). Someone told me it can be worn bearings; maybe I have to take it to repair. Has someone experienced anything similar?

CBodyFan
07-25-11, 05:00 PM
The other simple way would be to buy R12 cans in the Dominican Republic, as they still manufacture the gas, and sell it without restrictions.

If you're interested in that second option, let me know... I can help you out. :)

Freon (R12) is illegal to import into the United States.

sven914
07-25-11, 06:32 PM
^Right... Not only will you face heavy fines and possible prison sentences, but the stuff produced in the Dominican (or Russia, or China, or any other place) does not meet any industry standard; it will destroy your system.

I am not familiar with Spanish law, but you might want to check into "Freeze-12" (there might be a different variation available to your country). It is a blend of refrigerant that mixes with R-12, works with all R-12 components, and cools just as adequately.

Here in the United States, auto recycling yards are required to recover all refrigerant. If Spain has a similar law, then you should be able to find some reclaimed R-12 at the recyclers. But if it is anything like here, you will need some sort of refrigerant certification to purchase them; if you don't have a certification maybe you could get a friend with a garage (that does A/C Service) to pick up the bottles.

CADforce69
07-26-11, 02:06 PM
I know there is a R-12 substitute that is also sold here but Iīve heard it doesnīt work very well. I could not tell why. recycled R-12 is a very interesting idea. Iīll check if that way is possible here.

68 Deville Rag
07-26-11, 03:54 PM
Just caught up on the whole project... Great car! Can't wait to see how you finish it off.

I sure wish my car was running, I miss driving it.

PRdeVille
07-26-11, 04:16 PM
Freon is DuPont's trademark.

R-12 is presently manufactured in the USA.
I haven't heard or seen bad stuff happening from Dominican Republic R-12.

More power to you.

===
As to the squeaking compressor:
Are you 100% sure you have the right belt?
Two things:
First, that belt has to be tight like a solid pole.
Second, there are two belts with the correct length... yet one is "slimmer".
This slim one (thinner) goes deeper into the V-grove, and squeals.
The fatter belt rests more "outside" of the V-grove, and works as it should.

Let us know how it goes! :)

sven914
07-26-11, 04:35 PM
^Under the Montreal Protocol (damn Canadians) the production of CFC-12, was banned in 1994 and all manufacturing of R-12, in the United States, ceased in 1996.

CADforce69
07-26-11, 06:30 PM
Freon is DuPont's trademark.

R-12 is presently manufactured in the USA.
I haven't heard or seen bad stuff happening from Dominican Republic R-12.

More power to you.

===
As to the squeaking compressor:
Are you 100% sure you have the right belt?
Two things:
First, that belt has to be tight like a solid pole.
Second, there are two belts with the correct length... yet one is "slimmer".
This slim one (thinner) goes deeper into the V-grove, and squeals.
The fatter belt rests more "outside" of the V-grove, and works as it should.

Let us know how it goes! :)

This is something I thought as a possible cause but it seemed to me compressor oiling would be more likely. Iīll have to check this issue as first step is discarding easy problem sources. :D

CADforce69
07-26-11, 06:33 PM
As to the squeaking compressor:
Are you 100% sure you have the right belt?
Two things:
First, that belt has to be tight like a solid pole.
Second, there are two belts with the correct length... yet one is "slimmer".
This slim one (thinner) goes deeper into the V-grove, and squeals.
The fatter belt rests more "outside" of the V-grove, and works as it should.

Let us know how it goes! :)

This is something I thought as a possible cause but it seemed to me compressor oiling would be more likely. Iīll have to check this issue, as first step is discarding easy problem sources. As a matter of fact, now I remember the first time the car did this noise was turning the wheels totally with A/C on (Same belt moves also power steering pump):D Thanks for the reminder.

CADforce69
07-26-11, 07:08 PM
Just caught up on the whole project... Great car! Can't wait to see how you finish it off.

I sure wish my car was running, I miss driving it.

I hope soon I take it to get the exhaust fixed and reupholster the interior, what will improve look a lot. After that, get fixed parking brake, backup lights, horn in the steering wheel, A/C system and gearbox gaskets and seals changed, what will close another stage of the process to start details like fixing radio (or installing a modern hidden one), changing exterior mirror for an original one or installing '70 rear bumper moldings to hide the hole made for truck aftermarket tail lights (back up lights inside moldings will be used for European yellow turn lights), and cure lower front fender rotting.

Fortunately, I have driven the car from time to time through the fixing and restoring process. This cheers you up a lot; getting the car stopped for a long time would be difficult to stand for me; I passed through it with my other classic car, but itīs something that a classic car owner must be prepared to face. Last Sunday I met a man that owned a gorgeus '76 Eldorado convertible. The car passed through a complete restoration process but as he explained to me, he did it by stages so that he could enjoy driving his caddy for some months after every stage was finished. He told me that this way he never got discouraged in spite of the whole process lasted 12 years.

CADforce69
07-27-11, 12:48 PM
This is something I thought as a possible cause but it seemed to me compressor oiling would be more likely. Iīll have to check this issue, as first step is discarding easy problem sources. As a matter of fact, now I remember the first time the car did this noise was turning the wheels totally with A/C on (Same belt moves also power steering pump):D Thanks for the reminder.

Iīve just checked the 2 A/C - Power steering belts I ordered and got installed last february (less than 200 miles driven since then): They are 0.38 x 59.5". FSM says measures are 0.38 x 59.0" for both, but length difference should be compensated by pump bracket adjuster slot screw. Maybe I have to check tension as I think new belts use to need readjustment after some hundreds of miles.

CADforce69
08-04-11, 07:09 PM
Last Monday I took Rex to the exhaust shop the mechanic recommended me. Got changed central pipe -which had more than one hole and was somewhat crushed by hits suffered over its life- and redone final section that was missing. We decided leave muffler and curve over rear axle, as they seemed in a reasonably good condition. They did a really good job, as new line is closer to the floor panel (before, I often hit exhaust when climbing steep ramps, once even in a uneven surface road at 55 mph). Final section was done copying original one from a pic I showed them.

New sections were fixed by clamps -not welded- to ease further changes or fixings and they are made of stainless steel, so they should last forever (or at least for all of my life). At the point where central section joined with the one coming from manifolds there was some bottleneck so they cut it to improve joint. Iīve noticed an improvement in the car sound; even the manifold leak sounds less.

They love American classics and have done several jobs for this type of cars -not very common here in Spain- and love them. (The guy running the shop has a '97 Camaro) and have made even some parts difficult to find in their lathe.

When I took the car last Tuesday I went to one of one of the upholsterers that gave me a quote -this one had to be adjusted as they could not see the car-. They closed the price and I left the caddy yesterday in their shop. Another friend -also a mechanic- highly recommended me this shop, as they are one of the best in Madrid and they use to do every kind of classic cars. They even have made a Rolls and a Lincoln. They will have to do everything except for headliner, even redo most of the front bench, as part of the frame is broken. Finally I decided to use leather for seats and synthetic leather for door panels, seat sides and all of the rest, keeping original colors and pattern. Original cloth was not very popular for almost everyone who saw the car and is more fragile and difficult to clean as possibly I hire the car in the future for weddings or movie filming to recover part of the restoring expenses. The man owning and running the shop offered me to check if radio can be fixed and change speakers (theyīre toast) as his brother has an auto-sound shop nearby. I think this is a good opportunity as probably the car will be there for a month or more. They are more than sixty years old so probably the brother is familiar with these old radios. If FM worked again I could use a MP3 player that can be heard by the carīs speakers tuned by a frequency of the radio. Letīs see.

Below you can see some pics I took of the exhaust job when the car was still on the elevator. Sorry for the poor quality; they were made with my phone camera:

http://s1.postimage.org/fs52a5fv8/Imagen016.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)

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mpride
08-04-11, 07:26 PM
I'm kinda new to this site and to the idea of purcashing an older Cadillac but I sure have enjoyed reading this thread. Very nice car and great to see the work you've done! Keep'em coming.

CADforce69
08-04-11, 07:44 PM
Thanks :) In Spain they are very expensive; normally prices above $ 20,000 even when you have to fix many things. This cost me $ 8,500; it needed some work but most of paint, engine and trans were ok. You are lucky as in the US you can find one in really good condition for $ 13-14,000. They are incredible machines that make you travel in time and space. I consider restoring one of them a privilege.

sven914
08-04-11, 10:14 PM
It's weird to see a shiny exhaust system; almost like it should have been left out in the rain for a week to get a proper coating of age.

CADforce69
08-05-11, 06:25 AM
At least is much more sober than a double exhaust like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUbZyKsYakk With time it will get a yellowish color mixed with some dust but the shop guy told me that I could clean and treat it with a metal polisher whenever I wanted and it would look just like new. Anyway, when the car is on the ground, exhaust is totally invisible; you must get under the car to see even the final section. That was the original idea when the car was designed.

I considered a double exhaust line (same design as this) but I discarded it as that meant much more money and I still have to expend a high sum in the upholstery + get all seals and gaskets of gearbox changed + fix lower front fenders...

77CDV
08-05-11, 10:31 PM
I see you elected to keep the resonator. Excellent choice!

sven914
08-06-11, 12:30 AM
At least is much more sober than a double exhaust like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUbZyKsYakk With time it will get a yellowish color mixed with some dust but the shop guy told me that I could clean and treat it with a metal polisher whenever I wanted and it would look just like new. Anyway, when the car is on the ground, exhaust is totally invisible; you must get under the car to see even the final section. That was the original idea when the car was designed.

I considered a double exhaust line (same design as this) but I discarded it as that meant much more money and I still have to expend a high sum in the upholstery + get all seals and gaskets of gearbox changed + fix lower front fenders...

You'd have to be pretty fanatical to polish an exhaust pipe (though I wouldn't put it past some people). At least it will look good in the meantime.

CADforce69
08-06-11, 06:10 AM
@ 77CDV: Thanks, I like preserving original design unless it means a relevant drawback :)

@ sven914: Iīm not such a fanatic of showroom condition as to polish a part you never see unless you put the car on an elevator :lol:

Stingroo
08-06-11, 12:20 PM
You'd have to be pretty fanatical to polish an exhaust pipe (though I wouldn't put it past some people). At least it will look good in the meantime.

I kid you not, there is a guy on the wagon forum who polished his exhaust pipes. He went into detail about what he did to accomplish it, too.

CADforce69
08-06-11, 01:43 PM
I kid you not, there is a guy on the wagon forum who polished his exhaust pipes. He went into detail about what he did to accomplish it, too.

He must place mirrors under his car at meetings :lol:

77CDV
08-06-11, 02:31 PM
I kid you not, there is a guy on the wagon forum who polished his exhaust pipes. He went into detail about what he did to accomplish it, too.

Someone has way too much time on his hands.

Stingroo
08-06-11, 10:01 PM
He's the most anal retentive person I have ever heard of or seen. He once detailed his engine bay because someone mentioned it was a little dirty after posting a pic of a mod.

Cool guy, but a little obsessive :p

Stingroo
08-06-11, 10:01 PM
CADForce, have you found yourself an American car club in Spain yet? I'd be interested to see what other people had over there. :)

CADforce69
08-07-11, 01:14 PM
In fact Iīve just contacted one: The M.A.C. (Madrid American Cars) Club :) The mechanic I take most frequently my caddy belongs to it. Some weeks ago I was talking with the Chairman. They are planning a Drive-in cinema meeting for all who can take a classic american, but I will have to take my Dodge as the caddy is being re-upholstered, but they meet the third Sunday of the month in Villaviciosa -a town in the outskirts of Madrid. These pics were taken some weeks ago:

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The car of the first pics is Felixīs '76 Eldorado. He brought the car from New York 12 years ago. Engine and Trans. were ok. but interior was awful. He has been restoring since then every screw of the car and now seeing it is a delight. He has lots of details remindig Elvis. Heīs in love with his car. No pics of his wife or sons in his wallet. Only his caddyīs pic :LOL:

ail45
08-07-11, 02:23 PM
Grats, man gorgeous car.

and that convertible in ivory/ offwhite is fkn beautiful.

sven914
08-07-11, 10:59 PM
I love that '60 Polara...

CADforce69
08-08-11, 02:42 PM
@ail45: Thank you. It will improve. Youīll see ;) Talking with the '76 Eldoīs owner is exciting. He can tell you passionately all the restoration process of his car. He never had it stopped for more than 3 months as he needed to drive it once a resto stage was over.

@sven914: The Polara in the pic has its body and interior totally restored. It was registered in Oviedo (Spain) on December 1969. The owner has also a totally restored '60 Impala hardtop; could not ask him about the car story.

CADforce69
08-19-11, 09:33 PM
Last Tuesday I visited the upholstery shop to see how much they had progressed with my caddy. I could not believe it; they had almost finished -just installing a door panel to be done- so it only took them 1,5 weeks. I asked them to have it ready for my brotherīs wedding -sept, 10- but never thought it was ready so soon. Everything was done very professionally as my friend told me when he recommended them to me. Finally for the agreed price, they also upholstered the whole trunk, did a cover for the spare wheel and made new individual carpets keyed with the main one.

Door panels are very well restored and seams were done in the least visible way. Shape has been kept almost totally. Most of the seats had to be reconstructed -even the base frame, partly broken-. Finally we selected leather for the seats (flax color) and synthetic leather for the rest (light brown color) but patterns were kept, even buttons on the back, as are part of the interior personality of the car. Carpet color is also very similar in color and texture (even smoother). Plastic in the back of the front seats and between doors were covered with the same material than door panels as it was disintegrating. Belts (which were very dirty) were cleaned by introducing them into a special cleaner for a day. Headliners and sun visors were kept but were cleaned as much as possible. Headliner can break if you push it strongly, as it happened to me (fortunately the little rip is behind a sun visor).

The bad news were that radio, tested by the shop ownerīs brother -auto-sound professional- could not be fixed, as I expected. Not even the AM-FM selector worked.

Now the car has improved a lot esthetically and Iīm very happy when I see interior like new when driving. Now some pics (You may compare with the first ones I uploaded :)):

This is the only door I could see without its panel:
http://s2.postimage.org/41vfz81d5/IMG_1088.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/i9i9eyas/full/)
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Finishing the work:
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Rear window frame was also covered with synthetic leather; the lower part had a lot of rust but body had only superficial rust at that area, as they told me. New rear tray was done with new speakers and new wire under carpet to the front.
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77CDV
08-19-11, 09:39 PM
Wow! That looks really good! They did a great job.

CADforce69
08-19-11, 09:41 PM
Some final pics of the interior. As you can see, even door edges were covered:

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post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)

No pics of the trunk yet as it was full of stuff :LOL: I hope post some pics soon.

I received this week new parking brake assembly and '70 rear bumper moldings with backup lamps included, that I will use as turn lights, but I have to study how to do it right. ;)

mpride
08-19-11, 09:44 PM
Thats fantastic. It looks like the interior of a new car or maybe better than new. You should be very happy with the results. Keep it up and give us more pics.

CADforce69
08-19-11, 09:50 PM
Wow! That looks really good! They did a great job.

Iīm very happy with the results. Price just a little above other shopsī budgets but itīs really worth it. They do many classic cars every year and some customer (compulsive collector) has brought them more than 20 cars.

77CDV
08-19-11, 09:53 PM
That's the kind of place you want to go. :thumbsup:

CADforce69
08-19-11, 09:56 PM
Thats fantastic. It looks like the interior of a new car or maybe better than new. You should be very happy with the results. Keep it up and give us more pics.

Thanks. Apart from the improvement in look, even driving is more comfortable, as front bench was sunken before resto. Soon trunk pics :) Yesterday I went to a Classic American cars meeting at an open air cinema; soon Iīll upload them in the "Post a pic of your RWD caddy" thread ;)

outsider
08-19-11, 10:20 PM
great job man...you're really sparing no expense to get that beast looking and running tip top! wish i had the capital to have it done professionally but instead i'm doing it myself :)

77CDV
08-19-11, 10:42 PM
great job man...you're really sparing no expense to get that beast looking and running tip top! wish i had the capital to have it done professionally but instead i'm doing it myself :)

And doing an outstanding job, sir! :)

CADforce69
08-20-11, 08:28 AM
great job man...you're really sparing no expense to get that beast looking and running tip top! wish i had the capital to have it done professionally but instead i'm doing it myself :)

Thanks :) As I got the car at a low price (for a Europe located caddy), it left me a fairly good budget margin to leave the car in a good condition without expending more than its local value. A good upholstery -if the rest of the car is acceptable- increases the car value noticeably so I did not want to save too much with this part of resto... But I know that a good part of the decision of buying this car is sentimental and maybe at the end of the restoration process I will have to swallow my words :LOL:

outsider, you are doing a great job considering what you have spent restoring your car. In addition, you have done everything by yourself; itīs something to be proud. In my case only little things were done by myself as I have limited experience on mechanics and no one who could help me, so I had to pay professionals.

CADforce69
08-20-11, 08:31 AM
Double post

csbuckn
08-20-11, 10:23 AM
That interior really is amazing. One of the best jobs I've seen.

CADforce69
08-20-11, 10:36 AM
That interior really is amazing. One of the best jobs I've seen.

Thanx :) We have good professionals here... and other not so good. Iīm happy to have chosen the right one; It took me some time before taking the decision.

Cadillacboy
08-20-11, 11:22 AM
WOW, fantastic job , kudos to you in every way
:highfive:

CADforce69
08-20-11, 01:13 PM
Thanx :) Tomorrow I will go to a monthly meeting of classic cars near my city; now Iīm starting to enjoy the car after so many fixings and restorings... Though there is still many things to do... Iīll keep you posted.

68 Deville Rag
08-20-11, 03:06 PM
Holy crap, the interior turned out amazing!! It's pretty remarkable what new interior does to improve the look of the car. (Just like a great haircut)

What's next to get done??

CADforce69
08-20-11, 03:41 PM
Holy crap, the interior turned out amazing!! It's pretty remarkable what new interior does to improve the look of the car. (Just like a great haircut)

What's next to get done??

Thanks for the comment :) I totally agree. Thatīs why I finally took the car to one of the best upholstery shops in my city... But these guys donīt go crazy with price; just the right amount for a good professional job.

Next things to do: Changing parking brake (Iīve just received another one working), changing wiper motor, fixing back up lights and changing seals and gaskets of transmission as the car has a noticeable leak presumably by front seal. Then changing truck tail lights on rear bumper for '70 rear bumper moldings, with back up lights inserted in them changed to the outer part of bumper so they work as orange turn lights changing white bulb for an orange one to comply with European regulations, but keeping most of originality. I have them with me and Iīm planning how to adapt them to my bumper.

68 Deville Rag
08-22-11, 06:08 PM
Sounds like you've got enough to keep you busy for a bit!

CADforce69
08-22-11, 07:47 PM
Forgot to get working A/C blower; now it works only at minimum speed... And a '70 steering wheel to be able to use horn on the wheel; now itīs in a bracket under dash:crybaby: :) For next year, new front spring coils, redo bottom front fenders (somewhat rotten), taking back original exterior mirror, a new hidden sound system -a sober one; donīt need 40,000 Watts.- and who knows what else the car will ask for :D

As I told you, here are some pics of trunk re-upholstered. Water entered in the past in it (presumably through vinyl roof groove around rear window) so most of carpet was rotten, though fortunately floor was ok. Most of side cardboard stayed in its place. The upholsterer made new carpet in 2 pieces, covered cardboard and rest of trunk sides with fabric keyed with carpet and made a cover for the spare wheel:

http://s4.postimage.org/n5734nwj7/IMG_1165.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1vjgttfvo/full/)
post image wordpress (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/jll23s4tl/IMG_1166.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1vjdiqqw4/full/)
upload pngpng (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/g1yzfd0m7/IMG_1167.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1vj8k4pes/full/)
upload pngpng (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/8yqz14tp1/IMG_1168.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1vj3linxg/full/)
image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/g1yr5oa4r/IMG_1169.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1vj0afyxw/full/)
upload gif (http://www.postimage.org/)

outsider
08-22-11, 08:28 PM
nice...my trunk is barely there. I'm afraid to even take all the parts/tools/junk out of it to see if there is even any floor left. haha.

CADforce69
08-23-11, 06:06 AM
nice...my trunk is barely there. I'm afraid to even take all the parts/tools/junk out of it to see if there is even any floor left. haha.

There must be a rather firm floor there, or it should have collapsed to ground with all the weight you have there :LOL:

Stingroo
08-23-11, 08:13 AM
That trunk looks great!

You've definitely got one talented upholstery shop there....

CADforce69
08-23-11, 04:37 PM
Thanx :) cardboard covering hinges was missing but I prefer it so, as IMO it waists room in trunk but if I had given them a pic of the original cardboard Iīm sure they would have done it. :p

CADforce69
09-02-11, 11:04 AM
As to the squeaking compressor:
Are you 100% sure you have the right belt?
Two things:
First, that belt has to be tight like a solid pole.
Second, there are two belts with the correct length... yet one is "slimmer".
This slim one (thinner) goes deeper into the V-grove, and squeals.
The fatter belt rests more "outside" of the V-grove, and works as it should.

Let us know how it goes! :)

Well, finally I bought a set of wrenches in inches and, with the help of a friend, we adjusted compressor/power steering belt tension. Previously, I tried to do it with my metric wrench set but no way as there is little room to move wrench and the head of one of the bolts was somewhat worn. The squeal is gone :) Now I can test quietly cooling power of system. I think air out of A/C outlets on dash should be cooler at minimum temp. -Iīve read that this system could be chilling even when outside temperature was extremely high-. The A/C guy charged system at 0.750 Kgs. (1.65 lbs.). He was afraid some part of an old circuit could break under more pressure -He had just had already a bad experience-. Yesterday I read on the FSM the circuit charge is 4 lbs.

What do you think: Is adding more pressure up to 4 lbs. dangerous for an old system that probably has never been recharged in 41 years?

When valve was opened some remaining gas was still there (not much; the system could not produce cool air before, but at least circuit was not totally empty).

77CDV
09-02-11, 10:27 PM
First, do a leak test of the system to be sure it can hold a charge. Then charge it to factory spec. Recheck pressure weekly for about a month. If it holds, you're good to go.

CADforce69
09-03-11, 05:06 AM
First, do a leak test of the system to be sure it can hold a charge. Then charge it to factory spec. Recheck pressure weekly for about a month. If it holds, you're good to go.

Thanks. I think Iīll get more gas added and previously check if the 1.65 lbs are still there. After all, I think the element that would most probably burst is the dehydrator receiver bottle, and itīs easily replaceable.

CADforce69
09-07-11, 07:22 PM
Yesterday I finally received my '70 steering wheel. Needs restoring but price was fair for its condition: $59.95. One in really good condition can reach more than $ 250 and they are more and more difficult to find. Seller did not send it outside U.S. but outsider helped me receiving the wheel at home and reshipping it to Spain. Thanks again, man! ;)

http://s4.postimage.org/j6wcctslb/IMG_1202.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1gunrsen8/full/)
image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/j6wapag3j/IMG_1203.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1gum4925g/full/)
free image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/fnabby0vz/IMG_1205.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1gukgppno/full/)
upload images (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s4.postimage.org/c3obyllof/IMG_1206.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1guit6d5w/full/)
image host (http://www.postimage.org/)

Center pad seems in rather good condition. Just crest missing but one is on the way. First step will be taking out the remains of veneer -now just semi-transparent plastic-, refilling the many cracks in the black ring, painting it in glossy black and then sending it to a wood restorer to refill the groove with real wood. After that, Weīll change original wheel for this and finally connect horn so we can suppress this wacky horn button under dash:gah:

csbuckn
09-07-11, 09:46 PM
I see why you wanted it so bad, nice wheel.

CADforce69
09-08-11, 06:18 AM
Thanks :) It will take some work but I think finally it will be worth it. I want to imitate '69 wood insert, keyed with dash instead of the '70 one. Iīll post some pics of the process.

outsider
09-08-11, 07:44 AM
glad the wheel made it there ok. looks like a fun restoration process :D can't wait to see pics

CADforce69
09-08-11, 01:20 PM
Yeah, Iīd like to start today. It promises tons of fun filling all the cracks :lol:

Mark 78 Coupe
09-12-11, 12:14 AM
It has been fun watching your progress. I can't imagine how much patience you have to restore an old Cadillac outside of the US! By the way, how much is gas where you are? In south Florida, today regular was $3.53.

CADforce69
09-12-11, 12:14 PM
Thanks so much :) Looking for parts is enormously easier in the Internet era, just somewhat more expensive due to shipping cost -but quite cheaper than parts for other classics, like the German ones-. Finding someone who dare to repair these cars is not easy to find here but I did, and in addition Internet -and specially this forum- helps a lot to get information about my caddy. Thereīs still a good deal of fixings to do but when I park the car in the street, everyone is amazed looking at it and asking a lot of questions. Last Saturday, I took it to my brotherīs wedding and it became the star of the event :lol:

Gas is the worst part of it: Regular is $ 1.93 a liter, so for a gallon it would be $ 7.30 (70% are taxes). When I fill the tank, I use to pay $ 135-140. Itīs hard but no complain as Iīm really happy driving this beast :D

Stingroo
09-12-11, 05:52 PM
Jesus, $7.30 a gallon?

I will never again complain about $3.40

CADforce69
09-12-11, 06:20 PM
Jesus, $7.30 a gallon?

I will never again complain about $3.40

In addition average salary in Spain is $ 30,745 a year while in U.S. is $ 46,300. We are also below European average ($ 38,700). Maybe for that reason our regular gas prices are under the European average ($ 8.00 a gallon)

Stingroo
09-12-11, 07:21 PM
Note to self: do not move to Spain.

CADforce69
09-12-11, 07:48 PM
Well, at least if you retire with a good pension is a splendid place to live. Thatīs what many aged people from U.K., Germany, Sweden, France... think :p

Spillin
09-15-11, 08:29 AM
Gorgeous car! This thread made me take my 79 to the mechanic as she too has been sitting alone for years :( and there are some things i dont know how to fix

CADforce69
09-15-11, 08:41 AM
Gorgeous car! This thread made me take my 79 to the mechanic as she too has been sitting alone for years :( and there are some things i dont know how to fix

Thanx :) I prefer taking the car to a specialist for important things and do it by myself for details. Maybe if I had a place to work near home I would have done more things by myself. If you have such a place home and get a Factory Service Manual and a good set of tools you may save some money. You can always get good support from this forum. ;) When a car has been so many years stopped you must check everything that can deteriorate with time (pay special attention to steering and brakes for your safety). If you have no great experience in mechanics itīs a good idea having a trustworthy professional check all relevant points of the car so you have an exact idea of what you will need to do and writing down a list of priorities to start your restoration process.

CADforce69
09-16-11, 04:28 PM
Some update on the steering wheel restoration: Finally I took plastic cover out from black plastic base. It was a pain as the semi-transparent cover has a "T" section, with the T leg stuck on the base. Finally I ripped off the cover though a part of the vertical part of it kept in the groove. I cut it as much as possible to prevent it hindering wood mounting on cover housing. This is a pic of the last part of the ripping process:

http://s2.postimage.org/qinrp1rbh/IMG_1207.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pe7oe7z8/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)

This is a detail of the groove on black plastic base where wood should be mounted. Iīll try to get the same kind than the one on '69 wheel but real stuff instead of imitation:

http://s2.postimage.org/fvtq9xsoz/IMG_1209.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdzephic/full/)
image host (http://www.postimage.org/)

This is a detail of one little part of the plastic cover I could take out without ripping it. I could take it out easily as black plastic was somewhat rotten:

http://s2.postimage.org/fvt4ryaao/IMG_1240.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pddwpz38/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)

Next stage of process was filling cracks with a repairing paste (Pattex). It serves for everything: plastic, wood, metal, ceramics... It consists of 2 components. When you mix both it starts to harden and in 5 minutes itīs totally hard. First you fill the crack or the gap, wait until it hardens enough to sand it with a sandpaper. Itīs better waiting 1/2 hour at least or maybe you can take out the paste. For small cracks or superficial holes you must be specially careful as itīs easier this happens. These pics show all cracks filled:

http://s2.postimage.org/8slrj8y9l/IMG_1234.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdw3msis/full/)
free image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s2.postimage.org/qinb5oafc/IMG_1236.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdr50r1g/full/)
upload png (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s2.postimage.org/cc7gzdake/IMG_1237.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdnty21w/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/)
http://s2.postimage.org/u290lsmne/IMG_1238.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdivc0kk/full/)
image upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

The paste wouldnīt work with superficial cracks. I hope when I paint the rim in glossy black they are covered (or almost). This stuff tends to crumble due to sun exposure. Next week I want to take it to the wood restorer as it is. When wood is mounted and clear coat applied Iīll paint rim in black. Otherwise, paint could easily be damaged. This is one of the weak points of resto. Original plastic was noticeably more resistant to scratches. Another weak point is paste could fall with a hit though when paint is applied this will be less probable. Letīs see how the wood restorer can work on the groove. I suppose sheīll have to apply some filling under the wood sheet.

I bought a crest for the wheel on Ebay but when I received points of the crown were broken. The seller was -As thank God most sellers- as honest as to refund me all I paid so I rebuilt it patiently with contact glue and painted crown points. The result is not bad (could be better if white paint was not half dry): :annoyed:

http://s3.postimage.org/vic9qkmc5/IMG_1233.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/35gs04090/full/)
adult image host (http://www.postimage.org/)

http://s2.postimage.org/fvt1gvlau/IMG_1241.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/1pdalna3o/full/)
upload images (http://www.postimage.org/)

I thought the crest was made of metal but found that itīs plastic. I think the original is metallic; my crest was advertised as coming from a '68 :hmm: Anyway, I think itīs not too bad to be a present :)

Thatīs all for now. Iīve been working on the '70 rear bumper moldings I received, which I want to use to substitute the truck tail lights the car has now on its bumper. Iīll post some info and pics in the next days. ;)

Stingroo
09-16-11, 04:34 PM
Wow, that filler stuff for the wheel is definitely interesting....

CBodyFan
09-16-11, 04:48 PM
The bulk of the price of gas in the US, Canada, Europe and Japan is taxes.

CADforce69
09-16-11, 07:03 PM
Wow, that filler stuff for the wheel is definitely interesting....
Yeah, I think itīs not for sale in U.S. but Iīm sure there must be something equivalent. Itīs a bar. One component in the center and the other around. You can cut a slice and mix it with your hands. I was not sure at first but now Iīm happy with the results :)

CADforce69
09-16-11, 07:08 PM
The bulk of the price of gas in the US, Canada, Europe and Japan is taxes.

Yes, you can take the price in U.S. and compare it with the one in these countries. The difference is practically taxes.:yup:

CADforce69
10-19-11, 05:59 PM
Well, after looking for appropriate materials and asking other experts, the wood restorer has come to the conclusion that itīs not possible filling the rim groove with a wood sheet, as the groove is not deep enough to keep it stuck to it. She honestly told me that most likely, wood would get detached from the bakelite or black plastic of the rim and crack the clear coat on the wood, so the results in the long run would not be worth the work this would take and the price to pay, so I will have to put plan B into practice: Filling the groove with my magic paste and after painting the rim, sticking a self-adhesive vinyl wood veneer (like the one I used for the instrument panel), imitating the original one.

At last, the mechanic had some time to change seals and gaskets of the transmission -Thank goodness-. Oil leak takes replacing cardboards under the car every 15 day and I often find oil under cardboards, on the parking space floor... And of course, adding transmission oil constantly. Today I took him the caddy so he will take the opportunity to install a new wiper/washer motor, change parking brake assembly for another used in good condition (no new stuff available), fix back-up lights, checking blower speed control circuit (I have provided him with a new blower relay, as I think itīs the key for making all speeds of the blower work), and checking the A/C compressor. After tightening the belt, we got it working again but when I reach more than 55 mph, it skids, sometimes making noise and always smelling of burnt rubber. I think we will end up by buying a new one. I doubt repairing the existing one is economical.

He discovered the cause of the gas smell when accelerating: The fuel tank cap gasket is broken so when tank level is over 1/2, gas was pushed backwards to the filler, in a low position, behind the license plate, so some gas or gas vapor leaked to the tank and from the tank to the passenger compartment. Iīll buy a new tank cap; the old one seems really old and sometimes itīs difficult to open.

One friend passed me a scanned image of the original sticker of the dealer where this car was bought when new. There is still some slight trace of it on the rear window. I have printed it on a quality paper to create a new sticker that will be in the place of the original one:

http://s3.postimage.org/nkuj8tmxt/Blitz_Hnos_1200_002.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)
tiff upload (http://www.postimage.org/)

This dealer kept existing not long ago, but in their last times they didnīt sell GM anymore, but KIA and Ssangyong :nono: Now there is a supermarket in this address.

These last 2 months I have had the caddy in 2 parking spaces near home, what has allowed me to enjoy it most weekends, visiting classic car meetings and causing everyoneīs amazement :) The most I drive it, the best it runs...

Stingroo
10-20-11, 02:10 AM
Awesome to hear of some more progress with this thread. I was wondering where you got off to....

CADforce69
10-20-11, 06:19 AM
Awesome to hear of some more progress with this thread. I was wondering where you got off to....

Thanx, basically waiting for the mechanic to take the car and the wood restorer to do her job :lol: In the meanwhile, I looked for some more details for the car: 2 cigarette lighters (original ones missing) and spark wire separators ;)

Talking with people in the classic car meetings, now I know of 2 good body shops specialized in classic cars that can repair the front fender bottoms and other rusting points of the car where the caddy would be welcome.

CADforce69
10-25-11, 08:47 PM
Well, I picked up my caddy after the mechanic changed tranny seals and gaskets. He saw the input shaft? (in Spanish we say "eje primario") was partially damaged by the old front seal, as the result of rubber hardening with time and, above all, long periods sat. Thatīs why leak could not be solved totally but now is far smaller than before, when I had to add 1 qt every 15 days. Iīll observe it in the next weeks. If leak grew bigger he says I should think of changing torque converter... Heīs done a lot of trannies but I donīt know much about them.

Carburetor was tuned again, timing corrected, as it was still too advanced, and a leak in the hose connecting distributor with carb fixed. Now engine runs much better :) There is a very slight trembling when accelerating at middle throttle but he says itīs due to carburetor; to correct this I should get a new one, but this does not worry me too much, as engine is ok and driving is great.

New wiper/washer motor installed but it fails due to the switch (At first it worked great but soon it stopped working), so now I have to look for a new one. Iīve located one on ebay.

The parking brake assy was changed. At least, manual release works now but automatic release can not do due to neutral safety reverse light switch is broken in two, so I have ordered one. Not easy to find as this part was made just for 69-72 caddies. The same for the back-up lights. The wire was cut; it was fixed so it would work if this switch was ok. I hope both problems are fixed with a new switch.

New blower relay was installed but the speeds of the climate control blower still donīt work except for the minimum speed. I think weīll have to check wiring diagram for this section but Iīll need help as automotive electricity is not one of my strong points.

As for the A/C compressor, Iīll have to get another one, as this may be seized up at any moment. Fortunately, cool weather is here to stay for 6 months at least. New upper and lower radiator hoses were also installed.

Iīll try to upload some pics when I have some time; today I was in a hurry. Slow progress but progress at least. I hope taking him the car again when I have these parts mentioned above + the restored steering wheel. Iīve filled the groove with paste and almost totally sanded it to equal the rim surface. Then, I will paint it and stick on the auto-adhesive wood veneer Iīve cut imitating original one.

New gas cap ordered... No more gas smell in the passenger compartment :D http://www.ebay.com/itm/330628534211?item=330628534211&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:ES:1123&vxp=mtr

CADforce69
10-29-11, 01:04 PM
Finished the steering wheel restoration. I started by drawing a pattern on the self-adhesive wood veneer vinyl, the same I used to restore instrument panel, using the rim of the wheel.

http://s7.postimage.org/jqpsieb1n/IMG_1339.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/zc742cmzr/full/)
http://s7.postimage.org/fbcfa94yz/IMG_1338.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gdmlssns7/full/)


The vinyl is the same I used for the instrument panel restoration. Itīs about 2 mm. wider than original so I corrected it when I cut it.

http://s7.postimage.org/a12elueej/IMG_1340.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/52ew7balj/full/)


Then, I started filling the groove where original insert were housed with the paste mentioned in the above posts to fill the rim cracks. I 30 minutes, itīs ready to sand. As it hardens in just 5 minutes you have to fill by sections of 10 cm. long as much, to mold it before itīs hard. Then, youīll do the final adaptation to the original shape by sanding the paste. This is the final results, ready to start painting:

http://s7.postimage.org/nags5bk2z/IMG_1336.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q4jxirm93/full/)
hosting images (http://www.postimage.org/) http://s7.postimage.org/q39zpckff/IMG_1337.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/56drkomef/full/)


This is the famous paste:

http://s7.postimage.org/b97woictn/IMG_1346.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/jepymo12f/full/)
http://s7.postimage.org/uw6be4h2j/IMG_1347.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/5q5d7afs7/full/)

This is after painting the wheel with a small can of glossy black paint. but 2 cans would not any harm:

http://s7.postimage.org/ln8qhqxkb/IMG_1345.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/sdp7r6kpz/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/8180p7fxn/IMG_1344.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/cacqrdj6v/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/z6u6170x7/IMG_1343.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/s3malkvhj/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/gkw00pdnv/IMG_1342.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/pso8hekpz/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/s1blq86ln/IMG_1341.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/5pdswu7hj/full/)

The results are not perfect due to micro-cracks canīt be filled with this paste and can paint pressure is getting worse as paint level is getting low but is fairly good, much better than before.

CADforce69
10-29-11, 01:19 PM
We wait 24 hours to be sure paint is totally dry and then we stick the vinyl. I cut a small section of the protecting paper and fit the vinyl rim in the correct position. Then I took out paper progressively as I stick it slightly on the rim trying to keep it centered. I had no problem in unsticking the vinyl when necessary. At first I was afraid some paint remained stuck to vinyl but no problem. Finally, when I was finishing the process I found a wrinkle where I started the process. Thatīs due to finally the vinyl rim had a slightly bigger diameter than original and I was trying to keep it following the original position. No problem: I cut the vinyl in the wrinkle and stick one end on the other. You can not notice it unless you know. ;) Finally, you can stick all the vinyl surface on the rim. These images are dedicated to outsider ;) :

http://s7.postimage.org/9ah2pl7jf/IMG_1350.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/hfz4nqvs7/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/b7dsu5y7f/IMG_1349.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/m6z05romf/full/)

http://s7.postimage.org/vjzl9vsdn/IMG_1348.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/6qq1989d3/full/)

...And finally you will have a wheel like new. (You can compare with the first images). People will not realize itīs restored unless they look it very close. If you have a 70 caddy, you will have to look for a walnut veneer vinyl. I used this kind, as is practically the same than the one used for 69.

Now, I hope the horn buttons on the center pad work as they should... Anyone knows how they work, and how to make the connections?

http://s1.postimage.org/tz7dqbfv3/IMG_1351.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/800z33z0r/full/)

http://s1.postimage.org/cjht2d6a7/IMG_1354.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/bh7mjtngr/full/)


jpg image hosting (http://www.postimage.org/)

CBodyFan
10-29-11, 03:42 PM
Excellent! Do you plan on clearcoating the wheel to keep the edges of the woodgrain from lifting?

77CDV
10-29-11, 09:59 PM
The plug with the spring goes into a receptor inside the wheel. When you mount the wheel to the steering column, insert the spring plug in its hole and twist clockwise IIRC to lock it in, then screw on the horn pad. The horns should work, assuming the horns themselves are good and the horn ring inside the steering wheel pad is intact. When I first got my 69, I didn't know about the rim blow feature, so I was pressing on the center pad and thinking the horns were dead. Once I figured out the missing horn ring was the culprit, I grabbed a 70 wheel (just like yours) out of a junkyard, swapped it on, and the horns worked perfectly. Unlike you, I just put a leather wrap over the very fractured 70 wheel, since it's only temporary until I have the 69 wheel professionally restored, rim blow and all. Your's came out looking really good! :)

outsider
10-30-11, 10:58 AM
that wheel came out amazing! I need to do this to my 87! where did you get the wood grain vinyl?!

CADforce69
10-30-11, 04:35 PM
Excellent! Do you plan on clearcoating the wheel to keep the edges of the woodgrain from lifting?

My intention is leaving it as is. Vinyl expands and contracts noticeably with temperature changes, so clearcoat might crack. If vinyl got damaged (I hope it lasts at least 2 years) I would make another vinyl rim.

CADforce69
10-30-11, 04:47 PM
The plug with the spring goes into a receptor inside the wheel. When you mount the wheel to the steering column, insert the spring plug in its hole and twist clockwise IIRC to lock it in, then screw on the horn pad. The horns should work, assuming the horns themselves are good and the horn ring inside the steering wheel pad is intact. When I first got my 69, I didn't know about the rim blow feature, so I was pressing on the center pad and thinking the horns were dead. Once I figured out the missing horn ring was the culprit, I grabbed a 70 wheel (just like yours) out of a junkyard, swapped it on, and the horns worked perfectly. Unlike you, I just put a leather wrap over the very fractured 70 wheel, since it's only temporary until I have the 69 wheel professionally restored, rim blow and all. Your's came out looking really good! :)

Thanks :) I hope itīs easy connecting original wheel wiring to the horn wiring, jumping the adaptation someone made to the underdash button. I hope you get your original wheel restored exactly as it was when new and tell us your experience ;)

CADforce69
10-30-11, 05:08 PM
that wheel came out amazing! I need to do this to my 87! where did you get the wood grain vinyl?!

Thanx. I bought it in a supermarket. Here, in Spain you cand find it also in a stationary store or do-it-yourself stores. Itīs often used here to line cupboard shelves.

Iīve just found this US website, where they sell high quality wood grain vinyl film: http://www.rvinyl.com/woodgrain.htm

outsider
10-30-11, 08:04 PM
awesome man, thanks!

CADforce69
11-07-11, 07:43 PM
Some update: During the last 2 weeks the caddy was parked on my "short" parking space near home (4,77 m. long -0,94 m. of the car out of its space- :LOL: ) there was a noticeable tranny oil leak in spite all seals and gaskets were changed, but I have checked oil level and was 0.4 inches above maximum so itīs not so strange oil excess is getting out. There is an oil puddle at the left of the filling tube. Iīll have to wait until level is under Max. mark and see if there is still some leak. Damage noticed by the mechanic was in the torque converter, the place where the seal is housed. Letīs hope there is practically no leak after oil excess disappears.

New gas cap is installed and in the last ride I didnīt notice any gas smell :) Engine keeps running smooth. Wiper motor bought from Rockauto stopped working. The wiper control is not responsible for the breakdown as itīs sending electric power, so I had to claim a new one under warranty. Neutral-reverse switch (to make back-up lights and automatic parking brake release work) and restored steering wheel are ready to install, as soon as new wiper motor is with me. I need these things working to pass annual Safety Inspection (ITV) for December, 10.

Good news: I found a big parking space for Rex in a storing company building just 8 miles from home for just 59 € / month. Itīs a bargain for that price in Madrid. Every time I went to my girlfriendīs mum country house to bring it I was spending 70 € in fuel (my daily driver + the caddy). The big advantage is that my caddy will be closer to me and Iīll be able to drive and look after it. :) The car seems small in that huge place :D :

http://s8.postimage.org/7bkd1whx1/IMAG0013.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/6m1kpjhdd/full/)
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http://s8.postimage.org/9y4gwkyid/IMAG0009.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/nrstlmr3l/full/)
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http://s8.postimage.org/c58pki3sl/IMAG0010.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/wpdjizjjl/full/)
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http://s12.postimage.org/6cm2zzhq5/Imagen021.jpg (http://www.postimage.org/)
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I was invited to a Classic car meeting that will take place next Sunday at a town 160 miles from home. Iīm planning to take Rex there. Iīm taking a ride this week and put it to the test before. It has been raining for the last weeks but now it seems the weather is clearing up.

jayoldschool
11-07-11, 08:02 PM
The trans leak is likely from the dipstick tube seal.

That new parking spot is big enough for a workbench and toolbox!

CADforce69
11-07-11, 08:17 PM
The trans leak is likely from the dipstick tube seal.

I think it should have been changed too but Iīll ask the mechanic. I forgot to say the puddle is on the engine, just behind the intake manifold... And more or less the same place on the floor too.


That new parking spot is big enough for a workbench and toolbox!

I wish I was allowed to do that! but the renting contract does not allow me to do any maintenance work in the car... Anyway, when I have to do some serious work I can always go back to the country house for some days.

CADforce69
11-21-11, 08:23 PM
... And finally the steering wheel was changed. My mechanic had to restore original wiring of the horn so that it could be played from the center of the wheel pad. Contacts were too rusted so it can not be played from the buttons. To fix that, the pad rubber should be torn off and most probably it could not be fitted back again, so he could sand the part under the center of the pad. Now it works when you push firmly crest rim... Better than before. Now, I donīt have to look away from the road when I want to play the horn, and the look is better too :) :

http://s8.postimage.org/3swgtesv9/IMG_1373.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/byeirkh41/full/)
image host (http://postimage.org/)
http://s8.postimage.org/qlfh98fqd/IMG_1375.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/49hofugm9/full/)
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http://s8.postimage.org/yo926taxx/IMG_1377.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ba12uvt0h/full/)
image host (http://postimage.org/)
Now, some additional cleaning and it will look like new ;)

Defective wiper/washer motor was changed again and wiper control too. Now it seems to work ok except high speed, that is the same than med. but at some moment, it seemed not to receive current from control. Then it worked again. Weīll have to check wiring.

Neutral safety reverse light switch was changed for another working used one. Now, back-up lights work, as well as automatic parking brake release :) and... ĄSurprise! Now I can start the car just by using the key... No start button needed anymore. It was installed due to the broken neutral safety switch, that should be in a position different to "P", preventing starter to be turned on as it should be. Now the buttons and lever collection in the under-dash is gone; just the temperature gauge stays there.

Some pics of the "new" neutral safety switch and the wiper control:

http://s12.postimage.org/4lnhbect9/IMG_1356.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/kjw71j715/full/)

http://s12.postimage.org/j695jyx5p/IMG_1355.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ns59sbiop/full/)

and the engine compartment with the new wiper motor and blower relay:

http://s8.postimage.org/6ych5vm3p/IMG_1379.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/fglxa7sm9/full/)

Someday, Iīll go on cleaning and detailing this.

Recently I noticed an engine oil leak, a constant drip when engine is warm. It comes from the puddle behind the intake manifold. As the mechanic pointed out, it comes from the oil pressure sender. Heīll get a new one to replace it and letīs see if leak is over. Transmission oil leak seems to be less as level is getting closer to the max. (after the overfill).

When oil leak is solved the car will have to pass the yearly safety and environmental inspection (Letīs cross our fingers :p)

Forgot uploading pics of the new e-brake I got from the Phonix junkyard after a good wire brushing:

http://s7.postimage.org/wth1xr7jf/IMG_1144.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/6xxbek5pj/full/)
image hosting gif (http://postimage.org/)
http://s8.postimage.org/uta9hzh5x/IMG_1143.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/600phby5d/full/)
image hosting jpeg (http://postimage.org/)

77CDV
11-22-11, 01:19 AM
Keep up the good work! :)

CADforce69
11-22-11, 09:09 AM
Thanks! :)

For 2012 I have more projects: New front suspension coils, fix rotten low front fenders, new radio with external appearance close to original... And taking out definitely rear truck tail lights. They were added long ago just because European regulations made compulsory yellow turning lights in 1970. I have bought a set of '70 rear bumper moldings I have restored too, including back-up lights. Iīm planning transform these lights into turning lights, connecting the turning light wires and changing white bulb for an orange one, and this way the hole made to house those horrible truck tail lights will be covered. I have made a Photoshop image of the results I want:

Before:

http://s9.postimage.org/xn8jkgqzz/DSCF2206.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/npxireje3/full/)
upload images (http://postimage.org/)

... And after:

http://s9.postimage.org/v3cwqd3fz/Rex_molduras_lineas.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4v1s0zjcb/full/)
image hosting jpeg (http://postimage.org/) click on the pic for a larger image

I know they are not intended for a 69 but this way I will solve the yellow lights problem decently and I wonīt have to buy a new rear bumper... And after all, the center section of 69 bumper is the same than the 70 model... It could well be a solution Cadillac would have provided if required. The other option was using the 69 back-up lights as turning lights, changing the wire and the white bulb for an orange one... But the car would not have any back-up lights and I donīt think a Cadillac without this element is a correct solution. Moving a car of this size in reverse requires a strong white warning light.

77CDV
11-22-11, 12:58 PM
I definitely like the after pic a whole lot more. :)

CADforce69
11-22-11, 05:09 PM
I definitely like the after pic a whole lot more. :)

Thanx! Iīll post the real "after" pic but that will be for February at least, when weather begins to be better. The most critical point is that Iīll have to remove the rear bumper as there is no room behind to play with the wires and the bolts Iīll use to hold the moldings.

outsider
11-22-11, 05:21 PM
Sounds like a good idea as opposed to replacing the rear bumper (which would be expensive...probably more so for you with international shipping!)

can't wait to see the results.

CADforce69
11-22-11, 06:22 PM
Sounds like a good idea as opposed to replacing the rear bumper (which would be expensive...probably more so for you with international shipping!)

can't wait to see the results.

Thatīs the main reason. Iīm eager to do it as it will improve a lot the rear view of the car :D but first I have to solve oil leak and pass inspection... And another year to nearly finish restoration.

CADforce69
12-07-11, 08:14 PM
Oil pressure sender changed :) The plastic (or bakelite) part was cracked. Engine oil leak seems to be solved. In addition Starter drive was changed as in cold starts it slipped at first try, -used to work at second- so itīs better not taking the risk to be left stranded. The bad news is that transmission is still leaking. Finally it reached minimum mark, so I will have to change torque converter, that is damaged apparently by old seal. :( The mechanic told me he could order one using the transport from U.S. he uses for him and his friends so at least I will save a good amount on shipping. This Friday I will take Rex to his first yearly inspection since itīs mine. Wish me good luck :D

77CDV
12-07-11, 09:48 PM
Unless the inspector is a complete philistine, I'm sure Rex will pass with flying colors.

CADforce69
12-08-11, 07:17 AM
Unless the inspector is a complete philistine, I'm sure Rex will pass with flying colors.

Thanks:), In fact I am trying to be sure that only the best inspector tests Rex :D. I donīt want any philistine inspecting my caddy :p

outsider
12-08-11, 07:58 AM
good luck with the inspection. I'm sure he'll do fine even with the strict inspections over there.

CADforce69
12-08-11, 01:49 PM
good luck with the inspection. I'm sure he'll do fine even with the strict inspections over there.

Thanks, man:),

there are some moments the wipers donīt work; Last time I moved a bit the wires and connections and it worked again. On the other hand, the previous owner made the official data sheet (original papers were missing) with 205/75r15 front tires and L78r15 (original bias ply tires more than 40 years old) rear. As the 205/75r15 were new I thought the most logical and economical option was substituting the dangerously old ply tires for another 205/75 pair, although equivalence with radial tires is 235/75r15, to have all tires with the same measure. If the inspector is strict at this point I can have troubles. Another critical point is CO emissions but in the end we can play with the mixture screws to get a lean mix if necessary.

Tomorrow I will tell you the results.

CADforce69
12-08-11, 02:56 PM
BTW, today I remembered to take a pic of my caddyīs body name plate, looking for the VIN plate to show tomorrow to inspector:

http://s8.postimage.org/g7afankqd/Imagen000.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
adult image hosting (http://postimage.org/)

Sorry for the poor quality due to bad light and bad phone camera, but you can appreciate the codes that shows what I supposed:

BODY STYLE: 69 68349 Hardtop Sedan Deville

TR: 344 Gold Delphine Cloth with Leather. (Here I have a doubt:I thought it was Dardanelle gold but according to automotive mileposts there was no Gold Dardanelle) No seat type so I think itīs the standard one.

BODY: No letters indicating assembly plant; just sequence number of the body: 37231

PAINT: 44 (Shalimar Gold Metallic) K (Black vinyl top). Now itīs something like Athenian blue metallic and vinyl disappeared, but I like the car this way; it seems more impressive to me :).

Has anyone any more information about assembly plant and seat type?

77CDV
12-08-11, 10:51 PM
All 1969 Cadillacs were assembled at the Clark St. plant in Detroit. Not until the mid-1970s did Cadillacs begin to be assembled in other plants, like Linden, NJ, and South Gate, CA.

Your VIN plate should be clearly visible through the windshield, on the driver's side of the car at the base of the windshield. Rex's VIN should start with 9 B, followed by the six digit build sequence number.


Trim 344 is the standard front bench seat with Gold Dardanelle cloth with Gold Antique leather bolsters (per the 1969 salesman's data book).

outsider
12-09-11, 08:40 AM
the vin plate on my 69 is badly rusted and I had a very hard time to read it. I had to get a small wire brush down in there and scrape some rust off, then blow it off with air before I could read. It didn't look like the usual vin tags you see today, it was just a little metal plate in the same spot the vin plate usually is. because of this, I didn't think it was the vin plate. For a long time I thought the vin plate was missing.

HOpe this helps

CADforce69
12-09-11, 08:30 PM
Thanks, 77CDV and outsider for your information :). I had already found the VIN plate but, like outsiderīs car itīs difficult to read due to rust; itīs easier with a torch, crossing the light beam in different directions. It begins by B 9 and matches with the official data sheet.

Rex passed inspection, so we have another year to enjoy running free :D A friend told me that a friend of him worked at an inspection station, so he came with me and some issues were solved friendly. Wipers were working 1 hour before but just for inspection failed to work :mad: Playing with the wires, I discovered that when I pushed the wiper wire socket (not the pump) to the car exterior it worked, so I think I have located the intermittent failure. Another issue was VIN number. According to present Spanish regulations about vehicle identification, this number must be engraved on the car body; the plate did not convince him so I explained that the other place where they could check VIN was at the back of engine, behind intake manifold, but that did not serve either... For this time, he let it pass but next time I will have to engrave VIN on some part of the car body, maybe near body name plate. The owner of a '65 Polara, living in Spain too, told me that he had to rivet a plate on the inside of the driver door opening for a similar reason.

This friend, who is also a mechanic, knows another old mechanic. He worked for many years at a Renault workshop but the owner had always cadillacs and he was in charge of the maintenance and repair of the boss caddy. He said that he could take a look at the problem with the A/C heater blower speeds that donīt work, as the mechanic that has helped me with the caddy so far told me this is a difficult issue for him, as cadillac A/C & heating electrical is not his strongest point. Iīll call him next week.

To celebrate Rexīs first inspection pass I went with the caddy to pick up my girl when she came out of work and have a drink with her. Maybe next Sunday weīll go at a classic car meeting we have never went to before 20 miles from home.

Stingroo
12-09-11, 11:35 PM
Glad to hear of Rex's clean bill of motoring health. :)

77CDV
12-10-11, 01:30 AM
Oddly, prior to 1969 I believe, the VIN was on a plate on the driver's door. There is one other place on the car to find the VIN: the front frame horn on the passenger side. For your purpose, though, I'd just have the VIN engraved on the cowl tag that you posted earlier.

CADforce69
12-10-11, 07:32 AM
There is one other place on the car to find the VIN: the front frame horn on the passenger side. For your purpose, though, I'd just have the VIN engraved on the cowl tag that you posted earlier.

Thatīs a good info; I didnīt know that, as the FSM donīt mention it but that place must be difficult to check. I also think that the best option will be engraving the VIN on the cowl tag. In fact, there was a moment when the inspector thought the VIN was there but I explained to him that he could find all the info about the car there except for the VIN.

----------


Glad to hear of Rex's clean bill of motoring health. :)

Thanks :), after a year, I think Rex is fixed and running ok regarding all fundamental issues so he could go wherever I wanted to (as long as I have enough funds to pay the gas:D), but now I remember the Beatles song "With a little help of my friends" :LOL:

CADforce69
12-23-11, 08:05 PM
A new addition to finish the steering wheel detailing: A new chromed crest (the previous one had no chrome) and a wreath provided by sven914:

http://s13.postimage.org/vg19qyetz/IMG_1433.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4i7cp7u6r/full/)

http://s13.postimage.org/w6tzwqh7b/IMG_1423.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/dr9izc32r/full/)


hosting images (http://postimage.org/)

I know my caddy is a deVille and was not fitted originally with this trim but it looks much classier so, IMO. You can compare with this previous pic: ;)

http://s8.postimage.org/qlfh98fqd/IMG_1375.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/49hofugm9/full/)

outsider
12-26-11, 08:11 PM
wow that wheel came out nice! wanna do mine next? lol,

CADforce69
12-27-11, 06:36 AM
Thanx, man! :) Maybe I start a new business of wheel restoring :D

Iīm sure it wonīt be difficult for you restoring your wheel after reading my post... It just takes some time ;)

CADforce69
03-05-12, 08:24 PM
Some update on the last improvements made on "Rex" :) Santa brought me a modern radio adapted to a long list of classic cars -among them, the '69 caddy- It arrived with some delay but once here, itīs worth the wait:

http://s14.postimage.org/4p2ouy06l/IMG_1440.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4p2ouy06l/) http://s14.postimage.org/u94z1dlkd/IMG_1439.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/u94z1dlkd/) http://s14.postimage.org/7lppv860d/IMG_1438.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/7lppv860d/) http://s14.postimage.org/jtyssgodp/IMG_1435.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/jtyssgodp/)

When itīs off, the screen is like an old radio dial; when itīs on, it shows the letters/numbers describing the station or song played... A CD Charger can be added (not planned by the moment), it has a USB and AUX input, so you can plug a Walkman, discman, MP3 or USB pen drive. Both inputs are located at the end of a wire that can be hidden. In this case, theyīve been attached to the temp. gauge. Everything needed -even a wiring diagram stuck on the radio- for the installation is included and the wires are perfectly labeled. Instructions are very easy to follow and a flash drive USB memory is included with some music recorded to test the player.


I took it to my friend the mechanic, who had to solve two problems: Front speakers (Rear ones were new, installed when the car was reupholstered) were literally disintegrating; the system should work with 4 speakers to avoid some circuit can be burned out, as thatīs the way the radio was designed. On the other hand, the new radio had a wire for the automatic antenna (supposed to go up or down when itīs turned on or off) but the original radio had a button to raise the antenna and another one to lower it, so this wire could not be adapted to the existing relay. I bought a pair of 3.5" speakers (original diameter) with more than enough power and he got a 2 position control lever for the antenna. Some additional struggle, as the new speaker is taller than the original one; no problem with the right one but the left speaker had not enough bottom space due to the air outlets, so it had to be moved 0.5" to the left-back. No problem as 80% of its surface matches with the original grid, so there are no practical consequences on the look or the sound.

These are the front speakers, very damaged by sun and dampness suffered by the car for a number of years in the open, and the original radio:

http://s14.postimage.org/gkfs89awd/IMG_1504.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gkfs89awd/) http://s14.postimage.org/3likizfjh/IMG_1502.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3likizfjh/) http://s14.postimage.org/ugo0k5759/IMG_1503.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ugo0k5759/)

Itīs huge and weights a lot compared with the new one. An autosound technician checked it but he says it could not be repaired. It turned on but no sound could be heard after the initial crack. You couldnīt change AM to FM. Too bad as it should have been a good equipment when the car was made (Itīs a Delco/Wonderbar), with an amplifier included, stereo with a tunning light... But the new radio sounds awesome. Tunes very well; itīs wonderful hearing your favorite music you can take in a flash memory. I had prepared a recopilation of '60s songs. :D

... And thatīs the look once installed: You can see it with dial off and on:

http://s14.postimage.org/hk633yq25/IMG_1505.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/hk633yq25/) http://s14.postimage.org/bupujnjvx/IMG_1506.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/bupujnjvx/) http://s14.postimage.org/z7nw25zzh/IMG_1507.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/z7nw25zzh/)

The antenna control is at the right of the additional temp. gauge and the USB/AUX wire ends tied to the gauge, though they can be freed to get more length for plugging some bigger device. Iīve added 2 wood veneer discs on the buttons, same stuff than the one I used to renew the dash and the steering wheel insert, to give it a closer appearance than the original radio. Not exact but very similar. When itīs off very few could notice itīs not the original one :D

... And once the mechanic had to open the dash top (very easily unscrewing some screws, he fixed the high beam telltale light. He had to instal a new socket, taking feed from the switch on the floor as the circuit was broken at some point. Some burned out bulb behind the climate control panel was also changed.

After this was fixed, I took Rex to a good electrician some friend recommended me. Heīs about 60 years and repaired many American cars 30-40 years ago so heīs familiar with these climate controls. Finally he made the blower work at all speeds; the relay I bought on Ebay supposedly for this car was not appropriate for this system so he adapted a modern relay and ĄIt works!. In addition he fixed and cleaned 2 vacuum valves as warm air could not be delivered through the lower outlets. Now everything works. :D

But now the problem is A/C compressor pulley seizes from time to time making the belt to squeal even when the clutch wire unplugged. As the mechanic adviced me to buy a remanufactured one, I did so. Itīs on the way together with a expansion valve and an accumulator... And 2 front coil springs as he let me bring this stuff in a container he has hired leaving Miami in one month to save a good amount. Supposedly the new torque converter is coming in this container.:cool:

77CDV
03-05-12, 10:33 PM
Looks like you're making very good progress! :)

outsider
03-06-12, 08:10 AM
That's awesome! Where did Santa get that radio?! I need one fo rmy 69 or I'll have to put in a modern radio.

CADforce69
03-06-12, 11:33 AM
Looks like you're making very good progress! :)

Thanks. Iīm waiting for good weather to change patchy taillights in bumper for '70 moldings. Iīve got the moldings after cleaning, polishing and painting them and the back up lights ready to be used as turn signals:

http://s14.postimage.org/46wvqks31/IMG_1247.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/46wvqks31/) http://s14.postimage.org/nq1gzxqul/IMG_1242.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/nq1gzxqul/)

Iīve made a bracket set to stick them to the interior of bumper as original '70 bumper had a fold where they were screwed down.

After that, I would like to fix lower front fenders and at the same time changing the front coil springs, that are sagging lowering front end.

A/C compressor, as soon as it arrives home and torque converter as soon as the mechanic is in the mood to do it. :p

----------


That's awesome! Where did Santa get that radio?! I need one fo rmy 69 or I'll have to put in a modern radio.

This is where Santa bought it :shhh: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-69-Cadillac-Custom-Autosound-USA-630-240-WATT-Stereo-Radio-USB-MP3-Input-/120795640119?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c1ffb3137 This seller has 100% positive feedback.

There is also available a cheaper one with 200 W: http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-72-CADILLAC-RADIO-AM-FM-POD-MP3-200W-USA230-/300558042193?hash=item45faa7c451&item=300558042193&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr but Santa sent a message to this seller to ask some questions but he never answered (What a lack of respect :lol:) :noidea:

Though this radio is more expensive than many modern ones this adds a lot of value to the car IMO :)

Stingroo
03-06-12, 11:39 AM
If you ever have your dash taken apart again, re-route those wires for the AUX/USB to your glovebox. It'll be hidden when closed, and a lot more convenient. That's how I had mine set up in the wagon.

I dig that radio. :) Good to hear from you again.

outsider
03-06-12, 11:41 AM
Thank you my friend! I will be ordering one of those after I put on 4 new tires!

Hard to save money for a wedding and still have money to work on these cars! haha.

CADforce69
03-06-12, 02:11 PM
If you ever have your dash taken apart again, re-route those wires for the AUX/USB to your glovebox. It'll be hidden when closed, and a lot more convenient. That's how I had mine set up in the wagon.

I dig that radio. :) Good to hear from you again.

Thanx for the tip! Maybe it can be done without taking the dash apart. Iīll have a look at it. ;)

Iīm really happy with the radio. Seller feedback was not wrong. It has even a selector for American or European frequencies on one side (European selected).

----------


Thank you my friend! I will be ordering one of those after I put on 4 new tires!

Of course, safety first! :LOL:


Hard to save money for a wedding and still have money to work on these cars! haha.

Now my income is not very good and Iīm using my savings to restore the caddy but itīs the project of my life... My legacy for generations to come :lol:

CADforce69
09-24-12, 06:20 PM
Iīve made no significative progress in the last months. Tried to attach '70 back-up lights to the hole behind the truck taillights on rear bumper but I discovered that it should be more square and 1" longer if I want to place moldings in the right place matching with the back-up lights -to be used as turn signals- but rear bumper is near 0.2" thick! :banghead:Maybe a friend help me to do this armored steel cutting work as he has a radial saw.

On the other side, the torque converter, front coil springs, A/C compressor and A/C receiver drier and expansion valve have arrived from their long sea trip:bouncy:, but I still have to wait until my friend, the mechanic find one day to change all this.

But in the meantime, we have made a video of me parking the caddy: When I enter the parking, after going down the ramp I go to the end of a inside street at the left, and then I go backwards to my space: The usual procedure. I added some pics to avoid cutting the soundtrack :p

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOXXsSBuKFo

outsider
09-25-12, 11:00 AM
What about using a grinder with a cut off wheel to cut through it? Or if that's too big maybe a smaller cut off wheel on like a dremmel or a die grinder.

talismandave
09-25-12, 11:47 AM
That is quite the maze you navigate to tuck your baby in every night. Beautiful well kept garage and big parking space. I love the video, Rex is very menacing looking snaking through the garage. Very nice. Sorry to hear progress is slow, but moving in the right direction at least. I have still been unable to do anything to mine in spite of the fact I am feeling better.
I agree that a Dremel or moto-tool would be the best for the fine fitting work involved. You can do an awful lot with them. 30,000 RPM makes them stronger than they look!

cadillac kevin
09-25-12, 12:57 PM
That is quite the maze you navigate to tuck your baby in every night. Beautiful well kept garage and big parking space. I love the video, Rex is very menacing looking snaking through the garage. Very nice. Sorry to hear progress is slow, but moving in the right direction at least. I have still been unable to do anything to mine in spite of the fact I am feeling better.
I agree that a Dremel or moto-tool would be the best for the fine fitting work involved. You can do an awful lot with them. 30,000 RPM makes them stronger than they look!

I agree. A dremel (or similar) is a great tool. My dremel is older than me and is still going strong. Its been a very worthwhile investment. I've used it for everything from woodworking, to cutting, to polishing chrome and plastic, to grinding down rust. The only problem with mine was the plastic shaft between the motor and the output shaft disintegrated (after 18 years of use), but a lighter and some tubing (about $1 investment) and it was better than new.

talismandave
09-25-12, 05:47 PM
I finally broke down and bought the 10.8v cordless. Best $80.00 I ever spent. Mine is out once or twice a week for the goofiest things.

cadillac kevin
09-25-12, 06:13 PM
I finally broke down and bought the 10.8v cordless. Best $80.00 I ever spent. Mine is out once or twice a week for the goofiest things.

I used mine tonight for cutting some wire nails that used to hold my new (to me) console together so I could reassemble the console after disassembling it to sand it.

CADforce69
09-25-12, 06:28 PM
Thank you for your advice, Matt, Dave and Kevin, my friend has a radial saw with a small cut off wheel. Heīs confident this tool will be able to do the work; in fact I have seen amazed how easily it made two cuts on the front bumper support of my '73 Dodge to make some room for an oil cooler we installed on her. He says it would not even be necessary taking off the caddy bumper as the cut off wheel has a 2" diameter. Itīs a powerful but dangerous tool.

As for the parking, yes, Iīm fortunate to have in a European capital a parking space where I could even store a 75 series for a cheap price :lol: Lightning is quite good. Floor has still grey dust but that helps to hide the oil drips :p

Restorations goes like this: Sometimes very fast and sometimes slow but Iīm happy as what is left on the list does not prevent me from enjoying my caddy. Last Sunday we went to another classic car meeting. Last pics of the video are taken there :) When we had just finished lunch a thunderstorm broke out and I could check wipers are working ok now and Rex runs like a champ under strong wind while other cars were wobbling. It runs more and more powerful and smooth as it does more and more miles.

With the autumn breeze, you will push forward your project, Dave. Just wait and see :)

JP76
10-21-12, 06:27 AM
this story is really great !!
thanx for helping me out with the picture for the generator today I fixed the problem
in the netherlands we have also a forum called www.dutchcadillac.nl sorry it's all in dutch maybe it can be translated ? ( it's possible that I make mistakes in my writing but I'll do my best :) )

Dirtywaterdiver
10-21-12, 08:20 AM
Wow, I thought I had trouble getting my '68 in my garage with a 6' wide door and 21' depth. (I've hit the wall twice)

That is like a puzzle.

I would not want try parking there after visiting "Taberna Tempranillo" it was hard enough walking back to the hotel : )

CADforce69
10-28-12, 03:23 PM
this story is really great !!
thanx for helping me out with the picture for the generator today I fixed the problem
in the netherlands we have also a forum called www.dutchcadillac.nl sorry it's all in dutch maybe it can be translated ? ( it's possible that I make mistakes in my writing but I'll do my best :) )

Iīm glad my service manualīs picture helped you and that you like my cadillac restoration story :) I still have some things to fix but I have to wait until my friend, the mechanic have some time to make the next repairs.

My navigator has an automatic translator so I have been able to check this web. Itīs very interesting and useful. You are lucky there is so many cadillac lovers in the Netherlands so you can help each other in your own country. Here in Spain I know a group of American cars fans I share our madness with :p

This forum is also a great help to get specific info and help. :thumbsup:

----------


Wow, I thought I had trouble getting my '68 in my garage with a 6' wide door and 21' depth. (I've hit the wall twice)

That is like a puzzle.

I would not want try parking there after visiting "Taberna Tempranillo" it was hard enough walking back to the hotel : )

Thatīs a big parking space and a friendly parking for Madrid. Believe me :)

Were you in Madrid recently? El Tempranillo is in a very lively bar area. You can end up drunk without noticing :lol: ... But when I get out to to these places I donīt take the caddy. I wouldnīt even know where to park it. Madrid is not a big car-friendly city :p

CADforce69
01-14-13, 07:33 PM
After some months waiting for my friend, the mechanic, he had some time to work with Rex and finally he changed the torque converter. It leaked oil through the central hole (0,25 quarts every week), damaged by the old stiff dried seal. New seals were placed again and now there is no leak. We have detected another leak -just some drops- in the steering box by the input shaft; in fact the Inspection station guys had pointed it out. I have ordered to Rockauto a rebuilt one for $136.00 that will come by sea to save shipping cost.

Front coil springs -sagged by weight and +15 years of weathering- were also changed. This has changed the look of the car, dignified by the correct factory height of the front end. The rear end height can be varied thanks to the air adjustable shocks through a hidden valve in the lower rear fender. One of the new springs snores slightly but letīs wait it will seat in some months. If not, we will try a nylon cap. The best result is that the clamp between the exhaust manifold and center section does not hit the ground any more when passing a pothole. In these pics you can see the present look:

http://s8.postimage.org/q9n1t00gh/IMG_2018.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q9n1t00gh/) http://s8.postimage.org/60uma5utt/IMG_2019.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/60uma5utt/) http://s8.postimage.org/rkpr4cpqp/IMG_2020.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/rkpr4cpqp/) http://s8.postimage.org/u8f7epis1/IMG_2023.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/u8f7epis1/) http://s8.postimage.org/79ihvsms1/IMG_2021.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/79ihvsms1/)

Old coil springs in the new ones box (Notice the difference in length) and new springs installed:

http://s8.postimage.org/yzk4tuhxt/IMG_2014.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/yzk4tuhxt/) http://s8.postimage.org/85xtdl6xd/IMG_2005.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/85xtdl6xd/) http://s8.postimage.org/wc8gopt1t/IMG_2002.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/wc8gopt1t/)

I had to get the front end aligned again, as parameters change, and itīs good to be sure everything keeps meeting specifications, but left wheel camber could not be adjusted as the eccentric nut was jammed. Next time I take the car to my friend, he will have to ease it using a blowtorch. The aligning shop guy -an American classics fan- called my attention on the worn strut rod bushings and the stabilizer bar bushings. I included these in the steering box order.

The Air conditioning compressor, which was making a pre-gripping noise was changed by a rebuilt one -too much time with a low gas charge-, receiver-drier bottle and expansion valve too. (these two parts very cheap and adviced to change with compressor). I thought there would be no more belt squeal but it seems the alternator one keeps making some noise from time to time. My friend says itīs not alternator fault but the belt itself, so I ordered two belts of different makes (little more than $4 each) and another one for air pump (who knows). When warm weather arrives, Iīll get the A/C system charged (maybe a cleaning treatment before). On these pics you can see the new compressor installed, new expansion valve and bottle, as well as the old compressor:

http://s8.postimage.org/drfn3wi8h/IMG_2006.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/drfn3wi8h/) http://s8.postimage.org/yztblbwpd/IMG_2007.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/yztblbwpd/) http://s8.postimage.org/y3wu5vn0x/IMG_2011.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/y3wu5vn0x/) http://s8.postimage.org/41s97clld/IMG_2009.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/41s97clld/) http://s8.postimage.org/bzi2v99ht/IMG_2012.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/bzi2v99ht/) http://s8.postimage.org/j2lcx4pjl/IMG_2013.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/j2lcx4pjl/)

talismandave
01-14-13, 07:47 PM
Looks good to see Rex getting some needed attention. Nothing makes a car look fresh like sitting at the proper stance. The picture of the springs in the box is funny. You really don't realize how much different until you see that.

CADforce69
01-14-13, 08:10 PM
When I was coming from the alignment shop, by the motorway I had a little incident with Rex. He had two knocks before but this time there was a bigger one. The engine lost strength until it shut off. Fortunately inertia on these 2,5 ton. cars is huge so he went on more than 1/2 mile until I saw a gas station where I could stop safely. As I could not start the engine, my friend came to help me and -after some tests- verified the condenser had failed (typical when knock is about -and using lead substitute-). I had with me the old points-condenser set that seemed to keep still more than half its life, and I could go on until my parking space though I had to adjust distributor advance. He adviced me to get a new distributor, as this had worn weights and some ground problems so I added one to my order for $73.

Itīs a strange breakdown as the points/condenser set had less than 4,000 miles. It was an AC-Delco set (In theory the best). The ones installed now on the car are the original Delco-Remy that never have caused any problem while these caused some ground problems at first until my friend got them working. I asked him if a HEI system could be better but his opinion is HEI may fail in less occasions but when it fails there is no other solution than towing the car. Points system is more simple and you only have to take with you a spare points-condenser set to fix an eventual breakdown. I have bought an original Delco-Remy set from Ebay :bigroll:

Here (on worse quality pics) at the alignment shop entry:

http://s8.postimage.org/ob6qk5c9d/Imagen027.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ob6qk5c9d/) http://s8.postimage.org/4j4kkv0pd/Imagen026.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4j4kkv0pd/) http://s8.postimage.org/gz1aelu1d/Imagen025.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gz1aelu1d/)

Little by little we go ahead, but these cars always have "to-dos" on the list: To the above mentioned, I have to add Exterior original mirror, lower fenders repair and take out those truck taillights on the rear bumper :D

----------


Looks good to see Rex getting some needed attention. Nothing makes a car look fresh like sitting at the proper stance. The picture of the springs in the box is funny. You really don't realize how much different until you see that.

I did know the car was too low comparing with other 69-70 caddies on Internet... And I also felt it with every bump in the underside of the car :D

csbuckn
01-14-13, 10:02 PM
HEI is way easier to keep up. Just keep an extra coil with you and you're set. You had me worried when you said knocks and loss of power. Glad it was ignition related.

1969VertDeville
01-15-13, 12:25 AM
Coming along nicely! Im keeping track here as Im prepping to restore my 69 as well

CADforce69
01-15-13, 06:12 AM
HEI is way easier to keep up. Just keep an extra coil with you and you're set. You had me worried when you said knocks and loss of power. Glad it was ignition related.

Thatīs interesting. Iīll give points one more chance but if I have more trouble maybe Iīll opt for HEI :)

----------


Coming along nicely! Im keeping track here as Im prepping to restore my 69 as well

Welcome to this thread :) Here you have a sample of most of the possible issues a 69 may have (Though not the worst). Keep up the good work with your ragtop ;)

outsider
01-15-13, 06:53 AM
man I'm so jealous of this car! Every time I see it it makes me want to finish up my 69!

CADforce69
01-15-13, 08:42 AM
man I'm so jealous of this car! Every time I see it it makes me want to finish up my 69!

Maybe now itīs not a good season unless you have a good garage to work in... But your 69 does not need so much work to finish it and start enjoying... Iīm also looking forward to have some news from your calais :)

outsider
01-15-13, 08:54 AM
I've got in in the garage right now for winter. I need to get the timing thing figured out. The distributor is seized in there and can not turn. I may have to take the timing cover off to free it up. Other than that the only problem is that the brake pedal will not return under it's own power. I have to pull it back up.

Hey could you look on your brake pedal and see if there's a return spring on there? It looks like there's a hole for it but I haven't been able to find a spring. Pics would help if there are :)

CADforce69
01-15-13, 09:05 AM
Most probably you will have to take the timing cover off and try to take distributor out.

Next time I go to Rex's parking Iīll try to take some pics of the brake pedal ;) The most plausible explanation is the spring broke.

csbuckn
01-15-13, 11:08 AM
You could take the oil pump off and hammer the dizzy out from underneath.

CADforce69
01-15-13, 11:37 AM
^Maybe thatīs a better idea. To reach the distributor you have to take out water pump first and then the crankshaft pulley (not always easy). Then, you must remove front cover of the engine:

http://s2.postimage.org/dfsmnhrtl/34512_133075970062381_100000799373639_144190_594.j pg (http://postimage.org/)

An maybe then you find something like this:

http://s2.postimage.org/rxptvhj4p/34512_133075973395714_100000799373639_144191_285.j pg (http://postimage.org/)

Pics taken from a '68 472.

csbuckn
01-15-13, 11:45 AM
That crank pulley is no joke as you can see in the pic. I had to cut the old one off, then accidently put the new one on before the timing cover and had to cut that one off even though it was only on for about 10 minutes.

The-Dullahan
01-15-13, 12:10 PM
Interestingly, I did not have a problem getting mine off.

I'm with Cadforce here on the Distributor. If it is seized and you can't get it out, removing the timing cover seems the best way to go. It also lets you get a look at what the rest of the innards look like and judge if you will be replacing them as well.

CADforce69
01-15-13, 01:12 PM
That crank pulley is no joke as you can see in the pic. I had to cut the old one off, then accidently put the new one on before the timing cover and had to cut that one off even though it was only on for about 10 minutes.

Could not you take it off with a pulley extractor?

csbuckn
01-15-13, 02:06 PM
I couldn't get it with a quality puller.

CADforce69
01-23-13, 02:52 PM
Today I went to the caddy parking space so I took some pics of the brake pedal mechanism as requested by outsider. Itīs really difficult as itīs deep under the dash. This is the best I could get:

http://s13.postimage.org/o4pdbvxyb/IMG_2096.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/o4pdbvxyb/) http://s13.postimage.org/b33om19k3/IMG_2095.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/b33om19k3/) http://s13.postimage.org/clz2r0g4j/IMG_2091.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/clz2r0g4j/)

In the first and the last pic you can see the stop light switch at the pedal back (opposite to the accordion hose).

I canīt see any spring nor the shop manual seems to mention it. It seems itīs linked directly to the power head back (see the accordion hose at the pedal back) so I think itīs the power head which pushes back the pedal. Maybe someone here knows better the cause of brake pedal not going back when you press it :noidea:

outsider
01-23-13, 03:25 PM
thanks that's exactly what I needed.

I replaced the power brake booster and master cylinder but that didn't solve my problem. I've ordered rear brake hardware kits to try and replace the return springs inside the drums etc. Thanks for the pics :)

CADforce69
01-25-13, 02:38 PM
This week I took off my '69īs nozzles as they were clogged so the washer could not work although the pump seemed to work ok.

This is a detail of the driver side nozzle still attached by the hexagonal screw:
http://s7.postimage.org/3llm6671n/IMG_2084.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/sev66tq1z/full/)
image upload (http://postimage.org/)
http://s7.postimage.org/jh5uvq88b/IMG_2085.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/c16l9xkiv/full/)
images (http://postimage.org/)

Both nozzles off before and after a quick cleaning:
http://s7.postimage.org/a6tqs6xij/IMG_2086.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/f5h96q1bb/full/)
upload photos (http://postimage.org/)
http://s7.postimage.org/nwoa0zkmj/IMG_2098.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/8nycn7qxz/full/)
photo sharing websites (http://postimage.org/)

Nozzles can be easily unclogged using a pin or a needle, then spraying some water back and forth until the debris inside is dragged (I used my mouth). :D

And now, here comes the problem: Now that nozzles are clean I realize that every time you turn on wipers washer pump is working and throwing water on the windshield :confused:. Probably, it was happening before but I could not see it. I got the wiper / washer motor changed by a remanufactured one last year. Maybe some connector is wrong?

Any idea on how can I fix this? :hmm:

outsider
01-25-13, 03:28 PM
Sounds to me like there's some kind of a problem between the wiper switch and the motor. Either the motor you replaced it with was slightly different (different year maybe?) or some wire got crossed?

I can look in my shop manual when I get home and see if I can find you a wiring schematic

CADforce69
01-25-13, 06:49 PM
I bought the motor from Rockauto as a unit for a 69 cadillac de ville and apparently it was the same as the old one.

You are right. I should have started by looking in the FSM:

http://s7.postimage.org/w1g1o14xn/Manual0.jpg (http://postimage.org/)
free image hosting (http://postimage.org/)

In page 12-21 and 12-22 there is also a checking procedure. Maybe the washer connector is plugged upside down? Iīll do some tests as suggested above :bigroll:

CADforce69
02-07-13, 05:38 PM
Well, the other day I tried to do the first step. Even disconnecting wiring from washer pump itīs constantly working with wipers on, so it must be the relay or some problem inside the mechanism. I will have to get cover off and see whatīs going on...

CADforce69
05-26-13, 02:28 PM
There has been some time since the last time I reported my caddy progress, due to lack of time after changing job.

In april I took Rex to the exhaust shop, which previously made most of the line, to change muffler -the only thing I didnīt change before, as it was almost acceptable-. After the detonations produced by the condenser fail, the small leak it had finally opened so it was noticeable by the sound of the car. This was not the original muffler but a very similar one; it was substituted by another similar to the original in stainless steel -like the rest of the line-. Now the car hardly produces a sound at idle. Some shots of the moment:


http://s2.postimg.org/uno384q85/Imagen015_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/uno384q85/) http://s2.postimg.org/4quevimkl/Imagen016_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4quevimkl/) http://s2.postimg.org/xkb48ew1x/Imagen022.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/xkb48ew1x/) http://s2.postimg.org/bjurrsddx/Imagen023.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bjurrsddx/) http://s2.postimg.org/myr8wepqd/IMG_2306.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/myr8wepqd/) http://s2.postimg.org/f7aixull1/IMG_2308.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/f7aixull1/)

I also got a very cheap set of parts including an original 69-70 exterior mirror (long sought) working ok and with an acceptable chroming, as well as an interior one in perfect condition (mine has some stains on the glass edges). Itīs a detail which has helped noticeably in visibility and aesthetics; the one the car had when I bought it had a very different base so it was slanted from the right angle. Besides, the cables were broken so no adjustment was possible:


http://s7.postimg.org/etj7ng8yv/IMG_2271.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/etj7ng8yv/) http://s7.postimg.org/9w5n2c6zr/IMG_2272.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9w5n2c6zr/) http://s7.postimg.org/lvh59nckn/IMG_2273.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/lvh59nckn/) http://s7.postimg.org/krx0xorxj/IMG_2274.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/krx0xorxj/) http://s7.postimg.org/yqtqa5h7r/IMG_2275.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yqtqa5h7r/)

This is how it looks now:

http://s24.postimg.org/6h8fhgiyp/IMG_2355.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6h8fhgiyp/) http://s24.postimg.org/we23u2mm9/IMG_2356.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/we23u2mm9/) http://s24.postimg.org/d6eyxh4ap/IMG_2357.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/d6eyxh4ap/)

After so many years with the A/C inactive, I was recommended to make a deep cleaning before recharging the circuit so I protect the new elements I changed and guarantee a good working of the system. 15 days ago I took it to a shop recommended by a friend to get the circuit cleaned, above all the A/C radiator (evaporator), which was removed and cleaned in depth. Previously, compressor, expansion valve and drier bottle were changed; the system was checked to locate any eventual leak. It was recharged with original gas and oil in quantities advised by the FSM. The result is the A/C is working again silent and fresh. Next june 1, I will take Rex to a wedding so the couple will be comfortable also in the thermal sense :)

Now Iīm waiting to receive a new steering box -the original one has some leak I was warned of during Safety Inspection- and a complete distributor. When winter is close Iīm planning getting lower front fenders repaired and maybe I take these truck taillights off the rear fender. :P

outsider
05-26-13, 03:00 PM
simply amazing. I love your car!

talismandave
05-27-13, 01:03 AM
Good to hear from you again CF69!

It has been a long road for you with Rex. I am glad to see you are now down to the little details, instead of major issues. Have fun and make some gas money on that wedding circuit this summer! You and Rex should be in high demand.:thumbsup:

CADforce69
05-27-13, 12:38 PM
simply amazing. I love your car!

Looking forward to see new pics of your caddy, Matt :thumbsup:

----------


Good to hear from you again CF69!

It has been a long road for you with Rex. I am glad to see you are now down to the little details, instead of major issues. Have fun and make some gas money on that wedding circuit this summer! You and Rex should be in high demand.:thumbsup:

Thanks Dave! Yeah, itīs been a long road but I have not felt it as so long, 'cause several friends has helped me and recommended me good professionals who made a good job without charging me a fortune. It has been an exciting adventure that has not ended yet... Iīll keep you posted ;)

As to the wedding business, itīs difficult nowadays getting clients due to the crisis we live here but I charge a very affordable price (the best for a caddy in the sorroundings). Itīs always a help with the maintenance costs and an opportunity to drive with no worry about the gas :D

77CDV
05-27-13, 03:12 PM
Rex looks amazing! :thumbsup:

CADforce69
05-27-13, 04:27 PM
^Thanks! :) Little by little we are bringing to the surface the beauty hidden inside that big body. Now waxing and polishing body once more for the next saturday event.

CADforce69
11-21-13, 07:27 PM
It has been some time since I made the last update here but only in the last weeks we have made relevant progress.

Finally I got the steering box changed. It leaked oil noticeably and it was somewhat loose considering all tie rod ends, idler arm and the drag link were changed. The strut bushings and the stabilizer bar center bushings were changed too, because they were in a worse than poor condition, as the alignment shop technician pointed out one year ago. When I took Rex back to the alignment shop everything could be perfectly adjusted (even the left front wheel camber, as the jammed adjustment nut could be finally moved) and guys it seems a different car. It drives almost like a modern car; steering is accurate and conveys even more confidence than before.

The generator and the P/S belts were also changed. Although they were little more than 2 years old, they squealed when you accelerated the engine to high RPM.

The distributor was also changed. It had some ground problems and the weight system were almost shattered. It required too much advance to get the car running right so when engine was at operating temperature and it was shut off, starting it again was difficult, as the starter seemed to be fighting against the engine at full compression. Now the engine runs better, I can notice a better performance and there are no hot starting problems.

I finally got a new oil filter and got oil and filter changed too. My next door parts shop sold me an "equivalent" filter that leaked oil (even when it was tightened to the limit) when the previous Fram PH 25 never leaked a drop. I could get locally an ACDelco PF24. At first no leak but when I arrived at the parking it leaked somewhat. Maybe it requires to be tighten a bit more... Now itīs the only leak left on this car.

Washer pump is still working all the time when wipers are on. it seems a problem with the control (this is a second hand one I bought from Ebay, in better condition than the original one). It seems the control is feeding constantly the washer relay so the ratchet wheel can never be freed. In addition, when i stop wipers, sometimes they hesitate to start again until I press the washer button slightly and they stop. I should look for a new control or try to fix it... Only if some friend with much better electricity knowledge helps me.

Next December 7th I have to pass again the annual safety inspection. When itīs done, itīs time to think of fixing lower fenders and facing my project to delete the truck taillights from the rear bumper. USA Parts Supply sell lower fenders for $119.00 each... But when you enter a body shop you start thinking of fixing this or that and nobody knows how it can end :lol:

CADforce69
12-16-13, 05:19 PM
Once the oil filter was changed, it seems that part of the oil leak came from the front part of the oil pan gasket. It drips from the lower spike of the front (rounded) part of the gasket. The oil filter leak seems solved but now the problem is this part of the gasket.

According to the shop manual, to remove the oil pan on this model you need to remove engine from the vehicle chassis!:crying: A friend (he is a mechanic) told me that maybe another option is removing the front cover of the engine and changing just the front part of the gasket -as it is a separate part-.

How difficult is to remove the front cover of the engine? Has anyone done it? Maybe the most difficult part is removing crankshaft pulley...

On the other hand, in the last months, often on cold starts, there is a gas leak from the fuel pump area. After 4 minutes or so it ceases. It seemed to come from a hose just below the pump. It was changed and for some weeks there was no fuel leak but some days ago it happened again. I crept under the car engine and the leak seems to come from the upper part of the pump, like an overflow. Maybe it has some problem on the diaphragm so when the engine warms expansion fixes it temporarily. I have ordered a new fuel pump. I hope the problem is solved definitely.

During the Safety Inspection (I.T.V.) the technician of the station pointed out (in addition of the oil leak) that inner tie rod ends were loose (although they were changed 3 years and 6.000 miles ago). Fortunately the car passed inspection but I was told to change these tie rods. I have asked the mechanic who changed them to take a look. For both of us such a wearing seems incredible. He has proposed another solution for the oil leak: Emptying the engine oil, leaving the oil pan 2 days without any oil so the gasket gets as dry as possible and cleaning the pan with a solvent. After these 2 days applying a special coat to the pan and gasket to seal it. This seems easy at least; maybe itīs worth trying it before we attempt the definitive solution.

Suggestions on any of the issues are welcome.

----------

I have been investigating about fixing the front fenders, rotten in their lower part. A friend of mine who happens to have a body shop thinks that itīs very difficult curing rust even when you cut the sheet by a healthy part, weld a patch and treat it to prevent corrosion. Sooner or later rust will appear again, he says. He advised me itīs better getting rust free fenders and just changing the bad ones for the good ones. Iīve been looking for rust free fenders but they donīt seem to be available for less than $ 600 a piece. Cadillacs Only offers reconditioned bare fenders that have had the rust parts repaired for that price, but I would like to find good non repaired ones for the above reason.

Any information about where could I find them? From Spain itīs more difficult as itīs not the kind of item sold by Internet. I could ship them to Miami, to a friendīs address so he would ship them to Spain in a container with more parts he buys in U.S.

So far I have only found this ad on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-CADILLAC-FRONT-FENDER-/291038165887?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c339fb7f&vxp=mtr

Two pics of Rex in one of the last classic car meetings we attended december 1st. :

http://s9.postimg.org/bb6xzqz67/IMG_2826.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5a992ocjv/full/)

http://s9.postimg.org/qlbekok27/IMG_2868.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/d4eg1t9qj/full/)


sube (http://postimage.org/index.php?lang=spanish)

silverfox103
12-16-13, 07:42 PM
Hello CADforce

I enjoy reading the story about your Caddy.

About your fenders, I would have to disagree with you bodyman for several reasons. To find a replacement fender is probably next to impossible, and if you find one they're not going to be cheap. GM cars of all type were notorious for rotting in the front corners. The rust may not be from salt, but from mud, leaves, pineneedles etc. They would plug up the drain holes and the fender would rot from the inside.

I would have your bodyman cut out the rusted and weld in a new piece. If he doesn't want to do it, find someone that will. If it is properly undercoated, there is no reason why that won't last. It will be the easiest and cheapest fix, and it may be your only fix. After you have it fixed you can look for new fenders and be selective.

Tom C.

cadillacbart
12-16-13, 11:56 PM
Hello CADforce

I enjoy reading the story about your Caddy.

About your fenders, I would have to disagree with you bodyman for several reasons. To find a replacement fender is probably next to impossible, and if you find one they're not going to be cheap. GM cars of all type were notorious for rotting in the front corners. The rust may not be from salt, but from mud, leaves, pineneedles etc. They would plug up the drain holes and the fender would rot from the inside.

I would have your bodyman cut out the rusted and weld in a new piece. If he doesn't want to do it, find someone that will. If it is properly undercoated, there is no reason why that won't last. It will be the easiest and cheapest fix, and it may be your only fix. After you have it fixed you can look for new fenders and be selective.

Tom C.

I completely agree. In fact this was one of the "easier" areas of rust to repair in my 68. Really easy to create patch panels, though I think these may be available commercially now.

outsider
12-17-13, 08:44 AM
Yeah, a good repair done right can last just as long as, or even longer than, a replacement fender. If the original rusted then eventually a replacement will rust too.

Great pics of Rex. Always love seeing that beast. Also, that mustang in the last pic looks very similar to my wife's father's mustang that we recently restored.

CADforce69
12-17-13, 06:56 PM
Thank you for your comments, guys.

Iīm afraid the damage is too extended (very close to the wheel arch) to use the patch panels that are for sale (in this case from USA Parts Supply). Rust seems to cross all the lower part of the fender:

http://s28.postimg.org/if9rlatlp/IMG_2882.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/is15rhbvd/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/6eswybbkt/IMG_2883.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/rogj95rvd/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/3tiqx1wt9/IMG_2885.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/fimql0nrt/full/)

This is the patch panel:

http://s8.postimg.org/c3da9ypqd/69_70_fpatch_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ekp1h89mp/full/)

http://s8.postimg.org/d4diz36px/69_70_fpatch_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/uhntdy20x/full/)

The only alternative to buying a pair of fenders is that the shop makes custom patch panels (lower half fenders). Today I talked to another place in California that had a pair of good fenders for sale. The price is $ 495 for each one. It seems to be the standard price. I would have to add the shipping to Miami ($275) and from there to Spain (Maybe other $70). I will have to talk with the bodyman. Probably if he does all the work it will be more economical -As suggested by silverfox103-and Iīm afraid I will face the risk that itīs not a perfect solution. Your comments make me think that risk of rust reappearance can not be that bad, considering the car will be garaged all the time excluding short excursions and visits to the shop. It will by no means be a daily driver considering the gas prices here :p and the size of the vehicle for European standards. In addition, salt on the roads is very rare here in Madrid city.

----------


Hello CADforce

I enjoy reading the story about your Caddy.
Tom C.

Thanks Tom. I would like it serves of any help and hope for those who face a long restoration like mine, and for sharing our adventure with those who enjoy it as I enjoyed so many similar stories which served me as an inspiration :)

----------




Great pics of Rex. Always love seeing that beast. Also, that mustang in the last pic looks very similar to my wife's father's mustang that we recently restored.

Thank you Matt. My girl always asks me if I donīt get tired of taking pics of Rex every day I take it for a walk :D That mustang was in a perfect condition in every aspect. As I learned, it took the owner years bringing the car to Spain due to some problem with paperwork. Congrats for your father-in-lawīs mustang. Itīs a beautiful car and very maneuvrable for European streets. That color is perfect for this model.

csbuckn
12-17-13, 06:59 PM
I see what you mean by the patch not working. The prices seem very high for a fender. I was just looking on car-part.com and they listed fenders that sound promising. Also check Cadillacsonly.

silverfox103
12-17-13, 08:59 PM
Hello CADforce

I am also active on the wagon site, as are quite a few other guys on this forum. We have a Wagon of the Month feature every month. About a year ago, we had a story that you may enjoy which is related to your body repair problems:

http://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t7639-december-12-wagon-of-the-month

Tom

smelvis
12-18-13, 05:25 PM
Hey CADforce,

Last winter I did the timing chain on Daisy. The shop manual said to remove the oil pan for this job to ensure the seal at front cover.

After opening it up and noticing the chain had been replaced and I wouldn't have to scoop up bits of plastic from the oil pan I did not want to pull the engine so I gambled that I could seal it up without removing oil pan.

If you follow the instructions to remove front cover minus the oil pan you can silicone that bottom seal. I let the silicone cure for several days before refilling oil and running engine. Hasn't leaked a drop.

The front cover is pretty simple. The biggest challenge is removing the harmonic balancer. I don't think you could get the puller on without removing the radiator. But removing the radiator and pulling front cover is a lot easier than pulling engine.

CADforce69
12-18-13, 06:48 PM
I see what you mean by the patch not working. The prices seem very high for a fender. I was just looking on car-part.com and they listed fenders that sound promising. Also check Cadillacsonly.

Thanks for the info, csbuckn. I already contacted Cadillacs only. They offer reconditioned bare fenders that have had the rust parts repaired for $595 :hmm: Maybe I contact some of the dealers who seem to have no rust ones.

----------


Hello CADforce

I am also active on the wagon site, as are quite a few other guys on this forum. We have a Wagon of the Month feature every month. About a year ago, we had a story that you may enjoy which is related to your body repair problems:

http://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t7639-december-12-wagon-of-the-month

Tom

Itīs amazing what this guy did for his car, and the damage salt on the road can make even to more modern cars (in theory enjoying better anti-rust treatments). A necessary condition is having a place where you can work. Thatīs one of my dreams I have to fulfill yet. I admire these people who can do these miracles with a car others would have sent to the car wreck.

----------


Hey CADforce,

Last winter I did the timing chain on Daisy. The shop manual said to remove the oil pan for this job to ensure the seal at front cover.

After opening it up and noticing the chain had been replaced and I wouldn't have to scoop up bits of plastic from the oil pan I did not want to pull the engine so I gambled that I could seal it up without removing oil pan.

If you follow the instructions to remove front cover minus the oil pan you can silicone that bottom seal. I let the silicone cure for several days before refilling oil and running engine. Hasn't leaked a drop.

The front cover is pretty simple. The biggest challenge is removing the harmonic balancer. I don't think you could get the puller on without removing the radiator. But removing the radiator and pulling front cover is a lot easier than pulling engine.

Thank you, smelvis. The mechanic who made most of the work in my caddy said the same yesterday: If you want to change the front part of the oil pan gasket you should remove the oil pan (at least one centimeter -but if you do this, you should change the entire gasket-)... Sealing the bottom seal is another idea I heard from a friend but I doubted if it would work. Thatīs another possibility though as I suspected too, radiator would need to be removed.

There is another alternative the mechanic has offered: Draining the engine oil for 2 days and cleaning as much as possible the oil remains, applying a specific solvent and then applying a special coating to seal the leak. The advantage is you donīt have to remove anything and it's cheap. If this fails we can always try the other solution.

smelvis
12-18-13, 07:03 PM
Thanks for the info, csbuckn. I already contacted Cadillacs only. They offer reconditioned bare fenders that have had the rust parts repaired for $595 :hmm: Maybe I contact some of the dealers who seem to have no rust ones.

----------



Itīs amazing what this guy did for his car, and the damage salt on the road can make even to more modern cars (in theory enjoying better anti-rust treatments). A necessary condition is having a place where you can work. Thatīs one of my dreams I have to fulfill yet. I admire these people who can do these miracles with a car others would have sent to the car wreck.

----------



Thank you, smelvis. The mechanic who made most of the work in my caddy said the same yesterday: If you want to change the front part of the oil pan gasket you should remove the oil pan (at least one centimeter -but if you do this, you should change the entire gasket-)... Sealing the bottom seal is another idea I heard from a friend but I doubted if it would work. Thatīs another possibility though as I suspected too, radiator would need to be removed.

There is another alternative the mechanic has offered: Draining the engine oil for 2 days and cleaning as much as possible the oil remains, applying a specific solvent and then applying a special coating to seal the leak. The advantage is you donīt have to remove anything and it's cheap. If this fails we can always try the other solution.

I did loosen the pan in front and cleaned everything meticulously. I think the second option would work if you clean it properly. You may have to re seal in a few years but its simple enough. That's probably what i would try first if you have no other reason to pull the front cover. I would also clean and scuff the metal an inch or so past the seam and put a wider bead for the sealer to bite. I did that on an old junker and it held for 3 years.

CADforce69
01-25-14, 02:17 PM
Hello guys,

After the apparently bad hose was replaced, there still was a fuel leak. Finally I got the fuel pump changed as it seemed to leak by the top, and the other hose I had not changed yet. Now, no gas leak. The oil pan coating treatment apparently works, as after a 6 mile ride (including highway) there is no leak. Tomorrow I want to take the caddy to a classic car meeting 30 miles from home, so that will be the litmus test. Prior to the treatment I took the car to receive an under-carriage washing. It really needed it and this helps to trace any oil leak.

I have talked with the body guy. In the next week I want to meet him so he checks the fenders and decide if I have to ask a pair of patch panels or otherwise heīll do all the work alone. It will be definitely cheaper than bringing fenders in good condition from U.S. to Spain.

Not long to go! Iīll keep you posted.

CADforce69
03-19-14, 08:37 PM
Finally, Rex entered the clinic for his cosmetic surgery. I know the body shop owner, as he is a classic car lover (in fact, he has 4 classic cars) and he does occasionally some restoration jobs and I think he is professionally and personally trustworthy.

Rex will get his front lower fenders repaired and the patchy taillights in bumper changed for '70 moldings, with the '70 back up lights used as turn signals using orange bulbs (see page 12). I tried to do it by myself but the hole on the bumper needed to be widen to the edges 1-2 inches and I donīt have a radial saw to do this. In addition, the body shop guys have more experience and resources to make a good transformation. Weīll take this opportunity to remove some rust on the lower front of the driverīs door opening and fixing some swollen paint on the left quarter panel valley, where it joins to the body. Weīll try to fix the driverīs door hinges, as the door is sagging and hits when closed, so I bought a pin & bushing repair kit.

I bought from Ebay a right hand front fender wheel well trim molding as the original one is broken and also a pair of front upper bumpers (both sides) as chrome on originals were damaged due to scratches (cornering by ear). I was lucky with the driver side to be a used one but the passenger side chrome was completely faded once washed and polished so I had no other option than plate chroming it. A friend gave me a good plate chroming shop address time ago so I sent this part to them and the results are excellent as you can check on the pics. They fixed even most of deep rust marks made by water under the rubber molding. Some traces remained (too deep to be completely sanded) but they will be hidden under the fenders and the rubber molding. This is the right time to change these parts and improve definitively the front end look.

New wheel well trim molding and front upper bumpers before cleaning:

http://s22.postimg.org/rtxps19tt/IMG_2904.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/rh6blurjx/full/)

http://s22.postimg.org/itt47udq9/IMG_2942.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/7u7ww8nb1/full/)

http://s22.postimg.org/djo5gjthd/IMG_2943.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/t55h0i5fh/full/)

http://s22.postimg.org/ut011etxd/IMG_2946.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9w3swqvwd/full/)

http://s22.postimg.org/by4aaztvl/IMG_2947.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/k3mc95i4d/full/)

After cleaning (driver side fairly good):
http://s22.postimg.org/6nzbjp9mp/IMG_2950.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/j2m3k114t/full/)

http://s22.postimg.org/41oegi7sx/IMG_2951.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6vrjty9z1/full/)

Passenger side faded chrome and rust marked:
http://s7.postimg.org/afg2hl0uj/IMG_2953.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9d5vz1i13/full/)

http://s7.postimg.org/hxz7q7s7f/IMG_2954.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/56l1jpifb/full/)

http://s7.postimg.org/i9go2z8nf/IMG_2958.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/55b3qaglj/full/)

Passenger side plate chromed again:
http://s7.postimg.org/xfmptwyob/IMG_3099.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/y55i69z7r/full/)

http://s7.postimg.org/ir78538uj/IMG_3101.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/q76hqvwjr/full/)

http://s7.postimg.org/ji4jom0ln/IMG_3102.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3jvtyh6dj/full/)

http://s7.postimg.org/rdf33fa8b/IMG_3103.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/fob3fgj9j/full/)

... And finally Rex at "clinic" awaiting surgery:

http://s7.postimg.org/p7ks8x6rv/IMG_3145.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/7hj3nvt6v/full/)

talismandave
03-19-14, 10:24 PM
Outstanding! I can't wait to see the results.
I never knew that those bumpers were separate parts like that. Pretty cool.
Rex will be able to lie about his age after the face-lift!

77CDV
03-19-14, 11:01 PM
Good luck! Rex will look awesome after his refresh! :thumbsup:

outsider
03-20-14, 08:35 AM
Right now it looks awesome so any improvements will just be gravy! Can't wait to see it.

CADforce69
03-20-14, 03:33 PM
Thank you guys...

Matt, itīs true that looks great if you watch it from more than 10 ft. but if you get closer you can find a lot of things that should or could be improved.
Dave, 1969-70 front bumper consists of 5 sections bolted together so when itīs damaged partially you donīt have to look for a new one; just the bad part. Rear bumper consists of only 3.

Now I remember I didnīt tell the body guy the door sills paint is in an awful condition. In fact it falls in flakes so I had to apply last year a touch-up brush for some of the weddings I did. Probably next week I call him to see what can he do.

I wish we all lived closer so we could compare our caddies some day ;)

CADforce69
03-20-14, 07:17 PM
Next thing I will have to do after Rex leaves clinic is changing inner tie rod ends. During the last safety inspection in December I was told they were too loose, what surprised me as these are one of the first things I got changed (all tie rod ends + center link + idler arm). They have made less than 5500 miles, so I suspect the ones I bought were bad quality ones. These are the ones I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Steering-Tie-Rod-Ends-65-66-67-68-69-70-Cadillac-NEW-/141223251820?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&fits=Year%3A1969|Make%3ACadillac&hash=item20e18fcf6c&vxp=mtr I should have suspected it for the price ($100 a pair) They advertised "limited lifetime warranty", but in my case claiming this warranty is a problem, as I should remove them from the car, send them (shipping cost use to be at customer charge and from Spain to USA itīs probably more than $50) and wait until they decide if they will send me a new pair (No shop would be happy with this method given the huge size of the car and the tiny size of shops here). Consequently, Iīm looking for a new supplier as in addition I donīt trust this product anymore (Unfortunately Rockauto donīt sell this part). OPGI seems to sell the same model: http://www.opgi.com/cadillac/1969/chassis-suspension/steering-components/CE01376/

I found this on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Parts-Brand-Tie-Rod-End-Inner-1965-1970-Except-Eldorado-Cadillac-Caddy-/300864051178?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1969|Make%3ACadillac&hash=item460ce517ea&vxp=mtr more expensive but maybe better?

Rubber the Right Way have them available too: http://www.rubbertherightway.com/1969-cadillac-restoration-parts-tie-56706-prd1.htm but they were the guys that sold me the front upper bumpers, one of which chrome was toast.

Caddy Daddy have them also available: http://www.caddydaddy.com/1965-1966-1967-1968-1969-1970-Cadillac-Inner-Tie-Rod-Ends-1-Pair-REPRODUCTION-Free-Shipping-In-The-USA-p3589.html

Has anyone changed his 65-70 caddy inner tie rod ends and after years and miles is happy with the results? Who did you buy from? If the seller could send the part overseas would be great.

Thank you in advance :)

CADforce69
04-01-14, 02:01 PM
Hello guys, I have some updates,

Last Sunday the body guy sent me some pics of the work done during the last two weeks. Front bumper is off and upper bumpers were changed (Not the best pic quality due to the poor light):

http://s13.postimg.org/w8i599mon/P1010001.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/a9bqm25ub/full/)

http://s13.postimg.org/e4f4omp07/P1010002.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/xm9s4klxv/full/)

http://s13.postimg.org/hmvpyrf9z/P1010003.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/jeootnymr/full/)

http://s13.postimg.org/fsivh0s9j/P1010004.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/keezpddsj/full/)

Front fenders were removed and they started working on them:

http://s13.postimg.org/wmo2mlw5z/P1010005.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/u5cbfcc9f/full/)

http://s13.postimg.org/ptnpqc5cn/P1010006.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yook0uu4z/full/)

http://s30.postimg.org/rjz77sp2p/P1010007.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/e328oxer1/full/)

http://s30.postimg.org/rmj2umsq9/P1010008.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4xtvv2bcd/full/)

It seems the driver side is the most damaged one, but both have an ugly look after removing the paint flakes. Nevertheless, lower inner walls look solid:

http://s30.postimg.org/vcipnj4kx/P1010009.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dz8f8o99p/full/)

http://s30.postimg.org/novt585wx/P1010010.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6ocwwjsvh/full/)

http://s30.postimg.org/oej6vbvu9/P1010012.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4wojfdywd/full/)

The damage is very extended from one side to the other. The most rotten part is near the wheel arch but the arch nerve could be saved on the driver side, so repair has been easier. You can see the original shalimar gold paint under the later layers:

http://s28.postimg.org/laj4zm88d/P1010013.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/98nr5gyzt/full/)

All the rotten steel sheet has been cut off:

http://s28.postimg.org/bokz5krot/P1010014.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/48lpjs3zd/full/)

New steel part welded on its place and sanded:

http://s28.postimg.org/m3vqs8e99/P1010016.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5g48pqjhl/full/)

They have used 1 milimeter section steel sheet:

http://s28.postimg.org/qzzdjxeel/P1010017.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wo5oatiqx/full/)

They still have to work on the passenger side, driver door hinges, rear bumper, rust on the lower front of the driverīs door opening and swollen paint on the left quarter panel valley, but we can already see some progress.

outsider
04-01-14, 03:41 PM
Great pictures. Looks like they're doing a good job. cutting out the rot and welding in new patches is the way to go for sure.

talismandave
04-01-14, 04:56 PM
That should give you a lot of confidence in your body man!
Very complete work and well documented. Worth the money to hire the best.
I don't think you could have gotten a better fender by buying one. This will be all new.
Very impressed. You should be a happy, if slightly poorer, man!:lol:

CADforce69
04-01-14, 06:10 PM
^Yeah, I think I was right to choose him, as he has proved to be a serious and professional person so far... As to the money, if I had bought a new pair of fenders and got them shipped to Spain it would have cost more than $1,300 before removing the old ones, painting and fitting the new, so Iīm starting with that credit in my pocket :D

You are right. After all itīs very difficult buying a really good used part (specially a scarce one) when you can not see it with your own eyes so you may end up repairing the new one sooner or later. This way itīs more difficult getting wrong ;)

talismandave
04-01-14, 10:36 PM
Rex also was born with those fenders and has had them for 45 years, it seems right to keep them together!:D

CADforce69
04-10-14, 06:56 PM
Some updates:

My work brought me today close to the body shop so I went there to see how the work is going. I was pleasantly surprised to see that both fenders were being primed and prepared to be sanded to receive a new primer coat before paint. Right fender was repaired with a steel patch as was the left one, inner fender was cleaned and primed too. Before, space between outer and inner wall was sealed so as to avoid receiving more debris and moisture in the future. Previously a rust neutralizing agent was applied to prevent any remaining rust particle could reproduce. Sorry for the quick shots I took but at least you will have an idea of the work done:

http://s28.postimg.org/gpcvv98kd/DSC_0015.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/diicbmo49/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/aaduyl1ul/DSC_0016.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dh8ei7mah/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/vmgriiwf1/DSC_0017.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/chdi8rhqx/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/79sf4b15p/DSC_0018.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/tyhm3vijd/full/)

This is the rotten part they cut from the right fender: There was bondo everywhere, layers and layers. It seems the work had to be made again as rust had began to make its evil work before expected. At some parts the bondo layer was 1 centimeter thick:

http://s28.postimg.org/n85q86krh/DSC_0019.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4sl9as6mx/full/)

http://s28.postimg.org/x46t7tqjh/DSC_0020.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/h5y3howbd/full/)

They sanded the valley between left rear fender and body. Most of the problem was bubbles formed by too thick layers of paint applied falling from rear pillar and part behind trunk lid. Also some slight trace of rust. They painted both rear quarters above the moldings, trunk lid and part between lid and rear window from side to side. They found the paint code. It belonged to Mercedes: 375 Atollblau (Standard), that confirms our theory that they had applied some common modern code (that is really similar to the original '69 Athenean Blue):

http://s28.postimg.org/rz10cgo7x/DSC_0021.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3va8o65qx/full/)

In the above pic you can see the end of the spraying near the top of rear pillar but the matt shade will disappear when they polish the paint, that was applied yesterday.
They painted even the rear part of the rear door opening, fixing most of the paint decay you could see when you opened the doors. Driverīs door front opening corner was being sanded and the rust was disappearing. Fortunately it was superficial rust and there was no serious damage. They will paint it when fenders are done.

http://s28.postimg.org/slzx1zl3x/DSC_0022.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/opml60049/full/)

Luciano, the owner of the business had repaired the upper hinge of the door so now it closed almost perfectly. It didnīt hit down anymore but he was going to repair the lower hinge, as it was slightly loose too. As he told me, his intention was doing all in 3 weeks but they had some more work than expected with this car and with others so finally it will be finished probably after Easter... Anyway it seems to me they are faster than other professionals, specially dealing with this kind of cars. He even made new pics but he didnīt have time to send them to me... But this gives me the opportunity to bring you another update :thumbsup:

... And finally, Rex awaiting his new old fenders and front bumper:

http://s4.postimg.org/5h2h09agt/DSC_0023.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/om5qa0p4p/full/)

csbuckn
04-10-14, 07:58 PM
Looking real good. I hope I lay my paint at least half as nice as your people do.

talismandave
04-11-14, 12:20 AM
Wow! That is great. Very good craftsman you found there. Rex is looking beautiful and will outlive all of us!:thumbsup:

outsider
04-11-14, 08:34 AM
the repair work looks top notch. Can't even see the weld with the primer on it!

CADforce69
04-11-14, 12:10 PM
Thank you guys, the paint looked really good, though it can not be perfect, as the base was not perfect and I did not ask them to sand all the rear end to delete all the mistakes made before (they painted all on their own initiative just to avoid cut effect), but it was not finished when I took the pic. They still had to polish the painted area so maybe the results are even better.

The pics of the fenders are made in backlighting so you can not see clearly the smooth finish they had. It seemed incredible that there is a patch behind. By the moment Iīm really happy about the work they have done... And yeah, I hope Rex will keep alive for many, many years, even when I have passed by and someone is as lucky as to enjoy it :)

CADforce69
05-10-14, 03:28 PM
More updates:

Finally they painted all the door openings. The driverīs door hinges are repaired, so the door closes perfectly. The fenders are painted and installed. On these pics the spears were not yet mounted. Itīs a great job. Just a problem: When they removed the masking tape, some of the paint on the front door edges went with it (Another problem caused by the bad previous paint job). By the moment, it will be solved applying a little of paint with a brush.

Front bumper was succesfully installed with its new upper parts so the carīs front is cleaner now. They covered two holes on the upper part of the bumper -maybe they installed fog lamps in the past- with two rounded bolts; they used square bolts before:annoyed:

http://s4.postimg.org/6fas4hrr1/DSC_0037.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

http://s4.postimg.org/mu043bkcd/DSC_0038.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/m4hbqyjsp/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/lqfzrczp9/DSC_0039.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bt4yyas3d/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/4xkqf6xml/DSC_0043.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/p4y67hv3t/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/ianvht2gt/DSC_0045.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8dcuoquux/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/z8rhhe18d/DSC_0046.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6vvzqxfi1/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/yhyrblyv1/DSC_0041.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/yhyrblyux/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/6x1c6lry5/DSC_0036.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dnhtg1f3t/full/)

http://s4.postimg.org/3u0m38czh/DSC_0035.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4waslrvsp/full/)

And now, the new image of the rear bumper:

http://s4.postimg.org/z67lujxkt/DSC_0032.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/fblk8fid5/full/)
subir imagen (http://postimage.org/index.php?lang=spanish)

They had to work a lot to make room for the new indicator lights (1970 back up lights inserted on the bumper moldings), using a pneumatic saw so that the housing dimensions were adjusted to the light (Not bigger or smaller). Now they fit perfectly but they found a new problem: The holes the previous owner got made to install the truck taillights were higher than the moldings as you will be able to appreciate on the above pic... Now I have to leave; in the next post I will explain how they solved it and post the first pics of the car totally finished ;)

talismandave
05-10-14, 08:48 PM
Looks great CadForce!:worship:

Have some fun and go back and look at you first posts in this thread. I feel stupid admitting it, but I actually got misty eyed looking at how far you have brought Rex along.
It was fun re-reading the tread and all the twists and turns the old boy has thrown at you. What an outstanding example of a great classic Cadillac.

All of the new work looks great, but without a doubt the hugest improvement has to be the rear bumper. Those old lights were a wart on your otherwise handsome gentleman!:thumbsup:
I am anxiously part 2!:bouncy:

CADforce69
05-12-14, 11:42 AM
Thank you for your kind words, Dave :) Looking back to my first posts -as you pointed out- itīs incredible also for me all I have done in the last 3,5 years to bring this car from his initial deplorable in many senses condition to a great classic car cond. I knew the list of to-dos was very long but I just ordered them by priority: First, what it would need to pass inspection and making it reliable, second what it needed to be presentable -above all, as refers to interior-, third, comfort and body & paint repairs. In the middle, fixes that the car asked for and little cosmetic & trim touches... And yes, the rear bumper was one of the greatest aesthetic pains, that I could not solve by myself but in the end my plan could be carried out as I had thought although it needed more work than planned.

I have to thank my friend, the body guy, who did all the work with all his love and attention, and even gave me a set of products to polish and wax the car, and just charged me less than half of the work they did. The shop employees also did their work with the same dedication.

These are detail pics of the rear bumper back to see how indicator lights and moldings were attached:

http://s23.postimg.org/unmmgqtgb/DSC_0033.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/omoxjo6tz/full/)

http://s23.postimg.org/nlooujpuj/DSC_0034.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/krljh3no7/full/).

They had to cut a steel sheet of 3.5 mm. (0.14 inches) to adapt the '70 back-up lights.

On the first pic a rivet was used to close a hole made to attach the old lights. On the other side it was not necessary as it was hidden by the molding. The old holes were not symmetrical and on one side it was larger on the upper edge whilst on the other was larger on the lower edge. Once the bumper is installed this gap was not visible on the lower side but it was on the upper side, so we thought the best way to solve this was adding a sheet of stainless steel, held tight by the upper side of the molding and the upper rear bumper so If you donīt know, itīs difficult you notice, as you can check on the pics.

Some pics of Rex prepared to leave the shop:

http://s23.postimg.org/dfg3bk5gb/DSC_0047.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/pu2vbvwyf/full/)

http://s23.postimg.org/ipl22upp7/DSC_0048.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/u1xnkmydz/full/)

http://s23.postimg.org/x7i9auh0b/DSC_0050.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wuqv4nyqf/full/)

http://s23.postimg.org/scokckior/DSC_0051.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/j4wbvvbmf/full/)

These are some pics of the first ride of Rex after his surgery, first a classic car meeting and then a lunch at an American food restaurant:

http://s16.postimg.org/ah5o3jg0l/IMG_3243.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/43gl0ab4h/full/)

http://s16.postimg.org/yngbeo251/IMG_3258.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/icg7icpn5/full/)

http://s16.postimg.org/fh34bhln9/IMG_3260.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/k2z8ju769/full/)

Now that all fenders and back are just painted is even more evident the hood needs a good paint job. Before I bought the car, it was painted without sanding properly the cracked underlying paint, so you can notice it if you watch it carefully. If we wanted to do it the right way, it should be sanded totally, reaching the bare metal, like they did with fenders and priming, sanding, priming... and painting when everything is perfectly levelled, but maybe this and other details will be faced later on. The point now is the car look has made a good progress, perfection is like horizon: No matter how long you walk. Youīll never reach it :p

outsider
05-12-14, 12:48 PM
best looking car in all of spain

rodnok01
05-12-14, 12:57 PM
That is one fine looking automobile....

Cadillacboy
05-12-14, 03:04 PM
Your Cadillac dwarfs the Seat its like Jupiter's is to Venus :D
People in Spain will think Juan Carlos is on board ;)