: Crank Bolt Removal and free block/tranny



89falcon
05-31-11, 12:27 PM
All,
I replaced my 97 STS engine with a used one out of an SLS. I'm currrently trying to get my old engine disassembled, and am having big trouble getting the front crank bolt out....tips? Does heating it help? I'm pretty close to going at it with a sawsall.....

Additionally, I have what I think is a good albeit worn engine for cores.....I pulled the intake cams and put them on the new motor, and the exhaust cams both had two lifters that showed a mild level of "cupping". The bottom end will need to be rebuilt and studded (probably 6 bad holes when I took it apart...I think the HG was leaking for at least 50K miles....). I also have a tranny out of the 97 SLS donor. If you can figure out a way to come get any of it, it's yours! My wife tells me it can't stay in the garage for a couple years while I decide if I want to rebuild it as a spare...:crying2:

I'm in Colorado Springs, CO......drop me a pm.

ternstes
05-31-11, 02:08 PM
I used a large impact gun to get the crank bolt off my 97 STS. Alternately, an long breaker bar should do the trick. Add a steel pipe onto the breaker for additional leverage. It is much easier to tighten than to loosen. You have a way to hold the crank, yes?

89falcon
05-31-11, 02:55 PM
I used a large impact gun to get the crank bolt off my 97 STS. Alternately, an long breaker bar should do the trick. Add a steel pipe onto the breaker for additional leverage. It is much easier to tighten than to loosen. You have a way to hold the crank, yes?

Screwdriver thru the flexplate trick.......I have a 24" braker bar....and I've broken 2 sockets (one of them was an impact socket).....guess I'll have to put a pipe on it!

stoveguyy
06-03-11, 12:15 PM
anything else wrong with the block besides headbolt holes? thought the bearings/rings were pretty solid. your post does not really say what all the issues were. i can only assume it was a headgasket issue.

Ranger
06-03-11, 12:53 PM
I replaced my 97 STS engine with a used one out of an SLS.
Now you have a mismatched trans and PCM.

89falcon
06-03-11, 04:38 PM
Now you have a mismatched trans and PCM.

Nope.....I bought the engine and tranny out of an SLS for my STS.....I only replaced the engine....and when I did, I swapped intake cams.......so the used SLS engine I put in my STS is now an Vin9 engine (since the cams are the only diff....aoh yeah...and the oil filter bracket with the oil cooler ports....which I swapped over also) ;)

Ranger
06-03-11, 11:40 PM
:thumbsup:

89falcon
06-04-11, 01:54 AM
anything else wrong with the block besides headbolt holes? thought the bearings/rings were pretty solid. your post does not really say what all the issues were. i can only assume it was a headgasket issue.

It pinged a little right after startup on cold days.....I think it was mostly due to the leaky gaskets.....and when I pulled the head bolts, I was able to pull the threads with 5 or 6 of them (means less to drill out right? :))....everything else looked good EXCEPT one or two bad lifters on each exhaust cam....wish I knew about Subs oil recommendation years ago!

With over 200K on the motor, no way I'd stud the block WITHOUT re-doing the bottom end......seems like doing the bottom end is WAY less work than the heads, so it just makes sense....

johnny kannapo
06-04-11, 02:56 AM
A very stout 1/2" air impact with appropriate PSI source or a 3/4" air impact is the simple-quick way to unfasten the balancer.
The 3/4" will only need a short burst of hammering.